Safaridude and Game Warden's Excellent Adventure - February 2014

[Safaridude]

Interlude 1 – Tuleto “James” Sengeny (Safaridude)

 

 

I don’t know anybody who doesn’t like James. His innocence and disarming smile win you over immediately. Though he is one of the top guides on the continent, James will never let you know that. If you don’t’ like James, you don’t like ice cream, you don’t care for puppies, you probably hate The Beatles.

 

How James got his start in the business is a story of serendipity involving Chip and Sandy Cunningham, proprietors of Outside Go (the travel company that arranged this safari). In the early ’90s, Chip and Sandy were guiding clients into Masai Mara from Nairobi, flying in or driving in and using a local Mara outfitter. On one occasion, they are simply bringing some friends into the Mara, so they opt for a discount DIY trip: just a campsite and some Maasai askaris are all they ask for. James and two of his Maasai friends get the call for this low-end askari job. The three of them make their way to the designated campsite on the designated day and wait. And wait. Meanwhile, Chip’s vehicle breaks down on the way from Nairobi, and the day is lost. Of course, these were the days before cell phones in Kenya, and people were accustomed to plans going awry. Despite some doubt, the three young Maasai men decide to return to the campsite early next morning and wait. And wait. Finally, later in the day James has his “first real contact with mzungus” and his first taste of spaghetti.

 

The legend grows from there. James is the only one of the three Maasai who speaks any English at all, so he, by default, becomes the guide. Chip and Sandy and their guests want to see wild dogs – an outrageously ambitious goal at the time in the Mara region. But James just happens to know where they are denning. Presto! James leads them to wild dogs. Now, they want to see a cheetah. Thing is, James hasn’t a clue as to how to find this elusive animal, but he feigns confidence as they set out. Bam! Cheetah. Now, they want to see a leopard. James is now really at a loss but once again feigns confidence. Bam! Leopard. In James’ own words, “the mzungus are now staring at me, thinking, who is this man!”

 

Chip meets James’ father on one of his subsequent trips to the Mara. James’ father asks Chip if Chip would take his son to Nairobi. Chip obliges. James schools in Nairobi for a while and then joins Chip and Sandy when they are called to manage Ol Donyo Wuas (now “Ol Donyo Lodge”) north of Amboseli. When Chip and Sandy leave Kenya for the U.S. after a few years at Ol Donyo Wuas, James is hired by Ron Beaton of Rekero Camp in the Mara. And the rest is history. James is one of very, very few native Kenyans – and a Maasai tribesman at that – to have a successful free-lance guiding business.

 

Even with all the success, James remains genuine. And that genuine enthusiasm! Presently, he is over the moon about seeing his first ever crowned eagle. At dinner, he thanks me profusely for “introducing” him to Meru and for the crowned eagle sighting…

 

Bwana James, you are just the best!

Edited February 27, 2014 by Safaridude

[Game Warden]

Chapter 2 (cont) – Meru National Park (Gamewarden)

 

The landscape of Meru as @@Safaridude so brilliantly captures is primordial - huge palm trees dwarf the game wandering beneath them: trumpet calls from elephants as we cross rivers and round the bend and a herd is there beside us. Stanley cuts the engine. The water splashes behind us, the sound of branches snapping as the elephants browse through shrubs. From prior research I know that a number of problem elephants have been translocated by KWS to Meru from Ol Pejeta. I wonder if this is them... I realise James is as excited to be in Meru as I am but other than a few words, I've not spoken much with him yet: that will come. Even on the drive in, SD is focused on his photography target - the lesser Kudu. The one antelope I was keen to see, having read so much about it, including accounts from Osa Johnson, was the gerenuk.

 

We also saw our first gerenuk, a grotesque little animal with a giraffe-like long neck and long thin legs, which lives in waterless country and, so far as I was able to find out, has never been seen to drink. - I Married Adventure, 1940

 

It would not take long, though alas we were not to see one standing up on hind legs to eat. But I had no check lists, no plans: I was in Africa, on Safari, after so many long years. Eyes wide open to anything and everything. Trying to absorb it all at once.

 

By the time we reach camp, I'm dusty, hot, with sunburnt arms and in need of sustenance. Sean and Tanyth who manage the camp await us, cold drinks, warm faceclothes. We clamber down from the vehicle. We have arrived at Offbeat Meru.

 

One of the many skulls. It's how my head felt upon arriving..

