Costa Rica 2018: Birdin' in the Rain

[PeterHG]

@michael-ibk and @xelas you are  both treating us with a great read and wonderful photography! It's a shame that the rain hampered the birding opportunities, but you still managed to see a lot, so I'm looking forward to the next installments!

[Big_Dog]

God a lot of those poor animals really do look miserable in the rain. But with that said, at least you were getting great amounts of them. I especially like the reptile pics, seems we don't see them as often traveling when you think about it.

[xyz99]

I am really enjoying the diversity of wildlife...to bad about the rain. Is the road to AOL still as bad as it used to be? I guess in the rain every non-paved Costa Rica road is bad

[Alexander33]

On 10/16/2018 at 12:38 PM, Patty said:

Could the second photo be a two toed sloth? 

 

I was wondering the same thing. They always seem to hang upside down. Great find!

Edited October 18, 2018 by Alexander33

[xelas]

7 hours ago, xyz99 said:

I am really enjoying the diversity of wildlife...to bad about the rain. Is the road to AOL still as bad as it used to be? I guess in the rain every non-paved Costa Rica road is bad

 

The road was (and it probably still is) quite bad, worse than what I have expected. But driveable. We have experienced worse further on our travel.

[xelas]

SARAPIQUI

 

Our second stop was at Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui. This location is one of those that are missed by the majority of tourists to the country who have 7-10 days for theirs "once in a lifetime" and "see it all" trip. I know, not going to happen'. Anyway, those are distracted by Arenal on one side and Tortuguero on the other side, so Sarapiqui is still flying under the mass tourism radar. However, to my opinion, this area is second only to Osa when it comes to wildlife sightings. When it is not flooded or drenched in heavy rains, as it was the case of this July.

 

Zvezda, as a navigator in charge, was following closely the local news for possible distractions on our route. Those were none, but as the area of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqui was under the heavy rains many low lying areas were flooded. Subsequently, wildlife, including birds, have moved to safer zones. Not that we have not encounter them, just not in the quality and quantity I have had the pleasure to experience on our previous two occasions here.

 

Sarapiqui is still very much farmland, tiny towns, very much what Costa Rica used to be. On top of this, there are several excellent options for nature lovers, all within a relatively close circle: La Selva, Tirimbina, Selva Verde, Heliconia Island, Rio Sarapiqui, even Rio Pacuare, the whitewater rafting mecca is not that far away.

 

Back in 2008 we have met, and befriended a local guy, Alex Martinez. He and his family runs a small lodge named Posada Andrea Cristina - https://posadaandrea.wixsite.com/andreacristina - and in recent years he has also started to work on a wildlife rescue centre named Tierra Hermosa; our daughter Tanja spent a week there helping with construction works and similar. As of now, this is not yet in its operational stage; I hope one day Alex dream project will finally be realised.

 

The lodge itself is quite small, with several brick cabins and 2 tree houses. Basic but with a garden full of birds (in drier days) and always with guests that have same interest in travels and life. Breakfast is prepared by owner, and he is famous for his freshly baked bread. Each morning, first to be fed are always his best friends, birds.

 

 

Inside of our tree house (for 3 persons)

 

 

 

Part of the lush garden

 

Black-cheeked Woodpecker

 

Red-legged Honeycreeper in moulting stage

 

The only animals that really enjoyed the wet conditions

 

 

[xelas]

Main target of our visit in Sarapiqui are was La Selva Biological Station, one of three stations in Costa Rica, run by Organization for Tropical Studies - https://archive.tropicalstudies.org . This is one of those locations that can be found on almost every birding tour. There are guided tours inside the property, and as of lately, one can stay overnight in much more comfortable cabins; before overnight was possible only in researcher's quarters.

 

Not so great weather delayed us so we have arrived at around 09:30; missed the morning group guided slot, we were given a private one ... for the same price! Very kind from the reception. Both being late on the trails, and mentioned weather has took a toll on our sightings; what I remember as trails filled with birds were much quieter this time. Nonetheless we have enjoyed the walk, and it was only at the very end of the tour that another heavy rainfall forced us to retreat under the roof. Here are some photos taken in La Selva.

 

Crossing the Rio Puerto Viejo using a suspension bridge

 

Rio Puerto Viejo in full force (it merges with Rio Sarapiqui near Puerto Viejo the town)

 

One very important sign

 

Olive-backed Euphonia

 

Gartered Trogon

 

Keel-billed Toucan

 

Slaty-tailed Trogon

 

Crested Guan

 

Feeding time

 

 

[xelas]

After La Selva we went to see the Heliconia Island; this is a private property with a garden full of different heliconia plants, and some birdlife was also spotted there. I will leave to Michael to show you this area (yeah, not much good photos from our side).

