In search of the Grey Ghost

[kittykat23uk]

Thanks all, here's a video of the bharal

 

[kittykat23uk]

24 Feb 2016

 

We were leaving today so after clearing out our tents and packing everything ready for the donkeys and having breakfast we scanned one final time from the watchpoint, sadly seeing nothing new, other than a couple of great rosefinches. We then began to make our way back down the valley to the pick up point. It took us most of the morning to reach the cars. the river valley held fresh wolf tracks:

 

P2240942 wolf tracks by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Another large eared pika was seen on the way down.

 

We drove on towards Saspoche. The guys stopped to scan periodically and soon found us a herd of Ladakh urial.

 

P2240964 Ladakh Urial by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We stopped for a lunch of noodles in a local town.

 

670C9367 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2240969 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We checked into our homestays when we arrived at Saspoche. The home stays provide much-needed income to the local villagers, who provide not only food and lodging, but also sell local handicraft needle-felt animals (mainly snow leopards and ibex). As they can make more money hosting tourists than from their regular pastoral lifestyle, this initiative helps to reduce conflict with the leopards as the villagers can see they have value to them - which helps to protect them. Of course, the camps and homestays can only host so many people and certainly in Hemis the numbers of visitors are controlled by a permit system.

 

The group was split between a number of different families dotted around the village. Our rooms were basic but compared to the camping quite luxurious as we at least had some form of heating. In my case this was an electric fire others had wood burners. A mattress and blankets were provided for sleeping on and flasks of sweet black tea were served with a small pot of biscuits and/or some rather dry home made bread. There were also some freaky looking decorations in my room, enough to give a small child nightmares:

 

20160225_072151 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Later on we took a fairly short hike up the valley above the village and found a small herd of ibex, too distant for photos but no predators.

 

In the evening we all convened for a communal dinner at the most central, and largest homestay.

[egilio]

Gray wolf or something different? http://news.nationalgeographic.com/2016/04/160428-himalayas-wolf-new-species-animals-nepal/

[janzin]

I have been away so just catching up with this report again. Wow so many wonderful sightings...wolf and lynx as the icing on the cake! And yes Pika... I love Pikas Quite an achievement and as Galana said, you will have the memories forever. Hopefully not the bruise What a fantastic trip! (But I am even more convinced now that I'll never do it. I think I have to stick to warm, tropical cats.)

[kittykat23uk]

Gray wolf or something different? http://news.nationalgeographic.com/2016/04/160428-himalayas-wolf-new-species-animals-nepal/

 

Very interesting! I wonder if that analysis is specific to the Nepal population or whether this would cover the Ladakh population too. More research needed I think!

[kittykat23uk]

25 February 2016

 

Tea was brought to our rooms in the morning, in my case this was my porter who was also staying in the homestay. There is a concrete area for washing and an outhouse long-drop composting toilet (basically just a hole in the floor that you have to shovel dirt down after doing your business). We were served breakfast which consistited of wilted spinach, omlettes and fresh chapatis in the kitchen of our home stays before all convening for a hike up the valley from the centre of the village. It was quite a long hike and we were able to see the ibex again (about half a dozen) and also a lovely pair of wallcreepers. These birds were flying in a dramatic butterfly display above the gorge and, just like butterflies, settled briefly on the rocks before launching themselves off again to chase each other. For a few of the group these birds were another lifer. I have seen them in other parts of the world but they are always a joy to see!

 

20160225_092632 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Fresh tracks betrayed the presence of a nocturnal prowling wolf but we did not manage to find the owner this time.

 

20160225_092759 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

My old geology teacher would no doubt get a giggle from some of the interesting rock formations along this particular valley, especially this one:

 

20160225_104113 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Snow leopard proved elusive. There is a female with cubs whose range covers this valley but she was elsewhere when we were looking.

 

20160225_110323 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

All the walking was starting to catch up with some of us.

 

20160225_113140 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160225_113202 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160225_113206 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160225_121349 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160225_121354 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We had dinner at the largest homestay upon our return. every other homestay owner brought something to the table, whether this was rice, dal, other vegetarian dishes etc.

 

Then the little animals came out and a few more of the group made some purchases.

 

P1010576 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160225_132152 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160225_132157 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Afterwards, I retired to my room, which was easier said than done because to get to our home stay in the dark you have to cross a little stream.

