Zimbabwe Amazing Adventure September 2014

[ld1]

@@graceland we were in Mana from the 24th Aug to the 2nd Sept (avoiding the game count too!).

[Africalover]

Your love and passion for Africa shines through your TR. Always facinating reading your trip reports.

 

Looking foreward to the rest of your Zim report.

 

Thank you.

[graceland]

On 10/7/2014 at 5:53 PM, Africalover said:

Your love and passion for Africa shines through your TR. Always facinating reading your trip reports.

 

Looking foreward to the rest of your Zim report.

 

Thank you.

@@Africalover,

 

I appreciate your very kind words. I am in the realm of "everything is new" when going to Africa, so yes I have a deep passion that is only sated when I am able to plan a safari.

 

There are so many prolific writers here on ST; that I just decide to write from my heart. I am humbled that one looks forward to my tr's; thank you.

 

SO I guess I'd better finish off the Mana portion! I still have amazing times to tell of Matasudona and Hwange!

 

I heard from Craig, our guide, today and he has promised to send me some photos. (Between safari gigs./homelife/etc. so I must be patient)

 

I must admit there were many times I was not able to take a pic; either too slow, or too frozen in the moment; many times just without it nearby. As in crawling on all fours.

 

 

Thank you for taking the time to reply

[Sangeeta]

@@graceland - what can I say? You bring a smile to my face the moment I begin to read your entries. Just so you know, Niki was watching me read your report last night (I didn't know this as I was so absorbed in the reading) and this morning he asked me what I had been reading - and that he had rarely seen me look so peaceful and happy. That's a huge compliment from a guy who has seen me reading in bed for many, many years

 

That first vid is fabulous and wow, what an opener to Mana - with all three of the ele icons waiting to usher you in! Much respect for your fortitude during the bee incident - don't know if I could have managed to stay still. I think all of us should simply invest in bug suits and be done with it since we like nothing more than crawling and sneaking around the bush

 

Looking forward to more many vids - hope you've managed to find them esp since you've learn to upload them as well. I loved the happy ele photos.

[graceland]

@@graceland - what can I say? You bring a smile to my face the moment I begin to read your entries. Just so you know, Niki was watching me read your report last night (I didn't know this as I was so absorbed in the reading) and this morning he asked me what I had been reading - and that he had rarely seen me look so peaceful and happy. That's a huge compliment from a guy who has seen me reading in bed for many, many years

 

That first vid is fabulous and wow, what an opener to Mana - with all three of the ele icons waiting to usher you in! Much respect for your fortitude during the bee incident - don't know if I could have managed to stay still. I think all of us should simply invest in bug suits and be done with it since we like nothing more than crawling and sneaking around the bush

 

Looking forward to more many vids - hope you've managed to find them esp since you've learn to upload them as well. I loved the happy ele photos.

Thank you dear @@Sangeeta for reading my musings on Mana.....What an unbelievable beginning to our entire Zimbabwe experience! I just today spent some time learning (yes an old dog can possibly learn new tricks) how to add captions to "iphoto" pics that I upload (as I find that easier (sorry Matt) than adding them to a file on ST and on and on and on.. so we'll see if it worked or not.

 

We had so MANY encounters and adventures I am still in a "STATE"...Did I mention I never wanted to leave; proceeded to take pics of a house in Hwange I wanted to build --on water.. What was in that wine they served me and why did it not make me a better photog. My films were shaky to say the least. But NEXT time they will be perfection!

 

Back to reality; I realize its' best just to try to visit as often as possible

[Sangeeta]

 

"...Did I mention I never wanted to leave; proceeded to take pics of a house in Hwange I wanted to build --on water.. What was in that wine they served me and why did it not make me a better photog. My films were shaky to say the least. But NEXT time they will be perfection!

 

Haha! That is funny that you did that! I build imaginary houses everywhere I go too

[graceland]

ANOTHER DAY STROLLING THROUGH MANA POOLS

 

 

 

I had better get this down on paper, before Matt and Dude get in theirs -- and I am whisked off to the "archives".

 

After the totally unexpected and superb encounter with the "lazy lions" as we called them - I mean, really - elles, buffalo and impala in ONE spot and they don't have the energy to get up and even make a subtle attempt to impress us. They were obviously lean; so we just called them what is was...lazy.

