Kichaka Expeditions & First Walking Safari Sept. 2013

[graceland]

OH NO.....WHat happend to "saved content" i just lost half my story tonight.....oh well......tomorrow is another day and mabye I wll remember it.

I was trying to upload one pic

and wham it all went Kaboom....

 

OH well short story @sangetta,thank you so for your encouragment and words. We are so close ric-nova- compared to everyone else we must get together!

 

The rest has to wait.

Thank you for giving me the will to continue

 

 

Oh wait, I loved being describred as a roncateur - but I do have to google it...--my mother just said Iwas chatty.

Maybe its something more mysterious!

 

Lets make it work;I always take the train to NOVA!

thanks again. I feel so intimitated by the real safari/photo experts here; this,means so much ~ and now when I walke into a snobby cocktail party and asked what I do (as they always ask)I can just say I am a published story teller -on Safaritalk, check it out!

Edited October 11, 2013 by graceland

[stokeygirl]

Those lions look distinctly like the ones that featured heavily in my report- were there 4 cubs?

[ZaminOz]

@@graceland

A true safari! Fantastic writing, and images that show how difficult it is to photograph truly wild game.

[Treepol]

What a safari adventure with discovery and exploration woven into every day.

 

The camp looks wonderfully comfortable, even with bush waiters. Good to see photos of Noelle looking so happy, I met her during her short time at Ruaha River Lodge in 2008.

[graceland]

Those lions look distinctly like the ones that featured heavily in my report- were there 4 cubs?

@@stokeygirl, we only saw these guys HOWEVER I believe there was a second group in another scrubby brush - but there were so many vehicles (4-5!) that we could not get over there so we left... They probably left that wonderful sand river to hide out!

 

Yes we were getting an attitude towards cars after being alone all week

 

[graceland]

@@graceland

A true safari! Fantastic writing, and images that show how difficult it is to photograph truly wild game.

Thank you Zamin - I have a hard time photographing everything;(and too lazy to carry the equipment) and yes, wild game proves it does indeed take talent and lots of practice. That's why you don't see "Wildlife Photographer" under my avatar; I'm still just a late comer to the safari life who fell hard and fast for it!

 

WHY didn't anyone tell me 20 years ago I belonged on safari!

 

 

But happy I could get the excitement of the adventure with Moli and Noelle across even without tons of pics. I owe my trip to @Stokeygirl; she suggested it!

[graceland]

What a safari adventure with discovery and exploration woven into every day.

 

The camp looks wonderfully comfortable, even with bush waiters. Good to see photos of Noelle looking so happy, I met her during her short time at Ruaha River Lodge in 2008.

@@Treepol, she told me stories of working at Ruaha River Lodge in the beginning before moving over to Jongomero.

 

Much happier these days in her new office -

 

[graceland]

TIME TO SAY GOODBYE

Fortunately for us with an Africa Travel Resource "glitch", we had another full day with Moli and Noelle; so instead of rushing to catch the 11:30 Coastal to Ras Katuni (where we headed next on the Indian Ocean south of DAR) we could sleep in (we still work up at 6 - but enjoyed lying in the tent watching the sunrise - BLISS). ATR had booked us on the 4:30pm flight and at first I was a bit miffed at missing the day on the ocean; however Noelle assured me we'd not be sitting on air strip alone for hours but instead have another day with them. Divine.

A late wake up;of course the staff is up and buzzing about; and we are going to have another game drive on the way to Msembe. Moli was always in charge of cooking breakfast and once again a very happy Jud had his fresh eggs, bacon AND sausage…before we sadly had to leave the Lunda Base Camp that had been our home. I truly believe the longer you can stay in one place the more you become part of it. It sets in deep, and defines the experience with a bonding that one or two nights could never equal.

Packing up was easy - Kichaka does laundry every day ~ And washes your walking shoes, returning them dry. Amazing to me. I never did have an opportunity to observe (was never in camp!) but it is so helpful as we had muddy, grimy shoes every day. Bringing thongs is a must to wear to and from showers, dinner, etc. while your shoes are being "cared for". I threw my "Ras" wear - swimsuit/coverup/etc. on top of the duffle, looked around my "tented" home and said, "see you next year".

