A Herd of Wild Asses couldn't keep me away from the Lions, Tigers and Wolves

[kittykat23uk]

So with deepest thanks to Hari, my travelling partner and to ghansyam who took the shot, here is the belated image of the wolf pack crossing the road behind us when we were busy with the Jungle cat!

 

Indian grey wolves Haris shot by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

A tighter crop!

 

Indian grey wolves Haris shot by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

24^th March – A herd of Wild Asses couldn't tear me away from the Desert Fox Cubs

When I first started planning this trip, I wasn't too bothered about giving much time to the Little Rann of Kutch, thinking that all there was to see were a few “donkeys” and some flamingos. But that was before I read Lynn's trip report in which she mentioned seeing both Desert Fox and Indian Fox and watching the pups playing at the dens. Well, this sounded a lot more exciting than the donkeys, so I was sold. We didn't allocate more than two nights, which in hindsight was a bit of a shame, as this turned out to be a real highlight of the Gujarat part of the trip.

We were in the vehicle before dawn and drove the 40 minutes or so the the Little Rann of Kutch. We quickly found our first group of Asiatic Wild Ass and Jo was absolutely right, these equines do have a certain beauty about them. The first few we saw were out on the dry Rann, just in front of a stand of bushes, and as they saw us approach they quickly disappeared into this cover.

P3241091 Asiatic Wild Ass by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

Luckily we encountered some other groups who at least stuck around for a little while. For some reason, my camera was having a lot of difficulty with the harsh lighting and I had to try and over expose my shots by several stops. Even then, many shots came out really under-exposed, but I was able to recover some of them in photoshop.

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[kittykat23uk]

We stopped to watch an Indian Fox (black tip to it's tail) sitting outside of its den. We were told this fox has two cubs, which were inside the den, sadly we didn't get to see these.

P3241112 Indian Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

P3241115 Indian Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

Then we carried on and a Desert Fox was out in the open. These can be told from the Indian Fox by its white-tipped tail. They are actually the same species as the red fox.

P3241180 Desert Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

We were then led on foot to a Desert Fox den where we were able to watch some delightful fox cubs as they milled around the den. I was encouraged to creep closer to the pups, but I was very conscious I didn't want to disturb them, so I kept my distance.

P3241188 Desert Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

P3241230 Desert Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

P3241234 Desert Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

P3241261 Desert Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

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P3241292 Desert Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

We also spotted some kind of weird mantis type thing:

P3241329 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

Here is the video from the morning excursion:

 

[Sharifa]

@@kittykat23uk - just read this trip report from the start and I am loving it. You had some fantastic tiger and other cat sightings and gorgeous bird photos too.

[madaboutcheetah]

Enjoying this report - really makes me think that I ought to make the time and effort to get to all these parks.

[kittykat23uk]

Thank you @@madaboutcheetah @@Sharifa @@ovenbird

 

We returned to the lodge for a late breakfast around 10.30 and I spent a bit of time looking for birds around the lodge and generally sitting and chatting with Hari, Peter and Toril as well as other guests at the lodge. The seating area by the restaurant is very comfortable with big bolster cushions and pillows, a nice shady place to have a little nap.

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[kittykat23uk]

Soon it was time for lunch and then later we headed out for another drive. I mentioned to Ghansyam that I would really like to spend some more time watching the foxes, as did Hari. So Ghany suggested that if Peter and Toril wanted to do some birding, he could leave us at the den and they could go off and see some other things.

First though we spent some time following a few small herds of Asiatic Wild Ass. The heat was creating mirages on the horizon, which provided an interesting backdrop to the shots of these magnificent equines.

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P3241477 Asiatic Wild Ass by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

P3241479 Asiatic Wild Ass by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

P3241493 Asiatic Wild Ass by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

The Asses didn't seem to be too comfortable with the vehicle and kept trying to put some distance between us. We actually asked the driver to leave one group alone, as it was becoming clear that they were beginning to feel penned in as the driver tried to circle around to get them head on.

