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Did you try for ayeaye at all?

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Madagascar has long been on my “someday” list. You’re making it harder for me to keep putting it off. Really enjoying this report, and look forward to the rest. 

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17 hours ago, kittykat23uk said:

Did you try for ayeaye at all?

 

To be honest, I didn't expect to see it in the areas we were visiting so we didn't ask about it and none of the guides mentioned it at all.

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Tuesday 25th September

 

7.30am start this morning.

We had our bags packed to leave in the vehicle ready for the drive to Iharana Bush Camp in Ankarana Ouest (West) directly after today’s walk.

We picked up Simon at the park entrance and drove the short distance to the start of the trail.  There are several marked trails in the reserve and they can be combined to make a walk lasting several hours which includes the Grand Tsingy, something we especially wanted to see.

 

It was already very hot, but there was a nice breeze and once you are in the forested areas it is more bearable.  However, we both love the heat so were quite happy being out in the open.  First, we were going to follow a circuit that takes you down to where the three rivers of Ankarana meet. At this time of year, you can see down into the cave opening where they flow through. In rainy season this is full of water. On the way we saw a Blue Vanga.

Vangas are one of the most well known of the endemic bird families of Madagascar.  The various species are very diverse with different sizes, colours and beak shape. This was the first time I had got close enough to a Blue Vanga to get a picture.

 

Madagascar Blue Vanga

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The three rivers meet and flow through at this point. In rainy season this entire area would be full of water.

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Adrian in the picture for scale.

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From here you walk along a dry riverbed that has limestone pavement alongside.

Then we walked into the forest and we saw these two very cute Sanford's Brown lemurs looking down at us.

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Then we saw our last new lemur species of the trip.

 

This is an Ankarana Sportive (or weasel) Lemur  (Lepilemur ankaranensis)   Endemic to the Ankarana and Amber Mountain areas this is a nocturnal lemur, although it is commonly seen during the day peering out of their tree holes or sitting in a fork in the branches. The species status is Endangered.

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Next up another lovely example of a Panther Chameleon.

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This solitary male Crowned lemur was curled up high in the trees.

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We heard lots of birds in this forest. Vasa parrots, Cuckoo-shrikes, Magpie-robins, Coucals, various Vangas and plenty of Paradise Flycatchers.

This is the black and white variant of the male Malagasy Paradise Fylcatcher.

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Then we found another Ankarana Sportive Lemur.

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Now it was our first chance to see the famous Tsingy. 

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Tsingy is the shortened version of a Malagasy word that roughly translates as 'walking on tiptoes'.  It is a large landscape of eroded limestone that has produced hundreds of sharp pinnacles known as Tsingy.

We stood on a specially built viewpoint set into the rocks.  We would get the chance to walk across it a bit later.

 

Simon explaining about the Tsingy, volcanic rock can be seen in the foreground.

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Back on the trail yet another Ankarana Sportive Lemur sitting in a dead tree trunk.

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Then we saw another Ring-tailed Vontsira cross our path but this time it was too quick for pictures.

 

Now we had two Ankarana Sportive lemurs sharing the same tree. The 2nd one is hanging underneath, wedged in between the bark.

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By now it was mid morning and we had reached the trail that leads to the way across the Grand Tsingy Benavony.

Stones have been placed to create a path across the Tsingy to a suspension bridge that hangs over a deep ravine.  It takes about 25 minutes to reach the bridge.  Lionel and Simon both stressed a bit about making sure we had enough sun cream on and telling us it was going to be very hot but really it was fine, I was more worried about where I was putting my feet!

 

Sharp limestone, you definitely don't want to fall on that!

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Simon leading the way, the structure in the distance is a shelter from the sun on the other side of the ravine.

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Simon whizzing across the suspension bridge, there is another smaller one to cross just beyond it.

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Now crossing very high, swingy bridges is not really in my comfort zone, but this is the reason I wanted to come to Ankarana. To see the Tsingy and cross this bridge.

This is Adrian telling me  'it's easy, nothing to worry about'.

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So I watch him get to the other side and then i get on. The bridge is bouncy and it is windy, but I don't look down and hang on for dear life to the side ropes.  Slowly I shuffle along. I am glad I didn't know there were people watching me at the time.

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Meanwhile, Simon is happily posing for pictures.

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I am still shuffling, but eventually I get there.  

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We make our way up to the shelter and relax there for a while watching other people make the crossing.