This was going to be difficult having spent 7 nights with the same staff; seeing us off in the morning with smiles, and welcoming us upon our return with cheers, cool towels, and cold drinks. We had spent so much time with Abdul, Alfayo, Saloom, Swabana (sp?), Christian, and the chief engineer/driver (whose name I neglected to memorize..sorry; but he was also a dear one). I enjoyed their happiness and smiling faces every day. Oh to live in the bush!

And of course, Doudie… the TANAPA ranger; my protector; my hand up and my elbow down. For two days he barely looked at us or spoke; on the third day I saw his wide delightful smile and I was hooked. He followed Moli- and I followed him; what a team. Jud behind me trying to take pics with the Go pro or phone. He was alert, aware, caring of me; and I am honored he was chosen to accompany us. My most memorable moment with Doudie was after the very LONG 6plus hr walk with my breathing labored, my gait unsteady, probably dehydrated; we arrive at camp. He turns to me and very carefully says his first words to me: "You Did Great; You are a Strong Woman"….I just hugged him, tears forming as I knew it really took gumption for him to speak to me, and with such sincerity. It meant the world to me. Truly.

We had to say goodbye to everyone and I knew it would be emotional; I still smile when I remember this awesome group of young men working so hard on our behalf.

Off we go once again on the bumpy, sandy roads heading towards the ranger station; this time bags thrown in the back; but another day in Ruaha! We head out and meet one of Moli's neighbors and friends who lives in Ruaha,testing the water of the Great Ruaha River. What an interesting woman she was; quite an artist too. Her name was Sue, I believe. Confirming what we had seen; a very early seasonal drying of the river. Sad for the game; and hopefully the powers that be can be convinced the park needs the water more than rice farmers.

Many drivers in cars stopped us to chat with Moli & Noelle - as happened when we got past Little Serengeti, finding the cars of several camps near Mdonya roaming for lions. We had so many visits that at times I failed to breathe in the air; to remember this amazing, untouched, barely discovered part of Ruaha. What will happen during the next year before my next visit?

We found Owen Prumm, a videographer friend of Moli's and known for his Nat Geo Lion Movies; he turned us onto a few lions lying about. He invited us to his "spot" and we spent time chatting and looking at the lions through the largest lens I've ever seen…needed an entire car to hold it!

We dropped Doudie off back at the Ranger station; I hated to see him go; he had taken to the joking and laughing(and my drawl) that is so much fun and brings joy to the walk. Again he hugged me and said, You are very strong..once again I tightened my arms around him. Tighter this time....

I put together a little montage of the the landscapes we viewed in Ruaha; the amazing talented Kichaka staff we photographed as we left; our gourmet lunch beautifully prepared by Moli and Noelle set by the river; toasting our great time together,(and unknown to us 4 lions watching us from under a tree!); our new friendship and the promise of another Expedition to come. We named it "The Hemingway" over lunch; a 10 day adventure through field and stream, river and bush and a few escarpments along the Mzombe River with Kichaka next year. Jud repeated for the hundredth time, OH MY GOD, SO GOOD!

As was Kichaka and Ruaha!

Thank you for riding along with me as I relived our adventure ~ warts and all...

Perhaps by my 5th or 6th TR, I'll have it down...practice..practice!! (with better photo skills)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=38K1Ivgt4JQ

Edited October 12, 2013 by graceland

[twaffle]

Absolutely brilliant Graceland. What an experience.

 

I just think you've snuck a kudu in there instead of a roan but a beautiful photo anyway.

[greenlanternjw]

Well ... Graceland just informed me that she finished her report and I should TRY to find it on ST!! As her husband and chambion of 32 years !!! I take these challenges with a grain of salt and flit to her report holding my breath. Its all true (of course) but the devil is in the details left out!!!

