The Best Laid Plans of Mice and Men … a somewhat turbulent safari to Kenya

[twaffle]

 

Our safari was like the leaves caught in this spider web at Macushla …the intricate web pulling different ways but catching the colours and beauty of the places we would visit.

 

IN THE BEGINNING

 

As I sit under the trees at Utamaduni’s newly renamed Makutano Café on our day of departure, I have a chance, at last, to reflect on the last two weeks. The strange ups and downs we experienced which could have thrown a dampener on the whole trip but which didn’t. My attitude was that the curve balls thrown our way made me feel that I had had a proper adventure, one to remember with great affection.

 

 

It began for me over a year ago, the germ of an idea for this trip, after Rainbirder enticed with his Bogoria photos. I thought I’d add that in as a safari starter, knowing how much my husband would enjoy it. Having never been to Shaba I wanted to see the landscape there as I had heard so much about it, so that was added to my list. A return to Meru was also required, for as many days as I could manage. In my first iteration of the itinerary I thought I should end with some time at one of the Mara Conservancies as my husband hadn’t been there since 2005. I had always wanted to organise a safari with professional guide Squack Evans but previous plans just hadn't come to fruition.  This time, after contacting him about what I wanted to try and see, we had a plan that would utilise his new mobile camp and it all started to come together.

 

Later on in the planning I began to try and make work a separate trip to the Amboseli area for a safari with my son. As many would remember, he spent 7 weeks at Serian and I had thought that we could have a week’s safari at the end of it somewhere quite different. I thought that a week in the dust of Lake Amboseli would provide him with some variety and me with an opportunity to continue with a series of images to complement my exhibition work. A considerable amount of ground work later (thank you @@Safaridude), I realised that staying in Kitirua, the conservancy which best suited my needs, wasn’t possible at a cost that I could afford due to my needs for private vehicle, private guide and given the restrictions imposed by the only lodge with access. I am discounting Ker & Downey as they are out of my league! Despite being disappointed, I added it to my mental list for possible addition to this trip. However, early on it became apparent that it wasn’t really a possibility with another member of the group not wanting to visit Amboseli and that Ishaqbini was the prize he was aiming for and becoming more and more possible.

 

As planning proceeded, back and forth communications continued to look at new and different possibilities.  Bogoria had suffered from the flooding that effected many of the Rift Valley lakes and was no longer a viable option.  Squack suggested a new camp, Laikipia Wilderness, that was getting excellent reviews for its wild dog sightings.  Ishaqbini was becoming more and more an option and as my husband and I had attended the launch of a campaign by The Nature Conservancy a year or so before, we were both very interested in seeing the last refuge of the endangered Hirola antelope.  With numbers less than 500, this antelope belongs to its own genus and is of special interest to anyone who finds antelopes fascinating.  Ishaqbini is more than just a sanctuary for the Hirola.  It is a unique ecosystem that also hosts coastal topi, zebras that have little or no mane, Harvey's Red Duiker, Haggard's Oribi whilst on the other side of the Tana river the primate reserve has endemic Mangabey and Red Colobus.  It was an exciting destination, no less for the fact that it is near the border with Somalia where El Shabaab operates with little impunity and that frisson of danger always adds to a safari, provided it isn't too close!

 

Our final itinerary looked like this:

overnight at Macushla House

2 nights at Joy's Camp in Shaba NR

4 nights in Squack's mobile camp in Meru NP

4 nights at Laikipia Wilderness Camp on the Ol Donyo Lemboro ranch

5 nights in Squack's mobile camp in Ishaqbini Conservancy

overnight Macushla House 

 

 

Edited December 19, 2018 by twaffle

[twaffle]

THE TRIP BEGINS

 

After weeks of planning, here I sit on a plane hours into the long journey to Nairobi. On a full plane, it is interesting to observe the way so many disparate people instinctively follow a set of rules to enable us to survive a 14 hour non stop flight in close proximity. Perhaps it should be part of our youth’s education to endure this sort of discomfort so that they can learn to become more tolerant of their fellow man.

