Super LEEDS: live from South Africa

[Super LEEDS]

@@pault

 

child's size 1 flip-flop included to provide scale.

 

Edited June 1, 2014 by Super LEEDS

[Super LEEDS]

Thursday 29th May

 

Forgot: yesterday we saw a couple of African hawk eagles, and they match the unnamed bird of prey from earlier in plumage and look and feel.

 

So the plan was to drive to the area the vultures were seen and jackal heard, then to walk into the private land (not lodge/camp, just privately owned). Before we set off, we heard hyaena right behind our room but they moved off making their calls before we got a look with the torch.

 

The vultures were still present and with Patrick and Faffa tracking, we chose the right trail to start at as it only took a few minutes to find the carcass: an impala, guts on one side, the horns, feet and half a jaw on the other.

 

 

 

After looking for which predator species did this - inconclusively, but still thinking lions - we got back in the land rover and immediately found wild dog tracks. They took us all over; fortunately through a huge herd of elephant, could have been close to a hundred stretching over a large area. They were great, lots of different behaviour from youngsters displaying, teenage tantrums and huge bulls clashing and breaking trees!

 

 

 

Enoch (the AOF tracker) and Isaac (from nThambo) are pretty famous and incredibly well respected in these parts. You may recall them from @@Jochen's reports. Today was the second time Isaac showed his prowess in finally delivering what we had been tracking. He did the same with the lions after the other camp (Gomo Gomo) said they had gone. Pretty funny guy; Gomo Gomo asked where the dogs were and he replied over the radio "at a bush".

 

The Skukuza pack, 7 strong. Just lying there by the side of the road after our massive 'hunt' for them, going back and forth over our traverse - the land over which the camp/lodge has rights to use. There was a younger dog who got up and then regurgitated its breakfast and proceeded to roll in it. Boy, did it stink!

 

Our first ever wild wild dogs

 

 

On the way back to camp 2 great viewings to cap our drive and stay at Africa on Foot: 4 black-backed jackals and a couple of slender mongoose on the road.

 

Easily the best breakfast yet: grated cheese on 2 conjoined fried eggs on a great chilli con carne on bread (with Nando's hot sauce!) awesome

 

Camera trap: spotted hyaena, vervet monkey and a red-billed hornbill.

 

 

 

 

 

Tips and goodbyes sorted, including a raucous time with the kitchen staff - Gerti is the head chef of Shindzela fame, every dish was amazing, and the other ladies as seen on the BBC Masters of Mayhem, honey badger program - and we were out of there, on our way to Shindzela in Timbavati, esorted by Patrick and Isaac.

 

The drive was really an additional safari, I spotted a tree full of huge silhouetted baboons and 2 tawny eagle and Isaac pointed out elephants in the dense bush.

 

At Shindzela, we were met by Sam, a guide, who ran through the rules and how the camp operates, including all activity timings - meals are activities too guys!

 

The camp consists of around 7 or 8 tents which are the usual design we see in Kenya but with a bathroom out the back that is a little open, only 3/4 length high reed round the very back. Also, the wood floor boards are spaced to there's a gap between then, as there is between door and frame. Bug penetration rating: a poor 4/10! That said, despite a couple of spiders, we had no issues.

 

Its located with in its own traverse, along a dry river bed with a steep-ish wall on the other side. Seems a lot more 'wild' than AOF.

 

In camp: family of 4 warthog that are not strictly tame so watch out (especially getting in between mum and the 2 kids), vervets on the other side of the dry river bed venturing over close to lunch time plus lots of birds. Hornbills, drongos, blue waxbills, Burchell's starling, a woodland kingfisher and a lovely yellow-grey headed bird (image attached).

 

 

 

 

10 people in camp - 2 x English couples ( us plus 2 who were actually in our Aston's shuttle), New Zealanders, Americans and Brazilians, all nice people - but they kindly split us up into 2 vehicles, 4 and 6. We were in the 6 and our guide was Vaughan who will actually be leaving to guide in the Kalahari and his last day is Friday! @@Jochen's friend (and mine!) Johan was a round but he's just back from leave so has other duties.