 

On the first night in our tent we both wondered how we would face the lions and terrifying things that go (AAAAAAAAHAAA) in the dark!! I awoke at around 2 am wondering how I was going to get to the LOO without being eaten and at the same time not wanting Graceland to know that I was afraid. Could I hold out until dawn? NO!!! I creeped out with my flashlight and successfully made it back to inform G that the coast was clear. She in turn stumbled into the darkness and afterwards had a sigh of relief "I MADE IT"!!

 

Being the champ that she always is, I found her outside the tent the next night at 3 am brushing her teeth!!!! I've tempted fate many times in my life (skydiving, mountain climbing, hang gliding) but never brushed my teeth with the lions crouching in the dark! Whow! Give it to that my love for being quite a trouper.

 

J

[graceland]

Absolutely brilliant Graceland. What an experience.

 

I just think you've snuck a kudu in there instead of a roan but a beautiful photo anyway.

Darn, and I thought I double checked..oh well it was a great sighting, and I do remember Noelle screaming out Kudu - I must have been thinking Bots where I did see Roan (and Sable - amazing!)

 

Thank you for following along! I am awaiting more from you..

 

Of course if Jud took me on more safaris, I'd be better able to immediately id the game! I blame this on him

[graceland]

Absolutely brilliant Graceland. What an experience.

 

I just think you've snuck a kudu in there instead of a roan but a beautiful photo anyway.

I meant to quote you in my response....making that imovie stressed me..

I need a sundowner NOW...

[TonyQ]

@@graceland

Thank you for a great report

I have really enjoyed reading it and seeing the photos (an the final video which is very clever)

I appears that this has been an incredible experience - a real expedition and a real adventure

[twaffle]

Well ... Graceland just informed me that she finished her report and I should TRY to find it on ST!! As her husband and chambion of 32 years !!! I take these challenges with a grain of salt and flit to her report holding my breath. Its all true (of course) but the devil is in the details left out!!!

 

On the first night in our tent we both wondered how we would face the lions and terrifying things that go (AAAAAAAAHAAA) in the dark!! I awoke at around 2 am wondering how I was going to get to the LOO without being eaten and at the same time not wanting Graceland to know that I was afraid. Could I hold out until dawn? NO!!! I creeped out with my flashlight and successfully made it back to inform G that the coast was clear. She in turn stumbled into the darkness and afterwards had a sigh of relief "I MADE IT"!!

 

Being the champ that she always is, I found her outside the tent the next night at 3 am brushing her teeth!!!! I've tempted fate many times in my life (skydiving, mountain climbing, hang gliding) but never brushed my teeth with the lions crouching in the dark! Whow! Give it to that my love for being quite a trouper.

 

J

I think we've all had that moment of "do I really need to leave the safety of the tent to go to the loo". You are both leading the way with this safari, well done.

[graceland]

@@graceland

Thank you for a great report

I have really enjoyed reading it and seeing the photos (an the final video which is very clever)

I appears that this has been an incredible experience - a real expedition and a real adventure

Thank you for following along @@TonyQ..

As well I have been enjoying your own adventures

This means we'll all be planning more!

[graceland]

I had doubts about going walking in the bush - out of my comfort zone of ziping about in cars; pleasantly surprised at how much I loved it; totally different than what I had imagined...probably the guide and his experience has quite a bit to do with it.

And now I have opened a whole new can of worms for our travels....many more places to explore on foot!

Thank you for your comments and always good advice.

 

And, your own report, along with Twaffle. Something to aspire to

Edited December 15, 2018 by kittykat23uk

[graceland]

 

Well ... Graceland just informed me that she finished her report and I should TRY to find it on ST!! As her husband and chambion of 32 years !!! I take these challenges with a grain of salt and flit to her report holding my breath. Its all true (of course) but the devil is in the details left out!!!

 

On the first night in our tent we both wondered how we would face the lions and terrifying things that go (AAAAAAAAHAAA) in the dark!! I awoke at around 2 am wondering how I was going to get to the LOO without being eaten and at the same time not wanting Graceland to know that I was afraid. Could I hold out until dawn? NO!!! I creeped out with my flashlight and successfully made it back to inform G that the coast was clear. She in turn stumbled into the darkness and afterwards had a sigh of relief "I MADE IT"!!

