From Meru To Mara

[michael-ibk]

Thanks, @@Safaridude , @@Marks , @@Sangeeta , @@Zim Girl , @@TonyQ and @@madaboutcheetah , all your comments are much appreciated.

 

On to the

 

Aberdares

 

We crossed through Isiolo on the way South again, and passed parts of the fenced Elephant corridor linking the areas around Mt. Kenya with the northern regions like Lewa and further up. There´s even an underpass beneath the Nanyuki-Meru highway now. The elephants and other animals are using the corridor, they seem to have realized that it provides safety for them.

 

In Nanyuki we of course had to stop at the Equator. I took a childish delight in standing with my left foot North and with my right foot South of it.

 

 

Apart from being beleaguered by numerous women shouting in my ear that I definitely should come to THEIR shop I quite enjoyed a demonstration of the coriolis effect a guy showed to us with nothing but a bowl with a hole, some matches and water.

 

The matches spun clockwise in the North, and counter-clockwise just one step farther South. Right at the equator there was no spin at all. Likewise, the water leaking out from the hole spiralled in different directions, only on the equator there was a perfect straight waterline. A fascinating physics lesson, though I have no clue how this works.

 

 

I had to reward the man not only with a tip but also by visiting his colleague´s tent. Well, I needed some souvernirs and was in a bargaining mood anyway and spent a good quarter debating the worth of some "handmade" souvenirs. USD 100,-- was a bit of a brazen start by my "opponent", so I countered with USD 3,--.

 

Further down South James took a shortcut, a gravel road, and we passed Solio Game Reserve here.

 

 

We then arrived at Sandai Farm at about noon. Will cover this place in the next post, absolutely loved it! It´s about 25 minutes from here to Treetops Gate, and after a fabulous lunch, some rest and a bit exploring of our new accomodations we finally arrived at the Aberdares National Park at about 15.45.

 

 

The Park covers the higher regions of the Aberdares mountains, encompassing more than 750 km² from an altitude of 1829 up to 4001m. The usual way of visiting it is a stay in either The Ark or Treetops, the two well-known waterhole-lodges within the park. That didn´t appeal very much to me, one cannot just drive there with one´s own guide and then do further game drives within the park. No, you have to go to either the Aberdares Country Club or the Outspan Hotel, are there collected with a bus and then brought to the lodges where you stay the night and watch what´s coming to the saltlicks and waterhole. Game Drives are possible, but at an extra price, and private vehicle would be even more costly. Since we had our own car and guide and also wanted to see more of the park itself (not just one waterhole) we decided to go for a different option and explore the park more thoroughly.

 

 

We were warned that we should not expect to see too many animals and were ok with that, we were more coming here for the scenery.

 

 

Here at Treetops Gate it´s very jungle-like, thick vegetation, green everywhere around us, wafts of mist wandering through the trees. I immediately fell deeply in love with this place, so very different from Meru and Samburu, such a different part of Africa. And such tranquility! Not one single car for the rest of this game drive, the Aberdares were all ours!

 

 

And to our surprise we saw plenty of animals! There are several openings where they like to come out, and you just need to know where to go. James certainly did!

 

 

Buffalo were abundant, and could pop out of the bushes crossing the road anytime. Incredible how quickly they became invisible again after leaving the road - we had 10 animals crossing the road once and five seconds later you would have no chance of spotting them again.

 

 

It must be paradise here for them, with plenty of food all year, and so it was very noticeable how much bigger they are.

 

 

Also true for warthogs which were incredibly numerous as well - they were huge!

 

 

If you like Bushbucks, this is the place to go. We saw lots of them, albeit all shy and keeping their distance.

 

 

Many Baboons were around.

 

 

Another species all over the place was the Defassa-Waterbuck (the toiletseat-less one):

 

 

The most impressive sighting of the afternoon was this big tusker coming towards us.

 

 

James didn´t take chances with him and reversed for several 100ms, this guy was quite grumpy and didn´t appreciate us being in the way here. He pushed us back further and further (not enough space to turn) but finally he had enough of his macho "This-is-my-road" game and stepped into the forest. Like the buffaloes, he was completely invisible immediately. Just amazing how they can disappear like that!

 

We saw about 10 other elephants this afternoon.