 

In the afternoon we have returned to Posada Andrea Cristina, and as Alex was home, I have asked him to show us where the Great Green Macaws are. He knows all the best places, and after some hiking we have found them!

 

What are they all looking for?

 

This! Great Green Macaws

 

[kittykat23uk]

Lovely birds! 

[Zim Girl]

Great additions to this report @michael-ibk and more beautiful pictures of that wonderful Red-eyed frog.

[janzin]

Despite the rain, excellent photos as always from Zvezda, Michael and you!  Unfortunately it seems ST is stripping out the Exif again (maybe I am the only one who likes to look at this, lol.) But I assume Zvezda's were with the 200-500VR?

 

Nice to be reminded of Sarapaqui... we've been there twice, once stayed at Selva Verde Lodge and once at La Quinta de Sarapiqui Country Inn, and we did a private guided tour at La Selva too. I think you may have seen more in the rain then we did on a sunny day! But the area in general is fantastic. We've always gone (3x) in February...no rain then

[xelas]

Ours should be with EXIF data. Anyway, yes D7200 + 200-500 was the combo used for birds and most other wildlife.

[SafariChick]

Beautiful shots from all, and enjoying the writing as well. Despite the rain, you have all managed to get some wonderful photos. Look forward to more!

[michael-ibk]

 

Sarapiqui had its definite highs but also the lowest low of the trip - when we arrived it was raining so heavily that we had to stay put in the breakfast area, the downpour was so immense that we did not even try to unpack and get our stuff to the rooms. It was cold, it was wet, it was dark, and the bloody rain was incredibly loud - I just wanted it to stop, we all did.

 

 

But everything was better the next day, less rain, even a bit of sun now and then, and I did enjoy Sarapiqui and our Posada San Andrea. Quite basic, yes, but it does have a unique and quirky charm, in no small part due to the very likable owner.

 

 

Our treehouse - at one point we thought the boats on the left here would soon be put to use in the garden.

 

 

The breakfast area.

 

 

Red-Legged Honeycreeper in full breeding plumage.

 

 

I liked sitting on our veranda, observing the green thickish in the back of the garden, and often enough I´d find some nice stuff.

 

 

Red-Throated Ant-Tanager

 

 

Green Iguana

 

 

Blue-Chested Hummingbird

 

 

Black-Cowled Oriole with a tasty snack

Edited October 21, 2018 by michael-ibk

[michael-ibk]

 

It was not only the rain which was to blame for our late start this morning - actually it was the fact that I have superhuman powers and am so strong that metal melts below my mighty fingers: When I turned the key to my room the lock was refusing to cooperate so I applied a bit more force - only to have the back end of the key in my hand and the other part broken away, firmly stuck inside. It took one staff member a while to solve that problem. There you see, in an all-out barbrawl you´d definitely want superstrong me, Keybreaker, on your side.

 

Some more sightings from the reserve:

 

 

Rufous-Winged Woodpecker

 

 

 

Blue-Jeans Frog? Actually the Strawberry Poison Dart Frog. The male guards and tends eggs until they hatch. Females transport tadpoles to water-filled leaf bromeliad and returns for weeks to bring food to her offspring.

 

 

 

Leaf-Cutter-Ants, always hard at work.

 

 

My personal La Selva highlights:

 

 

Sun! Not for long, but how nice it was to see Sarapiqui in proper light for a change.

 

 

And this guy, the Pale-Billed Woodpecker, such an incredibly cool bird, one of my favourites from the trip.

 

Edited October 21, 2018 by michael-ibk

[michael-ibk]

Heliconia Gardens in the afternoon was nothing all too special, a regular lodge with a well-kept garden. The river trail was too muddy to walk and (of course) it started to rain again. But they did offer us a nice cup of coffee, and their feeders attracted some interesting species.

 

 

Peek-A-Boo!

 

 

Olive-Backed Euphonia

 

 

Dusky-Faced Tanager

 

 

Green Honeycreeper

 

 

And after the rain stopped we did a nice short circle of the premises.

 

 

 

 

Yellow-Throated Toucan

 

 

Rufous-Tailed Jacamar

 

It was very nice of Alex (the lodge owner) to help us find the Great Green Macaws later in the afternoon. Their range is restricted to 1120 km² of very wet forests along the border with Nicaragua where there are populations in the Bosawas and San Juan reserves, which represents only 10% of its historical range. The species is still endangered all over its range even though the numbers in the country seem encouraging. In 1994, the population of CR was estimated at 210 individuals with only 35 to 40 breeding pairs. Following conservation efforts, the population recovered to 1530 individuals. The global population has recently been estimated to 3500 by the American Bird Conservancy.