 

Being the champ that she always is, I found her outside the tent the next night at 3 am brushing her teeth!!!! I've tempted fate many times in my life (skydiving, mountain climbing, hang gliding) but never brushed my teeth with the lions crouching in the dark! Whow! Give it to that my love for being quite a trouper.

 

J

I think we've all had that moment of "do I really need to leave the safety of the tent to go to the loo". You are both leading the way with this safari, well done.

 

I had totally forgotten that night ~ all that worry for naught. Sometimes a gal just needs fresh breath in the middle of the night; lions or no...and it was a battery operated brush - I knew the noise would scare any animal away

[AKR1]

Beautiful, evocative trip report. You are both very fortunate to have a common love for Africa and safari. May you have many more safaris together.

[Paul B]

@gracland has given me permission to add a few thoughts. We were the second guests to stay with Kichaka Expeditions just before @@graceland and @greenlaternjw. Over the last 4 months or so @@graceland and I have exchanged many emails in the lead-up and completion to their most fantastic adventure. She has done such a masterful job of communicating the essence of what Moli and Noelle are trying to accomplish with Kichaka that I don't feel I can much more (does this fully absolve me from not writing a trip report? ).

 

The one thing I would like to expand on just a bit is the depth and commitment Moli and Noelle have made to the communities around the park. @@graceland mentioned the fact that all of the staff were hired from a tourist school in Iringa. For almost of these individuals this was their first job within the tourism industry. They are all local so their wages are spend in and used to support the villages around Ruaha. Moli and Noelle are so committed to training these individuals that at different times they actually live with Moli and Noelle on their farm in Iringa practicing the cooking and hospitality skills they will need to be successful in their new careers.

 

Another amazing gift back to Ruaha that Moli makes is the time he spends training the rangers within the park. For most of the month of November, he and a few other guides put on tracking and firearm handling classes for all of the rangers. He is so committed to doing this, Kichaka will shut down during this time.

 

While I don't post too often on ST (much more a lurker and PM'er), there seems to be a recurring theme of wanting to support operators that give back to local causes as a way to support the viability of tourism being a contributor to conservation. Kichaka Expeditions is a perfect example of this. The trickle down of the dollars you spend with them is significant (all of their supplies, vegetables, meats, etc. come from Iringa as well as wages paid to their staff).

 

However, I still believe much more can be done to give back to the local communities as a way to sustain conservation. I am always humbled while I am in Africa and swear I will do something more to support it's people and wildlife when I return home but it never seems to materialize. Things are so busy once I get back to work...does that sound familiar? 

 

Okay, I don't want to steal @@graceland wonderful trip report and break from ST protocol where Matt needs to move this so I will now take this discussion over the Lodge/Agent/Operator site.

Edited December 14, 2018 by Paul B

[graceland]

Beautiful, evocative trip report. You are both very fortunate to have a common love for Africa and safari. May you have many more safaris together.

Thanks you for your lovely comments; always supportive and positive @@AKR1.

 

I think more people who lurk would participate if they truly had such experiences as I...making mistakes but continuing on,knowing how supportive everyone is. And a sense of humor helps.

 

As you may have noted, this was GL's first posting; after I finally told him I had posted a TR; he read it (with tears) remembering our first, but not last experience in Ruaha...difficult to really explain to anyone who wonders why...so I guess I just need to say to them, "you'd have to be there."

[graceland]

@gracland has given me permission to add a few thoughts. We were the second guests to stay with Kichaka Expeditions just before @@graceland and @greenlaternjw. Over the last 4 months or so @@graceland and I have exchanged many emails in the lead-up and completion to their most fantastic adventure. She has done such a masterful job of communicating the essence of what Moli and Noelle are trying to accomplish with Kichaka that I don't feel I can much more (does this fully absolve me from not writing a trip report? ).