 

At the end ouf our gamedrive James drove down a very narrow, steep path. It was pretty dark by now. Suddenly I spotted some big black shape further down on the path in the distance. Buffalo? It was big enough but no - this was something more special: A Giant Forest Hog! It disappeared as soon as we tried to get closer, of course, but I was absolutely delighted to have seen this shy, unique animal.

 

 

Then, suddenly, the road was just gone! Half of the path had just broken off, there was no way to proceed here. Unfortunately, there was also no way to turn around. Good to have an unswerving guy like James at the wheel, he just shrugged and reversed up the steep path for more than a km! It was quite a relief when he finally found a spot to turn around, and we even managed to leave the park in time.

 

I had had some doubts if going to the Aberdares would be a good experience. Now I was absolutely wowed by this place, more than that, I was enchanted with the serene tranquility of this jungle. I´m not even sure why, but I was deeply moved by this green haven with giants of animals possibly hiding just metres away in the thickish. It had such an archaic, prehistoric feel to it which made a deep impact on me. Just loved it.

 

After a wonderful dinner I went to bed, tired but fulfilled with all the new impressions of this day. When I turned around I squealed (in an admittedly very unmanly, whimpish way I have to add) - I had touched something warm and wobbly in my bed! Animal!? Cat?!? Genet?!? Snake?!?! (Not very logical thinking, I know. )

 

It was, of course, my first bedwarming hot-water-bottle.

Edited October 30, 2014 by michael-ibk

[graceland]

@@michael-ibk,

 

Between events at home & some light travel, my peeking into latest ST reports has been hasty; but I had to go back to Samburu before beginning your Aberdares adventure as the photos were so lovely - the grevy zebras, the reticulated giraffe, the leopard! And the scenery! Just perfect. As others, now I wish I could readily return to Kenya.

 

But will just enjoy reading on as I imagine it is as well going to be quite delightful and photo rich.

 

Very enjoyable to tag along

[TonyQ]

@@michael-ibk

Aberdares looks loveley - so green. The elephant walking up the path looks great against that background. Well done on seeing the Forest Hog

[michael-ibk]

Thanks, @@TonyQ and @@graceland .

The first park is something very special, I will never forget my first day in Arusha. Though that was not in 1980 - more like 2011 for me. Did you stay in the Ark back then? Were Bongos already as rare a sight as today?

I asked one of the park rangers about them, they see them quite regularly, albeit deep within the forest, always away from the roads. As a tourist your chances are close to zero however, Petra (see below), who´s constantly visiting the park has had only one sighting all her life.

Even worse about Black Panthers. The park is still advertised with this possibility, but even the rangers haven´t seen one for many, many years. The waiter of Sandai Farm, however, swears he saw one around the farm some years ago, and a sighting was reported from the Aberdares Country Club in that same timeframe.

Sandai Farm

As mentioned before we didn´t want to go to the Ark or Treetops, and the Country Club didn´t much appeal either. Originally I intended to stay in the Fishing Lodge, one of the KWS bandas, like Atravelynn and Twaffle did, but for several reasons this didn´t work out. So, when I was already thinking of ditching the Aberdares @@Patty saved the day by suggesting the Sandai Farm (http://www.africanfootprints.de/en/) in my trip planning thread. And I so, so thank her for it.



What a gem this place is!

This didn´t feel like being a guest paying for accomodations at all, it was more like visiting old friends in their house! Sandai is run by Petra Allmendinger, and from the minute we arrived to the minute we left we felt so welcome, so much "at home", that we would have loved to stay longer than our short two nights. Much, much longer!

Without ever being intrusive Petra is the most perfect hostess I have ever met. Within moments one feels like knowing her, and it´s so easy and delightful to talk with her about all kind of stuff. And having been in Africa for the better part of her life she of course has tons of interesting stories about Kenya to tell - conservation, her neighbours, poverty and richness, corruption, politics, wildlife, tribal problems and interactions. She´s a fascinating conversationalist, and in just a few hours of talking I think I learned more about the country than I´ve read before in lots of books. Not just talks with her, she´s very active in her community, ran a children´s home in Isiolo and will shortly open a new one around Nanyuki, and has lots of projects running, like a tree-planting one.

