Namibia 2017: Two Cats on a hot Tin Roof

[xelas]

Day 5 : Pretty In Pink

 

 

We have woken up into some damp cold misty morning. Of course, as it was Swakopmund. A quick breakfast, then trying not to get too wet while collapsing the tents. Out of the camp late yet the weather looks not too inviting.

 

 

 

Walvis Bay was our destination of the day, and yes, the lagoon. While pink is not on top of the beloved colours by anyone of us, and specially not by Tanja, when it adorned flamingoes, such animosity is well cured.

The sun dispersed the fog even before we have parked the car, and voila, hundreds of Lesser Flamingoes were feeding very close to the walking path.

 

 

 

From there on, it was clicking only! I have had no idea how many photos the three of us have done, at least not until we came back home. Way too many, at first glance, but then, for those that have really succeeded it was worth the time and the space. I do hope you will survive the overdose of both the colour pink and the flamingoes .

 

 

Constantly pruning themselves

 

Sometimes disputes broke out

 

Not all are pink

 

Dancing Queens

 

 

His Majesty and The Reflection

 

(to be continued)

Edited June 19, 2017 by xelas

[xelas]

In 2014, there were only a handful of flamingoes in the lagoon, although we were there almost at exact same time. This time, Mother Nature more then make up in numbers.

 

 

Flamingoes were walking in groups, very close to the shore, enjoying the sun and the feeding and, obviously, also enjoying themselves!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes, I know, too many photos. But they are so pretty in pink, and for me, I like even more the deep orange colour of their eyes. I think we have done enough photos for next 10 years .

 

(to be continued)

 

[xelas]

Walvis Bay has several interesting activities, one being kayaking with seals, and the other jeep drives in dunes. None of those for us. We have went into the saltworks in search of colourful sights. This is what we have found.

 

Huge piles od salt

 

Strongly coloured pools

 

 

Lost cars ...

 

... and houses

 

And pelicans

 

 

(to be continued)

 

[xelas]

One can find bright colours also in town

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(to be continued)

[xelas]

A few words about our camp in Swakopmund. Alte Brucke is well maintained camp, with chalets and private campsites. Inside the brick house is a shower and the toilet, and luggage can be kept under the lock when exploring surroundings. Our campsite even came supplied with personal cat pet .

 

Huge braai and brick house

 

Grassy lawn for the car

 

Personal pet

 

Alte Brücke Camp

 

Our two days at Swakopmund were much less active than what most visitors to this coastal town are experiencing. No kayaking no dune rides either in jeeps or in quads; not even a dinner at The Tug or The Jetty. Yet the day with flamingoes makes everything equal, and just doing the driving around on our own, was just great. Weather ... the morning mist and damp fog was quickly dispersed by strong sunshine. No scenic sunsets though.

[JohnR]

Wow! I always thought flamingos boring but Zvezda has changed that!

[xelas]

1 hour ago, JohnR said:

Wow! I always thought flamingos boring but Zvezda has changed that!

 

It was a bit of a tough work, plowing through hundreds of photos. These birds are funny to watch, for sure.

[xelas]

Day 6: Navy Seals of Cape Cross

 

 

Another humid night and tents were again wet of dew moisture. Now I am a bit less impressed by how all those animals and plants can survive among the dunes. It is not that dry as one would expect if being there only during the heat of the day.

 

Fog retracing over the ocean

 

 

The coastal road first skirts along Henties Bay; the "monoculture" of colour beige is contrapuncted with brightly painted wooden and brick houses.

 

 

 

 

After Hentiesbaai the dreaded salt road started. The surface of the road looks like tar but it is in fact mostly salt. On a dry day like ours, driving on it is a pleasure. On a humid, or on a rainy day, it is more slippery then the ice skate ring in the Central Park. A new road is under construction, and I really hope it will be paved with proper asphalt.

 

 

 

Soon after the town lies the latest victim of the infamous, and one of many that gave that part of the Atlantic coast its ominous name: Skeleton Coast.

