Kwando`s Green Season

[michael-ibk]

We got up quite early next morning - we had a date:



Meet Sylvester, Cheetah Ambassador extraordinaire.

His story as we were told it: When he was just two days old his mother and his three siblings were all killed by lions in Southern Zimbabwe. After he was found by a game scout named Sylvester he was then hand-reared and taken into care by the Wild Horizons Sanctuary, his home ever since.

There´s no pretense that he would ever be released back into the wild, apparently cheetahs do not survive in the wild when not having been raised by their own for at least 20 months.

So he´s now the undisputed star of the Elephant Camp, and often visited by school children, an occassion his keepers use to raise awareness about the dangers not only cheetahs but lots of African animals face.

I´m aware about the issues with activities centered on big cats like "Walking with Lions" or the infamous Tiger Temple in Thailand and would never do these.

I do think Sylvester is a different case, simply because there is no claim here he could ever be released back into the wild and I got the genuine impression his keepers (and really everybody at camp) love him. He isn´t really marketed on the Elephant Camp´s webpage, and one does not "book" a walk with him - there´s no fixed price, people from outside can´t do it, though you are of course expected (though not asked) to donate for the experience (which we happily did.)

He stays in an enclosure (which we did not see so I can´t tell how spacious it is) but goes out at least twice a day for longer walks and is free to explore the private concession in this time without his keepers, apparently always coming back.



It´s not "the real deal" of course, no substitute for seeing a cheetah in the wild, but for what it was I absolutely loved this experience. I expected we would just get to touch him for a minute, maybe pose for a picture with all the other guests around, and that it would all be over in a couple of minutes.



But it was just two other guests, and they left after half an hour, and then we had almost 90 minutes alone with Sylvester and his keepers, touching him, petting him, and just watching him and admiring his beauty. He even licked my face once, and I swore never to wash again. (I reconsidered.)





Ready to go?






This is the area where he runs off. He quickly had reached the treeline in the background of the upper picture and was chasing some wildebeest. He seldom does Impala, we were told, they are fast, too, and he doesn´t like to be humiliated. Once in a while he does catch his "prey" but that´s it then - he has never learned how to kill and so his victims always get away, not exactly unharmed but alive.








The walk leads to the Zambezi gorge, and some stunning views were awaiting us there.









Even Sylvester seemed to pause for a minute, taking it in.

 

After almost two hours our time with Sylvester ended. A trip highlight for me, really, I loved this. And him.





Bye, Guys, see you on Facebook!

(Sylvester´s really there, btw. We´re friends of course. )

[michael-ibk]

Birds, final chapter (Hornbills)

Lots of them. Everywhere. That´s why I think of this holiday as "hornbill holiday", really. Should have counted Southern Yellow-Billed Hornbills, but I´m sure we saw hundreds and hundreds of them.





Even fencing. (Here in the Kalahari)




Not exactly as abundant, but still a pretty regular sight everywhere we went was the Southern Red-Billed Hornbill, this couple being our nicest sighting.

Much more elusive was the African Grey Hornbill - didn´t see more than five of those.




Southern Ground Hornbill, a very cool bird, was unfortunately not very accomodating. Saw them several times, but never close.




Our last one. Trumpeter Hornbill, spotted at Vic Falls:

[graceland]

A day with Sylvester..love it. I normally do not care for anything related to captured animals, but rescued and not able to re-enter the wild, I think Sylvester is one happy cat.

 

I wish I had known before making travel plans; I might have included a stopover just to have a lazy day with a sweet cat.

 

The lodge, boating, walking, etc. looks like an excellent way to end a safari.

 

Very enjoyable to read and view!

[madaboutcheetah]

Those images of the gorge reminds me of the whitewater rafting trip we did back in 2005 - back then, Kwando had a beautiful lodge over looking the gorge called, "songwe village" ..... Memories!!!

[AKR1]

Excellent report. Really enjoyed it and also, the details on the camps, something that is rarely shown in trip report.

 

Thanks for sharing this.

[michael-ibk]

Since we saw them so often from camp we couldn´t resist doing the elephant back ride at the Wild Horizons Sanctuary:

 

 

 

 

 

Of course, again, a very touristy affair, and a bit overpriced IMO (USD 160,-- if I recall correctly) for 45 minutes, but it was all good fun. Sitting on an African elephant is definitely a different feeling from an Indian, I was very conscious of how high up I was.

 

 

 

We saw only a few Impalas and Waterbuck, but of course, with a caravan as noisy as this, everything would try to get away quickly. As I would have to find out, taking pictures from a seat as shaky as on an elephant´s back is a tricky thing, I really should practise this for Kaziranga. (The lack of elephant riding options at home makes this a bit difficult, though.)

 

 

"Our" ellie and her littly boy, and I´m feeling quite guilty because I cannot remember their names anymore.

 

 

 

 

The "show" ended with a friendly salute.

 

 

And with a bit of rewarding.

 

What´s the main thing to do if one visits Victoria Falls? Visiting the falls, of course, and that´s what we did forenoon.