The farmhouse itself is very charming and tastefully furnished. All guests share meals at one big table, with Petra joining in. Dinner is not served in the traditional sense. Just like you would do at home they brings big pots, bowls and pans to the table, and everyone serves himself. And food was absolutely delicious, be it the home-made lasagna or a mouth-watering beef stew. Oh, and the caramelized pineapple! Mmmmmh! Before dinner everyone gathers in front of the fireplace, swaps stories, enjoys fingerfood and drinks. More drinks afterwards, and we had good fun playing a game of "Mensch Ärger Dich Nicht" (apparently Ludo or Parcheesi in the English-speaking world). Really loved those evenings.

Not too many guests there, on our first evening there was a family of three, and another couple, plus Camille, member of Petra´s family. Just us, Camille and Petra on our second evening.The farm has a few rooms inside the main building, and a few small bungalows which we used. All in all, I don´t think there´s capacitiy for more than 10 guests.

Our cottage:







Lots of birds to see on the grounds.



Kenya Rufous Sparrow



Baglafecht Weaver

And some very special pets. I am very much a dog person, and so was delighted to meet Lukas, Roxa and little rascal Charlie. Such confiding dogs, every morning when we got up and out of our bungalow they were there to greet us, and would always join when we would wander around the premises.







Lady Roxy (on the ground) and Lukas



Little Charlie and me.

There´s some (fenced) game reserve neighbouring the farm, we would see Elands, Zebras, Impalas and Thompson´s when wandering around. Excitingly Petra told us they even have a pack of Wild Dogs around, she sees them from time to time. (And is of course not always thrilled to meet them, they killed little Charlie´s predecessor. ) Originally the pack was huge, 40 members, then it split in two. (The locals are less excited, Kenyans are afraid of the dogs, and it would of course be so easy to just poison them ... let´s just hope for the best.



The fireplace where we would spend the evenings



The breakfast and dining room. (Lunch was taken outside on the terrace.)

Mount Kenya could be in good view from the farm, but it always hid in clouds.



So, I really cannot recommend this place highly above - it was just wonderful. (See, no need for "balanced reviews" anymore. ) Will return there for sure, I hope sooner than later. It´s the perfect base for visiting the Aberdares and Solio (about half an hour each), and Mt. Kenya and Ol Pejeta are close as well.

Edited December 14, 2018 by michael-ibk

[Patty]

I'm so glad you enjoyed the Aberdares and Sandai. We've taken that Solio shortcut several times. It's truly amazing how the elephants disappear. I hope you made it to the moorlands as well. Looking forward to more!

 

 

And is of course not always thrilled to meet them, they killed little Charlie´s predecessor.

 

Oh no! Not Oscar, the jack russell?! We nicknamed him Oscari cause he'd always insist on escorting us from dinner back to our cottage but then he'd insist on sleeping in our cottage too. I don't know if he was trying to keep us safe or the other way around. I was worried something would eventually get him.

Edited October 30, 2014 by Patty

[michael-ibk]

@@Patty

I´m very sorry, but I´m afraid that´s him. I seem to remember Petra mentioning that the victim was a Jack Russel.

Next morning started with a little hiccup - we had booked a ranger to escort us for a walk in the highlands for this day. But none showed up at the park headquarters. I was getting a bit frustrated, but then thought of something Twaffle once wrote in a trip report featuring the Aberdares:

"We are, after all, on African time."

Somehow just thinking of that cheered me up, and - as it always does - the problem resolved itself quickly. Instead for waiting anylonger we just drove to the gate, and luckily, one of the rangers there was available and soon Thomas, our armed protector for the day, said hello and hopped into the car. All good, ready to go!



Red-Rumped Swallow



Greater Blue-Eared Starling

Yesterday we had spent our time in the Salient, the low-zone area of the park. Today, we wanted to get up much higher, to the moorlands. It´s a long drive up there, almost 50 km. But the usual suspects (Buffalo, Baboon, Warthog, Waterbuck, Jackson´s Francolin) were always around to entertain.





We ever saw another Giant Forest Hog, but it immediately left the road and hid into the bushes after it spotted us.

And another new species for this trip - the Guereza Colobus.



Great vistas on the way up, it was easy to imagine living Black Panther and Bongo living in the impenetrable forest here.





