Kichaka Expeditions & First Walking Safari Sept. 2013

[appleblossom]

So sorry to read about your brother. Now I understand your words about coming back from a fantastic holiday to face illness at home.

Your brother. as we are, are taken with your courage to put together this wonderful trip report at a fraught time for you. It may actually provide you with a calming platform to help you handle your situation. You can re-live some extraordinary memories by writing them down and reading them out to your brother. At the same time this may very well be something that aids his recovery and at the very least is making him happy. It must also be a comfort to know that the world of ST'ers is behind you, encouraging you and sending their wishes and support.

[twaffle]

My goodness, you have excelled with the story telling here, I am really enjoying the feeling of being in the bush. How liberating it would be, to just be walking and looking and smelling and feeling. I wouldn't be taking a great big camera either. Very glad that you can be quiet when asked by your guide, it isn't always that way.

 

So sorry to hear about your brother, how dreadfully worrying for you. If the writing helps to distract you, then we are more than happy to be the recipients.

[PCNW]

Oh Graceland such an exciting trip and report. I could feel your emotions while reading. Really good stuff here. Hoping your brother will get some pleasure out of it too.

[graceland]

Wow- good job catching that leopard. Was that with the iPhone? You must have been quick. I've seen a few leopards on walks and they usually appear and disappear so quickly you barely even know it's a leopard.

@@stokeygirl, the leopard had been in a tree - we observed it for quite a while from a ways back, and started slowly doing "the sneak"- so Jud snuck a photo with the p&s he had in his pocket for me which was full of dust - I cant believe he got the shot...Not me; I am too busy watching; not wanting to miss anything.. I was hoping he'd use the Gopro and film it...but he only had two hands and grabbed that one first. Turned out ok!

Of course we missed a bunch too. Not wanting to make noise it is hard to fiddle around and make clicking sounds!

 

More to come...soon;

and thank you EVERYONE for the encouragment and kindness towards my brother.

 

I could not log on here this am; must be the hospital's wireless...found a java shop, as I must slip out to write my report!

 

Next up.....fly-camping and a drive through the wild.

[wilddog]

Loving this............... your delight at getting your feet on the ground shines through; game drives will never be the same again.

Your sightings and images are great too; and loading them in the thread now seems to be 'easy peasy' for you now. Not sure if that UK phrase has travelled across the Atlantic, but I think you 'get my drift'!

Thanks for it all so far and I look forward to the next instalment.

[FlyTraveler]

@@graceland

 

Thanks for the wonderful report and photos! This is something very unique, at least I've never heard of a 7 days walking expedition in Ruaha. Totally amazing experience!

[graceland]

Moli not only excels at walking, but he is quite the stargazer; owning a computerized high image reflecting telescope with a HUGE can attached that allows in more light that reflects off a mirror (I stopped listening to details--I wanted to see!) This telescope finds where HE is located; and knows the configuration of stars above - allowing you into yet another wild world - the sky.

I cannot believe I actually saw rings around Saturn! And the moon - it looked fake - like someone had painted it for us in great detail and we just stepped into the painting. It took our breath away. You could spend hours looking at every star and planet in detail; and I think Moli did - as we went off to bed (5:15 wakeup!) we could hear him out in the dry river bed tweaking this and that, telling us the next morning he got it right - so tonight even more!!

 

I'd be excited at that; however today was the LONG day in our 5 days of walking. We were leaving Lunda to get to the fly-camp which was positioned pretty far out; we ended up walking 11 miles. I felt every step of the last 2 for sure! Tuskers taste very good a the end of a L-O-N-G walk in 38C temps!

 

We started out upbeat and eager, as Moli had never walked this area either; he knew where he wanted the camp to be set up; they had found that with the car weeks earlier; however he had not really walked to it. Part of it he discoverd with another guest but because of their short time (3, 4 nights vs. 7 - they cut it short.) So we were going to find the camp come hell or high water. Well not - because the water was dried up. That was unfortunate and I think unplanned as it did interfere with some game that we had hoped had not left the area.

 

Nevertheless, we were quite willing to be explorers with Moli and Doudee and left camp smiling and in the cool of the morning. This turned out to be the longest day of my life, but also one of the most satisying. And emotional.