 

The Brazilian was a bit of a birder and I spotted a hammerkopf that had landed in the sandy river bed for him. He stalked it but only got it taking off. Cool.

 

PM drive: I spotted some elephant who we spent some time with, originally thinking there were 2 but then 2 more adults came out with a small youngster who was great, his mama however had a large lump on her knee so she was doing amazingly to have kept a baby healthy; I saw a Bataleur in a distant tree, beautiful bird; huge herd of buffalo, probably the same as AOF; dwarf mongoose at home during the sun downer, 2 x Amarula that didn't stick around for long.

 

 

 

 

 

Night drive: juvenile Vereaux's (sp.) eagle owl calling for his mum, great sighting; steinbok on the Kruger National Park side; at the main dam of the camp there was a rather unique trio, a huge bull elephant on the left, a long croc on the right and in between an adult Veraux's (sp.) eagle owl in the water! I saw the latter as Vaughan waved the light on the far bank and it took everyone a while to pick it up. My guesses of hyaena, jackal and tree stump were way off though..... The bird flew off as we approached the other side, between us and Mr E. Bull.

 

I need a favour guys, please. I spotted a rather large orange light on the horizon and looked like a huge fire burning the Kruger, could someone please check up and post on here? The guides here weren't sure if it was a controlled burn or not. Was massive. Internet here is not very good and quite expensive (£2.50 for 50MB) so I'm writing this in notepad and then dumping it into ST hence not being able to easily check myself.

 

Back for dinner which was celery soup for starter, lamb chop curry-style dish with carrots, 'basmati' rice - about which the womenfolk soon said wasn't basmati - and a pumpkin cake type dish, with a nice cherry cheesecake. Great chat and banter at dinner with the other guests. Shindzela was a guest too but sadly he came before our arrival from the drive :(

 

Guests had been taken on drives previously with no mentions of walks so there were lots of questions around our experiences at AOF as well as in Kenya. I think Vaughan picked-up on this and offered us a walk in the morning which only 6 out of 10 of us opted for.

 

Boy is is cold at this camp, freezing in the tent! Hot water bottles are nice but you need another 38 to put around the tent! Tip: don't move you head any where else on the pillow. You are sleeping on an ice block.

 

Hyaena in camp. One call was so loud, it had to be in amongst the tent as everyone elese heard it too. Continued vocalisation but at more of a distance. Forgot to place the camera trap

 

Slept well despite the change in temperature - AOF was mild at worst throughout and really nice so this was a hell of a shock. Still, happy to be in Africa, eh?

 

Something in Shindzela's favour, soft drinks are free shot of Amarula on 10 rand, which is about 60p w00t w00t

 

P.S. apologies for the repeated "I spotted......." comments. I'm really that good. Spotting skills are available for hire for your next trip. Many thanks.

 

P.P.S. I even spotted a very special kind of wild dog too that no one else could see and that was invisible when spied by binoculars.

Edited June 3, 2014 by Super LEEDS

[Game Warden]

News from home for you @@Super LEEDS, Brian's left Leeds...

[Super LEEDS]

News from home for you @@Super LEEDS, Brian's left Leeds...

 

Brian OUT!!

[Super LEEDS]

Friday, 30th May

 

Forgot to mention: our Land Rover broke down - wasn't getting past 1000 revs before stalling - so Johan came out with a super quiet, petrol V8 version for us to use. Was quite funny in that a message came over the radio from Johan saying the landy was fine only for him to come back within seconds to say "oh no its not"!

 

You could not have paid me to get out of bed at 5am this morning, hai hai. When I did get out I put on 6 layers before venturing to the semi-outside bathroom. Finally out and about, cup of tea before the walk. Slightly later start than the drive as we waited for it to get lighter.

 

Walk: saw a drongo and heard a squirrel until the end when we caught a hippo out of water. We quickly skirted round out of sight whilst he made the loudest racket getting back into the water, mimicking a bomb going off in the dam he's the male of a small group of 4, with a 2 month old baby. Wife said it was cute....... 3.16 miles walked.