 

I look at my hand as it rests on the tray in front of me and it occurs to me that it is aging subtly from one flight to another. A few more wrinkles, a few more scars and blemishes and I wonder how many more safaris it will see. It can’t go on for ever, but something tells me that I must make the most of this trip.

 

This trip which has evolved its own life and rhythm. 

 

What are my big hopes for this safari? More importantly, what are the biggest fears?

 

A LIONLESS SAFARI

 

Two days before departing home it suddenly occurred to me that on this safari I may, for the first time, NOT see a lion. How do I feel about that possibility? A bit sad, if truth is told. Whilst never a top priority, lions provide a most satisfying and fulfilling vision both photographically and in a spiritual, earthy sense.

 

So here I sit on the plane, an hour out of Doha, another 5 hour flight to go, thinking not of the hardships of economy class travel in the 21^st Century, but of the sadness of a Kenyan wilderness without lions. I realise that it is the emptiness we will all feel if nothing is done about the rapid decline in the wild lion population in sub-Saharan Africa. With the flick of the brain switch I can smell the earthiness of our mobile camp buried in the wilds of Meru. Little swirls of dust following our footfalls as we walk from tent to tent. I can see the distant Nyambene hills towering in blue and grey layers as a backdrop to the doum palms.

 

So much beauty.

 

In my mind’s eye I can see us following Wild Dogs at Laikipia Wilderness Camp, sightings which I long for. Hirola bounding away at Ishaqbini fill my heart with anticipation and joy. The excitement gathers with every mile closer to our destination we come.

 

But in the back of my mind, like a nagging message being thrown out at intervals, is the thought “how will I rate the success of this trip if not one lion is seen”?

 

This will indeed be an interesting trip summary that I will be writing in 2 ½ weeks.

Shaba – little hope of any cat activity

Meru – lions are there but don’t seem to be sighted often (at least from what I hear)

LWC – don’t hear of many lion sightings

Ishaqbini – a total mystery, who knows

 

DREAMS OF FUTURE PAST

 

I never really understood what The Moody Blues were singing about when they released the album ‘Days of Future Past’ but during the last hours of this long journey here to Kenya I think I am starting to understand. Daydreaming about the safari to come, I glance out of the window and see glimpses of a dry and brown land through the clouds. Encroaching ramshackle towns seem to spread fingerlike over the ground, the corrugated iron roofs looking like a metal patch work quilt. The plane is filled with more Chinese workers or tourists each time I fly, a direct reflection of the interest China has in conducting business in many African countries.

 

The breath catches in my throat as I remember little snippets of my childhood in this fascinating land. My memories are bound up in the happy and exciting days spent with my family. A time when life held endless possibilities and everything and everyone I loved were around me. The plane feels like it is coming into land very quickly and we fly past shanty towns, major building works and high rise after high rise before we land with a heavy bump, rising again before hitting the tarmac for another time. Bounced roughly out of my reverie, I realise that I would never be happy living here again and that visiting is the answer for me.

 

I stop my dreaming, dreaming of the future I saw for myself so many years ago when I was just a little girl and thought that my life would be bound to this country forever.

 

Edited December 15, 2018 by twaffle

[twaffle]

THE TRIP BEGINS

 

My husband and I were relaxing on those deep, comfortable sofas in the Macushla lounge, when Squack walked in to the room.  We hadn't expected to see him until we arrived in Meru, 3 days into the trip.  He didn't look too happy, I have to say.

 

Squack had driven all the way down from Nanyuki, his home town, to let us know that Ian Craig had called him that morning with the disturbing news that a gang of 22 Somali bandits had just entered the area close to Ishaqbini and was shooting at passing vehicles.  Two years of relative peace and security and now they decided to create mayhem on the eve of our safari down there.  We later heard that the number of bandits was closer to 50 and that they had attacked a police station relatively close to Ishaqbini.  The conservancy was a definite no-go zone.  I really felt for Squack, he had worked long and hard to make our visit a reality and now, after all the planning, it was not to be.