 

 

 

First we visited an outcropping of rocks that Moli had discovered earlier; along with an idea a leopard would be nearby. Sure enough as we climb onto the rocks, he sees way off in the distance one in a tree. Way off- as I had trouble even with Svarowskis. Lucky me - I just go along with most game plans and if we could sneak up, I'd be happy; if not I'd enjoy the attempt. Of course the heart starts beating, the breath comes faster and somewhere in the back of the head a thought attempts a logical distruption - what the hell are we doing!

 

 

Knowing how they run, we took a tactic to wind around and hope (with the help of the ashbag on his hip) to never alert him to our presence. This was chancy as perhaps there were others; however he'd seen a loner and felt it was this cat. Being quiet (once again) I was trying to figure out how I'd ever record this one. Fortunately I had given Jud my zoom p&s, I had my iphone and somewhere was the GoPro...if we could get them out without making a sound, it'd be gold. But I was very hesitant to make any noise as I did not want to see a blur of tale run by. Of course I still remembered all of Moli's stories earlier of crazy tourists he take out on walks while at Jongomero - who thought nothing of wandering off, of trying to get too close for the "shot" - ignoring all safety rules...an I did not want to be sent back to camp! He would do that, and as a new student I wanted an A+!

 

We did manage a decent attempt and in close enough range as it sauntered down the tree - we feel not knowing we were actually there - but looking for something so it "trotted off" as I called it and we did get one fuzzy shot which I posted earlier. Actually the cat was probably going for the water hole as it was the last one we'd see all day!

 

It was a thrill to be on foot; I agree with Wildog and others that it does change your safari life. I am glad though I still maintained a sense of fear - in order to keep me safe, as I can see how others who may have a reckless sense about them would not make good safari walkers! Just attempting to get closer, rather than having a driver pull up and turn a key off creates a sense that is quite difficult to convey - all the senses are alert; maintaining stillness is an art; and to see an animal in their habitat who does NOT see you brings you so emotionally closer to the experience. Of course I still love my wild vehicle rides; but I realize I am being "taken to their world; here, I loved just being a guest,taking a peek into their

existence.

 

Naturally with me along, there WILL be occasions....on this occasion- in my excitement I am still looking up - hoping for more cats, and stumble and fall. Well rather it be now after leopard leaves the area, rather than still under that tree nearby! I get up, brush myself off and say..well it had to happen sooner or later. Moli carries a med kit but all I needed was a drink of water and a bandaid for a bit of bleeding. I had a proud cut to remind me of the morning.

 

We still had about 6 or so hours ahead of us. Thank goodness I did not know that. Winding in and out of the brush; stopping to listen, the natural way of covering distance. Walk, look, listen...birds flew by; we'd stop and chat about them (never able to catch a snap) and the day of" Fifty Shades Of Pooh." I had never in my life seen so much "poo" and hear so many descriptions of the how, why, when,and who....My head was spinning at the info Moli knew about poo.... Apparently it is a tracker's dream along with tracks!! DUH!

No snaps of that but I was sure I took some of the MIDDENS - a territorial dump in the woods. Something I can pass along as cocktail chit chat.

 

Seeing hundreds of impala again today, but with such a new appreciation. More elephants; however this herd were not happily grazing so we stopped, waited and changed direction..oh no, will this add to our hours?...is there a shortcut?

 

No really time flew and this was definitely an exploration day to see what if anything was in this area. We were happily along as visitors to this wild kingdom and no matter what we had seen or had not seen, we did not forget the foraging through virgin territory with our guide and ranger. Sometimes an experience is not how much you did but the quality. We talked about what Kichaka could do way out here; how many other areas - most with water that Moli could get access to; and the challenges of starting up an "Adventure Expedition Company" in the middle of nowhere. We found it enticing; others won't - but it is an opportunity, and hopefully more water will come into the east Lunda area and not be drying up so quickly as it was mid-Sept. The plant life, the trees, the terrain, the sky...how can someone not love this.

 

(I guess I was supposed to label these pics as I uploaded -and cut and paste but I changed my technique as sitting with my brother...just typing as I go - still lots to learn - next time,maybe!)

 

Starting off ---

 

Where the Hell are We?

And Jud's torn every pair of pants!

After the Fall!

 

Arrival at Fly camp; We Made it!!!

and the tents - quite spacious

[graceland]

@@graceland

 

Thanks for the wonderful report and photos! This is something very unique, at least I've never heard of a 7 days walking expedition in Ruaha. Totally amazing experience!