 

20160225_183105 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

 

20160225_132205 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

[SafariChick]

@@kittykat23uk great photos and video of the bharal - so amazing how they survive on those steep rocks and it looks like there's barely anything for them to eat!

[Galana]

A very refreshing look around Ladakh and the people. More people should visit there as there are alternatives to sleeping in a tent at 4,000 metres covered in snow. Terrific shots both external and internal really give a great flavour of the country and its culture..

[CaroleE]

@@kittykat23uk - amazing adventure. The stealth, agility and camouflage of snow leopards must rank near the top of the list of "the best" in the animal world in my opinion. Beautiful animals and you got to see them in the wild with some other amazing beasts.

 

This trip report has a lot of the things I value in a "safari" destination - sort of self supported in the middle of nowhere, camping, almost strenuous to the point of being exercise, epic scenery, the possibility of one great sighting and the company of like minded individuals (love the shot of the full team at the end looking like an expedition to one of the Poles); and then you had to spoil it with the one thing that will definitely put me off anywhere - extreme cold! Minus 13 C at that...I don't know how you did it but thank you and thank you again for this trip report.

 

kind regards

 

deano.

 

 

Great post! The 'almost strenuous to the point of being exercise' made me a laugh a lot! Exercise on holiday.....surely not I'm with you on the cold.....

[CaroleE]

@@kittykat23uk

 

Yet more majestic vistas, two more to make the big 3 and more strength of mind and body from you! Incredible trip.

Really liked the evocative tale of hearing the wolves around you whilst in your tent. Blue sheep and the pika - especially the flying one - were also fab.

All in all this has to be a lifer of a trip!

[kittykat23uk]

@@kittykat23uk great photos and video of the bharal - so amazing how they survive on those steep rocks and it looks like there's barely anything for them to eat!

 

Thanks! It's incredible how they scale such vertical cliffs.

[kittykat23uk]

A very refreshing look around Ladakh and the people. More people should visit there as there are alternatives to sleeping in a tent at 4,000 metres covered in snow. Terrific shots both external and internal really give a great flavour of the country and its culture..

 

Yes and there's equal chance of seeing snow leopards from these homestays as it is from the camps. It's really down to luck. But if I were to go again I would probably just do the homestays and maybe a shorter trip! Never say never!!

[kittykat23uk]

@@CaroleE yes it was definitely strenuous! It was certainly eerie to hear the wolves!

[kittykat23uk]

26 February 2016

 

We left Saspoche for Leh after a final unsuccessful scan for Snow leopard.

 

20160226_084756 Saspotche by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

On our way out of the valley we crossed a boulder-strewn plateau when Gurmit shouted to our driver to halt the vehicle. He'd spotted a pair of wolves tracking away from the road up towards some hills! One was a blackish variant and his companion was a very pale 'white' wolf. They trotted through an arid valley below Saspoche. We had lovely, although fleeting views of these two impressive animals. The dark one was refound at distance a bit lower down as it slept in the sun.

 

670C9411 adj 1 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

670C9411 adj 2 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We also stopped at the confluence of the Indus and Zanskar rivers, this is a truly amazing sight as the royal blue water of the Zanskar meets the muddy grey-green of the Indus amid the backdrop of spectacular mountain vistas:

 

20160226_104003 heading to Saspotche by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160226_104009 heading to saspotche by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160226_104016 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

The ubiquitous prayer flags were strewn along the crash barrier overlooking the valley:

 

20160226_104457 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160226_104621 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We passed a large number of military bases on our way back to Leh and arrived in time for lunch. We relaxed for a while before we headed out into town to visit the Snow Leopard Conservancy. According to the researcher Jigmet, we may well have seen the only two snow leopards in the whole of the Rumbak area. It might have been the case at the time we were there but I think people who arrived in the following weeks had better luck so I'm not sure if he was just trying to make us feel good.

 

We did a bit of shopping in the town afterwards and then returned to the hotel for dinner. We had a final night here before heading back to Delhi.

 

670C9430 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

[Galana]

Lovely photos once again. The pelage variation on those wolves is certainly pronounced. Just as well I cannot find a green Emocion to express how I feel about that sighting.

Keep those photos coming.

[ld1]

@@kittykat23uk absolute hats off to you. The trip looks intrepid and hard work. Scenery and pictures are stunning and the wildlife the icing on the cake!

[Zim Girl]

@@kittykat23uk

 

Impressive report, amazing scenery and so pleased you found your snow leopard.