 

 

 

Johan met us at the dam with our previous vehicle which began to stall again during the ride back - right in the middle of the hot sunshine, with no shade. He and Vaughan managed to get it going again - something about a fuel blockage and priming something to get it started - and we were on our way, back for breakfast.

 

The Brits and New Zealanders were leaving today with an American family of 4 would be arriving keeping the number of guests at 10. It would just be us and the existing Americans with Vaughan - 4 in the vehicle is a good number.

 

It was shower day and my luck was out as the boiler would not keep the hot water going for more than a few minutes! Weirdest shower I ever had, first Sam came over to have a look (at the shower!) and was literally 2 feet away from me behind the reed cover and then Johan came over whilst I lathered and dried..... the wife would have to wait until later whilst they fixed it when we were out on the drive as they had to shut the water off for the whole camp.

 

Lunch was focussed around some gorgeous honey and mustard chicken. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

 

PM game activity: impala, kudu, blue wildebeest, 3 zebra, I spotted a solitary white-backed vulture that was building a nest. Amarula.

 

 

 

 

 

On the night drive, we started with fiery-necked nightjar and then came across the juvenile Veraux's (sp.) eagle owl again making his rather endearing noise. Whilst with him/her, we heard something walking through the brush to our right and despite lighting the area up and following the noise, we didn't get to see what it was. My guess it got home and went down into a hole in the ground.

 

 

 

Massive fire on the horizon again in Kruger and this time we got wind of the smoke too. Sam's guests saw all sorts including secretary bird, genet, african wild cat, giraffe. He'll be driving us tomorrow for our last evening drive.

 

Dinner was squash soup followed by venison pie with rice, gravy and fried baby marrow with maleva (?) cake with custard. Dinners here are outside on a long table, everyone together, with the fire on one side. Other meals are in the main building across 2 tables.

 

Camera trap up tonight just outside my room facing the sand pathway. Heard hyaenas calling again.

 

It wasn't cold tonight, just mild. Weird but we weren't complaining.

 

I made a HUGE spot this evening which is worthy (for me) of its own post to follow.........

 

In the meantime, a quandary: you see a leopard but nothing on photo/video, you don't see a hyaena but you have a pic of it. Do they 'count'?

[Super LEEDS]

Dear STers

 

My mate, the @@Game Warden, has kindly waved his magic wand and opened the thread up so I can put in pics in the right places so if interested, please just rescan from the start.

 

Cheers!

 

P.S. @@pault, the pic you have been waiting for has been uploaded as a priority.

[Marks]

Enjoying the updates with pictures...and seeing proof of the wildcat sightings!

[twaffle]

Enjoying this very much but no idea on the fire. Hope it isn't too bad.

[pault]

Dear STers

 

My mate, the @@Game Warden, has kindly waved his magic wand and opened the thread up so I can put in pics in the right places so if interested, please just rescan from the start.

 

Cheers!

 

P.S. @@pault, the pic you have been waiting for has been uploaded as a priority.

Got that picture now. I was puzzling hard over the meaning of the original post without a picture showing. Excellent work on size. Not seeing much evidence on weight, but will take your word for it.

 

In the spirit of Leeds Live from't Bush I googled for news of a fire for you, and there was a controlled burn at H7 that seemd to get feisty and make it necessary to avoid S12. But that was 27-28 May.

[pault]

And no, I haven't a clue what H7 and S 12 are, but I bet you do by now.

[Jochen]

Today was the second time Isaac showed his prowess in finally delivering what we had been tracking. He did the same with the lions after the other camp (Gomo Gomo) said they had gone. Pretty funny guy; Gomo Gomo asked where the dogs were and he replied over the radio "at a bush".

 

 

Classic Saki!

 

Congratz on your first wild dogs. Told ya!

[Jochen]

And no, I haven't a clue what H7 and S 12 are, but I bet you do by now.

 

Those are roads in Kruger NP. Must have been a massive burn, because Shindzela is still quite a bit from Kruger NP. Ngala plots are in between.

[Jochen]

About the shower; I learned that, if it's those gas-heated ones, you just have to open it full force, to get the flame going and keep it going. And then just add cold water to get the perfect temperature.

