Kenya Safari - Masai Mara, Amboseli, Lake Nakuru, Lake Bogoria, Lake Naivasha, Selenkay and Ol Kinyei.

[FlyTraveler]

Hi @@Atravelynn , thanks for the good words.

 

The Kili photo is not mine, @@JohnR posted it as a result of my complaint regarding the overcast sky and the missed chance to see it. We were in Amboseli just for one day (kind of a full day game drive from Selenkay) and that was the only possibility to see and photograph Kili...

 

We did Lake Nakuru, Lake Bogoria and Lake Naivasha as a 2 days/1 night budget priced trip from Nairobi. We used African Game Trek Safaris and were quite happy with the experience. Left Nairobi about 08:30 in the morning, arrived at Nakuru town about noon (stopped for some Great Rift Valley panoramic photos on the way). Had lunch at the hotel in Nakuru, then did a game drive in the NP. Overnight at the hotel in Nakuru town (not a safari lodge or camp). On the next morning we left for Lake Bogoria (about an hour, perhaps hour and a half drive) and stayed there for about two and a half hours, then drove to Lake Naivisha (it was not in the itinerary, but the guide offered us to stop there for an hour long boat tour). The drive between Lake Bogoria and Lake Naivasha must have been about two and a half - three hours or so (sorry can not remember these timings). From there directly to our guesthouse in Karen, Nairobi.

 

We booked the Gamewatchers adventure camps as a package - 3 nights in Selenkay + 4 nights in Ol Kinyei (we added an extra night there) with the flights Wilson - Selenkay - Wilson - Ol Seki airstrip (Naboisho conservancy) - Wilson included, as well as a full day in Amboseli NP plus a full day in Masai Mara. We stayed another 3 days in Mara at Brian Freeman's camp afterwords.

 

On the first flight to Selenkay the plane was full with Gamewatchers customers only (they have a regular Porini camp there, as well), from Selenkay to Wilson we flew again with Gamewatchers customers (there are no other camps there), but from Wilson to Ol Seki we flew a regular AirKenya flight where we were the only GW customers. On the way back to Wilson we requested to have our flight 3 days later from Olkiombo airestrip (the closest to Brian Freeman's camp).

 

Itinerary and lodging:

1. Nairobi - Karen Embers guesthouse.

 

2. Lake Nakuru - some hotel in town (do not remember the name, it was organized by the safari company).

 

3. Nairobi - Karen Embers guesthouse.

 

4 - 5 - 6. Selenkay Conservancy - Gamewatchers adventure camp.

 

7 - 8 - 9 - 10. Ol Kinyei Conservancy - Gamewatchers adventure camp.

 

11 - 12 - 13. Central Mara - Brian Freeman Safaris camp (this one is a gem - we got a private vehicle at no extra charge with no time limit for game drives, we would leave the camp at 06:30 am and the only requirement was to be back by dark).

 

14. Nairobi - Karen Embers guesthouse.

 

So the itinerary was quite packed, but this was the only way to see the three lakes, 3 conservancies (Selenkay, Naboisho, Ol Kinyei plus we drove via Olare Orok and Olare Motorogi on the way back from Mara) and spend 3 nights in central Mara for 14 days long trip.

Edited February 2, 2014 by FlyTraveler

[TonyQ]

@@FlyTraveler

I have been through this report again as it has come to the top of the list

Last time I read it in bits as it was posted - this time I have been through it in one go

It really was an amazing trip, with excellent sightings and photos throughout

The practical detail is very helpful as well - very enjoyable read.

[Atravelynn]

“The Kili photo is not mine” Oh sorry, I misread the quote captions accompanying the photo. Hope my congratulations is not adding insult to injury for the elusive mountain. But missing Kili is the ONLY thing you missed, other than a caracal wrestling with a pangolin.

 

So you mixed and matched operators. Only 1 night with African Game Trek Safaris and you saw all that at the 3 lakes, really 4 lakes with Elementia??!! That’s very encouraging for anyone with limited time. Did you attempt to have Gametrackers do a similar itinerary as African Game Trek Safaris?

