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Safaridude and Game Warden's Excellent Adventure - February 2014


Safaridude

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Oh the serval is gorgeous! That's on my long list of to-sees. U really never know what Africa serves up but u lap up every morsel and jewel it gives.

 

I feel so sad for Scarface. Is it possible for a vet to treat the wound or is it age that is wearing him down? The human-lion conflict is age old - how hard it is to remove that hate towards the predators.

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We saw our serval in the Serengeti, near Turner Springs, it was just walking along the edge of the road. not concerned about us at all. We also had a caracal sighting near the hot springs in Lake Manyara Park. Managed to get to a count of over 100 lions.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am finally all caught up, right up to the serval! Let's get that next installment up, gentlemen!

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Game Warden

Sorry @@Atravelynn last instalments are down to me: am busy putting together issue #2 of the magazine - as soon as I've put that to bed and am back from SA will continue... promise. Lots more to come as well.

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Don't overwork yourself, GW. Take your time. You have lots of exciting projects going on!

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  • 1 month later...
Game Warden

Chapter 5 – Mara North Conservancy – “A tail of two leopards and absent cheetahs cont” (GW)

 

Breakfast spent overlooking the river dividing the reserve proper with the Mara Triangle. Big crocs sunbathing on the rocks, slipping into the water soundlessly at our approach, a few hippos wallowing, snorting. James and Kimani make the tea. I scuff about in the emptiness of the Mara, so removed from its high season when my current location would be bumper to bumper with safari vehicles, 2 painted rocks mark on our side mark the space which is to be left through which the herds can cross the river: it does not look very wide, an unattural bottle neck in this stunning landscape. I sit atop a rock, sip on my tea - sigh heavily. In this moment there is no stress in my life. Just a river that gurgles and bubbles, a gentle sound of breeze through the bushes. I could stay here forever...

 

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We only see one or two vehicles at a distance. On the hill ahead of us, the Mara Serena: I could make out other camps dotted round the reserve - are there too many? At this moment, in the off season just how many visitors were with me in the reserve? It was like I had the place to myself.

 

I was excited to see the Bat-eared foxes and we'd spent a few minutes at a tree in which the carcass of an antelope hung from: there was a gathering of vehicles but no leopard. We left it be. Leopards we'd seen, and would still see - James was our lucky charm. Topis on anthills, but no sign of any roan. On the journey back to camp I fire a relentless string of questions at James: I'm keen to know as much as possible about the Mara, him, the Maasai way of life - I don't know when I'll be back. A series of cattle bomas constricts the wildlife corridor between the reserve and Mara North Conservancy - the ground here is overgrazed, dusty, dry. There are herds but they are cows - small shacks dot the vista, I notice rubbish upon the floor. In this area we see little sign of wildlife. What would it take for the bomas to be on either side of this valley rather than in the middle blocking the corridor? James says it is one of the concerns which is being discussed at the various community meetings upon which he, as a respected elder involved in conservation, tourism and traditional way of life, sits. It's so important to have someone with his experience involved at this level with the communities around the MNC.

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Game Warden

Still more to go yet...

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  • 2 weeks later...
Game Warden

Chapter 5 – Mara North Conservancy – “A tail of two leopards and absent cheetahs cont” (GW)

I was lucky to meet James Hardy from Seiya Ltd for lunch at camp: Seiya Ltd's Mission statement reads:

Mission & Vision

To continue to develop community conservation into a sustainable and profitable model to protect the Greater Mara Ecosystem.

All of the conservancies that we manage are outside of the protected Maasai Mara National Reserve and are highly suitable for agriculture; which has already placed tremendous pressure on the Mara ecosystem to the detriment of iconic and endangered wildlife and plant species.

Our Vision is to develop and implement robust, profitable community conservation plans that benefit people, wildlife and livestock, while maintaining ecosystem stability.


James manages the Mara North Conservancy and thus we spent a number of hours in conversation - I do hope this will be the focus of a future Safaritalk interview.

In the afternoon, (one which ended with another intimate leopard sighting alongside the river close to camp), Jame Sengeny took us to the Secret Valley, (at least what I think he called it, perhaps @@Safaridude can confirm one way or the other) and it was the most beautiful, hidden corner of the Mara North Conservancy. We'd come here to look for leopards in the crags, for lions we'd seen in the distance, for a bubbling river which tumbled over the rocks, for sheltered trees and luxuriant foliage, for hyenas and zebra, for my pangolin. This was where James had grown up - he pointed out places he'd known as a young Moran, where he'd kept cattle in a boma. Where he'd learnt everything about being a Maasai. The Mara, especially the Mara North was his home. In James's Secret Valley, we saw some of the things we'd come to see - other things not. But it didn't matter. Some things on safari stay secret. We may not see them, but they see us. But we sense them - there is just a hint of animals camouflaged, hidden; that is all one needs to be excited by Africa.