 

Great report so far. But I know it even got better. Saw a post of Johan on FB... ;-)

 

PS. Malva cake. Its malva pudding... on cake. Goes straight to your arteries. South Africans love it.

Edited June 2, 2014 by Jochen

[COSMIC RHINO]

the gas hot water and a whole lot of things work better there

 

it is owned by a former truck driver who is able to pull apart engines , service them and a whole lot of other thing

 

the gas hot water heaters arr serviced monthly

[Super LEEDS]

What a difference a day guide makes....

 

Saturday 31st May 2014

 

Nothing on the trap apart from Sam doing the rounds and the wife on the way to morning tea.

 

Today would be Vaughan's last drive at Shindzela and ours' with him, this aft tomorrow morning we'd have the much raved-about Sam.

 

AM drive: impala, zebra, hyaena poo, close encounter with a dark chanting goshawk, coffee next to a wallow, giraffe and lilac breasted roller. The highlight was at the end of the drive when we tracked the large herd of buffalo into dense cover on foot and got into the middle of them.

 

 

 

The Brazilian and American couples were leaving today with no more guests due for a few days at least so just the 6 of us in camp now.

 

 

@@COSMIC RHINO we'd heard and read of elephant coming to the river bed to dig for water but had seen no major wildlife around camp at all. Following your post, we had our greatest ever elephant experience!! Ever stayed at Tanda Tula? Fancy saying they get black rhino?

 

I heard a large noise - like a breaking tree - from the main area behind our tent somewhere so the missus and I went to investigate. There were 3 bulls, 1 quite large.....

 

Sorry to interrupt this broadcast, we're at Tanda Tula now and had to stop writing as 2 nyala (new for us) were having lunch right outside our tent!

 

.... 1 quite large, that were munching their way through the shrubbery on the far side of the bank, past the tents. I said to the wife they're coming this way, thinking they would just walk along the river to the small water hole the camp has setup. Well, what actually happened was the largest bull came into camp, between the tents and fire/dinner area to munch on and break a small tree outside our tent. Meanwhile, we were actually on foot on the pathways and when he made his way to another tree we were perhaps 10m from him. He was completely relaxed but we moved back slowly anyway, around our tent to view him from behind. As for the other 2 smaller males, 1 was in the river bed eating leaves and the other scarpered up the far bank, perhaps less comfortable.

 

 

 

Awesome. Shame the guests left when they did.

 

The big guy stayed around camp for some time and had to chased away as he made his way to destroy the camp's water supply pipes!

 

PM drive: a white-backed vulture was circling over camp before we set off. Kudu group, hippo family at the large dam, lone kudu male (no good pics), go-away birds

 

 

 

feeding a youngster on the road, then we got a call from the rangers in the other vehicle (who were scouting) of wild dogs on the border of the Shindzela plot and another. Sam drove like an F1 drive to get there and were just in time to see all hell break lose. We saw a lone male kudu and herd of impala then all of a sudden they break into different directions, kicking up a load of dust and then a large, mostly black wild dog sped past after the main herd of impala. No pics/video unfortunately but I got a good look at him and he was completely focused, ears back. It probably all only lasted for 3 seconds but felt like an hour. We couldn't follow them as they were not on our traverse and even though we tried seeing if they crossed over, they were gone.

 

Deserved Amarula.

 

On the night drive we saw the kid V's eagle owl again making his hilarious noise and then spent some quality time with a lionness and 4 18 month old cubs. Mother was keen to hunt initially but the kids were too ative and not sitting still so she just sat down and went to sleep, showing her displeasure when either of them approached for any affection/bonding.

 

 

 

We moved on to spot a grey duiker and then do a bit of stargazing, Sam showing us how to calculate which direction is south from the 'southern cross'. Man, it's not easy!

 

Before our drive, the American dad had asked Sam what was on the menu and he said we'll try for dogs followed by lions. I joked that Sam can deliver sightings on demand and asked him for hyaena as we hadn't technically seen any yet. He didn't disappoint and we found 2 rather young ones not far from camp.

 

 

When back at camp, whilst escorting us to our tent, Sam said there's more hyaena, right outside our room as well as a scrub hare just sitting there!! We spotlighted with our torches from our verandah across the river to see where they were going and there were around 6 pairs of green eyes staring at us. Lovely.