We moved on to the area where the fox den was, seeing one of the adults on the way. It was only about 16.30 and still rather hot, but we all got out and went to sit near the den. One of the foxes popped his head out for a quick look at us and then disappeared down into the den. We waited there for an hour, with no shade and by about 16.50 Ghany and the driver went back to wait in the shade of vehicle, but not before mentioning that the foxes usually come out between 17.30 and 18.00!

There wasn't much else around aside from some distant calling Demoiselle Cranes and the odd Montagu's Harrier. It was clear Peter in particular was becoming rather bored, and suggested at around 17.15 that we should just give it another ten minutes. But having waited all this time and now with the knowledge that it as getting on for the time that the foxes would likely emerge, I was keen to give it longer. Thankfully at about 17.30 Ghany can back to join us and confirmed that this was the right time to be here and the foxes should be coming out soon. This gave us all the extra boost to stay longer. In the end, our patience was rewarded and three delightful fox cubs eventually made an appearance at about 6pm. We were able to watch them for a good 40 minutes or so before it began to get dark.

P3241499 Desert Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

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P3245381 Desert Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

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[kittykat23uk]

P3241534 Desert Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3241539 Desert Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3245414 Desert Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3245418 Desert Fox by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

[kittykat23uk]

25^th March – Where can you see (Asiatic) lions? Only in India! (Forget Norway!)

We had to leave Rann Riders at 6 am in order to get to Gir in time for a drive that afternoon, so we had a quick breakfast and took some snacks to eat on the way. We encountered a great procession of Jains who were on a pilgrimage. Camels drew carts carrying their luggage, whilst most people walked along the road. Some who couldn't or didn't want to walk were carried and there was even an elephant that had been decked out in all it's finery. I did not take any photographs because I felt that could be seen as disrespectful, but it was an impressive sight that stretched for miles.

We arrived at Gir National park and drove to the Gir Birding lodge, one of many lodges built within the park boundaries. The Gir Birding Lodge is located in a large mango orchard at the entrance to the Gir Wildlife Sanctuary, close to one of several gates that allow access to the routes within the sanctuary.

Lunch is served on the first floor of the main building with a nice view overlooking the orchard and to the right there is a view of an enormous banyan tree. It's a good place to see birds and I managed to spot Tickel's Blue Flycatcher, Common Iora, Asian Koel, Common Mynah, Common Tailorbird, Purple Sunbird, Grey-breasted Prinia and Tawny-bellied Babbler.

 

P3251550 Common Iora by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3251552 Common Iora by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3251557 Purple Sunbird by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3251561 Yellow-throated Sparrow by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3251575 Tickel's Blue Flycatcher by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

At 15.30 we gathered for our first game drive in Gir National Park. The first route we were allocated was route 6. On our last full day we came to the main office of the park and so I took the opportunity to take photos of the interpretation board for each route.

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Gir forest consists of Semi-arid dry, deciduous teak forest with very little understorey, quite a contrast to the lush bamboo thickets of Tadoba. We first came across two nightjars. Ghansyam initially thought they were a pair, but later realised that they were two different species, Jungle Nightjar and Indian Little Nightjar.

P3251587 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

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Then, through the trees we saw some forest trackers walking along and then we realised that there were two Asiatic Lions walking alongside them! Even having read about the practices in Gir, I was still surprised at how close these guys get to the lions. They were literally just a few feet away from the beasts. Our views, however were brief and obscured by trees as they sat some distance away from the road.

P3251609 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

We carried on and spotted many Chital, a few Sambar, small groups of Langaur and the occasional Nilgai. An Oriental Honey Buzzard drifted overhead and peacocks seemed quite plentiful, though shy.

P3251657 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

We also spotted a third nightjar species, Savannah Nightjar on the ground at the base of a tree. We had a second lion encounter, this one a lionness who was drinking at a water trough before we arrived and moved off into the forest. We then came upon a pair of nesting Plum-headed Parakeets, the male posed well as his mate popped her head out of the nest hole. A Shikra also gave us great views. Our last sighting was of yet another male lion. It wasn't really a sighting to write home about as he was sleeping away from the road and wasn't really in a good place to be photographed.

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We were out of the park, from the gate next to our lodge at 6 pm. So I went straight up to the top of the main lodge building to see what birds I could find. A White-browed Fantail was a new one for the list along with Asian Palm Swift and a distant Asian Koel.

