Northern Serengeti trip, August/September 2013

[graceland]

Patsy, your photo skills (and when editing that too) are amazing. I remember your first trip to South Africa with Caroline as we emailed back and forth and even then I thought you were so adept with a camera; but now - WOW. Love them all!

 

Yes, a 5th wil take place. First, as you - South Africa ('07) and on from there!

 

Funny thing about the back....I had a fusion two years ago and nothing in Africa bothers it. Must be powerful endorphins. I do however sit up front with less bounce and take several pillows from the camps and make a cushion for myself. Works like a charm. As do sundowners!

 

Keep them coming; I do not take nearly as many or as good photos as many here so I enjoy them so...I do believe its too late to teach this ole dog editing.

And the hair - thats why hats were invented. Just love them, as lanterns which do not emphasize those additional wrinkles we pick up in the sun and wind!!

 

Great report! Looking forward to more.

[Sangeeta]

Truly amazing lion silhouette. Would love to see that entire series in a separate thread if you can share. All the photos are to die for, though!

 

Were you based out of one camp or did you use a mobile setup for this safari?

[PCNW]

Sangeeta we did two nights in The Coffee Lodge, four in Nomads Lamai and four in Sayari. Two camps that were fairly close yet we never felt we were exploring the same locations. Then on to Zanzibar. Deo guiding at both camps.

 

Wow Graceland I wouldn't have thought you could be comfortable in a game vehicle following a fusion but a true testament to a surgery that must have gone well.

[Peter Connan]

Patsy, you got some really amazing photos! I really love the Dassie (Hyrax) on the rock, as I do the Klipspringers. Some of the crossing photos are absolutely fabulous and I can't wait to see the comments on those at ODP.

[PCNW]

To be honest Peter no single photo would be "Photo of the week" material on ODP, no real home run winners. But I'll share anyway. I always enjoy the helpful comments, suggestions and support. But thank you.

[graceland]

Sangeeta we did two nights in The Coffee Lodge, four in Nomads Lamai and four in Sayari. Two camps that were fairly close yet we never felt we were exploring the same locations. Then on to Zanzibar. Deo guiding at both camps.

 

Wow Graceland I wouldn't have thought you could be comfortable in a game vehicle following a fusion but a true testament to a surgery that must have gone well.

I'll just add for the benefit of anyone who thinks a safari is out of the question with having back surgery - undoubtedly false as not only was I extremely comfortable racing through Botswana, but just completed 50km of weaving our way through undiscovered areas of wild Ruaha sliding down banks along the river, climbing up rocks, scrambling over brush, stumps, rocks - you name it - no known trails - luckly a few elephant paths. I was slow and careful....and always took a hand if offered.

 

However, I'd add to be absolutely sure the doctor is one of the tops you can find ( I had a well known neurosugeon with 30yrs experience)- follow ALL the regiments required afterwards for at least a YEAR...(I did cancel our planned TZ drive 6 mos after the surgery - too soon)

...and life should continue on as normal, even with rods and screws...I feel they kept my spine supported. The only thing you'd not be allowed to do is bungee jump off Vic falls - and who wants to do that anyway.

 

..And sundowners are definitely medicinal!

 

 

PCNW, you have had some amazing safaris in the past year; I can't wait to see where you end up next! A walk on the wild side?

[PCNW]

Graceland it depends on my travel partner. If Caroline she wants to do gorilla's although I think not on that one. Just doesn't seem like enough bang for the buck. I have always wanted to do Mara Plains but now with the mall thing and other Somali issues going on I probably won't do Kenya. I loved Botswana in the green season. If it's with my husband he wants to do a Londolozi type place/wine country/Cape Town sort of vacation. Need more construction work for that trip though!!

 

We cancelled a girls only trip last Dec. to Rekero and Naboisho because of a back issue with one of my friends so there is that type of trip to consider too. It's funny you brought that up....I was all over the continent via the web this am...just dreaming.....

[PCNW]

Up early and packed with both breakfast and lunch we left Lamai and some new friends and headed to Lobo where we would meet Deo's son Fadhil and exchange vehicles. Deo had wanted to show us a different area and landscape and since Fadhil was taking clients to the Lobo airstrip we met them there. It was a full day trip not getting back to our new camp Sayari until about 5:00 and in the pouring rain.