 

However, we were not....and off on another walk the next morning, all thoughts of hippos attacking me as we walk in the near dark ALMOST gone from my mind. I decided to stick even closer to Craig and Jud could walk behind me and take photos...

 

He had nothing to do with that one....If I wanted a shot, I'd have to be last... Sunny and beautiful, I'm good with that...its the darkness that envelopes one into fears.

 

Coming upon a herd of elies with small ones we were quiet and watched for a while to see if they would relax and let us enjoy their morning meal....

 

(They are THE LAST pic - I messed up the sequence, darn.) But on foot was exceptional to be so close. Is anyone keeping count of my screwups. Well at least its' only once a year

 

(SO why had I not been to Mana before??) Oh yes, I only started walking last year. Or, It Would Be First.

 

 

Not realizing there was one away from the herd; he surprised us by giving us a bit of a flap of the ears and rush of the feet.

 

Craig pushed us (gently) behind a huge set of tree branches; we had an opportunity to get close and personal.

 

Remember, we were in the jeep for the "welcoming committee", so this would be my first close up on foot - within touching distance with a large elie - who appeared not too happy to see us.

 

Day two; I am losing weight from all the adrenalin.

 

Yes, I was a bit in awe, so the camera was not out for the staring off contest. I was frozen.

 

As soon as I saw the large foot turn away, I felt safe. And had to snap that foot. It was HUGE.

 

Back to camp, we must had run into his family; and LUNCH!

 

 

AFTERNOON - A drive and Lions and Buffalos....It never ends

[twaffle]

I like the addition of text on the photos Graceland, it really helps to put the images into the storyline.

[graceland]

I like the addition of text on the photos Graceland, it really helps to put the images into the storyline.

Thanks @@twaffle, it took a bit of researching as "Iphoto" was making it impossible to add captions. Finally found a way to get them to "preview" before I export.. by reading many blogs. Always difficult for me - as you know

[Game Warden]

@@graceland Hey look at you getting all fancy with your photos

[TonyQ]

@@graceland

Very enjoyable writing and photos - and the captions work well.

You certainly show the excitement of being on foot so close to elephants...

[graceland]

@@graceland Hey look at you getting all fancy with your photos

Gotta keep up @@Game Warden'

 

These Youngsters here have too many "techie" toys.

 

I still like slide shows

[graceland]

Let's Take a Drive Around.....Mana

 

As much as I only want to walk, (addicted one might say) seeing Mana pools by car is necessary; not only to appreciate the beauty, the wildlife that congregate together throughout the park, the park itself is stunning.

 

Mana does appear to have just been dropped down in the middle of no-where by someone kind and giving in order for all creatures great and small to live cohesively. Until one gets hungry of course.

 

There is a serenity I felt though and nature works in those mysterious ways.

 

I am not a very spiritual person- practical if not a bit clumsy stumbling through life; however I did feel "something" good while being in Mana - and all of Zimbabwe. Perhaps we were lucky that our guide also wanted to avoid others on our drives and seek out moments that we'd never have the chance to experience back home. When we saw a gathering of cars, we kept going. As if our choice had to be what WE discovered, not what others were photographing.

 

A clean vehicle awaited...

 

 

 

Through the lit filled trees the plains of Mana produced a myriad of wildlife; on previous safaris I had never such variety so close together sharing their special world.

 

 

and sitting still enough for me to actually capture a shot of a face not a rear end..

 

 

 

All around these Zebra are impalas; jumping, running, dancing like ballerinas.

 

From Ballerinas to Body Builders

 

 

and one in transport mode

 

 

Moving along at a slow pace just to see and be, we come across a favorite that usually eludes us for a photo - though I get my antelopes confused at times but I do love the ears or horns that each individual displays

 

 

 

 

 

As we are moving around Mana there are not to many other cars, but we see one stop with a photographer with his tripod watching and photographing something.

 

Well there were vultures about ~

 

 

SO, Yes let's jump off the car and go take a look...what a great time to have a guide along; we slowly make our way closer and closer...there are three lions with their recent buffalo kill, two females and one male. The female is having nothing to do with the vultures and hyenas coming their way; she runs themoff and lies practically on top of the bufallo carcass.

 

The male on the other hand must think it Thanksgiving, and is in his lounge area, resting the meal off

 

 

No pics of female; the sun was directly in my eyes...