 

Your selection of locations combined beautifully. It is worth remembering this itinerary. I do think you were well above average on the luck factor for everything that came out and you have the photography skills to make the most of that luck.

 

Thanks for all the info, @@FlyTraveler!

[FlyTraveler]

@@FlyTraveler

I have been through this report again as it has come to the top of the list

Last time I read it in bits as it was posted - this time I have been through it in one go

It really was an amazing trip, with excellent sightings and photos throughout

The practical detail is very helpful as well - very enjoyable read.

Thanks TonyQ, I wish I have been to more safaris... Hopefully in June I'll be back from a trip to South Africa and Botswana and will be able to write another trip report.

[FlyTraveler]

“The Kili photo is not mine” Oh sorry, I misread the quote captions accompanying the photo. Hope my congratulations is not adding insult to injury for the elusive mountain. But missing Kili is the ONLY thing you missed, other than a caracal wrestling with a pangolin.

 

So you mixed and matched operators. Only 1 night with African Game Trek Safaris and you saw all that at the 3 lakes, really 4 lakes with Elementia??!! That’s very encouraging for anyone with limited time. Did you attempt to have Gametrackers do a similar itinerary as African Game Trek Safaris?

 

Your selection of locations combined beautifully. It is worth remembering this itinerary. I do think you were well above average on the luck factor for everything that came out and you have the photography skills to make the most of that luck.

 

Thanks for all the info, @@FlyTraveler!

No problem about the Kili photo, I just wanted @@JohnR to have the credit for his photo.

 

1 night and 2 days with African Game Trek Safaris - yes we saw all this, except Lake Elementeita, which we did not visit, but I managed to photograph it from the car while driving.

 

Yes, I did ask Gamewatchers about the lakes, but when I mentioned the price, the guy just said that such a price was impossible to achieve. They also insisted that we take the hotel that they recommended in Nairobi, but I insisted on the guesthouse. When we arrived we did have problem, indeed (double booking), but they provided a similar accommodation nearby which we liked even better.

 

The funny thing about African Game Trek Safaris was that the owner (or manager) was with us for the entire trip along with the driver-guide. This puzzled me a bit, but later on I thought that I figured out the reason for this - when we were alone with a driver, he would offer us a cheaper safari if we contact him directly next time. Both the owner (or manager) and the driver-guide were very nice, though and we had great time with them. Safari van, overnight at a small town hotel rather than a lodge or safari camp, but for a private tour for around $360 p.p I think that it was a very good deal.

 

I really tried to made the most out of the money paid and tried three different operators, each of them was excellent for the money paid (Gamewatchers - being in the private concessions for about $300 p.p.p.n. all transfer flights included; Freeman Safaris - central Mara location, huge en suite tent with a proper double bed, desk and 24 hours electricity, the best possible private safari vehicle and dark to dark game drives for $400 p.p.p.n.). If someone points me better prices (except self drives) than this (there are certainly better locations, better camps and better guides), I would be grateful. Someone started actually a budget Northern Tanzania safari (+ Zanzibar) report, but just sopped after the first installment, I would really like to read the entire report.

 

Actually some of the lodges in the private reserves west of Kruger have great prices - I managed to book Motswari Private Game Reserve for $180 p.p.p.n. (usually it costs quite a lot more than this) and Elephant Plains for about $220 p.p.p.n. I am still not sure how much I will like them... @@Terry posted a great trip report about a safari in Klaserie (Gomo Gomo lodge seems to be an excellent deal), Timbavati and Sabi Sand with amazing sightings of wildlife. I am yet to see how manicured these places are for my taste, but hey, for less than $200 p.p.p.n. there should be no complaints.

[Geoff]

enjoyable reading. Very nice images there too.

[pault]

@@FlyTraveler That's why there are the costed safari threads. Actually some good stuff in there. There is more for sure, but ever more difficult to find, with park fees so high. Still, if it can be done someone will do it, because demand is certainly there,

 

I think the poster of the Tanzania trip report said it was copied over from Lonely Planet forum. Perhaps more of it is there?