Thank you @@FlyTraveler...I actually never thought I'd even do a walk..somehow the Tr's on ST inspired me; why fly to Africa for 3, when you can go for 7! We wished we had 10 (and we could have, but did not realize it at the time, and I was at first worried about 7!) even when there were days with no photo ops - game very skittish; and I had no desire to carry a camera in the heat and long distances. But happy to share what I have, and yes we'd go back to Ruaha as we truly felt wild Afica.

This is a brand new expedition company, BTW....from a long standing guide in the area. We heard about it, booked it and 2 months later we were back on the continent we love.

Thanks for reading along!

[graceland]

@@graceland

 

Thanks for the wonderful report and photos! This is something very unique, at least I've never heard of a 7 days walking expedition in Ruaha. Totally amazing experience!

Whoops sorry double post..tired

need a walk

Edited October 8, 2013 by graceland

[inyathi]

I've really been looking forward to this report and finding out how you got as Ruaha is one of my favourite national parks in Africa so I’m really enjoying reading this.

 

I have once many years ago driven a long way towards Lunda on a full day’s game drive though I’m not sure how far we got and we were only able to stay in the area quite briefly so I’m enjoying reading this.

 

I’m also interested that you didn’t really encounter any tsetse flies; I can assure you that if you go back and drive up to Mpululu you won’t be so lucky. Once you get right up on to the top of escarpment before too long you enter the miombo, most of the first half of the drive to Mpululu is solid miombo woodland and the tsetses are terrible until you get out the other side this is one reason why not many people go up there.

 

Why did you bring a ranger isn't Moli a armed guide.

Michael.

 

In all Tanzanian National Parks where there’s dangerous game you have to be accompanied by a TANAPA ranger when walking irrespective of the fact that your guide is armed.

 

I hope you don’t mind too much but I’m afraid I do have to point out two mistakes in your very first post.

 

RUAHA:

For those few folks (me included) who knew very little about Ruaha, it is very interesting as it is a transition zone between S. Africa and E Africa's flora and fauna overlap. The park covers about 20,000 plus sq.km and it the second largest national park in Tanzania. The park including the game reserves cover approximately 45,000 sq km.

 

The figures quoted may be correct but Ruaha is no longer the second largest park in Tanzania the Serengeti at only 14,750 km² is, since the former Usangu Game Reserve was incorporated into Ruaha NP in 2006 the park is now the largest national park in Tanzania. Unfortunately nearly all maps of Tanzania’s parks on the web show the old boundaries of the park and many websites still state that Ruaha is the second largest Park. So you can be entirely forgiven for this mistake.

 

But I won’t forgive you so quickly for your next one, in Africa bull buffalos can be grumpy beasts at the best of times but the one thing that is guaranteed to really annoy one (well this one at least) is to call him a water buffalo.

 

Ruaha is home to a variety of animals including Grant's Gazelle, Lesser Kudu, Striped Hyenas, Sable,Roan, Water Buffalo and a very healthy population of herds of elephants. Wild dogs are known to be in certain areas, though we saw none in seven days - more likely in Sealous And of course lions! Lots of lions near the buffalos!

 

The water buffalo is an entirely different species that in the wild only occurs in tropical Asia, a small population of feral water buffalos occurs in northern Tunisia and there are domestic water buffalos in Egypt but otherwise as far as I know there are no water buffalos in Africa. So if you see a buffalo anywhere in sub-Saharan Africa it’s not a water buffalo.

 

Having got that off my chest I shall now return to peacefully chewing the cud under a nice shady pod mahogany tree on the banks of the Great Ruaha and allow you to carry on with your otherwise excellent report.

 

Great shot of a leopard, it's not easy to get a shot as good as that when you're on foot

 

It looks like it was a great experience and Ruaha and Moli really delivered for you, I'm sure I will enjoy reading about the rest of your adventure so long as you promise never to call me a water buffalo again.

[Game Warden]

But they saw water buffalo at the new Virgin camp in the Mara...

[graceland]

I've really been looking forward to this report and finding out how you got as Ruaha is one of my favourite national parks in Africa so Im really enjoying reading this.

 

I have once many years ago driven a long way towards Lunda on a full days game drive though Im not sure how far we got and we were only able to stay in the area quite briefly so Im enjoying reading this.