 

 

We walk back to the car, and out of the corner of our eyes we see the photographer running full speed to his car tripod above his head. What he was running from we could not make out....But he made it.

 

Even though he was NOT supposed to run

 

[Kitsafari]

@@graceland wow the eles laid out the red carpet for you! How wonderful it is to feel their calmness around you as you gaze on them.

 

You are making mana pools and walking safaris really irresistible! We did a 3-hour walk in SLNP and it was such a quiet walk that I wondered what the excitement was all about walking safaris. Then I read your experience, giving me a glimpse of what can be.....

 

I too like the little descriptions on the photos, and I doubt if I can ever learn to do that!

[graceland]

On 10/8/2014 at 5:51 PM, Kitsafari said:

@@graceland wow the eles laid out the red carpet for you! How wonderful it is to feel their calmness around you as you gaze on them.

 

You are making mana pools and walking safaris really irresistible! We did a 3-hour walk in SLNP and it was such a quiet walk that I wondered what the excitement was all about walking safaris. Then I read your experience, giving me a glimpse of what can be.....

 

I too like the little descriptions on the photos, and I doubt if I can ever learn to do that!

 

 

@@Kitsafari

 

Like you, having had a bit of a walk in Kenya I wondered what all the fuss was about. Those were "flora and fauna" walks; I don't know if the guides are trained as the Zim guides (well I know they are not usually as Craig told us about the intense training a Zim guide goes through)

 

SO. to get the intense experience you do have to go where it is a specialty. As in Zimbabwe. As well as Mana the guides we met in Matusadona and Hwange are trained -- and carry their rifles (just in case, but Craig said he's never used it).

 

I know I would never have begun my safari life walking; it does take a lot of trust and confidence with your guide as well as knowing how certain wildlife "live" which you can see safari after safari via jeep - and then move on...if you feel it. Of course you have the option of telling your guide you want to stay further away - whatever YOU want. We just said if the opportunity is there, lets' go for it. We are not shrinking violets....

 

With the exception of in learning how to operate equipment computers, cameras, all that - I'm a mess

 

BUT I can GOOGLE! And I was determined to figure out why Iphoto would not download my descriptions - when I exported. So after reading blogs I could not make heads or tails out of with the techie language, I stumbled over one that simply gave me directions! I'd be happy to share...just let me know. Its all about Preview Feature on the Mac.

 

Anyway I can't imagine NOT going on walks. With a great guide as @ Id1 had with Doug McDonald- and I with Craig -and I believe Matt had a guide on his Mana adventure; Benson? So there are many out there if you want to go. I also loved the next two parks as well as Mana (and the camps there have guides who can take you walking without the cost of a private) So Zim is a fav.

 

And Sangeeta also spoke highly of Gonarezhou park, which is on my list for sure

 

Thank you for reading my travel adventures. I need to get out of Mana and on to the next but we moved to yet another camp in Mana....switched things a bit and I will try to get to that.

 

Before the next great walk in Matusadona!

[graceland]

On the road to Illala

 

Camp is broken down and we are headed to the campsite in Chikwenga concession of Mana. Craig takes us on a long game drive so the crew can get there and set up camp.

 

As we leave Mana, I take it all in...the impala (still my beautiful ballerinas), the kudu, the hyenas (everywhere), birds I never was able to capture (How are youall able to do that; they always fly off!); the elephants everywhere (No last shot of Bosewell and friends, darn); the trees, the pods, the dust...keeping it all to myself and taking no pictures. No lions on the way out, but wow were we fortunate with those sightings. No dogs - maybe another time. It is the magical spot because they all reside together. There is Harmony.

 

Why can't the rest of the world learn from this?

 

Off we go, sand roads, lots of potholes but I always get excited over a new spot. I like change. Craig has told us nothing. Only this area is quite different and a beauty in its own right. Two and a half hours later ....

 

But wait, I took a one last sundowner pic from camp

 

 

and on the way to Illala, one last goodbye from a herd..

 

 

The bumpy road ends at a sand filled river...unfortunately the crew did not beat us there. so I sit and watch the activities. brings out a crowd.

