Maiden safari for the city folks

[Kitsafari]

So we went off to the savannahs to look for the wildebeests. On the way we saw a slender tail mongoose and a saddle bill stork. Mesenger wanted to bring us to the Kenya-Tanzania border, and on the way there we saw two large groups of cape buffaloes. It was the largest herd we had seen – numbering about 30-40 with babies and the young sheltered within the group. As usual, the buffaloes gave us the Look - Go on, Make My Day, and wisely, we gave them the space and left.

 

Mesenger’s sharp eyes caught a movement under a tree and we drove closer to it. The tree was across a small stream, and under it, was a male lion and 3 lionesses, all flattened out and asleep. Another Asilia vehicle from Sayari came to join us quickly after Mesenger radioed them. They were familiar with the territory and were fearless about crossing the stream. After getting stuck twice that morning, we weren’t going to take chances going first, so we were happy for them to take the lead! We crossed over and stopped about 10 metres away from the lions.

 

The male completely ignored us but two of the females were restless. One of them came from behind the tree, and looked straight at me. she crouched behind the grasses, looking directly at me, peering at me behind those grasses. I shrank further into my seat…. Then a second female got up, and moved away from the group, went behind our vehicle. My husband and I glanced back at the first female then turned back and found that the second female had vanished from sight. We quickly told Mesenger. It looked like an age old tactic of lions – separate and cover all angles before an attack. Mesenger didn’t take us seriously but he did move down from sitting on the window into his seat. We finally saw the second female lying down behind our vehicle but she didn’t look like she was in an attack mode. At least that was what I hoped then! in any case, it was time to move on.

 

The savannah in Lamai is gorgeous with the long grasses with reddish tops swaying in the breeze. I really loved the scenery there, it was sort of tranquil and peaceful silence because it was such vast flat plains with no interruptions, but of course it was empty too, so, at the same time, how I wished I was in the Mara camp enjoying the game.

 

We had lunch at a top of a hill, watching the wildebeests who were in Lamai making a beeline for the marsh. We continued driving amidst the wildebeest then headed back to camp for a shower and dinner. On the way back, a leopard turtle was slowly crawling across the road.

[Kitsafari]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 11, 2019 by Kitsafari

[Kitsafari]

 

sunset at Lamai

 

Edited April 11, 2019 by Kitsafari

[Kitsafari]

last day now - after all that rambling and long-winded accounts, finally a glimpse of the end.

 

July 2

 

The next day, it was back to the river. The Sayari vehicle had come from south of the river using a very narrow bridge over which Mara River flowed. The Sayari drivers were used to driving across the bridge day in and day out, and knew that bridge and its cracks and crevices inside out. If the tide was high, the Sayari drivers might have to take a huge roundabout route back to the south of the river and that would have taken 4-5 hours. Mesenger brought us to the bridge. One look at it, and I was adamant we weren’t crossing it. it was just wide enough to fit the open vehicle, and there was a hole on one side of it. Mesenger was new to the area, and new to the bridge. I had no confidence in him and he didn’t sound keen to have a go. What sealed that decision - an Asilia vehicle lying on its side in the river next to the bridge. It had been there for a week, a clear sign of the dangers of trying to cross that bridge in the hands of an inexperienced driver.

 

 

 

 

 

A large pod of hippos were in the waters - over 60 visible ones. Some olive baboons crossed our path, and we sighted a go-away bird among the bushes. I kept a watch on the banks, and sure enough another crossing was just starting. It was shorter in duration but the crossing was thick with the beasts, as they heaved and grunted across the river. We could see a couple of them crying in the waters across the river, presumably because as they jumped they injured themselves and were unable to move. Another got its legs stuck between rocks and sadly it was so exhausted, it just sat down for the rest of the time.