 

Im also interested that you didnt really encounter any tsetse flies; I can assure you that if you go back and drive up to Mpululu you wont be so lucky. Once you get right up on to the top of escarpment before too long you enter the miombo, most of the first half of the drive to Mpululu is solid miombo woodland and the tsetses are terrible until you get out the other side this is one reason why not many people go up there.

 

Why did you bring a ranger isn't Moli a armed guide.

 

Michael.

In all Tanzanian National Parks where theres dangerous game you have to be accompanied by a TANAPA ranger when walking irrespective of the fact that your guide is armed.

 

I hope you dont mind too much but Im afraid I do have to point out two mistakes in your very first post.

 

RUAHA:

 

For those few folks (me included) who knew very little about Ruaha, it is very interesting as it is a transition zone between S. Africa and E Africa's flora and fauna overlap. The park covers about 20,000 plus sq.km and it the second largest national park in Tanzania. The park including the game reserves cover approximately 45,000 sq km.

The figures quoted may be correct but Ruaha is no longer the second largest park in Tanzania the Serengeti at only 14,750 km² is, since the former Usangu Game Reserve was incorporated into Ruaha NP in 2006 the park is now the largest national park in Tanzania. Unfortunately nearly all maps of Tanzanias parks on the web show the old boundaries of the park and many websites still state that Ruaha is the second largest Park. So you can be entirely forgiven for this mistake.

 

But I wont forgive you so quickly for your next one, in Africa bull buffalos can be grumpy beasts at the best of times but the one thing that is guaranteed to really annoy one (well this one at least) is to call him a water buffalo.

 

Ruaha is home to a variety of animals including Grant's Gazelle, Lesser Kudu, Striped Hyenas, Sable,Roan, Water Buffalo and a very healthy population of herds of elephants. Wild dogs are known to be in certain areas, though we saw none in seven days - more likely in Sealous And of course lions! Lots of lions near the buffalos!

The water buffalo is an entirely different species that in the wild only occurs in tropical Asia, a small population of feral water buffalos occurs in northern Tunisia and there are domestic water buffalos in Egypt but otherwise as far as I know there are no water buffalos in Africa. So if you see a buffalo anywhere in sub-Saharan Africa its not a water buffalo.

 

Having got that off my chest I shall now return to peacefully chewing the cud under a nice shady pod mahogany tree on the banks of the Great Ruaha and allow you to carry on with your otherwise excellent report.

 

Great shot of a leopard, it's not easy to get a shot as good as that when you're on foot

 

It looks like it was a great experience and Ruaha and Moli really delivered for you, I'm sure I will enjoy reading about the rest of your adventure so long as you promise never to call me a water buffalo again.

 

 

Yikes How did I do that..oh I know..they were in water...LOL....and I have pics but since they were on our game drive (that is up next - I haven't posted them)....but will post the CAPE BUFFALO I saw with great relief that he is not a WATER Buffalo.

 

And as far as the size of Ruaha, I believe ya.

And thanks for the heads up on Tsetses; Moli hates them too so I better warn him about his plans for Mpululu

[inyathi]

Thanks @@graceland, all is now forgiven

 

Most people going up on to the escarpment wouldn’t be going all the way to Mpululu or camping up there, they’d be doing it as a day trip most likely from Mwagusi Camp. While the view from the edge of the escarpment back down over Kimirimatonge Hill and the river is spectacular and there is a chance of finding sable it is a long way to go and once you’re actually in the miombo you won’t see very much game though there are some good miombo birds. So for most people if they’re not birders it’s not really worth going up just to get eaten alive by tsetses. However once you get on beyond the miombo closer to Mpululu and the Mzombe River it becomes more open again, you start to see a few more animals in some of the little narrow mbugas (wet grassy valleys/floodplains or vleis) and the tstetses aren’t nearly so bad. So once you get to that area you should be fine it’s just the getting there that’s the problem so I wouldn't think Moli need worry too much after all I assume he's probably been up there before.