 

And again the landscape was ever changing even seeing red dirt reminding us of Georgia in the US. I will say that although we had interesting sightings early and then again late a big portion of the day felt more like a drive rather than a game drive. But...so what, it was great just to be out.

 

Lamai with a beautiful view from every porch.

 

 

Seeing these babies makes me wonder just how if must feel to his mother to have him folded up inside of her.....Poor light most of the day.

 

 

We came on these two lions that to me were the epitome of "road hard and put up wet." And if you wrote a story I believe the ending would be.... Kings No More. One had been caught in a snare although Deo and I agreed that it wasn't embedded anymore but clearly had been there for awhile.

 

 

 

 

We stopped for lunch and admired this range of mountains and I'll be honest I can't remember the name.

 

 

With the light not great we stumbled on this lioness and her two cubs. After watching them play with her tail in the den she decided to get some relief and stepped away. They considered following but then changed their mind.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 24, 2013 by PCNW

[PCNW]

On our last night at Lamai my husband had jokingly offered to buy our favorite askari's machete and since he didn't speak English we thought no more about it. He was at the car park the morning we left offering his machete for the price that had been suggested. Breck paid and that made Deo laugh, he then gave Breck a lesson on how to bargain on prices.

 

Below are our Sayari askaris, Breck and his newly bought machete and Deo with the pocket knife he had been given by Breck.

 

 

Our balloon ride was scheduled for the next morning and since it wasn't full we asked if Deo could go with us. That was fine and in the end they needed more bodies so a few of the staff that would never get the chance were able to go as well. I had done the ride in SA but since you can't go over game parks in SA it just couldn't compare to this ride over the Serengeti. And, Mr. "I'm not going to Africa....ok, but just once" said it was his favorite thing we did.

 

 

 

 

 

We had five "river crossings" dipping low enough that we nearly touched the water several times. We passed over Sayari waving and making sure everyone was awake.

 

 

 

 

The landing felt like we had been rear ended and again if you have a bad back this may not be the thing for you. I kept my camera on video and have a pretty good clip of the jolt. Breakfast cooked to order and champagne by the river followed.

[graceland]

Mr. "I'm not going to Africa...okay but just once" is HOOKED. I can tell by his smile;

same with Mr. Graceland who joined ST (Greenlantern) ,but just lurks....

 

He is already thinking NEXT...

maybe he and Brett ought to talk!

 

So nice you could take Deo with you on the ride; sure he loved it!

[twaffle]

Just love the river photo from the balloon and in fact all the photos and writing. Really enjoying it all. Loved the email you sent home, but somehow all those 'negatives' just don't seem to matter on safari. Looking forward to the rest.

[AKR1]

PCNW/Patsy,

 

Love your pictures- you have a knack for capturing the moment. I especially like the Giraffe looking backwards and the aerial shot of the river(crossings). Thanks for sharing your wonderful report.

Edited September 25, 2013 by AKR1

[pault]

I suspect from your email that on some level you don't want those folks to come to Africa! Great email... an abandoned Barbie! Hilarious. The lion pic in the same post is a lovely full stop to end it.

 

Love this report.. Great pics and a real openness about it. Excellent variety of sightings too out in that huge wilderness.

 

Thanks for taking me back there

[PCNW]

My word what kind words, all very appreciated and from the top dogs too.

 

Deo was too funny...if we were against the light he would say "let's get in a better position" because according to him if not someone might look at my photos and ask..."who guided you"?

 

We came upon this cub in the early morning and Deo said work fast because if we stop people will come, and they did. This is the shy cub that we saw with the beat up Mum, a few photos in poor light and that was it.

 

 

 

 

Later a pair of lionesses, one that we startled:

 

Startled

 

 

and the other...well all I can say is that she was "The Three (Many) Faces Of Eve".

Coquettish

 

Mad

 

Happy

 

Nauseated

 

Hungry

 

Shy

 

Satisfied

 

Constipated???

 

And believe me she had several more but I don't want to run the risk of boring everyone.

Edited September 26, 2013 by PCNW

[TonyQ]

Great report -superb photos

It is interesting to hear about your mix of emotions watching the wildebeest crossing the river. People often talk about the spectacle, but you also talk about how heart wrenching it can be to see it. Thanks for that.