 

 

And a little white jeep owned by the canoe company saves the day

 

 

I had mentioned in several emails we'd like a "canoe" ride..I figured one of the upcoming camps might have one and we could go out for a few hours....little did I know he planned the transport of these canoes for us at the new campsite (and hoping he had a paddler for me!) ha ha

 

As we drive in, we do not feel as welcomed as we did with Boswell, Curly and Big Vic

 

 

He liked our vibe and let us through...

 

All of us arrive at the same time; but Craig's crew is fast and soon we have our tent up, and our view of the river - Sweet.

 

 

This spot is all ours; we love it.....it is way out there....no one around; just us and Craig and his amazing team. I could get used to this.

 

Our view - who would not love this!

 

 

But before we hit the fish we need to give the team a chance to get the kitchen and their camp together, so what do we do? we take a walk....

and come across a young one...walking along the river

 

 

 

This is where walking is so amazing. You actuallly have the time to see how intelligent these animals are; this one was distinguishing between the grass he wanted to eat, and the grass that would be nutrionally worthless.....I was mesmerized

 

 

 

 

 

And then, so nonchalantly, finding his drink

 

 

 

Coming up.....fishing expeditions by canoe and in the camp

 

 

Thank you all for patiently following me along....

 

Zimbabwe, who knew it would capture my heart. And so much more for us to experience...a never ending adventure!

 

 

 

Edited October 9, 2014 by graceland

[twaffle]

Continuing with the wonderful experience … well done Graceland. I don't know how you can ever leave these places knowing that you won't go back because Jud won't go to the same place twice. I'd be so, so sad. I love returning and renewing a relationship I started before, it adds extra layers of richness and beauty. I guess that you have the excitement of choosing a new destination though and of course, walking in Zambia is also supposed to be fantastic so maybe that would be a good place to head next.

[graceland]

@Twaffel,I know what you are saying. I constantly plan a "return" on paper - just in case the time and money become available! Even if I go alone...Jud just feels there are so many places yet to be discovered and the few times we've returned to a fav. place, something was missing.

 

So we made a pact to keep going as a couple traveling and finding the new. However that does not mean if a slot becomes available I'd not take it!

 

Thank you for following along on our Zim trip. I am enjoying reliving it myself.

 

Illala was special to us, though I know others found it barren. A chance to move amongst the hippos and crocs; my biggest fear

I overcame it!

[graceland]

]Ilala is a lovely off the beaten path site along the river near Chickwenya; and for us a bit different in safari feel. More of "fish" camp and we liked it quite a bit. More relaxing after three huge days - and two previous travel days. A good break.

 

There is a resident bull who follows us around, through camp, along the banks of the Zambezi, but always in camp!

 

That evening we take the canoes across to the island in front of Ilala. Fishing in mind; bait for the next day's tiger fish championship. Because Craig told us not to take anything we would not want to "lose" - did that include myself?

 

Sorry no pics. I certainly would not want to lose my camera But a great time with the three of us trying to outwit one another with our fishing skills. And a superb canoeist/fisherman, Tisch from Camp joined us.

 

Let's see, I caught the first breem and the last.....and 10 more in between.

We left with l4 in our bucket, so...just sayin

 

Because the fish were fast and furious we were a bit late in canoeing back...the sun was setting and the hippos out. Craig and I were in one canoe and he just said, Hippo Coming, PADDLE!.

 

Whether that was to get me off my arse and do some paddling, I do not know......but I paddled my heart out. Sweat pouring off me; breathing hard; not daring to look towards the hippo I note out the corner of my eye.

 

SO exhausted when we reached our riverbank, the guys had to literally pull me out - well lift up and out. If not for Able handing me a G&T and Kishmo preparing yet another superb dinner, I would have passed out.

 

A fun evening swapping fish tales and off to another great sleep in Craig's tents.

 

Will skip through the next am when we took a long walk into the woods - not a lot of game but beautiful and we are always game for walks.

 

We did pass these guys -

 

 

saw quite a few baboons - they seem to be everywhere, but just nice to get out and walk through a dry river bed; keeping an eye out for Action!

 

 

That evening we had the Big Game Tiger Fish Contest with Craig showing off his style

 

 

Time flew, sun was setting but camp elies still with us

 

 

Jud not giving up

 

 

And ending with a gorgeous sunset over the Zambezi

 

 

Winners:

 

Criag - largest ever Tiger I ever saw - 12 lbs?

