Postcards from Kenya

[twaffle]

REFLECTIONS

 

The cloud cover is heavy over the expanse of Meru NP although a slight pastel hue bleeds through for the briefest time. Ken, Amos and the caretaker bend over the battery again, muscling the spares into position and testing each with a vain attempt at ignition. The rapid tic,tic,tic betrays the lack of energy contained within. Pushing isn't an option on this flat land.

 

I muse about the quality of different safaris and what makes an adventure something to reminisce about in future years as opposed to something which ruins the trip of a lifetime.

 

Africa throws the curve ball better than most and we have been fielding them since our first day.

 

Now, as I sit cradling a hot cup of tea in one hand, pen in the other, I don't reflect on the early morning game drive which we are missing, rather I consider the way our guide and cook have risen to every challenge thrown their way. Good humour, inventiveness and determination means that each situation has been recovered with little discomfort to us. However, I wonder how this current situation will resolve itself.

 

Then I hear the sound of an engine. Late yesterday another 4x4 arrived at camp and Ken has asked them for assistance. They were sleeping and grateful for the wake up call so we shall see.

 

Two hours later and the car is running, a tyre is changed and we sit in quiet contemplation. Lions were heard early this morning and our neighbours saw them yesterday afternoon. Perhaps our luck will change and we will see these illusive Meru cats.

 

Who knows, we are after all, on African time.

[Game Warden]

Really great photos. Twaffle, if I ever get the money together, you can plan my Kenya itinerary...

[Safaridude]

Ahhh, Meru...

 

Great to see a photo of a beisa oryx. They are not doing well there. Did you see any Grevy's zebras Twaffle?

[twaffle]

Really great photos. Twaffle, if I ever get the money together, you can plan my Kenya itinerary...

 

It would be a great pleasure. Anything to get you back into Africa and away from some of that music you listen to!

[twaffle]

Ahhh, Meru...

 

Great to see a photo of a beisa oryx. They are not doing well there. Did you see any Grevy's zebras Twaffle?

 

Sad to hear about the oryx, and I only saw a handful. No Grevy's at all, although Atravelynn saw some on her trip but I think she looked in different areas.

 

I wonder about the scientific research about viable populations and how to account for predation and other adverse factors when considering re-locations. It would appear that some species are re-located at less than optimum numbers for survival and certainly the Grevy's will soon die out in Meru now that they are unable to reproduce. I know that best intentions were at play, but given their rather dopey nature and the way they creche their young, it would be understandable to believe that a rather large breeding herd would be needed to give them some chance in Meru.

 

I saw many at Lewa of course, but that is their safe haven and to be expected.

[Atravelynn]

Thanks for the return to Meru. It felt as if I knew that vervet peeking through the tree. Seems Kinnas traded their cooking utensils for some towels. An unfavorable transaction.

 

Great Lesser Kudu shot.

 

Please continue with this professional quality travelogue.

[ZaminOz]

Twaffle

 

Beautiful images (as expected) and a well written journal of your travels... Thanks for sharing

Edited February 1, 2011 by ZaminOz

[twaffle]

Thanks Zam, I'll have to get back to it but choosing photos and loading them takes so long. Just lazy I guess.

[twaffle]

MOVING ON

 

A certain sadness sweeps over me as I look out of the windows towards the Nyumbeni Hills. A meandering stream runs gently through the ravine below our banda, edged with green grass and stately fever trees. On the far slope of the valley zebras graze whilst a giraffe enjoys the shade of an acacia.

 

Meru National Park lies beyond the Nyumbeni Hills where the clouds are building and I am reminded of its raw beauty as I sit in luxury at my new lodge, Wilderness Trails, Lewa Wildlife Conservancy.

 

I am surrounded by pleasant things, wonderful scenery, fantastic game, peace and tranquility but find I have a hankering for the peculiar state of adventure and discovery which we shared at Meru.

 

A sharpening breeze rattles the glass, but it is calm inside and I begin to prepare to head out again.

[samburumags]

Twaffle, you have me in tears, your writing is superb and your photographs are even better. Mine was a very basic report, yours is pure literature. Congratulations.

[twaffle]

Thanks Mags, you're too kind.

[twaffle]

LIFE'S AN ADVENTURE - PT 1

 

The heat is building up around us, that heavy, somnolent heat which weighs you down. A trickle of sweat runs down my temple and I wipe it away impatiently. No breeze moves a leaf or a twig and the birds seem strangely silent.