 

The one thing I would like to expand on just a bit is the depth and commitment Moli and Noelle have made to the communities around the park. @@graceland mentioned the fact that all of the staff were hired from a tourist school in Iringa. For almost of these individuals this was their first job within the tourism industry. They are all local so their wages are spend in and used to support the villages around Ruaha. Moli and Noelle are so committed to training these individuals that at different times they actually live with Moli and Noelle on their farm in Iringa practicing the cooking and hospitality skills they will need to be successful in their new careers.

 

Another amazing gift back to Ruaha that Moli makes is the time he spends training the rangers within the park. For most of the month of November, he and a few other guides put on tracking and firearm handling classes for all of the rangers. He is so committed to doing this, Kichaka will shut down during this time.

 

While I don't post too often on ST (much more a lurker and PM'er), there seems to be a recurring theme of wanting to support operators that give back to local causes as a way to support the viability of tourism being a contributor to conservation. Kichaka Expeditions is a perfect example of this. The trickle down of the dollars you spend with them is significant (all of their supplies, vegetables, meats, etc. come from Iringa as well as wages paid to their staff).

 

However, I still believe much more can be done to give back to the local communities as a way to sustain conservation. I am always humbled while I am in Africa and swear I will do something more to support it's people and wildlife when I return home but it never to materialize. Things are so busy once I get back to work...does that sound familiar? As a few of you know, I dabble as a part-time agent. Here is what I have discussed with Moli and Noelle. Any trips I book to Kichaka, I will donate 100% of my commissions to a local cause in or around Ruaha. The donation will be made in my name, your name and Kichaka Expeditions name.

 

Okay, I don't want to steal @@graceland wonderful trip report and break from ST protocol where Matt needs to move this so I will now take this discussion over the Lodge/Agent/Operator site.

 

 

I encouraged @PaulB to come along and participate in my TR as he knew so much more about Moli's contributions to Ruaha and environs that I.

 

Everything he says is true; Moli and Noelle are so conscious of conservation and sustainability AND hiring locals, keeping the interests of Ruaha and their home in Iringa top priority. When they packed up the camps to move, you'd never have known anyone was there - perhaps only seeing my footprint as I dashed from tent to loo midnight!

But then again knowing Noelle, she came and raked behind me!

 

I admire Paul for contributing his agent commissions to Kichaka and do hope this will effect some conversations going further; he feels strongly about Ruaha and Kichaka as we do -but of course over on the Operator Site. We don't want to miff GW!

[Zim Girl]

@@graceland

 

Lovely, lovely report. I have really enjoyed reading it and it gives me much to think about for next year.

[graceland]

@@graceland

 

Lovely, lovely report. I have really enjoyed reading it and it gives me much to think about for next year.

@@Zim Girl, As you now (and others) have Zim/Zam on my mind. Will Pm you later for some contact details!

 

As Kichaka grows in the next year I am sure different areas of the park will be discovered ,having perhaps more daily interactions as you had in Mana; but I would not dare compare the two as similar. Ruaha is very wild and remote. You will be the ONLY ones there...discoveries just around the next bend.

[Sangeeta]

By no means can you call yourself a safari novice anymore, @@graceland And I'm not saying that because of the arduous and adventurous nature of this safari either.

 

That was a very poignant good bye. Thank you for putting so much of yourself into the report. That is what makes it truly memorable.

[graceland]

By no means can you call yourself a safari novice anymore, @@graceland And I'm not saying that because of the arduous and adventurous nature of this safari either.

 

That was a very poignant good bye. Thank you for putting so much of yourself into the report. That is what makes it truly memorable.

And thank you for always being so supportive of my attempts at writing these reports from the beginning, @@Sangeeta.

 

I hope I always have memorable safaris that I can share here on ST. If someone had told me back in 2010 I'd be on 4 safaris I'd have told them they were halucinating! Forunately I found the perfect forum to spur me on; and feed my ever growing addiction.

 

As each new report is posted, I become frentic to start a plan! A happy position to be in for sure. If GL can't go I have discovered some galpals who have shown an interest. Oh Yes, new Safaritalkers!