 

I'd been woken the night previous by the trumpeting of a charging elephant close behind my tent - it was in the area upon the opposite side of the river: at night sounds travel. A Maasai had been herding his cattle illegally hence the peturbed reaction of our pachyderm: There was to be a operation in which rangers were to sit up on the area to apprehend said illegal grazers and I was keen to be a part of it, even if only from the sidelines. But in the end, I retired and fell asleep, there were no elephants in the room as it were, just a few grazers out the front of the tent and I found out in the morning that there had been no illegal activity that night. It would have made a good story...

 

On our last full day we spent time trying to track down the cheetah but it was a fruitless search as @@Safaridude reports here. But whilst we saw no cheetah we did see some wonderful scenery, plains game by the hatful, acacia thorn trees browsed and shaped by giraffe - in fact everything one would want from a Masai Mara picture postcard scene. I saw bones bleached by the sun, old skulls slowly disintegrating into the soil. And across the plains, speckling the grass, a spread of white flowers. I don't know the names of them but it struck me that each flower represented 1 dead animal for here across the Masai Mara every day animals died, were preyed upon, their corpses scavenged - nature's way. And each flower was an epitaph. Would I one day be remembered by a white flower?

 

What would trump another close up leopard sighting? Well, it wasn't to be a pangolin nor aardvark, but aardwolf poking out from their burrow. And it was my spot, my id - I beat James, @@Safaridude - we carefully positioned ourselves, zig zagging the vehicle, stopping, getting closer but not too close and were rewarded with brief but satisfying glimpses of the pair. It made my day, if not my safari...

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  • 5 months later...
madaboutcheetah

@@Safaridude - Just re-visiting this report after your post last night. Wow - it looks like the same pack as you say ......... I think I recognize one or two of the adult dogs in your images too. Those puppies were so small in Feb and the pack is denning again!!! Amazing success in Laikipia.

 

One quick question - your images from Sosian has all those open plains with a lot of plains game. Awesome ....... Correct me if I am wrong - Sosian is a separate ranch/concession not to be confused with any of the lodges in Ol Pejeta or Lewa?

 

What will Meru look like end April/early May? Wet? - I noticed from all the images that Feb is dry up there......... Thanks.

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@@madaboutcheetah

 

The southern side of Sosian is bushy -- a lot like LWC's terrain. The northern part abruptly breaks out into a huge open plain (I would venture to say one of the biggest, if not the biggest, open plain in Laikipia).

 

Yes, Sosian is a separate ranch.

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  • 3 months later...

@@Game Warden @@Safaridude

 

WOW WOW WOW what a great tandem tale you two are telling !!!!

 

To be totally honest, I love the funny parts and the serious parts equally - I simply feel totally shamed by how great the photos are and the writing and the entertainment and the education. Neigh, I think I'll hold off sharing my adventures.

 

It's just ever so much more fun reading about yours!!!!

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This absolutely hit the nail on the head: "There is that sense of dread heading toward the airstrip on the last day of safari." @@Safaridude who spoke for himself and for @GameWarden

 

Yep, exactly my sentiments - knowing that kwa heri means leaving paradise -- returning to my crazed life, chained to laptop, marathon sessions day and night...

 

Each time I departed a camp or lodge, I wept - tears of joy mixed with unconsolable sadness.

 

Thank you so very very much, @@Safaridude and @GameWarden -- what a wonderful wonderful TR - fantastic photos, great posts - I'm blown away by your team effort and so very very grateful that you shared your adventures and pix!

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  • 3 years later...

 @Safaridude and @Game Warden 

 

Yes, I know I'm late to the party, by no less than four years, but I just had to write to tell you I'm blown away.  I've read up to post #150 in one sitting - devouring your words, swooning over your remarkable photographs, laughing, learning and loving every single word and pixel. Thank you for that.

 

What a landscape. What a read. What an experience. What a truly excellent adventure. Thank you. I loved every minute and thru your words and images, many times felt like I was right there with you. The only down side is that all future trip reports will now be held up to this gold standard and although others may come close, mine will never entertain and educate the way yours has. 

 

I can't get over that landscape. Of course, the animals are incredible, but to see them in that landscape - that's the whole point of going, right? And yet, so many seem to miss that. The wide open spaces, those distant views. That's what I want to experience. It's not just the wildlife ... it's them in their environment. Gosh, forgive me for going on and on, but this really did it for me. 

 

Thank you. k

 

The rest will have to wait until tomorrow night, but I had to thank you. 

 

p.s How on earth did I not find SafariTalk prior to this year (yes, I truly am the worst when it comes to technology). What a tragedy, but better late than never. Honestly, I'm so annoyed with myself. I have so much catching up to do. This site is the best. Thank you. 

Edited by Carolyn
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