 

 

 

The ship is easily viewed from the road, and as such is also an obligatory stopping point for any tourist passing by. That fact has attracted a plethora of mineral sellers. At our time Zvezda has counted more then 20 persons milling around with cartoon boxes filled with various minerals, or just waiting in the little shade a plastic canvas can offer. Those are proper "beach vendors" that has no idea of what "No, not interested" means. It can become quite intimidating at moments. While Zvezda and Tanja went closer to the wreck, I have had to deal with several of them. After I have heard all the stories about what treasures they are almost giving away, what harsh life drought brought to Uis (it looks all came from Uis), and that only my self can save the world, or at least their family, there was no way out of buying a couple of stones. Sometimes being a white man has its positive effects in Africa. I have lined the sellers (3 of them) in one line, told them I will buy 1 stone from each, for 100 NAD each, and that I will chose the stone. At that time I have seen that they do understand English, as some pieces have miraculously disappeared from each man's selling portfolio. Never mind, I have anyway no idea about minerals. So I picked 3 stones, gave my 300 NAD to one person and dismissed the others. That gave me time to get in the car (Tanja and Zvezda returned in the meantime) while 2 sellers were chasing the third one for their share of the money.

 

When there, the situation was not that relaxed to me as I want to portray here. But in essence, there was no danger at all. Folks just wanted to sell some of the rocks, and tourist should buy them. There is no real fear of being mugged or anything. And for a couple of dollars we got some nice minerals (which ones I don't know to this day ).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 20, 2017 by xelas

[xelas]

Next stop was very close so we have had time to pay a visit to Navy Seals . Not the famous special forces regiment but the largest seal colony in Africa located at Cape Cross. The colony is part of the NWR so entry fee is same as for Etosha: 80 NAD per person + 10 NAD per vehicle. Steep in comparison with Etosha or Sossusvlei. One thing everyone says is about the smell, or better, the stench. We must have been very lucky as the wild odour of seals was present but not at all in the brute force many have described. Yet I can imagine that in certain periods it can be much worse.

 

Occupied by seals

 

 

The sheer number of seals in all life stages was every bit as intimidating as the mineral vendors.

 

 

 

For me, it was a difficult task to concentrate where to pint the camera. Luckily there was Zvezda, and these are pictures from life of a seal(s) at Cape Cross.

 

Sometimes awake ...

 

... but mostly asleep

 

Sometimes in a company ...

 

... and sometimes alone

 

Edited June 20, 2017 by xelas

[xelas]

The seal story goes on:

 

Fighting ...

 

... and kissing ...

 

... and yawning ...

 

... and sleeping ...

 

... and scratching.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 20, 2017 by xelas

[xelas]

Puppies are not that adorable but then again, how a puppy cannot be adorable ?!

 

Best friends for life

 

I want to have my mommy!!!

 

Here I am, my sweetie!

 

 

One day they will grow up and become a Navy Seal (with moustache)

 

 

Yes, all those stories are hidden in plain sight among the hundreds of Cape Cross Seals. If only one can find them !

 

 

 

(to be continued)

Edited June 20, 2017 by xelas

[Peter Connan]

Alex, I think your stand at Alte Brucke was the one just vacated by us... Last road, turn right, about the second or third lawn?

 

I just remembered why I drove through the parking lot at the shipwreck, and down onto the beach: it was an attempt to evade the stone merchants. And largely it worked, the problem is that I had to deflate the tires to get back up to the road...

As usual, Zvezda's picturs and your commentary make for an excellent trip report.

[michael-ibk]

Love the Flamingos and Seals! Indeed a tough job to single out those moments among the thousands, but of course Zvezda excelled - as always.

[xelas]

3 hours ago, Peter Connan said:

Alex, I think your stand at Alte Brucke was the one just vacated by us... Last road, turn right, about the second or third lawn?

 

I just remembered why I drove through the parking lot at the shipwreck, and down onto the beach: it was an attempt to evade the stone merchants. And largely it worked, the problem is that I had to deflate the tires to get back up to the road...