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Eventually we have to make the return crossing and I am determined to be a lot quicker this time.

I didn't realise but Adrian filmed me this time.  Watch to the end to hear me giving myself a celebratory jingle:)

 

After that bit of excitement it was time to walk back to the pick up point to meet Adel.

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The drive to Iharana Bush Camp took one hour.  

On the way, eagle-eyed Adel spotted another Oustalet's Chameleon on the roadside.  We stopped to get a picture before it could make a getaway.

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As the name suggests, Iharana Bush Camp is more of a traditional styled camp with individual, thatch roofed cottages, some set in front of the lake and Tsingy outcrop which dominates the view from camp.  There is no electricity but there is hot and cold running water. The bedroom and bathroom areas are quite open to the outside which allows a nice breeze to keep the heat down inside. 

The various communal and dining areas are large and open out to the lake.

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We had lunch as soon as we arrived which was lovely, (more shrimps):)

 

Our room overlooked the lake where we could see local people fishing. Also, there were goats and zebu roaming around and lots of egrets around the lake edge.

 

Our room, taken from the lake side.

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The lake and limestone hills.  Zebu grazing in the foreground.

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We had been booked for a sunset boat ride on the lake but it was particularly windy that afternoon and evening so we didn’t bother and relaxed around the lodge instead.

Watching the sun starting to go down.

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Wednesday 26th September

 

The western side of Ankarana is dominated by extensive cave systems.  We could have spent the day visiting any of these but we preferred to go back to the east side and follow the forest trails again.  It is only an hour’s drive to the east but at least 90 minutes to get to the caves, plus we would rather be walking around in the sun than underground in a cave

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We had a very pleasant breakfast then met Lionel and Adel at 7am.  Simon was waiting for us at the Park entrance and before we drove to the trail head, we had a look around for the group of Crowned Lemurs we had seen on the first afternoon.  This time they were nowhere to be seen but instead Simon found a scorpion under a rock for us. This is the only creature in Madagascar that can do you any harm, particularly the large tailed ones found in the western forests like this one.  The sting from this would be extremely painful.

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We started the trail but missed out the three rivers circuit and headed straight into the forest.

 

A day gecko adding a bit of colour.

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Another male Malagasy Paradise Flycatcher, this time the rufous version.

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Simon checked out a tree where he knew a pair of Madagascar Scops owls roosted, and we were in luck.

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This is why you need guides with good eyes.  Can you see this chameleon?

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Panther chameleon. Making a quick getaway now that he has been spotted.

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Then we found another Ankarana Sportive Lemur watching the world go by from his tree hole.

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Further along the trail we saw a male Crowned Lemur foraging at the base of a tree. He was not bothered in the slightest by us taking photos just a couple of metres away.

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Then we spotted one of the endemic Couas in the trees directly above us.  This is the Crested Coua, one of the three arboreal species.

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Apart from the Giant Day gecko, which we spent some time hunting for but to no avail, we had found all the main northern species of lemurs, chameleons and geckos we could hope for. 

So, more than happy, we enjoyed a slow walk out of the reserve while chatting to Simon, who was a real character. 

We got back to Iharana around 1pm and had another very tasty lunch.

We were booked for a private sunset walk to the top of the hills in front of the lodge where they have a viewpoint set up for sundowner drinks. Lionel asked us to meet him at 4.30pm so we had a couple of hours to relax first.  The wind had dropped significantly since yesterday and we enjoyed a peaceful read and drinks on the deck in front of the lake.

 

At 4.30pm we found Lionel. He had a lodge guide with him because once the sun had set and we had climbed down from the hill, he would take us on a nocturnal walk around the rock face area at the bottom.

Walking around the lake to the start of the climb up the rock.

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The climb to the viewpoint took about half an hour and was steep but easy enough.

We were left on our own at the top to enjoy the views and the drinks and snacks that had been brought for us.

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An added bonus was the sighting of a small group of Crowned lemurs clambering over the bushes below us. Nice to see them outside of the main reserve.

Male

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Female

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Sunset

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By 5.45pm the sun had disappeared and we made our way down the rocks.

It was completely dark by the time we reached the bottom and we followed the guide searching the rocks and bushes.  We found various sizes of Panther chameleon and a few frogs but the highlight was when we walked closer to the lake.

Panther Chameleon

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Brown Mantella frog

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As it was dry season the earth was very dry and cracked and once you had got your eye in, you could see lots of snakes coming out to hunt for frogs.  You really had to watch where you were putting your feet as they were everywhere. 