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[kittykat23uk]

26^th March – Come to India! We've got Lions! (Lions and Tigers 2 for 1 special offer).

 

Our jeep arrived at 06.30 and we took route 1 in the morning. First we spotted two Oriental Honey Buzzards in a tree. More raptors were subsequently sighted, Booted Eagle and Crested Serpent Eagle. I then spotted a pride of lionesses, four of them on the right had side of the road walking through the trees towards the road. There were no trackers around so we could stay for a while as we watched them all cross in front of our vehicle and jump over a dry stone wall. As they walked a short distance away they started roaring.

 

An impressive-looking male appeared behind us from the tree-line and crossed the road heading over the wall to join his girls. Our forest guide and Ghansyam got out and walked over to the wall to try and get us some closer pictures of the lion. Unfortunately, as tourists we were not allowed to follow. We were told that a second male was also nearby but the trackers arrived so we were forced to move on before we could see him.

 

P3272519 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

 

P3261799 Asiatic Lion by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261808 Asiatic Lion by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261821 Asiatic Lion by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261823 Asiatic Lion by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261837 Asiatic Lion by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261862 Asiatic Lion by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261865 Asiatic Lion by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

Edited May 3, 2013 by kittykat23uk

[kittykat23uk]

As we carried on we stopped to photograph some lovely Chital and Sambar, Langaur and Peacocks, although common were not too easy to photograph. We were out of the park at around 9 am.

 

P3261867 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261869 Chital by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261871 Chital by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261902 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261919 Sambar Deer by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261926 Chital Deer by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261943 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261945 Chital by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

 

P3261950 Chital by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

Edited May 3, 2013 by kittykat23uk

[kittykat23uk]

After breakfast we drove to the dam where only a small amount of water remained. We managed to spot a good collection of birds including, Osprey, Booted and Greater Spotted Eagle, Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse, Small Pratincole, Greater Thick-knee, River Tern, Comb Duck and Ruddy Shelduck, as well as a few mugger crocodiles.

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At a little shrine we came across some Large Grey Babblers.

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[kittykat23uk]

We returned to the lodge for lunch and sat watching the birds from the restaurant. A pair of Mynahs were collecting some odd nesting material, including a shedded snakeskin!

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[kittykat23uk]

After lunch and a bit of a rest during the heat of the day, we waited for our jeep to arrive. It was a little bit late, which was frustrating but there is nothing to be done because the jeeps are allocated routes in some kind of obscure order. Ghansyam had asked for route 6 because three leopards had been seen along it that morning. We entered around 15.45 and we did not see any cats for the first hour and a half. Birds were more accommodating with Yellow-fronted Pied Woodpecker, Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, White-browed Fantail, Small Minivet, Common Woodshrike, Common Iora, Coppersmith Barbet and the Jungle and Indian Nightjars again.

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[kittykat23uk]

Eventually we saw one lioness, which was a brief and obscured view. Further on, a Black-tailed mongoose stopped in front of some bushes. Ghansyam said that was a sign of good luck.

P3262234 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

P3262236 by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

Then we came upon some of the park trackers who ushered us forward to see two lionesses, resting near the road. One had an injury to her eye and the trackers seemed very concerned. After having a closer look via our camera screens they decided to call for a vet. We later heard that she was taken away to be treated.

P3262253 Asiatic Lion by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

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P3262291 Asiatic Lion by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

As we carried on, we saw a Crested Hawk Eagle. Another group of three lions (two males one female) were seen towards the end of our drive and we didn't have much time with them. On our way out we spotted a Spotted Owlet and Wild Boar.

P3262329 Asiatic Lion by kittykat23uk, on Flickr

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[kittykat23uk]

[johnkok]

What a detailed report Jo. Wonderful pictures too. That Blackbuck is really something

[madaboutcheetah]

What a detailed report Jo. Wonderful pictures too. That Blackbuck is really something

 

Indeed - the Satyamangalam Tiger Reserve is meant to have a good population of blackbuck - hoping to go there. Not far from me -