 

Jud - Best effort on the spin by a flyfisherman

 

Tish - Huge Catfish (one of the camp's team members) who assisted me by putting worms on my hook non-stop..great teamwork

 

Nancy - Honorary Canoeist who braved the waters of the Zambezi being chased by hippos and crocs (though that was my nightmare; not sure it really happened!

 

Knowing we have to leave these guys in the morning from Craig's Mobile I took a few snaps as they are so hardworking and care so much for their guests

 

Bravo Team Craig - Hope to see all of youall again!

 

 

OFF to Rhino Camp -- who told me the lions were gone?

[Soukous]

I'm really enjoying reading about your Zimbabwe experiences @@graceland. Loving the photos too. It is alwasy fascinating ( to me anyway) to see how other people capture places I am familiar with.

It s quite weird though as I am reading about places that I have now just come back from.

 

When we were in Hwange and Mana the air quality was appalling. so much dust and smoke that the sun never set, it just slowly disappeared into the haze. Your photos suggest you didn't have the same problem.

 

I now have a real dilemma. I like to get my trip reports out of the way as quickly as possible, simply because if I don't do them straight away I will never make the time.

But I'm enjoying your TR and I know that @@Game Warden and @@Safaridude have one in the pipeline too, so it doesn't seem right to flood ST with 3 Zim reports all at once.

 

Perhaps I should write mine but not post it until you guys have finished - just to keep Zimbabwe TR's going as long as possible.

[graceland]

I'm really enjoying reading about your Zimbabwe experiences @@graceland. Loving the photos too. It is alwasy fascinating ( to me anyway) to see how other people capture places I am familiar with.

It s quite weird though as I am reading about places that I have now just come back from.

 

When we were in Hwange and Mana the air quality was appalling. so much dust and smoke that the sun never set, it just slowly disappeared into the haze. Your photos suggest you didn't have the same problem.

 

I now have a real dilemma. I like to get my trip reports out of the way as quickly as possible, simply because if I don't do them straight away I will never make the time.

But I'm enjoying your TR and I know that @@Game Warden and @@Safaridude have one in the pipeline too, so it doesn't seem right to flood ST with 3 Zim reports all at once.

 

Perhaps I should write mine but not post it until you guys have finished - just to keep Zimbabwe TR's going as long as possible.

@@Soukous, thank you for reading my report! I remember we were not lucky to cross paths...and I missed GW and SD as well.

 

Funny so many of us chose Zim this year. After my Ruaha adventure I was looking for MORE -- and Zim sure came through.

 

I certainly wouldn't mind reading about your own experiences NOW, as we all have different takes on what we do and see. Also as a PRO I'd LOVE to see your photos....and hear about your experiences.

At least get it down and slip it in- I think everyone would love it.

 

I have now left Mana in my report and heading to Matusadona....Did you go as well? An exceptional three nights; I could have stayed longer!

 

There were times I did not pull a camera out as it was very dusty, but we never saw smoke. I thought the weather was delightful; not as hot as I had expected for sure.

 

But I'd never go in October, even if @@Whyone? let me join his boys' trip! Everyone was talking about the heat to come.....

 

Thanks again for your kind comments.

[graceland]

@ Game Warden or back up

 

Oh dear how did I get a double post?? Appreciate a delete dear Moderators; I know folks dont want this section twice!

 

Txs

[twaffle]

Graceland, I think you and Jud have a good point on returning to a place and finding something missing. I often have that sense of melancholy on returning somewhere and that must have a lot to do with memories of the wonder, excitement and anticipation of the first visit. That can't ever be recaptured. But there is an extra layer of something wonderful returning to a place visited previously which I find entrancing. Being able to dig a little deeper than I perhaps was able to on the first visit, or appreciating other things which were overwhelmed in the initial excitement. I'm not sure, but I hope that you are able to return one day to one of these places, even if on your own or with some ST friends as it would be interesting if you found something different but even more fulfilling. Time will tell.

 

In the meantime, keep on with your excellent adventures.

[Game Warden]

Sorted

[graceland]

Sorted

Thanks @@Game Warden for the help; are you and S'dude waiting for me to finish so you can get on with the good stuff?

 

I can write up the next 3 camps in one sentence.

 

Really I can.