[graceland]

Thanks @@graceland, all is now forgiven

 

Most people going up on to the escarpment wouldn’t be going all the way to Mpululu or camping up there, they’d be doing it as a day trip most likely from Mwagusi Camp. While the view from the edge of the escarpment back down over Kimirimatonge Hill and the river is spectacular and there is a chance of finding sable it is a long way to go and once you’re actually in the miombo you won’t see very much game though there are some good miombo birds. So for most people if they’re not birders it’s not really worth going up just to get eaten alive by tsetses. However once you get on beyond the miombo closer to Mpululu and the Mzombe River it becomes more open again, you start to see a few more animals in some of the little narrow mbugas (wet grassy valleys/floodplains or vleis) and the tstetses aren’t nearly so bad. So once you get to that area you should be fine it’s just the getting there that’s the problem so I wouldn't think Moli need worry too much after all I assume he's probably been up there before.

From what Moli told us that is the very area he wants to place a second "Base Camp" so he can have one in Lunda and one near Mpululu...both areas out of reach of the lodges' game drives (but of course I've not been that far out; so don't know). We are probably returning when he does accomplish that ~ as we enjoy the adventure of searching along with him!

 

I do know when we did our day long game drive (report coming up) he mentioned he was surprised that the vehicles had ventured as far from Mwagusi River as they had towards Little Serengeti. I've not been to the areas where the lodges are located (this was my first trip to Ruaha, or Tanzania for that matter so I don't know how "far" he was talking about.

 

A great place for sure. I would love to see it when the river is flowing. We packed (well we didn't - they did!) up fly-camp and moved back to Lunda as it was so terribly dry after that very long day...don't tell anyone; it is coming up in my report.

I would think July-Aug may have been better for us game wise (but of course he did not open until Aug this year) unless the river issues improve. Nevertheless we loved the adventure.

[graceland]

On 10/8/2013 at 11:03 PM, Paolo said:

Also I think that Jongomero can be quite tsestses infested at times, so he (Moli) must be used to it?

 

@@inyathi

 

Did you camp at Mpululu?

 

Around 2005/2006 I was studying a trip with a mobile camp, using one campsite along the Mwagusi river and one at Mpululu (I do not recall whether a third stop was contemplated). My agent had lived in Ruaha for a few years, and suggested a few nights at Mpululu.

 

Those plans never materialized and I decided to go back to Katavi with Nomad's mobile camp instead.

 

Moli mentioned them several times and-- said they were the bane of his existence at Jongo!

 

He was happy to leave them behind so I doubt he'd be looking in any infested areas to camp. He had a good laugh at my stash of tsetse fly preparations!

 

He is really into looking into Mpululu - he actually sent us an email offering that area;we kept to the original plan and thought it'd be a good opportunity to go back!

Looking foward to it!

Edited December 18, 2018 by wilddog

[AKR1]

@@graceland

Just catching up on your wonderful trip report. Boy you are adventurous. A serious walking safari in wild Ruaha. Talk about off the beaten path. Very impressed with what you accomplished and experienced. Thanks for all the details.

[pault]

Great photos - the wounded soldiers ones made me laugh a lot, and they are perfect right where they are - after the corresponding story. And your description of the thrill of walking and B- students who can't stay still and behave (that might be me) is excellent.

 

And when you get Inyathi excited about a trip report, you know you've done something interesting.

[Kitsafari]

finally catching time to read up this TR. hats off to you @@graceland for this arduous undertaking. the TR is so informative and so emotive - i can feel that you had a such a blast. best wishes to your brother on his surgery. take care of yourself as well.

[graceland]

Great photos - the wounded soldiers ones made me laugh a lot, and they are perfect right where they are - after the corresponding story. And your description of the thrill of walking and B- students who can't stay still and behave (that might be me) is excellent.

 

And when you get Inyathi excited about a trip report, you know you've done something interesting.

 

 

@@graceland

Just catching up on your wonderful trip report. Boy you are adventurous. A serious walking safari in wild Ruaha. Talk about off the beaten path. Very impressed with what you accomplished and experienced. Thanks for all the details.

Thanks so much; coming from you all i am very humbled--being so new on the safari circuit - just 4 under my safarihat!

 

Yes it was an adventure, off the beaten path. No way I'd refuse a trip to Africa but was was demanding my plunge pool...oh I had one!! The Ruaha was about 3ft deep and very cool and plungable. One of Moli's secret sundown spots. Sit in the river, hand over a beer and watch a sunset. What an advert for Kichaka!