Well I was like a kid in a sweet shop, going from one snake to the next.

Although anyone with a bit of a snake phobia would probably want to give this a miss :)  

Only thing was, I didn’t take any pictures, so these are a few that Adrian took with his phone.

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Spot the frog centre left in the picture below, the snake is lying in wait.

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Eventually they dragged me away and we walked back to the lodge.  One last surprise was a Madagascar Nightjar sitting on the ground. It didn’t move as we went past it, so a nice end to the walk.

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A couple of day geckos lived in our bathroom.

Towel monitor

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Edited by Zim Girl
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2 hours ago, Zim Girl said:

This is why you need guides with good eyes.  Can you see this chameleon?

 

Talk about "hiding in plain sight", it sticks out like a sore thumb once you've spotted it!

Edited by AfricIan
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Having remembered that you told me the chameleons are normally head down during the day, it was reasonably easy to spot the eyes.

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Thursday 27th September

 

We were up early and had a very relaxed breakfast in the sunshine watching bee eaters flying around in the nearby trees.

Olive Bee eater

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We had an 8am pick up for today’s travel back to Antananarivo.  Instead of driving all the way back to Diego Suarez for the internal flight, we were going to fly from the island of Nosy Be off the North West coast instead, as it is closer to get to from Ankarana.

 

Lots of taxis waiting to get on to the bridge that goes over the Mahavavy river. Some parts of the bridge are only single lane hence the queues.

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Mahavavy river

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We arrived at Port Ankify at 10.45am ready for the short boat trip over to Nosy Be. We said goodbye to Adel here but Lionel was coming with us all the way back to the capital as it was the end of his current guiding tour in the North.

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Our bags being loaded into the boat that will take us to Nosy Be.

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The boat trip took half an hour and we were picked up and taken to a restaurant for lunch.  We had some free time to ourselves before being taken to the Nosy Be airport at 3pm.

 

The harbour promenade at Nosy Be.

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We watched the various fishing boats coming to shore with their catch.  This one had a patchwork sail.

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This chap had four very big fish he was taking up the beach.

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The next two pics show people that had waded out to the boats to buy their fish.

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It was very hot now so we found a nice little cafe and had some cake and cold drinks before meeting Lionel for the drive to the airport.

Again, the flight left bang on time.  We left at 5.40pm and we arrived back at Tana at 7.15pm.

We had a day room booked at the Relais des Plateaux hotel, so we had enough time to shower and repack before being picked up for our international flight back to Manchester.

 

So, we really enjoyed our time in Madagascar. 

Apart from not seeing the Black and White Ruffed lemur in the wild (we saw it on Lemur Island), and not finding a Giant Day gecko in Ankarana, we saw everything we could have expected to and I was especially pleased with the number of different species of herps.  For birding, October is probably a better month than September but we still saw plenty, particularly in Andasibe and Ankarana.

The number of nights in each location was spot on for us but obviously there are many other national parks and reserves in Madagascar each with different species of lemurs and chameleons so unless time/budget is not an issue the Island needs more than just one visit.

 

The End.

 

Edited by Zim Girl
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Great idea to put Adrian in the photo of the cave for scale - without him I wouldn't have realised how huge it is.

 

And well done @Zim Girl for tackling that rope swing bridge the way you did.

 

This has been an excellent report - fascinating in so many aspects. Thank you.

 

Loved those Crowned Lemurs -  but then there's the cute Ankarana Sportive Lemur and so many more.  How many lemur species are there?

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Thank you @Caracal

Apparently there are just over 100 species of lemur, so still plenty more to see :)

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Many thanks for taking us "up North" @Zim Girl, there really is so much to see on the Island Continent - I know we only saw a small part of it so it was great to see a bit more through your lens & words.

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A really captivating report, Angie, many thanks for sharing all these adventures with you. I loved seeing all the Lemurs in your report but it also made me appreciate the "herb stuff" much more. The landscape I liked most was probably the Tsingy stuff, a stunning place. Cool bridge to cross, you did it like a champ. That snake place is definitely not for everyone!

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@Zim Girl thanks for a detailed report of your Madagascar adventure, and especially for the information and photos of the less visited northern area. You certainly saw a good range of lemurs and I had no idea that there were so many chameleon species. The site with so many snakes was interesting, easy to see why it was such a treat for you.