 

 

Finding them involved a lot of running, huffing and puffing up and down some hills and pastures. But(mostly) in the sun, so a very enjoyable outing. We also saw some Capuchins farther away.

 

 

 

This Trogon made short work of a Mantis.

 

 

A Grey Hawk, spotted by sharp-eyed Zvezda.

 

 

Olive-Throated Parakeet

[Alexander33]

I’m really stoked that you all were able to see the Great Green Macaw. That’s a definite goal of mine one day. I, too, am a big fan of the Pale-billed Woodpecker. But, as always, the trogons are my favorites, and it looks like you had a good sampling of them, at this point. 

[Dave Williams]

Just catching up with your report guys. Great stuff but not one to show Claire if I mean to persuade her it's our next destination. Rain is one thing but snakes. Nooooooooooooo way!

On our one trip there we did see Pit Viper, no I saw Pit Viper when I think about it, Claire would run a mile!

In August 2008 we had great weather and missed the only torrential 2 day downpour at our hotel on the coast whilst visiting Arenal OL. The volcano was very active and we had paid for a Smithsonian room with full length windows so from the bed  I could watch the red hot lava tumble down the mountain all night. Magic!

[Peter Connan]

On 10/21/2018 at 3:00 PM, michael-ibk said:

There you see, in an all-out barbrawl you´d definitely want superstrong me, Keybreaker, on your side.

 

I try very hard to avoid bar brawls. But since my wife does this at least a couple of times a year, I'd better be very careful about trouble at home too!

 

Lovely photos from all three of you!

Edited October 22, 2018 by Peter Connan

[xelas]

CARIBBEAN

 

 

The total coastline length of the Caribbean side of Costa rica is only 212 km, about 1/6th of the Pacific side. However, this is the home of some of the best what Costa Rica can offer in nature. Most important (for tourists) places are Tortuguero (not part of our itinerary) and the relatively small area between Cahuita and Manzanillo, with Puerto Viejo in between.

 

There are 2 National parks: Cahuita NP and Gandoca-Manzanillo NP. First one is quite small and easily walkable even on your own. The second one is of a different sort, trails are narrow and not well signed, so going in without a guide is not a wise idea. Jaguar Rescue Centre has its own share of fans, and not far is BriBri village, where one can hire a tour to the real BriBri settlement deep into the rain forest. For those that are staying for a longer period of time, crossing into Panama over the OMG bridge at Sixaola, and visiting Bocas del Toro archipelago is a viable option.

 

Our base camp was at Congo Bongo - https://www.congo-bongo.com - a property with several houses encircled with nature. Ours was named Long Dream House, and photos just don't do the justice to this fantastic accommodation. It was a place we will always wanted to return, with a smile. Huge, well equipped, comfortable, ... exactly what we needed in those weather conditions.

 

Entry sign

 

Colours abundant

 

Our house

 

The view of the central area and one room

 

Open kitchen plan

 

Colours everywhere

 

Inside the room

 

Outside the room ... notice the wooden "coffee table"

 

The rain forest just outside our doors

 

[xelas]

The garden around the house was as interesting as the house; a fruiting tree attracted big birds and monkeys. The large covered patio both gave us shelter from rain and a place to watch out, to relax and also to have opportunities of some good photography.

 

Hammock time

 

Feeding time

 

 

 

 

Swinging time

 

 

Posing time

 

[DanielBme]

I'm stunned to see watermelon grows on trees ...precut to the perfect size to boot!  I'll have to look for more Costa Rican watermelons in my grocery store...I bet their quite expensive....

[kittykat23uk]

Stunning toucan! What gorgeous colours!

[xelas]

The tiny Manzanillo is easily described as cul-de-sac village; it is situated at the end of the road, only rain forest from there to Panama. The whole area is boldly showing its Caribbean roots, in colours, vibe and smells. Folk living here has much darker tan then usual can be found by an average Tico; personally I really like this part of the country despite some of its rough edges. A few snapshots from local life:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[xelas]

This is where the sand is at its finest and ocean at its calmest ... but that is not always the case. Although far enough from the hurricane belt, those are still influencing the weather heavily, and strong winds and huge waves are not unheard of. Recently a fishing boat become a victim of one such storm, and now also Costa Rica has the similar attraction as Namibia.

 

 

 

 

While July - October is usually best weather for beachcombers, this time only walking was an option.

 

 

 

There are many dogs in Costa Rica. Most of them wander the streets and roads on their own, yet they all have an owner of a sort. What they really like is to play "adopt-a-tourist" game. This one followed us everywhere for all 3 days we were in the area.