 

@KitsSafari...Thank you for reading along; and the wishes for my brother. He has a long road ahead, but I try to make him laugh....pretty easy with the things I do. Like just put one foot in front of the other when hiking an unknown path. Ignorance is bliss in my mind. But truthfully it was difficult only because of the heat and maybe the distances( (!) but Moli and Doudee made it fun, exciting and of course, safe.

 

And the camp was bliss. I could spend a summer in his camp. Well worth walking to it every day!

 

Noelle and I "high fiving" a successful day! She is such an asset to the Kichaka experience. She deserves as much credit as Moli!

[africapurohit]

@@graceland this report will inspire many hesitant safari goers to start walking. You could easily market some special "walking safari" shoes or something! Unfortunately, I'll have to wait 15 more years before my youngest is allowed to walk in Ruaha - but at least he's started walking. But does give me an incentive to fit and healthy enough for when the time comes.

[TonyQ]

@@graceland

Fantastic report! Your writing really conveys what it is like to be walking in the bush, all senses working. I think the pictures illustrate it really well. I love the elephants, and of course the leopard - going so well with the text which describes the experience. It was certainly more demanding walking than we did in Zambia and much more exploratory.

 

It sounds like a great experience, so thank you for sharing it at a difficult personal time

[graceland]

@@graceland

 

Whenever you have got time, I sent you a PM Yesterday.

Got it!!

 

I hope it was an invite to accompany you and Twaffle on safari!

[graceland]

@@graceland this report will inspire many hesitant safari goers to start walking. You could easily market some special "walking safari" shoes or something! Unfortunately, I'll have to wait 15 more years before my youngest is allowed to walk in Ruaha - but at least he's started walking. But does give me an incentive to fit and healthy enough for when the time comes.

 

@@graceland

Fantastic report! Your writing really conveys what it is like to be walking in the bush, all senses working. I think the pictures illustrate it really well. I love the elephants, and of course the leopard - going so well with the text which describes the experience. It was certainly more demanding walking than we did in Zambia and much more exploratory.

 

It sounds like a great experience, so thank you for sharing it at a difficult personal time

Thanks to you both for following along; @AfricaPurohit; I do hope walks are in your future with the kids..I believe Moli takes them at 16; since it is private - only family members, or friends, he is very accommodating - don't dare wear sandals as I've seen in pics..the feet will be torn to pieces in Ruaha - the terrian is so different from Zambia...

 

@@TonyQ, we did see so many elephants (and hundreds of impalas) - they got me through the times when I wondered where were we; and what am I doing here (?) breaking branches, slipping in and out of deep brush - stumbling along - and then WOW - the ellies, so quiet and relaxed would be so nearby! I really got to appreciate those lovely ballerina style impalas that were everywhere and most vehicles just drive by them... And, the birds...which unfortunately not prepared to photograph, but in my thoughts - so beaufiful. I did find not carrying a camera (except for writing a TR) really gave me more focus on the moments.

 

Both of us knew from the start it'd be quite different from Zambia...not as many relaxed animals accustomed to walkers, and areas unknown to even Moli. That appealed to us and since we plan on returning, we obviously loved it...It certainly was an experience.

 

And at the end of every day - yet another experience - this time "gourmet" under the stars in a river bed or under the trees, with Noelle's incredible prepartions of the day, a great bottle of wine - reliving the day; laughing and telling stories. It was wonderful!

 

Reliving this experience after coming home to much stress and health issues in the family has really been a positive. I had lost the "glow of safari" and this is helping me recapture it! As well as keeping me very occupied when I have no control over the issues at hand!

[graceland]

We were not always out only walking during day light hours, but times it seems day just seamlessly fell into night; days were not counted; rather it was like one long 24 hrs.. -then 36 - at 48- on and on; and we just woke up when told and fell asleep when tired every evening. We never thought,"oh no another wakeup and its' dark!".in fact we wished we were not tired so it would just continue on and on. It was a dreamscape - of sun and baked earth, evening stars and planets - birds, and trees; elephants and zebras, giraffes and impalas; and when lucky a few lions for good luck. It was heaven. I did not want to return to reality.

 

I felt time stopped for a wee -in this hyper techie/twitter/facebook/skyping/apple/microsoft/ipad existence of an overstessed world we exist in; it was as if we were filming a movie so people would know what the "good ole days" were like.