I was not interested in going to my tent, I wanted to flop down in the lounge, kick off my shoes and schlepp about with my feet in the dust. Lunch was not far off and we sat chatting about Safaritalk, Meru, the camp, wildlife conservation with a cold beer which did a lot to make me feel better. Everyone politely avoided looking at my bare feet. Sean and Tanyth would prove to be extremely capable hosts and most engaging in conversation around the dining table: they created a great and intimate atmosphere which everyone was part of - I soon felt very at home here.

 

Laid back lunches and lamplit dinners.

[Game Warden]

And so to my tent: it was the furthest from the mess area and one had to cross a prominent game trail which led down to the river which was not far from my porch. At night the pathway was lit with Tilley Lamps and an askari would accompany you during the hours of darkness. A few nights prior to our arrival an elephant had hemmed guests into the lounge area for most of the night: I wonder if their booze stock suffered as a result? But it wasn't just elephants: lions and leopards have been seen in camp confines too.

 

The sandy path revealed wildlife tracks at the game trail which crossed it.

For a great view of the river, my tent is the one to ask for. (I think number 6). The tents themselves are being upgraded and mine was one of the older ones whilst SD had a brand new one.

 

Note the lack of wooden decking.

 

By all accounts my tent was "in the thick of it", something I was to realise on our last full day in camp and I was meant to look out for the aardvark which supposedly snuffled up the ants in between the canvas and undergrowth. As much as I tried to stay awake, I never caught a glimpse of him. Probably due to the fact that the bed was so comfortable...

 

The location of some strange Malarone induced dreams...

I'd heard the anecdotes about Larium and thought that Malarone would be fine: however, I spent the first few nights waking, dozing, being alert to every single noise: it's hard to sleep when one is at a heightened state of excitement - I was experiencing the most bizarre waking dreams: not unpleasant in anyway but suddenly realising I was in fact awake and what had seemed so real was in fact some haluncinatory nocturnal trip. It certainly made for interesting conversation at breakfast every morning.

 

Room with a view: when in the dry season it would be even more revealing...

Bucket showers every evening, no running water, (your sink would be filled with warm water in the morning, water jugs for the rest of the day), no electrical sockets, lamps charged by solar through the day - it ticked so many boxes for me in terms of low enviromental footprint. A classic tent, simple, comfortable, authentic: it was right for me. Not that I have any terms of reference but from a Safaritalk point of view, this was an ideal traditional bushcamp. Coffee and biscuits in the morning with the dawn chorus engulfing you, waiting for the bouncing torchlight of the askari as he walked down the pathway to collect you for breakfast. That's what I remember about my tent...

[wilddog]

Coffee and biscuits delivered to your tent, first thing? Wonderful. It all sounds superb.

[Big_Dog]

Awesome, informing and hilarious. Love the dual narration and SafariDude's awesome photos!
This is going to be a good one...

[KasperW]

Excellent - party on - dudes!

 

Very entertaining.

 

Plenty of room on that bed to unfold the entire beard

Edited February 27, 2014 by KasperW

[Game Warden]

Chapter 2 (cont) – Meru National Park (Gamewarden)

 

Whatever Safaridude's preconceptions were of me, I hoped they were positive: I was determined to match him for pace, (I did not want him returning to ST and reporting badly upon his travel companion), so wake up calls were early, coffee black and strong and a malarone and ginseng tablet breakfast. (Maybe that's the reason for the trippy dreamstates...) We were out before the hint of sun, barefooted upon the bench seats, standing with the beard flowing behind me in the slipstream. Meru was not cold in the morning and the air in my face was invigorating. Whilst SD cradled his gear, James and I stood spotting, Stanley up front drove. We were after the antelope. We were after the lesser Kudu and James and SD had developed a system of clicks or pats on the shoulder at which he'd call stop and hope for a shot before the kudu bounded away. I perhaps in my excitement blew our cover the first couple of times calling out and pointing: but I soon got used to their system and endevoured to spot as much as James. Be silent in my enthusiasm.

 

Time for tea.

We could have had got up later, had a sit down breakfast. Or set something up in the bush, set up a table: but that wasn't Safaridude. That wasn't me. I think he was glad of that. So we had a quick breakfast on the go each morning. Stretching legs and having a wee. Scuffing about in the reddish dust which isn't as red as Tsavo or so I understand. Stanley and James, SD and me. Tea coffee bacon and sausages, eggs and toast, fruit and, oh yes, Oryx. (Refer to pics 10-13 in post #6). Breakfast with relaxed Oryx and the gentle focusing noise of far reaching Canon lenses and clicking shutters.