 

I turn and look towards the hills and see dark banks of clouds looming high into the sky, threatening and foreboding.

 

We drive out on a quest to see black rhinos, glad to have the wind through our hair from the moving vehicle. A rainbow lights up the sky, seemingly landing on a small herd of elephants. A soft rain dampens the heat and we hear the bird chorus begin in earnest.

 

 

Our mood improves as we head over a rise to be greeted by the sight of an elusive black rhino and calf. She has the longest horn I've seen in years and we notice that she has not one calf but her older calf from previous years is with her also.

 

 

Just when we are congratulating ourselves on our good spotting, another cow and calf appear and then a bull walks out from behind a croton bush. Six black rhinos altogether!! I am exultant.

 

[twaffle]

The very slight rain has brought out the vivid smells of the herbs and all around us we can see activity as little creatures move about. We scan the swamp for signs of the leopard which we know must be close as the vervet alarm calls are loud and insistent. Sitting quietly we wait and look and wait some more.

 

A head appears, at a distance and we enjoy watching the young leopard hunting for the next half hour and she slowing moves closer and closer.

 

Eventually we move a short distance away where 2 lions are continuing their courtship.

 

Checking the leopard with binoculars we notice her approaching and with hearts in our mouths we see her come closer and closer to the lions who have been joined by another male.

 

Head down, tail up, the young leopard moves ever closer and we hold our breaths. Suddenly she stops, looks then before we can re-focus our lenses she has leapt into the nearest tree where she keeps a vigilant and anxious watch.

 

The lions give no sign of being aware of her presence. Thankful for not being witness to any carnage, we sit by a fallen tree, drinking our gin and tonics and enjoying the lions company.

 

As the African night falls like a blanket over us, we begin to make our way back to camp, well pleased with our afternoon.

[twaffle]

Some photos from the game drive follow in no particular order …

 

And finishing off with my cousins!!!!

[Jan]

What fantastic viewing, Twaffle! I need my daily fix from you! We'll have to send you to Africa more often!

 

 

Jan

Edited February 3, 2011 by Jan

[Game Warden]

Some stunning shots. Puts you right in the action. Thanks.

[samburumags]

Gasp! what shots, can we ask what the camera is??

[twaffle]

Thanks everyone, I'm finding it hard to choose photos to illustrate my trip as I overused the CF cards somewhat.

 

Samburumags I was using a Canon 7D and 5Dmk2.

 

Jan, anytime you want to send me off on safari, anytime .........

[BonitaApplebum]

Twaffle,

 

 

Truly wonderful photography and story telling. Really enjoying it!

[twaffle]

Thanks BonitaApplebum.

[twaffle]

REFLECTIONS

 

Midday, a slight cloud cover provides relief from the sun. I sit writing of the days events, reliving the morning's adventures when a tap, tap, tap catches my attention.

 

The hornbills are back at the window, tapping at imaginary foes. I turn to watch them but am surprised by small, black, inquisitive faces peering at me. Not from outside the window, but climbing down from the window sill into the room.

 

I yell loudly, growling and looking as fierce as I can. The troop of vervets stop, stunned at this aggressive display and in horror retreat.

 

My feeling of victory is strong as they ascend to the roof thatching, waiting for their next opportunity.

 

A few minutes later I hear yelling from the banda down the hill from us. Ah ha, they have found their next opportunity already and chuckling gently I continue with my journals.

[pault]

Great viewing (and shooting) at Lewa. Still reading and enjoying. Well done with the vervets.

[Jan]

Jan, anytime you want to send me off on safari, anytime .........

 

 

Twaffle, I wish I could. Every year it gets more expensive, and that single supplement doesn't help for we lone female

 

travellers. Not all my girlfriends can afford it. A couple of years ago my friend Mary and I stormed through Botswana

 

together, and the camps knew that we had been there!

 

I'm so enjoying your report, I don't want it to end!

 

 

Jan

[PT123]

Twaf,

 

Your report keeps getting better and better! Five black rhinos and a leopard - awesome!

[tonypark]

Fantastic, Twaff.

 

Looking for a nice black rhino pic for the next cover. Lost your email when my laptop crashed before xmas. Can you please email me.