[ZaminOz]

@@PCNW

I love that last leopard photo. Beautiful locked on stare!

[PCNW]

Thank you Tony and ZaminOz for following along and the positive words.

 

These little fellows at Lamai were nearly tame, they were so habituated. If you sat very still curiosity would get the best of them and they would come to within 2 1/2 feet to investigate. They're also little thieves stealing from the unattended food prep room.

 

 

 

A few photos of those down on their luck so to speak.

 

 

 

 

Deo in his "timeout chair."

 

 

And a few more of what we came to see.

 

 

 

And this little filly was in rare form dancing, prancing and entertaining us for a good while. I suspect her mother was a first timer as she tired her darnedest to keep up with her calf and scold her into behaving.

 

 

 

And as she finally finished she walked by and seem to be saying "humph, did you get a load of that?"

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[PCNW]

 

We came on these two subadults and Deo seemed to think they had been ousted from their pride prematurely. If so it seems they might have a tough go at making a living with their limited hunting skills and experience.

 

 

 

Tender moment.

 

 

 

 

 

The day before our last drive Breck suggested that we forgo the afternoon drive so that Deo could start his 13 hour trip home. I didn't say anything since it was going to be hard for me to give up one last drive. To Deo's credit he said no, he wanted to give us all that he could. So we headed out on our last drive in the Serengeti and coaxed Deo to join us with a beer. At one point he meant to pick up his binoc's but mistakenly held his beer bottle to his eye. I had him recreate it for a photo op.

 

 

 

 

 

And our last photo on safari was of Deo sporting his new Florida Gator cap.

 

 

Next up is Zanzibar.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 26, 2013 by PCNW

[africapurohit]

I love the ostrich family shot!

[PCNW]

Thanks so much former member and AP. I almost didn't include the ostrich family as it was taken in such harsh light and not well focused.

 

We left the Kogatende airstrip with one stop before Arusha and totally forgetting about getting airsick I sat in the back. Since the flight was very bumpy this wasn't smart. I barely made it to the bathroom before upchucking. A coke, Dramamine and sitting up front and I was fine.

 

Once in Zanzibar we were met by a driver and driven to The Residence which was one hour south. The resort was all that we had hoped it would be, new, had current decor and many open air spaces. Really very lovely. The only thing slightly amiss was the food that was hit or miss. It became a game to see what was delivered after ordering room service....it usually involved a surprise or two.

 

 

 

 

I felt that the twice daily tides of Zanzibar would make the beaches even more interesting and it did. This is when the colorful locals come by to hunt for shells, bait and food frequently with children in tow.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We quickly made friends with all of the staff and really enjoyed getting to know these warm, kind people. The customer service was top notch.

 

There was a young man that came daily with an oxen driven cart to clean the seaweed off the beach. He knew very few English words but he did know "you can pet him" speaking of his bull. As a hotel employee he wasn't supposed to sell anything to guests but finally got the nerve to show me his stash of shells that he had tied on the underside of his cart. One shell that I bought is now a prize possession of my grand daughter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 6, 2019 by Tdgraves
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[AKR1]

Your photographs are just superb. Not just the animal shots but several landscapes and now human portraiture, all excellent. Assuming you are not a professional this really is exceptional work. Thanks again for your report and the pictures.

[Gilleshag]

Great pics!

[PCNW]

AKR1 thank you and you're correct about the non pro status. I was very lucky with the light in several of these.

 

In fact another ST'er, Peter Conan and I are members of Outdoorphoto.co.za and we were both given the boot from the beginners section in the last 6 months or so. They were a wealth of info and help when making my DSLR and lens choice for my first trip last summer. That was when I started putting effort and time into my photography. Thanks again, Patsy.

[graceland]

Beautiful Patsy --just lovely...esp. the faces of the ladies and children in Zanzibar. (and the lion montage with captions!)

 

I always love landscapes and people, along with the wealth of game in Africa and you captured them all.

I don't think you can call yourself amateur for sure!

[pault]

@@PCNW You've given Zanzibar a suitably dreamy look. Definitely needed booting out of that beginners section - that's almost fraud! ;-)

 

Always nice to see something other than wildlife - see what we're missing by scheduling every available day for the bush (i don't have many). Living in Thailand I haven't been tempted too much by the coast, but it is beautiful.