I was excited when I saw two Turacos flying across the road, but it was impossible to find them.



Plenty of Bushbucks crossing the road, and this very accomodating male even stayed around for a few seconds to enable a pic.





Vegetation changed the higher we got, bamboo started to domineer.



Here we had a great sighting of some Syke´s Monkeys, another first.



And then the vegetation started to thin out, the lush green gave way to browner grass and old trees covered with thick lichen. (We call them "Altmännerbärte", ie. "Old Men´s Beards" in German.)





We had reached the highlands of the Aberdares.

[Treepol]

@@michael-ibk its so good to see a report on the less visited Aberdare NP, and an update on Sandai. Tree Tops and the Ark don't appeal to me much but Sandai certainly does.

 

Did you hear anything about the current state of elephant-human interactions around Mt Kenya? Good to hear that they have recognised the safety provided by the tunnel - I think Ian Douglas Hamilton was instrumental in the creation of the corridor and in monitoring its use.

 

Great photo of the giant forest hog and very interesting to hear about the super-sized buffalo and warthogs.

Edited October 30, 2014 by Treepol

[SafariChick]

Really enjoying this report, but especially loved the Aberdare part - I think I would really love it there as you did - the scenery is great and I also loved that big tusker and the background. And the giant forest hog - really cool!

[Sangeeta]

Agree with everyone here that the Aberdares, from your base at Sandai, looks incredible. What a great recommendation by Patty! Thanks for sharing. The wildlife and the scenery came through for you in spades. The giant hog, the big ele, the bushbuck, the monkeys and so much more.

 

Also, thanks to your report here, Michael, I have learnt that it is possible to do day trips into Solio! I had no idea they allowed this at all. This is a great option for the people who cannot pay the high $$$ for the ranch house.

[Zim Girl]

@@michael-ibk

 

The Aberdares look amazing. So much for "don't expect to see many animals" !

 

Sandai looks like a very good accommodation option. What were the temperatures like when you were there?

[madaboutcheetah]

Michael, Aberdares in a way reminds me of one of the hill stations here in India (don't know why) - but, far more wildlife and very few people ..... Wonderful!!!

[Kitsafari]

Like the others, the Aberdares look very appealing to me too. I was reading this in an Aircon room and I could just feel the cool air from your reports! Silly me.

 

That is a good shot of the red rumpled swallow. Such a pretty bird. And great sightings of e forest hog n Skye's monkey.

[graceland]

Michael, I can spend hours looking at the landscapes of Africa; Aberdares fits right in there; quite lush...

 

Looking forward to your time there

[michael-ibk]

Thank you all!

 

@@michael-ibk Did you hear anything about the current state of elephant-human interactions around Mt Kenya? Good to hear that they have recognised the safety provided by the tunnel - I think Ian Douglas Hamilton was instrumental in the creation of the corridor and in monitoring its use.

Great photo of the giant forest hog and very interesting to hear about the super-sized buffalo and warthogs.

 

@@Treepol

 

And Kudu-sized Bushbucks.

Sorry, no, we didn´t talk about the elephants in detail, just that they were accepting the corridors. There´s even a lodge at the underpath of the highway, advertising elephant corridor experiences.

 

Also, thanks to your report here, Michael, I have learnt that it is possible to do day trips into Solio! I had no idea they allowed this at all. This is a great option for the people who cannot pay the high $$$ for the ranch house.

 

It was new to me, too, @@Sangeeta . Whenever I had read about Solio I had quickly dismissed it as an option, it is very costly staying inside. But doing daytrips there is apparently a staple activity for Sandai visitors, the fee for Solio is USD 90,--/day. Add the cost of a vehicle (EUR 245,-- per car per day at Sandai), and this really is a very good option.

 

@@michael-ibk

 

Sandai looks like a very good accommodation option. What were the temperatures like when you were there?

 

@@Zim Girl

 

Well, it is cool in the mornings and evenings, and pretty frosty at night. When we started our game drive I put on my fleece jacket (which I rarely do). But during the day, even high up at the moorlands (more than 3.000 m altitude) it still got pretty warm, I´d say more than 20 degrees, possibly more. It was pleasant walking in the sun, but was a bit cool when the sun was behind clouds.