 

And nice additional pictures - great hippo action.

[FlyTraveler]

@@Geoff , @@pault Thanks for reading and for the good words.

[penolva]

Hi very interested in the Gamewatchers tents. Thinking of doing the same thing next year. Did you find the mattress comfortable? Did you take your own sleeping bags? I am a bit concerned that the tents are close together and that there is a fence around. What did you feel about the set up? Pen

[FlyTraveler]

Hi very interested in the Gamewatchers tents. Thinking of doing the same thing next year. Did you find the mattress comfortable? Did you take your own sleeping bags? I am a bit concerned that the tents are close together and that there is a fence around. What did you feel about the set up? Pen

 

 

The mattresses felt very comfortable to me and my wife, but we are not picky in general. It was our first night out in a tent on safari and I personally have not had a better sleep in my life.

 

You can take your own sleeping bags or you could rent from Gamewatchers (I believe for 10 dollars per night p.p.)

 

We liked the layout of the camp in Selenkay better - tents were a bit further from each other, the dining area was kind of more open.

There isn't any real fence at this camp (kind of bush and branches fence only).

 

Here are some photos of the tents in the Selenkay camp:

 

 

 

 

 

Dining / socializing / bonfire area:

 

 

 

In the Ol Kinyei camp tents were a bit closer to each other and there was a fence around the area where the tents were (not around the dining tent, though). This is needed since there are more predators in Ol Kinyei and also keep in mind that the toilet is just behind, but outside the tent.

 

Some photos from the Ol Kinyei camp:

 

 

 

Tent interior (very basic):

 

 

 

In general we liked the camps very much, we spent time in the tents only at night (sleeping). Between the game drives I would sit next to the dinging tent where the power outlets were with my laptop and go through the photos that I have taken (deleting the non keepers). That would take me 3+ hours (at least), so I did not feel bored even for a second. Some people would take a nap in the tents between game drives. The first night in Selenkay we were only 5 guests in the camp, the same for the last night in Ol Kinyei. In general the camp in Ol Kinyei is bigger. Food and guiding at both camps were great (at least by my standards).

 

My advise would be to extend in Ol Kinyei for at least one more night. One visit to Masai Mara is included in the package (as well as one visit to Amboseli NP from Selenkay), if you would like to go a second time to Mara, you can do so, but you need to pay for the park fees. The problem with this is that there is about an hour drive to the gate in Mara and the best times for safari (just after sunrise and before sunset) are wasted in transit. On the other hand you get to spend these prime times in the conservancies.

[Terry]

This is a wonderful trip report @@FlyTraveler. Not sure we would ever be brave enough to deal with a toilet in the middle of the night that was outside our tent. I would have to have one of those air horns for sure. You have fantastic cheetah and hippo pictures! Loved the lion cubs and elephants and the gorgeous sunsets. Enjoyed all the details of your camps and your sightings. Great pictures of the wildebeest crossings.

 

I did look up the Freeman Safaris. From your descriptions and what I read on the website, this looks like something we could handle. "Meru style tent with en-suite flushing toilet" and "double beds" - those are important words. Oh, the pictures of the leopard coming down the tree are great also.

 

Thanks for posting the report and I am glad you added to it and raised it to the top to get my attention.

 

 

I managed to book Motswari Private Game Reserve for $180 p.p.p.n. (usually it costs quite a lot more than this) and Elephant Plains for about $220 p.p.p.n.

 

How you booked Motswari for so little amazes me! For quite a while I followed the Motswari Ranger blogs and thought we would stay there in September, but then when we switched our trip to October, we got a deal at Kambaku to stay four nights and pay for three so we went there.