[Zim Girl]

^{"Stretching legs and having a wee."}

 

^{Loving the detail!!}

Edited February 27, 2014 by Zim Girl

[Game Warden]

Chapter 2 (cont) – Meru National Park (Gamewarden)

 

For those of you who have visited Meru, did you go into the rhino sanctuary? To be honest, it did not appeal to me. I'd had a nice sighting of 4 rhino together in Nairobi National Park and despite its size I didn't want to drive into a fenced enclosure. Perhaps I was wrong but I was happy to keep driving. What appealed to me about Meru other than the contrasting landscapes was the fact that you had to work for the sightings: I think we only saw one or two vehicles per day: it was like we were alone at the start of the world. Yes, the lesser kudu bounded away from us and we didn't find lions, although heard them roaring at night, or leopards, (despite seeing many ideal leopard trees) but whenever we were at a sighting, it was just us, for as long as we wanted and the animal itself permitted. Case in point the cheetah sighting which SD highlighted earlier on. We spent close to forty minutes, following him through undergrowth, stopped as he crossed the road in front of us continually calling out with the birdlike chirping.

 

Every evening as the light faded we returned to camp: there is no difference between Meru National Park and Bisanandi National Reserve, no demarcation line, just a marker stone and a junction: we turn right - it seems pairs of dik diks stand nestled under each bush. There are so many on this route. The two other guests on day one had seen striped hyena but we weren't to have such luck. Of course I kept eyes peeled for pangolin and aardvark, but my sighting of the former would have to wait a few days...

 

The camp wasn't that empty, just that I was early to the campfire.

For a couple of nights, SD, James and I were the only guests in camp: the campfire allowed a gentle wind down before dinner with our hosts: conversation mostly focused upon conservation. The fire was only a few meters from where a leopard had been observed hauling its kill into a tree recently. Every evening a tray of appetisers was served to us here, I could have survived on those alone.

[Whyone?]

A very entertaining report of your trip chaps, keep up the good work!

 

I was pleased to read that you didn't let inconsequential matters like breakfast get in the way of getting out and about - there always time to catch up with food and drink later in the day, or as you did, on the run.

 

I am with you re the rhino sanctuary Matt. We all know that it is a crying shame that sanctuaries are necessary, but if I am in the African bush, I want to spend my time as far away from fences as possible.

[optig]

Matt,

 

I don't know who has the best sense of humor: you or Ken. I have to say that your description of your flight, and arrival made me crack up!!!

[twaffle]

As far as the rhino sanctuary goes, I had initial reservations but it is huge and you have no concept of not being in the park, fences are not in your face and it is very nice indeed, and wild.

[Safaridude]

I had been to the sanctuary twice, and I was indifferent to going back there. Since Matt had no interest, we bagged it.

[Game Warden]

I had to leave something for next time...

[africawild]

When we visited Meru i was not fond to go to the Santuary but our guide insisted so we went . I was surprise to see how hard was to find the rhinos . We had a very good sight of a white rhino and also a group of six far away .

 

At that time they where building a new fence to make the Santuary much bigger , i suppose is alredy done ?

 

I also understood that inside the Santuary you could find all the same animals that in the rest of the National Park ?

 

Paco

[pault]

 

Did someone call me?

 

Yes, I did see lions in there.

 

Great start to the report guys! Fantastic pictures @@Safaridude and great writing both! Very entertaining.

 

I noticed that nobody mentioned the mankini yet - probbaly a result of the gagging reflex brought on by @@Game Warden 's vivid descrption of his airsickness, Definitely for the best though. Safaridue (sorry "SD" ) can keep any shots for his "provate collection".

 

Matt, wouldn't it have been wiser to take your Malarone and ginseng tablets with breakfast, rather than in lieu of breakfast? However, since your waking dreams seem to have been pleasant ones, perhaps you did it right..

Edited December 18, 2018 by wilddog

[TonyQ]

@@Safaridude

@@Game Warden

It continues with great descriptive writing, humour and excellent pictures

Meru looks great!

[COSMIC RHINO]

good report intresstin text ,great photos

 

so GW'S beard is more black on the avatar than in real life

 

I saw pith helmets in Strand Hats in Sydney they are priced at $100 ,would take a lot of room in a suitcase and not provide much sun protection.