 

Three black crocodiles cruised into the action. The takings were easy and fast given the sheer numbers of wildebeests crossing at the same time. Two caught calves and dragged them into the water. I could see one of the calves raising its head as it was dragged. I kept reminding myself – that is the cycle of life, but I had to look away. The third croc – a huge one - caught hold of one but got too close to the crossings and the wildebeests used it as a stepping board. I cheered! Mesenger was pretty amused. But the croc managed to get away with a wildebeest clamped tight in its jaws.

 

It wasn’t as bad as I had thought it would be. I was warned the sounds of the wildebeest being caught would be pretty upsetting, but the grunts and noises made by the other wildebeests drowned out the sounds. I guess I had also mentally shut it out as well.

 

 

2nd crossing

 

 

 

 

 

It was a smaller crossing than yesterday’s but no less spectacular. I could have stayed and watch the whole day but Mesenger felt that the predators would be ready to get into the hunt, so off we went for some action. Or not. As it turned out, most of the big cats were still on the south bank. Mesenger said we were very lucky to catch a crossing, let alone two, in one trip. Apparently some guests can wait a couple of days and still see none. I wasn’t sure if that was the truth or was meant to comfort us for not being placed in a camp we wanted.

 

We returned to the Kenyan border, drove around a bit and met another vehicle. The driver said they saw some lions on the rocks, so we went in search of them. After circling around the rocky mound, Mesenger went closer into the rocky area and finally saw them. Hidden behind some bushes were a pair of male and female lions, fast asleep in the shade. It was a different pack.

 

There was one thing I had not mentioned yet. Although Lamai camp was brand new, its vehicle was not. We got stuck 3 times in two days. The open vehicle could stutter and die halfway through a drive, or it would take a few turns of the key before it would start up, making a ruckus as it did. Sometimes I wondered if it would start at all.

 

So there we were, with the pair of lions about 10 feet away. The bushes were blocking the lions’ faces and we asked Mesenger if he could move the car forward just a little to get a clear picture. I prayed hard and the car started well. The noise didn’t awake the lions, but the car couldn’t move forward – the front wheels were blocked by a rock. And Mesenger had a bit of problem reversing straight too. I think all four of us (including a guide in training who came for the ride) prayed really hard. Mesenger turned the wheels a little, reversed quickly and got out of the place just as fast. We weren’t going to protest. Getting stuck in front of the lions was just a wee bit too adventurous for our souls.

 

 

 

 

 

this was taken with my normal digital camera, so couldnt zoom in.

 

We noticed 2 cars in the distance, parked near a tree for a very long time. No one got off the vehicles so it was clear they were not there for a meal. After our lunch, we drove forward for an answer. It was a group of three cheetah brothers, rolling on the ground and resting in the shade. There weren’t many trees in the plains, and the acacia trees afforded little shade. Messenger turned off the engine, and we watched them. Unfortunately, the other guide started chatting to Mesenger, and their loud conversations unnerved the cheetahs. One of them got up, stretched on the tree and sauntered off. The other two quickly followed it to another tree, and they laid down to rest again.

 

Before we could follow them, we noticed a lone gazelle down the slope. Its tail was twitching furiously and it was sniffing the air as it faced in the direction of the cheetahs. Neither of the vehicles moved, we were going to watch how this played out. The gazelle was in a huge plain, with no barriers around it and we thought it was a good time to make its escape. To our horror, it moved forward, towards the cheetahs. Mesenger said it was probably trying to get a sight of where the cheetahs were, or were up to. Well, it did more than that. It started to walk slowly and cautiously towards the cheetahs. You can read the thoughts in our minds – why on earth would it go towards the cheetahs when it could run off in all the other directions?? It came closer and closer to the cheetahs. We couldn’t see the cheetahs as the long grasses blocked our views, so we had no idea if the cats were preparing to attack. The gazelle got closer, then it was in line with the cheetahs, it stopped, sniffed the air, and then quickly bounded off. We all collectively heaved a sigh of relief! Amazingly the cheetahs were not interested in the gazelle. It had a narrow and lucky escape. Yet again, we were so in the moment, we didn’t snap any photos.