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Thanks for the great report and it really whetted my appetite for our upcoming trip! If we only see 1/2 of what you saw I think it would be a success!

 

Since we will be about a month later--mid-October--it should be a bit more into the birding season. I'm excited!

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@Zim Girl, what a great report.   Thanks so much for sharing.  Madagascar has been high on my list for a while but I have never spent the time to really research any sort of itinerary. That has changed thanks to your report and all the great things your saw.  I mean the Lemurs were fantastic enough but the herps you saw were the icing on the cake for me.  So, let the planning begin!

 

Alan

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21 hours ago, Zim Girl said:

So, we really enjoyed our time in Madagascar.

 

And I have really enjoyed your trip report, with all the photos and descriptions. A fabulous place, Madagascar, one that must be visited, sooner or later.

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The wife and l have thoroughly enjoyed reading your report, especially seeing the Leaf-tailed Geckos that the wife spotted!!, thank you.

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Thanks @AfricIan, @michael-ibk, @Treepol, @janzin, @Atdahl, @xelas and @CDL111  for all reading along and all your kind comments.

 

18 hours ago, michael-ibk said:

A really captivating report, Angie, many thanks for sharing all these adventures with you. I loved seeing all the Lemurs in your report but it also made me appreciate the "herb stuff" much more. The landscape I liked most was probably the Tsingy stuff, a stunning place. Cool bridge to cross, you did it like a champ. That snake place is definitely not for everyone!

Lemurs and herps  -  completely different kinds of creatures and amazing that you can see so many of each type in one place.  The Tsingy was pretty cool to see especially when you come out of the forest and see this vast grey, spiky landscape open out in front of you.

16 hours ago, Treepol said:

@Zim Girl . The site with so many snakes was interesting, easy to see why it was such a treat for you.

This trip was definitely snake heaven for me.

 

15 hours ago, janzin said:

Thanks for the great report and it really whetted my appetite for our upcoming trip! If we only see 1/2 of what you saw I think it would be a success!

 

Since we will be about a month later--mid-October--it should be a bit more into the birding season. I'm excited!

I am sure you will have a great time and see plenty and I think October is probably prime time to go.

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On 11/6/2018 at 6:22 AM, Zim Girl said:

 

Now crossing very high, swingy bridges is not really in my comfort zone

 

 

You and me both.  I’m not sure where my fear of heights comes from, but it’s definitely there, and those suspension bridges make my heart race.  And then I get really angry with myself, but it does no good.  The key is to look straight ahead and, above all, don’t stop! I think you did a magnanimous job there at the end, better than I would have. 

 

Speaking of phobias, you’ve confirmed what we had heard previously, that Madagascar has lots of snakes. My OH is terrified of them. I’ve somehow got to achieve a workaround there. 

 

Thanks for for a wonderful report of an evocative place I hope to see someday. 

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8 hours ago, Alexander33 said:

You and me both.  I’m not sure where my fear of heights comes from, but it’s definitely there, and those suspension bridges make my heart race. 

 

I know, and I haven't been on one since I scared myself to death on one in Borneo years ago, so I was determined to do better this time.

 

8 hours ago, Alexander33 said:

Speaking of phobias, you’ve confirmed what we had heard previously, that Madagascar has lots of snakes. My OH is terrified of them. I’ve somehow got to achieve a workaround there. 

 

But none of them are poisonous:)

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3 hours ago, Zim Girl said:

But none of them are poisonous

 

Not strictly true, but those that are are "back fanged" so can give you a painful bite but unlikely to do much harm unless they are able to "give you a good chewing" eg on a finger allowing venom to be injected. In the ocean there are two highly venomous sea snakes.

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6 hours ago, AfricIan said:

 

Not strictly true, but those that are are "back fanged" so can give you a painful bite but unlikely to do much harm unless they are able to "give you a good chewing" eg on a finger allowing venom to be injected. In the ocean there are two highly venomous sea snakes.

 

oh! That's good to know. Here I was thinking that I don't have to worry about snakes, as I'd also understood there were no venomous ones. Well maybe I'll stay out of the ocean, at least!

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8 hours ago, janzin said:

Well maybe I'll stay out of the ocean, at least!

The sea snakes are " non-aggressive" so will get out of your way - I think the only "incidents" have been where the snakes have been caught in fishing nets & bitten the fisherman. Don't let that put you off a swim, "the water's wonderful"

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As for poking a snake with your finger until it bites you - you probably deserve everything you get!!

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