 

The three of us had a long conversation about what options were available and once the remaining two members of our group arrived, we discussed the options that seemed to best fit our itinerary.  We extended our LWC visit by one day and Squack offered to move his camp to Kitirua Conservancy adjacent to Amboseli NP.  Now some might think that I had a greater power over circumstances in the South Eastern part of the country, but I was secretly exultant by this change to the itinerary.  Amboseli, where I hadn't been since the late 1960s, where we used to visit often enjoying unparalleled game viewing of black rhinos with the most extraordinarily long horns, where Kilimanjaro towered with its white glaciers glinting in the sun.  I tried valiantly to disguise my happiness and despite some initial disappointment with not visiting Ishaqbini I was extremely satisfied with the turn of events.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 15, 2018 by twaffle

[Treepol]

Really enjoying this dual TR and looking forward to more.

 

What a shame about your last minute change of plans from Ishaqbini, however I'm sure there will be good stories and photos from Kitirua. A million flamingos at Lake Bogoria would be a fantastic sight!

[twaffle]

… BUT THIS IS AFRICA

 

 

Despite the disruption to the beginning of our trip, we were all up early and ready for our 8am departure. I write this as I sit on our Safarilink plane, watching the peaks of The Aberdares as they break through the heavy clouds and thinking about the morning we’ve just had.

 

Two cars picked us up with our pared down luggage (Squack having taken much of our 2 companion's luggage to Meru by car with him, I have to admit that I've rarely seen anyone travel with so much luggage!) and dropped us off at the Safarilink terminal. Who knew that the Safarilink terminal had moved all the way to the other end of the airport? We all stood around looking a little lost and after ringing our taxi driver and finding that he was already too far away to come and take us to the new terminal, I went up to one of the staff members to see if they could help us. They were very helpful, I think they deal with this dilemma quite often, and we were eventually ferried down to the very new, very smart, Safarilink terminal next to the departures lounge.

 

Of course, our problems hadn’t finished yet. No doubt due to Terry’s and my rather heavy load of camera equipment, the 4 of us were ‘slightly’ overweight. I hate to think what the overweight charges would have been if Squack hadn't taken some of the bags.  The magnanimous attendant only charged us for 20kg which was duly paid for. Turns out we were only 6 people in the plane which held at least double that amount so they could have been a little kinder to us.

By this time we are all feeling the stress and wondering how many times we are going to have to say “but this is Africa” to ourselves as we get on with it.

What a relief it is to land at Kalama Conservancy.

 

 

 

 

 

BURNISHED 

 

We are greeted by Abdi who explains that we will visit Buffalo Springs on the way to Joy’s Camp.

 

The wind is very strong and although early still, the sun promises to heat up the day quite quickly. There is a haze in the distance towards Mt Kenya although we can no longer see the clouds which covered that area.

 

 

I have no idea what to expect of this area although I am not expecting a heavy game load in this dry northern reserve. Despite that, the sight of a Grevy’s zebra as our first wild animal is particularly pleasing given my avatar and its vulnerable state (the zebra, not the avatar). We have some additional sightings, all helping us settle into the safari 'zone'.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leaving Kalama, we drive the new Chinese built road toward the frontier town of Archer’s Post before entering Buffalo Springs. Archer’s Post … words do not describe its awfulness.

 

 

In comparison, what a revelation this reserve is. An almost silvery sheen lies over the plains as we drive on roads made from white dust. The glare is almost unbearable. In my mind it is a burnished land, with even the northern warthogs turned a silvery grey.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 15, 2018 by twaffle

[twaffle]

 

 

 

We have a late breakfast by the Ewaso Nyiro river, watching elephants wade across the shallow, brown waters. I’m still coming to terms with positioning my new 200-400 lens in the vehicle and consequently the hand held shots aren’t as sharp as the lens and camera usually deliver.

 

Soon enough it is time to leave the Reserve and head towards Shaba and camp. With little sleep, I think we were all feeling the heat somewhat.

[twaffle]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 15, 2018 by twaffle

[twaffle]

[pault]

Love the look! Excellent! Haven't read it yet as I have to earn some money, but i do love the look.

[Game Warden]

Oh boy. Tea has just brewed, got some shortbread biscuits sorted. Now I'm going to start reading...