 

Dinner was vegetable chowder, boerwurst and brai'd pork chops for main and a cold flan for dessert.

 

Only jackals were heard that night, in camp somewhere.

 

It was only half a day but with Sam we'd had the best time of our stay in this camp. Maybe harsh but sometimes you just get a feeling about a guide and sometimes you don't.

Edited June 3, 2014 by Super LEEDS

[Super LEEDS]

Thank you @@pault, much appreciated.

 

Those roads are in the national park, I'm in the private reserves and glad for it.

 

You have my word, only couple of changes of clothes!

Edited June 2, 2014 by Super LEEDS

[COSMIC RHINO]

There to more to life than wifi and food for that matter

 

at Lewa safari camp the connection is not that good at times

 

there were some friends staying together enjoying the avocado salad at lunch

 

outcomes the ipad, hey you must check out this avacado recepie site, the food was good but they are easily better a whole lot by the surroundings

[marg]

Try some amarula in your porridge at breakfast!

[COSMIC RHINO]

Pungwe does that sometimes , or sometimes Drambuie with oats

[Super LEEDS]

@@marg no porridge here, and I wouldn't want to waste the nectar

[graceland]

@@Super LEEDS,

 

Super Duper times...so glad you got the pics sorted and the Wild Dogs!

 

Like the idea of a hidden camera. We do that here in our own back yard to see what comes out at night....other than a sleepwalker over served with wine.

 

It's amarula and hot chocolate for me on those chilly SA mornings.

[Super LEEDS]

The day of excellent names before the night of excellent excellence

 

Sunday 1st June - happy June everyone

 

Mild again this morning so no crying on my part. Camera trap caught nothing either - no tracks so don't think its a dodgy sensor!

 

Found that the American dad caught some of the dog chase and managed to extrct some images so left him my business card so he can send on when he's done processing

 

AM drive: stumbled upon the 2 hyaena kids again with 1 running off holding something in this mouth (I bet it was a rock) and the other smaller one staying around to watch us [wife said they were cute], black-headed oriole, impala, impala, impala, an African harrier hawk (old name: Gymnagen [sp.]), mingled with the large herd of buffalo and tried snapping some ox-peckers in action, as well as male trying to get some action. The second time, the first being at the dam during sundowners at AOF, we saw a male get on the side of a female, totally getting it wrong.

 

 

 

 

We had halted for some reason and while we were stopped, a group of impala suddenly made a mad dash across the front of the land rover and Sam was halfway through joking about next time he will read up on the impala language so he can ask them why they are running in future when he shouted out "WILD DOGS"!!! Off we went, off-road off like a rocket.

 

Initial thoughts were that the dogs were after the impala that scattered but it soon became apparent that this wasn't the case and that they were just heading home. I noticed that their heads were a definitely reddy-pink colour so deduced they'd already fed. Further proof was mid-mad-dash, the dogs just started drinking, as calm as you like, at a small dyke that the track passed through and then they were off again, shortly to pass into Kruger territory, where their den is, and out of our reach. Great excitement and a quality viewing for us.

 

Stopped at the main dam for tea and coffee and muffins. The hippo family along with baby were there, 2 Egyptian geese and the solo croc sunning on the far bank.

 

Watched a white-backed vulture sunning itself, golden orb spider, impala.

 

What a 24 hours with Sam as our guide, OK he had nothing to do with the eles in camp but still, shows how we almost felt our luck change. I was kinda sad to leave, Sam's a wild dog magnet and we really loved the feel about the place. Said bye to all and Johan (passed on your message @@Jochen!) and we were into our Seasons Safari (I think) transfer vehicle.

 

Our driver was the first person of today with an excellent name: Remember.