 

perhaps with GW it is largely a style statement

[Safaridude]

Interlude 2 – Tsavo East and Tsavo West Before Meeting up with Game Warden (Safaridude)

 

I began the trip exploring the Tsavo Parks (Satao Camp in Tsavo East and Severin Camp in Tsavo West) a few days prior to meeting up with Matt at Meru. It was my sixth visit to Tsavo. Despite all that is wrong with the place (hit or miss in terms of game, meat poaching pressure on the periphery; the tank-topped, Mombasa/Malindi crowd zipping through the park at 70 kilometers in mini-buses; and a series of quirky camps), the place still draws me back.

 

Since I have written a lot about Tsavo in the past, this will be more of a pictorial report. It is worth mentioning, however, that I finally saw hirolas in Tsavo East (just east of Aruba Dam). This translocated population isn’t doing well, and the fact that all I saw was a mature bull and a young bull hanging out together wasn’t a good sign. A couple of mini-buses stopped by to see what I was looking at. When I explained to them that these are one of the most endangered animals in the world, they nodded (pleasantly enough) and then sped off. By the way, despite being known as strict grazers, the hirolas were seen browsing on Commelina, an herb usually relished by eland and kudu. I also had a nice cheetah sighting in the East Park. The West Park produced leopard and an impressive concentration of herbivores in fairly thick, stunted Acacia tortilis woodland near Severin Camp. This was my first time to Severin, and I quite enjoyed it – quite usable.

 

So, here are the photos… First, from Tsavo East…

 

A good population of elephants in Tsavo East

 

Finally, a hirola near Aruba Dam

 

Searching for Commelina

 

A black-backed jackal giving me his approval

 

A pair of impalas at Satao Camp

 

A vulturine guineafowl I couldn't coax out into the sun

 

A black-headed heron kill

 

A tawny eagle pair

 

Tawny eagle

 

Elephants surrounded by red-billed queleas

 

Elephant sequence

 

 

 

 

A resting lioness

 

The local "Peter's race" of the Grant's gazelle with impressive horns

 

A fringe-eared oryx bull

 

Another oryx bull crossing

 

Turbo!

 

A group of females

 

Somali ostriches are found in Tsavo East even though the park lies south of the Tana River

 

Lionesses rousing for the evening

 

European stork fishing

 

James casts a long shadow

 

Gerenuk near the Voi Gate

 

A cheetah mother and a couple of large cubs near Satao Camp

 

Cheetah youngster sequence

 

 

Edited March 8, 2014 by Game Warden

[Zim Girl]

A stunning set of pictures.

 

I particularly liked the running oryx and the black-headed heron.

[Tdgraves]

love the winking jackal

[Safaridude]

Interlude 2 - continued (Safaridude)

 

Now. here are the photos from Tsavo West...

 

Near Finch Hattons Camp looking toward the Chyulu Hills

 

Fringe-eared oryx

 

Eland

 

Maasai ostrich now, not Somali ostrich

 

​"I think, therefore…….. Nah…"

 

A swimming Maasai

 

Lesser kudu sequence

 

 

"Chui", a bronze-level guide himself, who drove our vehicle through the Tsavo parks

 

The real Chui sequence

 

 

Severin Camp

Edited February 28, 2014 by Safaridude

[graceland]

Terrific reporting; love the pics; the "winking jackal"and including snaps of the guides. I always like to see actual participants in reports!

 

Chyulu Hills is a great backdrop. Tried to get there when in Kenya but logistics did not workout; however Chyulu at Ol Malo was named after the area by her parents. So I have met a Chyulu --Way up in Laikipia.

[pault]

I was looking forward to this bit - even though the Game Warden wasn't there.

 

Super-good set of photos from Tsavo East - I love the way that place looks and it looks just great in that set. Nice sightings to shoot too - a sprinting oryx! The swimnming Maasai is a particularly rare sighting - almost pangolin level I should think.

 

I am so glad you saw a hirola or two there at last. So sorry that they don't appear to be doing well, but maybe the females were hiding out somewhere way off road? There is so much inaccessible area, no?

Edited February 28, 2014 by pault

[Big_Dog]

Great stuff so far!
The overall standard of excellence in SafariDude's pictures is awesome. I particularly liked the Cheetahs, Leopard and the jackal took the cake.
Can't believe you saw a swimming Masai too - very rare!