 

The Elephant Camp provided a shuttle service, and as part of our package we had Isaac from camp coming with us as guide. Which is really totally superfluous, but he was a very nice guy, and I enjoyed chatting to him about his home and life.

 

 

 

Vic Falls (the town) is firmly in the hands of baboons and warthogs:

 

 

 

 

The Falls are impressive, an awesome, very powerful place. A fascinating detail is that on full moons the light and the water create the unique sensation of lunar rainbows in the gorge. Just saw that in a documentary a few days ago, that must be an incredible sight. The park was remarkably uncrowded, I would estimate that we met no more than 80 - 100 persons (tops) inside the park. A welcome contrast to the madness of Iguacu Falls where one is almost trampled to death by the masses. (Not exaggerating very much here.)

 

 

Now in the Green Season the Zambezi leads a lot of water, and true to their name the falls really are a watering smoke that thunders. LOOOUUUUUDLY!

 

 

Dr. Livingstone, I pr....Ah, you know the words.

 

 

 

 

 

Devil´s Cataract

 

 

 

Main Falls

 

Size does matter: While neither the highest nor the widest waterfall in the world, it can be classified as the largest, based on its width of 1,708 metres and height of 108 metres (354 ft), resulting in the world's largest sheet of falling water. Victoria Falls is roughly twice the height of North America's Niagara Falls and well over twice the width of its Horseshoe Falls. In height and width Victoria Falls is rivalled only by Argentina and Brazil's Iguazu Falls. Vic Falls is higher, Iguacu is wider and leads more water on average, so the latter can also claim the prize of being the largest falls.

 

We didn´t spend more than about 90 minutes at the Falls, it´s a shortish walk, and the amount of water was impressive but it also made sure that we didn´t see much:

 

 

Horseshoe Falls

 

Only the first four viewpoints were (kind of) dry, after that I was completely soaked, could just as well have jumped into a river, couldn´t have gotten wetter then. So pics were pretty much a no-no after viewpoint 4, we had to stow away the camers in plastic bags in the water-sealed rucksack and carry them under the ponchos. Only now and then were a few spots which didn´t resemble permanent showers - but with any wind gust a big wet splash hit us. It was fun, but visibility was pretty much non-existant, especially opposite the Horseshoe and Rainbow Falls and at Danger Point. We had wanted to do a helicopter flight originally but decided to skip that, we probably would have seen lots of spray and nothing of the Falls.

 

It was dry again at the Victoria Fallsbridge (to Zambia) again only where we ended our walk and returned. Kind of hoped to see a bushbuck in the falls-created rainforest, an animal we had somehow missed in Botswana but no luck.

 

 

 

End of our visit to the falls, and also the end of this trip report. I´m almost a bit sad that thereby this safari ends a second time, I always enjoy writing this stuff because in my mind it puts me back there. I relive the vastness of the Kalahari, the paradise that is the Okavango, I smell the wild sage of the Linyanti, relax in the shade of Baines Baobab and I see the adorable lion cubs chasing mother´s tail, the Eland herd watching us Mexican Standoff-style, the two magnificent leopards showing off their beauty, the elephants blocking the way to High Tea, and of course the Wild Dogs .

 

Final words? Think I´ll just have to do this trip again. And this time, all you cheetahs, you better be there!

 

The End

[The Bear]

Great report Michael

 

Mark

[Marks]

Thanks for sharing this whole adventure. I've really enjoyed following along over the past few weeks and wishing I were there. The cruise along the Zambezi looks quite scenic!
How was the treatment of the elephants? I did the elephantback activity at Bandhavgarh NP in India and wouldn't want to do it again, as I was uncomfortable with the way they kind of smacked the elephants around in order to direct them...whereas it looks like you had a more positive interaction with them.

[michael-ibk]

Thanks, Marks.

 

It´s difficult to say for me about the treatment of the elephants. I noticed no bad behaviour, and the animals seemed relaxed enough, but of course I can´t tell how they are treated. All "mahouts" did have the metal stick also in use in India, and they did use it (lightly), I wouldn´t describe it as "smacking" though. I have no idea if and how painful those "directing hits" are for the animals, in India I was told that they would barely feel it because of their thick skin. Who knows if that´s true or not, though it makes a certain amount of sense. The elephants can´t tell of course.

 

All of staff seemed to be very fond and proud of "their" elephants, however, which didn´t seem to be the case in India (Corbett for me), at least I did not have the impression of such a strong bond there. The elephants have two rides a day, though sometimes they are not "used" when they appear to be "grumpy", as I was told. At night they are always taken to the stables.

 

So all in all my impression was that they are not mistreated, and I did enjoy the interaction with them, especially the feeding.

[graceland]

Great report! Enjoyed Green Season in Bots. I'd like to go on more Green Season safaris.

 

We rode ellies in Vic Falls; not sure if the same place as we rode through a lot of water, which was fun; though I doubt I would do it again.

They say the money is for their well-being as they have been rescued so I thought I was helping out. But I hate to think of any animal being hit or mistreated. Hard Call; I hope the company is legit.