 

On the way to our next camp, Tanda Tula, also in Timbavati but with a huge 58,000 hectares traverse, we saw impala, warthog, duiker and impala, zebra and giraffe altogether. On arrival, we were met by Happiness, greeted at the bar by Smiling and welcomed by our ranger, Civilised

 

 

After the formalities of warm towel, iced tea and signing an agreement on the indemnity form, we were shown to our luxurious tent (it has a bath and a shower, as well as a hair dryer..... oooooooooh) and blown away by the view of a very wide sandy, dry river bed. Whilst in the tent, we were visited by a young male and female nyala pair which my wife approached quite closely so they seem used to humans. I also shot this male kudu on the other bank whilst on the bed but have spared you my socks this time

 

 

Lunch was announced by the beating of a very large drum and we were off to enjoy a lovely view of up and down the river bed, sat on a platform on a bend in the river. Lunch was trout baked into an almost quiche-like structure, served with sweet chilli sauce. They have a 'proper' chef here, Ryan, who greeted us and explained in detail how it works.

 

A large, but not fully grown, male nyala came to the main area to eat on the lawn and we were warned to stay away as he was aggressive. Having dodged the danger, we were in the jeep with Civilised and tracker, Jack. There were meant to be 7 of us but a couple decided against the pm drive so it was us, a guy from the UK who has been here every year for 10+ nights for 13 years and a couple of Kiwis.

 

Ranger Civilised and Head Tracker, Jack. Rifle is called Bruno - meet the CJB team.

 

 

PM drive: steinbok (or is it steinbuck?), giraffe, mating lions that slept mostly, impala, male red-billed hornbill (his bill is red on top and black at the bottom, female's are all red), more giraffe.

 

 

 

 

There is a lot of burnt ground around here, Civilised said they carried out a controlled burn a few weeks ago and do it nearly every year.

 

 

Sundowners over a dam (pond, lake, water source) so Amarula was observed as well as a warthog on the far side. Chicken wings too which was a break from the biltong, crisps and crackers. Will never tire of an African sunset, more so for the sky immediately after, what great colours.

 

Night drive: zebra and a hyaena den with 2 adults and around 3 very small, black pups who were very brave and curious as they approached our vehicle without a moment's hesitation. A slightly older, but still older, sibling came even closer and tried eating our tires. Wife said they were cute....

 

 

 

 

Dinner was a really drawn out affair and the chef, Ryan, gave a very long-winded description of the evening's menu that went on and on and on. When he finally got on to the mains and mentioned "slow roasted beef rib" I had to hold my tongue to prevent me saying "its not the only thing being slow roasted". It was clear he felt just as uncomfortable as us. It was clear from the fellow guests and their discussions that this place was not as focussed on safari as even us relative amateurs are.

 

Going to give an opinion here: this place feels a little contrived. Great infinity pool though........

 

Dinner: gnocchi or impala gespaccio (sp.) for starter, slow roasted beef rib or 'rear-end' of duck for main with something or other for dessert oh yeah it was a wild berry thing.

 

Dale, a 'host' (read: guy employed to talk during dinner), escorted us to our tent and recommended a place to put the camera trap up.

 

Heard lots during the night but since it was technically morning when it really kicked off, I'll add one of the best wildlife moments we've had to the next day's report.

Edited June 3, 2014 by Super LEEDS

[Super LEEDS]

There to more to life than wifi and food for that matter

I. Cannot. Believe. You. Said. That.

[graceland]

@@Super LEEDS

 

Loving the ongoing commentary and pics. I never thought about returning to Kruger area but actually it looks kinda fun. Great photos-- I know what you mean bout leaving the MOST EXCELLENT GUIDE and wondering, what is next?

 

Nice spot over the river. Lunch looked excellent great spot....As did the baby hyenas....(awww...) and my favs, cats!

 

Your last comment cracked me up but, you know on this forum, most everything does!

(I do love ST, don't get me wrong, I rarely venture elsewhere these days)

 

Food needs to be good, I like wifi (usually snuck into a mangers tent somehow) as I have an elderly lab I have to check on regularly or all lion cubs bring me to my knees. But I'd never be texting...here at home or there.

 

More, and thank you!

[Jochen]

African harrier hawk (old name: Gymnagen [sp.])

 

Said bye to all and Johan (passed on your message @@Jochen!)

 

Gymnogene

 

You really gave Johan a kick in the butt? Oh man, I'm so in trouble now.