 

 

 

After that exhausting suspense played out, we left the cheetahs to rest and drove among the wildebeests. Just to sit among the wildebeests was a joy. I’m not sure why the poor creatures earned a reputation for being one of the ugliest animals. I think they are quite handsome. Their coats were smooth and shiny, their beards a dignified white, and their flat noses added character. Well, yes, they are not the smartest creatures on earth, but they have a beauty of their own. Just like warthogs, with a mane on their backs, they look pretty cute. Or the hyenas. They look scary but awesome, the huge strength in their wide chest and powerful jaws.

 

That was the end of our game drives. By the time this post has gone up, the Lamai camp would be surrounded by the wildebeests and the hunts will return. We were put there just too early in Lamai. If we had chosen the Lamai camp ourselves, then we would have accepted the responsibility for making the mistake of judging the timing of the migration. The migration was a little earlier this year, so at least we caught a couple of crossings and we enjoyed being surrounded by wildebeest. But we were put on the wrong side of the river at the wrong time, and didn't end the safari on a sweet note. Still our maiden safari has whetted our appetite and we will surely be back to see the stunning animals of Africa.

 

Thanks for reading my long-winded report to the end!

 

Edited April 11, 2019 by Kitsafari

[Kitsafari]

Just a quick summary of the camps/lodges:

 

Oliver’s, Dunia and Olakira Lamai are all Asilia properties and are semi-permanent or mobile tents, which mean they are made of canvas. Oliver’s semi permanent tents were on a wooden floor with wooden doors and a larger verandah, which makes it larger than the other two. Dunia and O Lamai tents had the same concept – divided into a reception area, bedroom and a bathroom. We didn’t feel cramped in the tents, but it was very hot and oppressive at noon time in the tents, which had no fans, so we opted for full-day game drives since it was cooler out in the fields! Food was the best at Oliver’s but all the pampering spoiled me terribly. For lunch on the first day, Lamai packed a sandwich with one slice of ham and I was disappointed with it.

 

The managers and their teams were fantastic. Tanzanians provide one of the best services in the world! Peter at Dunia and Richard at Lamai were there every time we left and arrived. It is communal dining at night at all three but it was fun to mingle and swap stories. One thing great about Asilia is their commitment to promote and support the local community. Peter and Richard are Tanzanians and it was fab to see them have the opportunity to manage camps. In Oliver’s, they encourage you to invite your guide to have lunch or dinner with you, and we took that up one evening for Freddie our guide. That’s showing respect for guides, who do really work hard.

 

Gibb’s farm is a lodge inside a coffee plantation. Our room was gorgeous, huge, airy and spacious with a fireplace that served the bathroom and sitting room. Food servings were big and quality was top notch. Manager Peter took good care of us. One afternoon an elephant came thrashing through the plantation, and one night during dinner, my hubby was out smoking and the staff were busy trying to prevent a buffalo from coming up the porch!

 

We were there during winter – nights and early mornings were very chilly but days were sunny and hot. We had rains - thunderstorms actually – only in Lamai but these were only in the nights.

 

Tarangire was very green and mostly plains with bush at some areas. Oliver’s was in the bush region. Manyara is forested which makes it hard to see animals while the crater was flat with short grasses, so it was clear. Grasses were growing in Central Serengeti but we still could make out animals but they were very tall in Lamai, making it hard to spot animals. This was before the zebras and wildebeests arrived, so this must have changed since.

 

The Asilia mobile tents are wonderful and the camp staff were fantastic, but I think for the next trip we would alternate between mobile tents and lodges.

[Sangeeta]

What a beautifully written report this is, @@Kitsafari - you write with a great deal of feeling and a genuine love of animals. Glad you did not abbreviate - your concerns about the land, the predator and their prey are all evident to the reader. Very, very nicely illustrated as well. You can add one more STer to the long list of jealous caracalers

 

That Mara bridge is something else, isn't it? Most of the time, though, people are dying to get over to the Lamai side of the river.

 

From one wildie fan to another, great job with this report and I want to hear all about the Northern Lights too!