[penolva]

Thanks so much for posting the photographs. Think we will go for the trip and add one night extra at Ol Kinyei as you suggest. Hope we get to see the migration in Tanzania or there. Pen

[FlyTraveler]

 

I did look up the Freeman Safaris. From your descriptions and what I read on the website, this looks like something we could handle. "Meru style tent with en-suite flushing toilet" and "double beds" - those are important words. Oh, the pictures of the leopard coming down the tree are great also.

 

Thanks for posting the report and I am glad you added to it and raised it to the top to get my attention.

 

 

I managed to book Motswari Private Game Reserve for $180 p.p.p.n. (usually it costs quite a lot more than this) and Elephant Plains for about $220 p.p.p.n.

 

How you booked Motswari for so little amazes me! For quite a while I followed the Motswari Ranger blogs and thought we would stay there in September, but then when we switched our trip to October, we got a deal at Kambaku to stay four nights and pay for three so we went there.

Thanks for the good words @Tery ! Brian Freeman's camp in Mara is amazing, indeed (at least for me and my wife). You do not get animals inside the Gamewathcers adventure camps, so going to the loo in the middle of the night is not an issue, they have thought about that.

 

I booked Motswari via hotels.com and I paid the full amount at the moment (that was in early September for middle of May stay). It crossed my mind that it could be a mistake, so I forwarded the reservation to the lodge and they confirmed it. It also clearly states that two game drives per day plus full board are included in the price. By reading your TR and watching the photos, I think that you did extremely well with the choice of lodges, Kambaku overlaps the traversing rights of Motswari plus additional ones.

[FlyTraveler]

Thanks so much for posting the photographs. Think we will go for the trip and add one night extra at Ol Kinyei as you suggest. Hope we get to see the migration in Tanzania or there. Pen

We did not see the migration in Ol Kinyei or Naboisho conservancies, we saw it in Mara (that was in the beginning of August). I would suggest that you also book a couple of nights somewhere inside Masai Mara NP, just to enhance the probability of seeing a river crossing. You can ask Gamewatchers to book your flight back to Nairobi at a later date and from a different airstrip (they did this for us), would have to work out the logistics for the transfer between camps both with the Mara camp and Gamewatchers. In our case the latter left us at Ol Seki airstrip in Naboisho (together with their other guests, who were leaving for Nairobi) and a driver from the Mara camp waited for us there.

[penolva]

 

Thanks so much for posting the photographs. Think we will go for the trip and add one night extra at Ol Kinyei as you suggest. Hope we get to see the migration in Tanzania or there. Pen

We did not see the migration in Ol Kinyei or Naboisho conservancies, we saw it in Mara (that was in the beginning of August). I would suggest that you also book a couple of nights somewhere inside Masai Mara NP, just to enhance the probability of seeing a river crossing. You can ask Gamewatchers to book your flight back to Nairobi at a later date and from a different airstrip (they did this for us), would have to work out the logistics for the transfer between camps both with the Mara camp and Gamewatchers. In our case the latter left us at Ol Seki airstrip in Naboisho (together with their other guests, who were leaving for Nairobi) and a driver from the Mara camp waited for us there.

 

You mentioned you went out into the Mara with Gamewatchers? was there no migration in that area on that day? How far was the Brian Freeman camp from Gamewatchers. If we were to go onto there for 3

nights as you did do you remember how much it was per night at Brian's camp? Thanks again Pen

[Soukous]

not sure how I came to this TR so late.

Love the cheetahs in posts #61 and #74

love the leopard and the black rhino too

[FlyTraveler]

 

 

Thanks so much for posting the photographs. Think we will go for the trip and add one night extra at Ol Kinyei as you suggest. Hope we get to see the migration in Tanzania or there. Pen

We did not see the migration in Ol Kinyei or Naboisho conservancies, we saw it in Mara (that was in the beginning of August). I would suggest that you also book a couple of nights somewhere inside Masai Mara NP, just to enhance the probability of seeing a river crossing. You can ask Gamewatchers to book your flight back to Nairobi at a later date and from a different airstrip (they did this for us), would have to work out the logistics for the transfer between camps both with the Mara camp and Gamewatchers. In our case the latter left us at Ol Seki airstrip in Naboisho (together with their other guests, who were leaving for Nairobi) and a driver from the Mara camp waited for us there.

