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Winter in the valley; Leopards everywhere; Terrific Tafika ; a photographic report from Lion Camp and Tafika in SLNP - June 2018


madaboutcheetah

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Hari

 

Just read your entire report. Magnificent pictures of a very special park- SLNP really is special and leopard heaven especially in the Nsefu sector.  You took some superb action shots. Tafika appears to be the best camp in the area with its location right on the Luangwa river. 

 

Thanks for for sharing this report of your Zambian adventures. 

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madaboutcheetah

Thanks a lot @janzin and @AKR1

 

@janzin - I think you should try Tafika or Shenton or one of the Robin pope camps in Nsefu.  Can’t go wrong with those options. 

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safarigirl.se

@madaboutcheetah Wow, such a great trip report! Thanks for sharing ?? I’m a big sucker for cats and read that SLNP was a great place and your photos definitely confirmed that! So nice sequence with the leopards and the hyena, must have be thrilling! Love the photos of the hippos as well, did you take them on your walk? 

And of course Wild dogs, they are on the top of my list since we missed them in Botswana last year. 

 

I’m going to SLNP next year in June and we are staying to days at Lion Camp. Did you do any night drives when you stayed there? 

Nice to hear that the guide was good, I’m going to wish for him ? 

 

How was the weather in June? We are going late June but I can imagine a bit chilly?

 

One again thanks for sharing and this TR made me longing more and more to next year! ?

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8 hours ago, madaboutcheetah said:

Thanks a lot @janzin and @AKR1

 

@janzin - I think you should try Tafika or Shenton or one of the Robin pope camps in Nsefu.  Can’t go wrong with those options. 

 

Well, it was one of the Robin Pope camps that we weren't so crazy about. But I think if we go back we'd do Shenton. Anyway, it will be awhile...a few other trips first!

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madaboutcheetah

@safarigirl.se ..... one of the segments I posted were from the walks in page 1. June was cool early morning - but nothing like Botswana cold. You need a light fleece for game drives. That’s all .... lion camp has a weird schedule. Short game drives because they are particular about their dining schedule ( and the food wasn’t that spectacular) ... menus revolve around heavy outdated menus - quiche etc etc.,  I am not a fan of night drives - in Zambia they do them quite extensively. Wild dogs you’ve got a great chance in the valley as they seem to be doing really well at the moment.

 

@janzin I hope you return to Luangwa. I loved the park. 

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safarigirl.se

@madaboutcheetah thank you! Good to know, I packed way to light for Botswana.. and I should now cold coming from Sweden ?

 

I hate when camps are to striked with schedule, hope they loosen up to next year ✊?

 

 

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On 7/23/2018 at 6:17 AM, madaboutcheetah said:

@safarigirl.se ..... one of the segments I posted were from the walks in page 1. June was cool early morning - but nothing like Botswana cold. You need a light fleece for game drives. That’s all .... lion camp has a weird schedule. Short game drives because they are particular about their dining schedule ( and the food wasn’t that spectacular) ... menus revolve around heavy outdated menus - quiche etc etc.,  I am not a fan of night drives - in Zambia they do them quite extensively. Wild dogs you’ve got a great chance in the valley as they seem to be doing really well at the moment.

 

@janzin I hope you return to Luangwa. I loved the park. 

 

Good to know that about Lion Camp, but disappointing. It was the schedule at the camps that really put me off SLNP, with leaving so late after dawn, so I guess I would cross Lion Camp off my list. Surprised that even with a private vehicle they were strict about times, that would make me very frustrated! Sounds like Shenton is the only way to go for me if I return.

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madaboutcheetah

@janzin / they did leave early for drive - but back way too early from morning drive for food!!!

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2 hours ago, madaboutcheetah said:

@janzin / they did leave early for drive - but back way too early from morning drive for food!!!

 

just as bad :angry: If you recall in my report I threw a fit  :D when Nsefu camp made us leave wild dogs to have a "bush breakfast!" :angry::angry:

 

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madaboutcheetah

@janzin - I personally consider Tafika as one of the best in all of Africa .... another camp to consider!

 

i hope to try the Shenton camps when I go back to the valley. Def will only do it during carmine season. 

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Excellent report @madaboutcheetah, only just finished reading it as we returned from our Zambia trip just a few days ago.

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vikramghanekar

Excellent report! Fab leopard shots.

I am leaving for SLNP next week. Hope to see some good leopard and wild dog action!

Although I am not going to Tafika or Shenton Safari's camps (which were my initial choices), I am trying out something totally different.

Lets see how that works out!

Cheers

Vikram

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Some very cool photos Hari and some great sightings too.

 

If you try with Shenton make sure to ask for Patrick as  guide, he's fabulous in every way.

 

Paco

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madaboutcheetah

Thanks a lot @Julian @vikramghanekar and @africawild

 

Paco - Yes, will give Shenton a try one of these years ...... Will request for Patrick.  Thank You!!!

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On 7/5/2018 at 2:58 PM, madaboutcheetah said:

Very little socialising with other guests. I had a private vehicle so came back at 10am for breakfast. Others usually came back at 9 30 am.

Hari:

Great photographs and seems you had fun, except for that cold you came down with. Some questions, if you don't mind:

  1. Why was there very little socialising? Normally after game drives, it is fun to swap notes and relive experiences. Why was it absent in this camp, as you mention?
  2. What was the schedule of the game drives? 
  3. In the walkabouts, how much distance is covered? And what precautions for safety?
  4. Transit via Nairobi or the ME hubs?
  5. And lastly, excuse my ignorance...but what are 'hollywood' lions?