[twaffle]

Thanks, I wanted to make it look a little different. I hope the photos aren't too large Matt.

[Game Warden]

Not at all. Perfect. Even if they were, ST software resizes them to a max limit. So carry on... Hoping to see a pic of both of you together with Squack on Safari at some stage.

[africapurohit]

A thoroughly enjoyable start to your reports! Now I'm going to take a break from my report, sit back and relax a bit

[Game Warden]

and relax a bit

 

But not for too long @@africapurohit...

[pault]

I've dug a linguistic hole for myself. I said I love the look, but the content is even more impressive. I can't "very love" it and "really love" makes it sound as though the first love was insincere. What to do?

 

 

I know.......

 

This is perfect so far.

Edited December 15, 2018 by twaffle

[michael-ibk]

Just bravo, @@twaffle

 

Wonderful reading, wonderful pictures. I´m afraid I can´t fly off tomorrow now and will have to cancel in favour of reading the coming chapters.

 

A question about Post 6, picture 3: Maybe it´s just me, but something about the comparative sizes of the Grevy and the Beisa seems a little ... off. Some editing or perspective trick there? Or is it just me?

Edited December 14, 2018 by michael-ibk

[twaffle]

On 9/19/2013 at 9:47 PM, michael-ibk said:

Just bravo, @@twaffle 

 

Wonderful reading, wonderful pictures. I´m afraid I can´t fly off tomorrow now and will have to cancel in favour of reading the coming chapters.

 

A question about Post 6, picture 3: Maybe it´s just me, but something about the comparative sizes of the Grevy and the Beisa seems a little ... off. Some editing or perspective trick there? Or is it just me?

He was a very big zebra but I think the main thing is the long lens changing the perspective somewhat. It is straight out of camera with a slight crop only. Thanks for the nice comments.

Edited December 15, 2018 by twaffle

[Mosquito]

Oh my! What a great way to start my morning here in the US. Wonderful images with fantastic writing! Can't wait for chapter 2.

[wilddog]

there was a suggestion earlier that other changes in itinerary/ plans occured so I wondered if that section of the trip been resurrected a bit later.

 

If not - commiserations

Edited December 15, 2018 by twaffle

[Rainbirder]

What a superb trip report!

A masterpiece in duet!

 

This is Africa indeed and so the best-laid schemes o' mice an 'men.......

It is nontheless shocking as to what is happening at Ishaqbini. Hopefully the local folk and the wildlife can hold out.

 

The Buffalo Springs sandgrouse is a Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse (the only Kenyan sandgrouse to have elongated central tail feathers)-a much scarcer bird than the ubiquitous Black-faced Sandgrouse. Well done on this image of Dad & chick!

[francescodelv]

Thanks twaffle for share your trip. Beautiful images and words....i'm waiting your fantastic wild dog sighting

Edited December 15, 2018 by twaffle

[kittykat23uk]

Fantastic start both of you! Looking forward to reading more.

[graceland]

Just perfect Twaffle.

 

This, at a perfect time, as I tearfully (well no - downright crying) mentioned to" GL" last night after 9 hours of gastrointestional issues on United (8 days in the wild and I get sick on a plane!) that the constant pain and "loo" visits had drowned all the JOY I had felt after our expedtion with Moli and Noelle.

 

 

Seeing the African scenery and the beautifully captured shots of game is thankfully returning my own memories to me...and eventually I shall get them on paper. Meanwhile as I rehydrate and rest, the TR is salvation. I thought I'd never again get on a plane - but I lied. I'll just pack my own PB&J sandwich.

 

Hoping for more real soon. A terrific elixir.

 

 

 

Edited December 15, 2018 by twaffle

[owenshaffer]

Dear Twaffle,

 

I send you my warmest regards as your report has just made my day.

 

All the best,Owen

Edited December 15, 2018 by twaffle

[Double Dare]

Love it, love it, love it! I feel like I am on safari with you! The pictures, the writing - everything is superb. I don't know whether to ask you to write faster so I can read it now or write slower so I can savor the enjoyment!

Edited December 15, 2018 by twaffle