[Kitsafari]

Thanks Sangeeta. I guess the grass is always greener on the other side. But we did revel in the beautiful serene landscape in Lamai, admiring the shades of red, pink and yellow tops of the grasses when the wind blew. like a gentle wave. I did feel quite at peace in that place, a change from the hustle and rush of racing to see yet another animal. But the Mara bridge - it's a brave soul who drives on it!

[Game Warden]

Thanks for a great selection of images and your observations

[ZaminOz]

@@Kitsafari

Wonderful photos and a wonderful writing style. I thoroughly enjoyed reading your maiden trip report... And look forward to the next!

 

PS... Will you ever look at the Singapore Zoo night safari in the same way again?

[Kitsafari]

@@ZaminOz, thank you for staying the course! I don't think i can bear looking at any animal in a cage anymore.

[Kitsafari]

@@Game Warden - i had been bursting with wanting to share our experiences with someone, so thank your for giving me the platform to share them with more experienced and knowledgeable safari veterans!

[twaffle]

I really enjoyed this report and the photos. Thank you Kitsafari.

[graceland]

Excellent report and pics. Loved your style and although disappointment with your last tent, you all managed to come through with many great shots and stories.

 

Did the TA explain the change in Olakira camps? I can't imagine planning and dreaming of one camp ~ and ending up at another.

 

I have to admit I'm a bit nervous about my upcoming TZ safari - though not in Serengeti - as I am "imaging" and "dreaming" one thing and who knows what reality will bring....or bite! Just go with the flow as you did

[Kitsafari]

@ twaffle, thank you for your kind words. I thoroughly enjoyed your Feb 2013 report with the beautiful photos!

 

@@graceland, the weird thing was the African TA told my local agent that I was at the right camp! even they themselves couldn't tell the difference between Olakira Mara and Olakira Lamai. The staff at Lamai really made up for the mess done by the ground agent. and that is such a shame. if the ground agent messes up, it undermines the great efforts invested by the camp managers and their staff in building the image.

Here's wishing the best of safaris in your upcoming TZ trip, and look forward to another terrific report.

Edited August 6, 2013 by Kitsafari

[Kitsafari]

after i shared the pictures and the safari report with my friends, a few of them have shown keen interest in going. a couple of them had been to South Africa and seemed to have gone to the farms where they could pat or walk with the lion cubs. although i told them what would happen to the cubs in 4-5 years' time, they seemed skeptical about it. I wonder if the US will succeed in putting the lions on the endangered list.

[Uh_oh busted]

Lovely report and beautiful pics! We've been to Botswana and Zimbabwe (and a little in SA) but not yet to Tanzania or Kenya. One of these days....

[johnkok]

Wonderful report of your first safari. I'm another safari addict who has never set eyes on a caracal. Lucky lucky you.

[Atravelynn]

Holy cow, caracals. Or maybe that should be holy cat. To see two of them and get such an excellent shot of one is an amazing feat. That's why we're all so excited about the caracals.

 

 

"Even if we saw the same animals, it would tell us a different story each time." Great quote, @@Kitsafari.

 

Glad the crossing was such a success for you. You really had an abundant and well rounded safari. If it is any consolation, many folks would be going, "Great, an open vehicle!"

Edited August 7, 2013 by Atravelynn

[Kitsafari]

Thank you all. sorry i took a few days to answer as i was travelling. I wasn't sure if what we saw during the safari was typical or out of the ordinary. all we knew was that we were darn excited over everything - from the beautiful scenery to each of the animals from birds to big cats. the country I come from is a small island - only 280 sq miles in size, or just 3 times washington DC, and we are very built-up with tall buildings with no animal farms on our land. Hence, our fascination with the vast plains.

 

From the trip reports here, and from Tripadvisor reports, it seemed game drives were always productive. But based on the comments from the veterans and well-travelled "safaritees", I have to consider ourselves very very lucky to have such a well-rounded safari (as @@Atravelynn said). now i'm just wondering if we could sneak a one-week trip to botswana early next year....