 

You mentioned you went out into the Mara with Gamewatchers? was there no migration in that area on that day? How far was the Brian Freeman camp from Gamewatchers. If we were to go onto there for 3

nights as you did do you remember how much it was per night at Brian's camp? Thanks again Pen

 

We went to Mara with Gamewatchers and saw many migrating wildebeest and zebras, also were also lucky to witness a river crossing (it was extremely crowded along the riverbed, though), I would assume that many people who go to Mara just for one day do not see a river crossing, therefore it might be a good idea to stay in Mara for couple of days.

 

Brian Freeman's camp in central Mara was about an hour and a half drive from Ol Seki airstrip in Naboisho (Gamewatchers dropped us there). Brian did not charge us for the transfer. We paid 400 dollars p.p.p.n. at Freeman Safaris camp for all inclusive package, spirits wines and beer also included, large ensuite tents. Brian also gave us a private vehicle (with unlimited time in the reserve during daylight) without prior arrangements at no extra charges (this might be due to inability to combine us with other guests).

[penolva]

Thanks for the info. I will email Brian for a quote. Pen

[ZaminOz]

@@FlyTraveler

What a fantastic trip report and photos! Thanks for posting it.

[Super LEEDS]

Great report @@FlyTraveler. Good points about how cost effective SA is too, I'm going through the same process now, weighing up Kenya and the Kruger.

Edited March 10, 2014 by Super LEEDS

[anthracosaur]

@FlyTraveler Really nice trip report. You have me thinking about Kenya for our next trip, or Botswana, or Zambia, or Southern Tanzania.....

[FlyTraveler]

@FlyTraveler Really nice trip report. You have me thinking about Kenya for our next trip, or Botswana, or Zambia, or Southern Tanzania.....

 

Thanks for the nice comment. Regarding the hesitation between different parks - I know what you mean, can not help much with advise, though, due to very limited safari experience...

[madaboutcheetah]

Hi @@FlyTraveler - just caught up with your report over the weekend ........ What a lovely trip! and great description to go with all the images ......... The Brian Freeman camp looks like one of the best kept secrets in the Mara!!! Were they able to keep away from the tourists and vehicle jams?

 

Ol Kinyei is on my list of places I need to get to ......... Thank You!!!

[FlyTraveler]

Hi @@FlyTraveler - just caught up with your report over the weekend ........ What a lovely trip! and great description to go with all the images ......... The Brian Freeman camp looks like one of the best kept secrets in the Mara!!! Were they able to keep away from the tourists and vehicle jams?

 

Ol Kinyei is on my list of places I need to get to ......... Thank You!!!

 

Thanks for the good words, @@madaboutcheetah, I really think that Brian Freeman camp is a hidden gem in Mara (not that I have something to compare to in Masai Mara proper). He runs a camp in Samburu, as well (have not been there, but the comments from the other guests in the Mara camp were exceptional).

 

Regarding keeping away from tourists - we had a vehicle for ourselves (without booking or paying extra for such) and a driver/guide and we had a choice to go anywhere as far, as we are back in camp before dark. Sometimes we would drive for almost two hours without seeing another vehicle, in other cases there will be several vehicles at a sighting (a normal situation for Mara in August). Our requests to the driver/guide were regarding type of animals or activities we wanted to see (leopard, black rhino, river crossing etc.). Avoiding other tourists was not our priority at the moment.

 

Ol Kyniey offered a bit less action, but it was a lot more intimate experience, we would sometimes see only another Gamewatchers vehicle on a game drive. We observed 4 cheetah brothers and a resident lion pride with cubs without a presence of other vehicles on two occasions (for two full days, the other two we went on full day game drives to Mara with Gamewatchers). I have heard that Olare Orok is even more productive, can not compare, though (we just passed via OO on our way back from Mara).

[madaboutcheetah]

Thanks for the info - You truly had great viewing!!!