 

Oh, with an exception -

 

Me after a long days' outing, plugging in my "Jawbone Up" to my iPhone that kept track of my steps for the day. Yes I was curious to know everyday - and compared it with Moli's GPS count of the day.

 

 

 

 

 

And, we actually did leave camp in the amazing overland truck that Moli had converted. It was super outfitted, and if we had thrown sleeping bags in it, we could have probably gone further out with the ref rig. and Moli's grill.

 

Out of 7 nights we went out on 4 evenings, the other 3 nights doing things in camp and one just me staying in camp as I honestly was just tired - and with no real roads I was protecting my back from the deep sand they would be driving through. Unfortunately, THAT night I missed the THREE cheetahs seen with the magical night vision binos; but was happy to hear about it at their late return. Apparently they missed Moli's sparse markings to locate the camp and drove around in circles; but having six other fellows to keep me company was quite delightful as they entertained me with stories of their lives growing up. And practiced their English. It was quite humorous as I tried to explain everyone in the USA do not talk alike; we have accents and drawlsdifferent areas, etc. Alfayo, who was one of two "waiters" looked at me honestly and remarked, I DO NOT understand you. meaning my "southern drawl". Well I cracked up and said, yes, you pronounce your english much better than I do! Big Smiles all around.

 

Abdul and Alfayo, our waiters

 

 

Moli hires his camp staff through a college in Iringa for upcoming graduates in the hospitality industry. He chose quite well - as well as his own mechanic for the three trucks always in camp. So I was well tended and they were well feted with cheetah sightings.

 

On one evening night drive to our special sundowner spot.we came across a larger herd of ellies. They were not too pleased (as most) to see a vehicle in their midsts; and let us know right away that we were on their land.

 

Evening Drive with Unhappy Ellies....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also were fortunate to find Roan, who were not bothered in the least by us and seemed a bit curious by their first vehicle sighting

 

 

and of course the ever present impala...

 

 

 

After two nights in Flycamp, with the dryness of the river and not many spottings, we decided to head back to Lunda and base camp from where we began. Noelle and her team pack up the Flycamp in the truck

and made their way back to where we started. We were not going to "backtrack" walking so we would be picked up when Moli calledfinding their way via GPS. That was a secure feeling

 

 

But all went well; we were back in those lovely tents (the LUX ones, though flytents were much nicer than I expected) and another exceptional gourmet meal by Noelle and her sous chef Christian.

 

 

 

OK. I admit. I did not write down every bird or animal I saw. I never take many notes on safari. But I did sit down with Noelle and write down every single dish she served..from her starters (my fans) to her mains - her veggies, her salads, and at our request no dessert (we don't do sugar) though neither do they --so one less thing to worry about and we could have wine for dessert.

 

I even brought home recipes from the bush, but as yet I have not made one! My eyes are always bigger than my stomach; however I did buy some South African wine. I do have my priorities.

 

After arriving on a Saturday and it was now Thursday, we decided to do an all day game drive - hours back to almost where we started that Saturday's arrival.

 

Noelle is our driver and Moli our tracker.....(we'e in back with Tuskers....ah love this life)

 

 

We pass time spotting this and that - pretty long drive but quite enjoyable

 

 

 

Herd of Buffalos

 

 

 

 

 

We come upon a few vechicles from the lodges/camps around the active Ruaha park area...Moli and Noelle know all the guides so we are stopping to catch up. They have not seen Moli since starting up Kichaka - and they've not seen his vehicle. Everyone was so happy for he and Noelle and we enjoyed in the celebratory buzz....Apparently a call had come out a leopard was in the area, but we had heard from Owen that there were lions....a pride, so instead of waiting for the leopard to come out of the brush....

 

 

we leave the humans behind (the poor guide whose client kept saying, YOU promised me a leopard over and over and over and over....)

 

and head out to find Owen's lions - we've got all day.....the others don't

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We enjoy our interaction with humans and lions, but we are all anxious to get back to our paradise!

[Sangeeta]

@@graceland - you've become a fine story-teller. Your Bots report was charming and enthusiastic and really a lot of fun to read, but this one is a keeper. It is deceptively thoughtful and a real sense of discovery shines through your words. I am now fully ready to jump on a plane and join Moli & Noelle and their crew in Ruaha A real testament both to the originality of their new venture and to your talents as a raconteur.

Chapeau and shabaash!