As usual, Zvezda's picturs and your commentary make for an excellent trip report.

 

Yes, I imagine many would wanted to escape the vendors; but they are as any beach vendors elsewhere; you show even a tiny glimps of interest, it is difficult to get rid of them! 

 

This was our position at Alte Brucke Resort:

 

 

 

[xelas]

1 hour ago, michael-ibk said:

Love the Flamingos and Seals! Indeed a tough job to single out those moments among the thousands, but of course Zvezda excelled - as always.

 

Thanks for words of appreciation, Michael! If you would add also my name, I would buy you a beer next time we meet !

[michael-ibk]

I don´t drink beer.

[xelas]

59 minutes ago, michael-ibk said:

I don´t drink beer.

 

Duly noted 

[monalisa]

Um wow. Those dunes look incredible. The red colours are incredible. The photos of people looking like tiny ants climbing the dunes look incredible!!

 

I'm afraid the green eyed monster has reared it's ugly head. I so badly wanted to see flamingos in Africa. There were thousands of them, but as a faint pink line on the horizon 

I can't believe how close those flamingos are. AMAAAZZINNGGG!! 

 

[xelas]

9 minutes ago, monalisa said:

Um wow. Those dunes look incredible. The red colours are incredible. The photos of people looking like tiny ants climbing the dunes look incredible!!

 

I'm afraid the green eyed monster has reared it's ugly head. I so badly wanted to see flamingos in Africa. There were thousands of them, but as a faint pink line on the horizon 

I can't believe how close those flamingos are. AMAAAZZINNGGG!! 

 

 

You mean you are turning into a smaller but greener version of Hulk ?! Welcome to the band  !! I did such a transformation about twice every month, sometimes even more times (depending on influx of great trip reports from places I have not been).

 

Thanks for kind words. And yes, this time flamingos were really close to the shore.

[Peter Connan]

@xelas, we would have been neighbors, had we stayed 2 days longer!

[xelas]

It was midday when we have finished with seals colony, and it was time for coffee break. Cape Cross Lodge is very nice lodge, but its location does not attract that many guests. The campsite, OTOH was full although definitively uninviting by the first glance. The coffee itself was good, and views over the ocean (from inside) relaxing.

 

Testament to the past

 

 

Already on our way to Cape Cross we have seen many roadside stalls with nice white rocks on it. On the way out we have inspected them. Each has a selection of what I thought were minerals, with prices written on desk or on pieces of paper. Payment depends on how fair the client is. I do understand that no one would like to seat under the scorching sun watching for the rocks. Zvezda and Tanja wanted to get the most pinkish coloured one. So we did two trips up and down the road before they have decided for one stall. When I've picked one "rock" it seemed a bit light for a rock. So I lick it . Salty it was! I should know better; those were all salt mines around us!! No purchase this time, the wet and humid air in Slovenia would dissolved the salt crystals quite quickly.

 

Salt Crystals Mall

 

[PCNW]

Zvezda once again excelled with those seal images.  That upside-down portrait is a favorite.  

[janzin]

WOW!! Pretty in Pink!! Those flamingo shots are fantastic. I can't believe how close they were! Anytime I've seen flamingos they were far off in the distance. Now I'm really itching to go to Walvis Bay  

 

And the seals...fabulous!

[xelas]

10 hours ago, PCNW said:

Zvezda once again excelled with those seal images.  That upside-down portrait is a favorite.  

 

Finding all those moments in the mass of thousands of seals really needs an eye .

[xelas]

8 hours ago, janzin said:

WOW!! Pretty in Pink!! Those flamingo shots are fantastic. I can't believe how close they were! Anytime I've seen flamingos they were far off in the distance. Now I'm really itching to go to Walvis Bay  

 

And the seals...fabulous!

 

And if we would be more patient, using the tripod, maybe coming closer to the water level .... luckily a return trip to Namibia is already decided for, together with itinerary !