Enjoyed your trip report and good of you to post pictures of the camp facilities. 

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madaboutcheetah

Hi there @Earthian - Thank You!!!  

 

To answer your questions......

 

1.) Your question re socialising pertains to Lion camp - it was a very awkward camp structure where they have individual tables for each party at all meals (that in itself limits interaction).  It is a very methodically structured camp (I stress on the word Structure) ....... That said, the food was very average given all the fuss about the dining arrangements and schedule.  10am breakfast, 2 Pm lunch etc etc.,  I mean if one returns at 9:30 Am for a 10 am breakfast, what's the point of omelettes or scrambled eggs in different formats?  Their game drive schedule - I did have a private vehicle.  Usually stepped out at 6am and got back just before 10am breakfast.  Normally, I think they head out at 3:30 for afternoon drive.  I went out at 3Pm and got home just after dark (I dislike night drives and don't fancy staying out after dark).  

 

Tafika on the other hand was one of the best camp atmosphere I've been in - complete opposite of what's mentioned above.  Communal dining and a festive atmosphere.  Regular lengthy drives/ walks and activity........ 

 

3.) Walking from Tafika - I did two morning walks.  Usually starting approx 6:30 am and returning at 11am or so ...........  Not sure about distance covered.  We did break for coffee and cake mid morning.......   We had a camp guide plus a ZAWA scout/ranger who was armed with a rifle.  

 

4.) I went on the Emirates to Lusaka.  Then the quick transfer onto the Proflight from Lusaka to Mfuwe.  If I return, i'd overnight in Lusaka.  The proflight gets in literally at sunset and then it's quite a drive to the camps ........... Not only is it a long day, but, you lose out on the afternoon activity on the day of arrival.  i didn't have too much time for this safari and hence didn't have the luxury of an extra overnight in Lusaka.  FYI - there is another Proflight service in the morning from Lusaka to Mfuwe.

 

5.) Hollywood Lions - I  think that's the name of the pride after the documentary from SLNP from a year or two ago "Lion Country day and night" - that featured in a large part that particular pride.  Others might be able to comment more on that - that's what i think the reference is, in any case.

 

Hope it helps?

 

 

 

 

Edited by madaboutcheetah
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Thank you, Hari, for your prompt reply. Yes, it definitely helped and cleared things up.:)

Seems like Tafika is our kind of place. My wife and i enjoy meeting people and swapping stories. We are vegetarians though, and some  have a very narrow view of what vegetarians eat- becomes quite tiring at times to stuff yourself with greens thrice a day. Did you enjoy the sky at night? Some of these places are the best when it comes to viewing the night sky.

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madaboutcheetah
Just now, Earthian said:

Thank you, Hari, for your prompt reply. Yes, it definitely helped and cleared things up.:)

Seems like Tafika is our kind of place. My wife and i enjoy meeting people and swapping stories. We are vegetarians though, and some  have a very narrow view of what vegetarians eat- becomes quite tiring at times to stuff yourself with greens thrice a day. Did you enjoy the sky at night? Some of these places are the best when it comes to viewing the night sky.

 

Actually, Tafika had some amazing food - including many Veg options.  They have their own organic garden too for all their fresh veggies ......... Night Sky - yes, is amazing as always!  I should learn to photograph star trails ....... 

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@Earthian I'm not a vegetarian but I can assure you that you won't be disappointed by the food at Tafika. I have stayed there twice  as well as at Chikoko Trails, Crocodile River Camp and Mwaleshi. I remember the food very well especially the cakes and breads which were simply superb. I was astounded to see that they were all baked using a hole dug in the ground and nothing more.

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Strange, how Lion Camp has changed after the rebuilt.
As we´ve been there in 2015 it was the only Zambian camps with no individual seating arrangement at dinner or lunch, we´ve stayed in so far (besides the Bushcamps of Bushcamp company). There was one long table on which all guests were sitting. We made good friends there and are still in contact with an american couple.
Also last year the 2 camps we stayed in at Lower Zambezi (Anabezi) and South Luangwa (Puku Ridge) there was single seating, no long table. I think this is more or less custom in Zambia.
We also enjoyed the food at Lion Camp and we did not experience such over-regulated time tables as you did.
I think, there was a bush brunch one morning, so it was obvious that we had to be at that place at a given time.
We also had to leave a Leopard in hunting mode one night, as we had get to go back to Camp for dinner. This was the one occasion, where I would have loved to stay longer at the sighting, esp. as we were very close to camp. But then again, as we arrived in camp the Hollywood pride was crossing the plains right in front of the dining area.

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madaboutcheetah

Thanks @ZaminOz

 

@Wild Dogger - unfortunately they didn't get the winning formula in their attempt to make it a luxury lodge. It felt more like a hotel .... food was quite mediocre. 

Edited by madaboutcheetah
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It is unfortunate when safari camps try to "up market" themselves and in the end just alienate their guests. Laid-back and informal used to be the hall marks of Zambian safari camps. Sadly this seems to becoming harder to find :(

Edited by ZaminOz
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On 8/8/2018 at 2:33 PM, vikramghanekar said:

Excellent report! Fab leopard shots.

I am leaving for SLNP next week. Hope to see some good leopard and wild dog action!

Although I am not going to Tafika or Shenton Safari's camps (which were my initial choices), I am trying out something totally different.

Lets see how that works out!

Cheers

Vikram

 

@vikramghanekar Looking forward to the report and how you ended up organizing things!

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