 

Michael, Aberdares in a way reminds me of one of the hill stations here in India (don't know why) - but, far more wildlife and very few people ..... Wonderful!!!

 

Had to google the "hill stations", but now I can see why it reminds you of that. We have similar landscapes at home, and it was very interesting to find this in Africa.

[michael-ibk]

We had reached an altitude of way more than 3000 m above sea level now. And here, having passed the forest line, the landscape is akin to the Scottish highlands - vast moorlands as far as one can see.







Not sure anymore, but I think that´s Ol Donyo Lesatima, the Aberdare´s highest mountain (4001m) in the background.




Here we got out of the car and walked a few kilometres with Thomas, our ranger. The tranquility was wonderful, only a few birds could be heard now and then, otherwise everything was still and calm.

In the distance we could see buffaloes from time to time. Thomas told us that this was the prime area for seeing Serval, and here they have many melanistic ones. As mentioned before, the Black Panther is more of a myth these days - even the rangers haven´t seen one for many, many years. Animals up here are scarce, most keep to the lower-level zones of the park. What predators can be found in the Aberdars? There are Spotted Hyenas around. Striped Hyenas prefer the moorlands, though they are rarely seen. Leopards are very common and can be found everywhere in the park, and sightings are not too hard - some are very relaxed. (Petra showed me a killer photo of one.) Lions are almost gone, there´s apparently one pride left in the Southern end of the park. No cheetahs. As a Big Five park the Aberdares do have (Black) Rhino), and there are plans to establish a Meru-like sanctuary for them.

After a few km we reached Chania waterfalls:







Crystal clear water.



We walked down to the bottom. A steep path, and very slippery, so we had to take care. But more than worth it when you can enjoy this view all on your own.



Back at the top we would meet some other tourists - they would remain the only other guests we would see all day long.



Our guide James (who had waited here with the car for us) and our companion for the day, park ranger Thomas.

Edited November 3, 2014 by michael-ibk

[michael-ibk]

After Chania we drove a bit, it would have been too far to walk all the way to our next stop - Karuru Waterfalls. It still was a distance of about 10 km we had to cover on foot. The sun was shining, sunbirds were buzzing around, and every breath of the clear alpine air just felt good.





We saw several Bushbucks, but they all would quickly run as soon as they saw us. There was also a reedbuck, which was gone even faster.



We (=Thomas) then found a beautiful tiny Helmeted Chameleon. Definitely something one would never spot from a car.

On the way we passed the turn-off to the KWS Fishing Lodge.





This Waterbuck was quite curious about us.



Meet Safaritalk lurker @@AndMic :







This inconspicous LBJ is an Aberdare Cisticola, I believe, an endemic species here.

 

We were very careful here when the path turned into a kind of alley, thick bushes flanking it from both sides. Elephant and buffalo droppings and spoor were very fresh, and we didn´t want to be surprised by some grumpy giant around a corner. This exciting alertness just enhanced the experience - and made the walk even more enjoyable.

 

 

Sunbirds were numerous here, but it was very hard to get pics of these tiny beauties, especially since it was very windy, and even when they were resting for the shortest of times their perch was shaking very much.

 

 

Eastern Double-Collared Sunbird

 

Just when we had almost arrived we had to wait for this "little" guy to make way for us - on foot even a small ele looks quite impressive!

 

[michael-ibk]

The little guy was obviously not well, and all alone up here. Thomas thought that he was too weak to go on, and had been left behind by his herd. He would contact KWS to get him treatment, and afterwards it had to be hoped that he would find a new herd he could join. Similar to what I wrote in Hari´s report about Malaika and her cubs I was conflicted about that. I did think that this was an unnecessary intervention, that nature should be allowed to take its course. But the emotional softy inside me felt differently, and today I still think about this youngster and hope that all ended well for him.

 

I didn´t have time to ponder this for long, more and more clouds were gathering, and we really wanted to avoid the underground getting even wetter where we were going down to now - Karuru Waterfalls!

 

Water falls down 273 metres here over three steps. Everywhere we would look from there, there was just jungle. Civilisation seemed like an abstract concept, this place felt so untouched, so powerful and beautiful that it was like being in a different world.