[Atravelynn]

The gorgeous scenery, the wolf within the gorgeous scenery, the prayer flags flapping in the wind make for an impressive finale, as does the lineup of (souvenir) snow leopards!

 

I love the homestay aspect of the trip. There has to be something in it for the local people and homestays serve that purpose. Was there much chance to interact with the families? Did you need an interpreter for that, such as your porter? I would not have thought you might see a snow leopard right from the homestay sight. How remarkable, but how commonplace for the residents, which is in itself remarkable. And so is this report!

[kittykat23uk]

Yes the homestay is a brilliant initiative! The owners don't speak English so yes, you are reliant on your guide to communicate with them. But even so they are really welcoming. It's odd that they have seemingly large dwellings but only really use one room - that being the kitchen.

[kittykat23uk]

27th February 2016

 

We were up at 0545 for our 0630 check in to fly back to Delhi. One of the Group, Mike had a lot of problems getting his cameras through security and then had further problems locating his bag. The security here is tight, I guess because we're in Kashmir. They do the usual check of your ticket before entry to the airport, then your hand luggage is scanned, then you check in, then you have to get your hand luggage through security, which they insist on searching and pulling all your camera gear out to repack and have that stamped. You get the full body scan with the wand (women stand on a stool behind a curtain). Finally when you make it through all that, you then have to go outside, identify your checked bag to the guard, before it's then loaded onto the flight. Poor Mike couldn't find his checked bag for a while but all was sorted eventually. The airport was also crowded with soldiers all waiting to board different flight.

 

Another wonderful chance to appreciate the majestic himalayas followed:

 

20160227_083410 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160227_083505 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160227_083538 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160227_083557 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160227_083729 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160227_083801 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160227_085857 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

20160227_085929 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

 

On arrival in Delhi we were picked up by Ghani and we checked back into Hotel Lohmod before returning to Sultanpur Jeel for lunch and an afternoon of birding.

[TonyQ]

A wonderful trip and a wonderful report. Special sightings and lovely photos. I really enjoyed seeing Ladakh in the winter - it is a fascinating place and you show it so well.

[Galana]

More thanks from me. Great scenery. And a second trip to Sultanpur?

[kittykat23uk]

We had lunch and then enjoyed a few hours around the park wetlands. A good list of birds was seen:

 

Painted Stork
Glossy Ibis
Ferruginous Duck
Gadwall
Garganey
Pintail
Shoveler
Spot-billed Duck
Teal
Tufted Duck
Wigeon
Black Kite
Bonelli's Eagle
Shikra
White-rumped Vulture
Coot
Moorhen
Purple Swamphen
Red-wattled Lapwing
Snipe
Spotted Redshank
White-tailed Lapwing
Wood Sandpiper
Yellow-wattled Lapwing
Collared Dove
Ring-necked Parakeet
Greater Coucal
Spotted Owlet
White-breasted Kingfisher
Green Bee-eater
Brown-headed Barbet
Sand Martin
Black Drongo
House Crow
Large Grey Babbler
Red-vented Bulbul
Red-breasted Flycatcher
Black Redstart
Indian Black Robin
Magpie Robin
Pied Bushchat
Ashy Prinia
Plain Prinia
Chiffchaff
Hume's Warbler
Lesser Whitethroat
Common Myna
Purple Sunbird

 

P2270977 ring necked parakeet by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

P2270983 Oriental magpie robin by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2270987 Nilgai by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2270997 adj 2 large grey babbler by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271016 Squirrel by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271045 Great white egret by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271047 Nilgai by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271049 Nilgai by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271053 Nilgai by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271088 Nilgai, coot and Gargeny by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271094 adj Painted stork by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271109 adj Painted stork by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271138 Nilgai by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271150 Sultanpur by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271288 Nilgai by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271152 Spotted owlet by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271215 by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

P2271229 Spotted Owlets by Jo Dale, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

The time we went is meant to be prime time. Obviously this does vary from year to year and there's some evidence to suggest that periods with heavier snow fall increases the chances of sightings. Recent years there has been less snow and sightings have been fewer, especially in the period before Christmas these past couple of years. It seemed that groups who went out after us had better luck than we did, but this may not hold true from year to year either.

[Galana]

Excellent photographs once more. How would you rate Sultanpur as a destination from New Delhi as I have yet to get there?