 

So no bungee for you?

 

My DH.... Loves adrenalin

[michael-ibk]

 

So no bungee for you?[/url]

Next time, @@graceland.

 

And thanks, glad you enjoyed it.

[Marks]

@@michael-ibk Thanks for your thoughts on the eles, I am glad to hear they are treated gently. It also makes me think I really ought to venture into the India subforum once in a while!

[johnkok]

@@michael-ibk

 

A great TR. So well written, full of photos and so informative. Really enjoyed reading it (but only in bursts as I otherwise cannot find the time).

 

What a moment it must have been to have been able to capture Sylvester in mid-flight. That's a shot to make me green with envy for your green season safari.

 

I did the elephant back ride in Camp Jabulani (Kapama, next to Kruger) back in 2011 for the first and last time. They tell us they are all rescued elephants, and they all look well looked after. But you don't really get to see much, and taking photos from elephant back required more skill than I had (have?).

 

My only Trumpeter Hornbill shot was also at Vic Falls (2010), and also sitting alone. I have never set sight nor heard them call anywhere else in Africa. Best thing about Vic Falls for me was the walking around. It was warm when we did it, so the ponchos keeping the heat in and the spray got us pretty much soaked. But I enjoyed the walk much more than the helicopter ride. I don't think you missed anything by skipping that. It's way too "by the numbers" anyway. Ironically, the pilot on the flight out in the small plane was probably on his first one there so he took his time and his camera. My shots from the plane were better than those form the helicopter ride :-)

[michael-ibk]

Thanks, John.

 

Yes, loved getting Sylvester jumping across the river. I hadn´t intended to do the elephant ride at all actually, but since they were practically in camp it was a very convenient option. As mentioned I soon gave up taking pictures from up there, too - if there´s a good technique to it I would love to hear it.

 

Thank you for your thoughts on the helicopter, it´s reassuring to hear that it´s not that great. We were unsure for quite some time if we should or should not do it - especially since we didn´t have a small plane flight going in or out Vic Falls. We arrived by car, and had a regular flight to JHB on the way back. And good to know about the rarity of the Trumpeter Hornbill, makes the sighting more special.

[Atravelynn]

What a leopard vignette--the guide's first initially cat ID "error," the second hidden leopard, and then her affinity for showing off for the vehicles. When you mention she was more relaxed with more vehicles and acted as if she was saying, "Look how beautiful I am" it reminds me of some similar bear behavior. An experienced guide who worked around Alaskan Brown Bears in Katmai Alaska swore that the females deliberately sought out human observers and enjoyed the whispered exclamations of praise and awe from the human visitors. These animals are smart and probably can understand being admired, especially when it happens repeatedly, just like our domestic animals can understand positive reactions. Maybe that's what you were witnessing. Whatever the leopard's motivations, you got some terrific shots, full of expression. Those airport memory cards were SO worth it!

Edited June 6, 2014 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

What a leopard vignette--the guide's cat "error," the second hidden leopard, and her affinity for showing off for the vehicles. When you mention she was more relaxed with more vehicles and acted as if she was saying, "Look how beautiful I am" it reminds me of some similar bear behavior. An experienced guide who worked around Alaskan Brown Bears in Katmai Alaska swore that the females deliberately sought out human observers and enjoyed the whispered exclamations of praise and awe from the human visitors. These animals are smart and probably can understand being admired, when it happens repeatedly. Just like our domestic animals can understand positive reactions. Maybe that's what you were witnessing. Whatever the leopard's motivations, you got some terrific shots, full of expression. Those airport memory cards were SO worth it!

[Kitsafari]

you are back! and a good wrap of the trip. i'm not that keen on the falls as it sounds like a real commercialised place to me. but Sylvester may just about tilt it for me. thanks for sharing the trip. i enjoyed it very much indeed.

[TonyQ]

@@michael-ibk

Thank you for a really enjoyable and informative report - with great pictures!

[PCNW]

Thank you Michael for sharing your trip!!!

[Atravelynn]

Everybody came out to say goodbye to you as your safari ended! You've proven you saw sable. What a great ending to your trip in Vic Falls. A super report!

[CDL111]

Michael, my wife and I found it a great pleasure to read your report and it has persuaded us to book to Tau Pan, Nxai Pan, Lagoon and Lebala in November/December 2014.

[michael-ibk]

Thanks, @@CDL111 , glad you liked it. I will tell Kwando to pay me my share.

 

No Kwara for you?

[CDL111]

Stayed at Little Kwara in 2007 and 2010. Didn't feel that the tracker/guides were as good as Lagoon & Lebala in 2010. Budget has a great influence unfortunately, and as said previously, your report on Tau Pan and Nxai Pan makes it makes them camps to visit even if its just the one visit .

[madaboutcheetah]

My friends were at Tau Pan in June - June 22nd-25th ............ apparently, they saw a wonderful Lion fight - a big male Lion at the camp waterhole take on sub-adults to try and chase them out.

[twaffle]

Thank you for this very enjoyable report.