 

Nobody else was here of course, the roads are not easy for cars, so few people come here. This miracle was all ours, and I soaked it all in, being totally overwhelmed by this place. I´ve been to Iguacu and Victoria Falls, and they are of course magnificent. But for me, Karuru has to be the most beautiful waterfalls I have ever seen, and it is probably the single hour of this whole safari which really wowed me most. It´s such an unspoilt haven down there that it was easy imagining herds of Bongos happily leading their lifes down there, undisturbed by humanity.

 

This was the platform we were standing on.

 

 

Several smaller waterfalls were opposite of us, like this one.

 

It was hard to leave this place, beautiful as it was, but eventually we went up again, and enjoyed a very late, delicious lunch with a very welcome ice-cold Tusker Sandai had packed us, looking over the moorlands.

 

 

[michael-ibk]

It was almost 17.00 by now, and since we had to cover the 50 kms down to the gate again we really had to get going. Worse, it started to rain a bit, and the roads would be no fun at all when muddy. James had told us that we had little time for stops. Except for elephants, of course. It just feels somewhat unreal seeing them at an altitude of more than 3000 m above sea level.

 

On the way down we saw many Bushbucks crossing the road, and more and more buffalos the lower we got. A flock of Hartlaub´s Turacos flying over excited me, but all of them were hiding deep inside the trees and were obscured by the leaves. Just when I had lost hope to still get a pic of one, this nice guy obviously pitied me and presented himself out in the open:

 

 

Silvery-Cheeked Hornbill

 

 

Down at the Salient we came across this scene:

 

 

We expected this to get ugly and see a little action - but no, the Hyenas and Warthogs were just sniffing each other, acting like they were best pals!

 

 

One of the warthogs had its tail chewed off. James mused that they must have fought at some time, and that both species had learned to respect each other. Obviously they had come to some kind of truce. "They are friends now", James laughed, "Who knows, maybe they even share a burrow." Interesting thought.

 

The Warthogs were off quickly, but the Hyenas were totally relaxed, fooling around, curiously eyeing us and then almost falling asleep on the road.

 

It was almost 18:30, and we had to leave. It was their time now, and our time in the Aberdares was over - next morning we would already be heading to Nakuru.

While the Aberdares are obviously not as game-rich as other parks, like Samburu for example, and even though we would have spectacular sightings later on in the Mara - for me, this day spent up on the highlands was an absolute highlight of the whole trip, probably even my favourite day.

[madaboutcheetah]

Beautiful scenery, Michael ..... The silvery cheeked hornbill is beautiful - I've not seen one. Probably one of those species only seen in high elevation?

[Zim Girl]

The scenery and waterfalls of the Aberdares looks amazing. @@michael-ibk. It definitely looks like a Park I would like to visit.

Interestingly, when I was talking to Moli in Ruaha, I asked him what one Park in Kenya would he most recommend, and he said the Aberdares.

[Treepol]

@@michael-ibk what amazing scenery high in the Aberdares, such a conrast to Samburu.

 

Great shots of the chameleon, turaco and hornbill.

[TonyQ]

@@michael-ibk

The scenery certainly is beautiful and you capture it so well - it looks like a wonderful place. I can understand your think/feel dilemma over the baby elephant.

 

The video of the chameleon is great - I love the way it moves!

 

Well done on seeing your turaco - and the hornbill is spectacular.

[Marks]

Very handsome hyenas, I always like when they look especially fluffy like that. Must have been rather interesting to see them with the warthogs, too.

[Atravelynn]

Oh my, the martial eagle series! Wouldn't you agree that over the last trips your bird photo skills have really taken off? Pun sort of intended.

So far in this report I have also noted the abundance of predation or dining in the bush. Everybody seems to have a mouthful! And there is such exceptional variety in both the diners and the dinners that you had the privilege to witness.

 

I am glad @@Marks and @@Sangeeta mentioned the enticingly winding roads. I noticed that but could not quite describe the similarities in the different shots. Nice winding, wide rivers too. From roads to birds to the properties, you've captured it all!

 

My blood boils at "the amount of plastic waste" which you mentioned, whether in Kenya or anywhere else.

[FlyTraveler]

I have so much to catch-up @@michael-ibk ... What a great experience at Aberdares. The bushbucks really are on steroids there I keep enjoying your photography and writing very much! Looking forward to Lake Nakuru, my very first African park back in... 2013