[Atravelynn]

If the one week trip includes 7 days in Botswana, I think you should investigate. No hurt in getting the info and then you can decide.

[pault]

Great ending and I apologise for this but I am very happy you ended up in Lamai Wedge as it meant I was able to revisit a number of places with you, I believe (although don't ask me how I can tell from half a trunk) that your cheetahs were under the same tree as two cheetahs I saw there last Ocotber - and I note the same tree appeared in the Disney movie "African Cats" as a resting place for the River Pride after their trek south. Given the amount of shade options in that area can you imagine how much action that tree has seen? I am also pretty sure I recognise a couple of lions, and would claim to fondly recognise a bush or two, but I think that would be going too far.

 

Really enjoyed this.

 

Seems like your supply chain got a bit stretched. with your accommodation booking Your TA to the local TA to Asilia. Really your Tanzanian TA should have been Asilia since you were at their camps throughout the trip, but it all seems a little more complex that that for some reason. Were your guides from Asilia?

 

Anyway, you had a seriously good first safari.

 

If it might cheer you up, know that the area around Olakira is not spectacular for game - pretty good, but certainly not likely to be better than north of the river.Olakira is located for crossings and a reasonable chance of access in bad weather - not really for general game. Luck varies on both sides. On the south there are more roads and more vehciles, meaning more reports of where the cats are hanging that you can follow up on, and this gives the chance of more sightings it is true.There is also a much larger area to explore. However, if you had been on the Olakira side, to get to many of these sightings (and some crossing spots) you would have had to cross the boulder bridges accross what would probably have been flowing streams. with a fair amount of water. Based on what you say elsewhere, doing that in an open vehicle (i.e. one you could with imagination fall out of) would not have been your happiest memory... and you would have been doing it 3-6 times a day. You could have ended up on your backs in the gulley, waving your legs in the air like an overturned beetle - with three of you, the number of legs would be just right! Doesn't mean you shouldn't be upset, but there was a silver lining.

 

Also, you were not lied to about crossings. It is highly likely you will see something at the right time of year, but a crossing of two hours is special - few people will get to experience that.

 

I would have crossed the bridge. The overturned Olakira vehicle is more than a little intimidating - as is the fact that they hadn't fished it out yet - but the water looks passable to me (sitting safely in my office ). My Mum didn't want to cross either but we just ignored her.

[Jochen]

Catching up on this report.

 

Just want to state that we live in a very unfair world.

I mean; 2 caracals! Really??

 

I've yet to see my first.

 

[Kitsafari]

If the one week trip includes 7 days in Botswana, I think you should investigate. No hurt in getting the info and then you can decide.

 

thanks @@Atravelynn. i'll have to start planning for May as my husband can only make it at that time. hopefully it isn't peak season yet. will definitely seek the advice of the well travelled writers in ST in the trip planning section. always nice to plan ahead, and have a holiday to look forward to, and which makes the working days go by quickly.

[Kitsafari]

@@pault I'm very sure it was the same tree! as you say, not that many trees that the cats can seek refuge in.

 

about the agents - the Singapore agency's head office is in SA, and they used asilia as the ground agent. the Olakira lodging was the second accomodation that they messed up. we were supposed to stay at exploreans for the Ngorongoro sector, but somehow we didn't get the room and we ended up in Gibbs Farm. They did make up for it (free stay at gibbs farm since my singapore agent really had a go at them), but then they messed up with olakira. what we were upset with was the manner they did it - without consulting or telling us ahead. but yes, that could have added costs to the trip. it was our first trip, and i didn't have the benefit of ST then!!

 

But i agree with you, Lamai Wedge was beautiful, tranquil and serene, with the red oats grasses swaying like gentle ocean waves. and we never saw vehicles for hours at a stretch. so we basically had the place to ourselves most of the time.

[africapurohit]

@@Kitsafari just found your report following your reference to Tarangire in my report - wonderful photos and details. You had some amazing sightings!

 

I also got the impression that you support LFC..........anyway YNWA