Zimbabwe - One Hundred %

[ld1]

The next day the temperature spiked and our walk out into the bush in search of Buffalo took its toll on me. The temperature and the dry scrub made me feel a bit like I was in the French foreign legion. We were rewarded with lunch set-up over-looking the spring and the fish and chips were a culinary triumph from the Tailormade kitchen. This is where the lilley-livered tourist in me took over and hence forth the use of chairs in Chitake became a theme. That evening we returned to the spring and the chairs which we had left like beach-towels in a prime spot, and watched the pre-historic world go by.

 

 

 

 

Chair-gate as it turned into, became a bit of a running joke and whilst Doug did his very best to oblige, he just couldn’t stop himself taking the mickey. Following a sterling attempt to make me a chair out of logs and a stint in a throne like comfy chair at the edge of the spring I conceded defeat and we spent the rest of the trip sat in the dirt as it should be.

 

[ld1]

Back to the game, we had stupendous Buffalo sightings at Chitake, three herds in all and you can’t really beat a big herd of buffalo for that sense of nature in all its wild glory; the dust, the power, the skittishness sort of sums up an African safari in a single glorious vista.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One of last places we went to was “the quarry”. Doug thought it might have been where the original inhabitants hand quarried stone for building and tools. It certainly had an odd feeling about it, with these little piles of off cuts everywhere and such a variety of different minerals it was hard to see how the place could have evolved that way naturally.

 

 

Our final night saw the wind whip up and we slept fitfully as the tent shook every few minutes. It was a little like being stuck on a very turbulent flight for 7 hours. It was humbling to hear the wind die down for an instant only to listen to it pick up miles away and follow it rumbling across the wilderness until it hit the Baobabs and tents. It’s a very eerie sound the wind through the Baobabs and I don’t really have a word to describe it but you can imagine how people believed it to be the spirits of their ancestors. Especially as there were no animals sounds as everything hunkered down for the night.

 

We thought the Buffalo were going to be the highlight of Chitake and they kind of were, but we were handsomely rewarded on our final morning by some of the other inhabitants. We drove out a little and whilst looking for Lion we unintentionally found a Cheetah sprinting out of a thicket. No pictures I am afraid as it was a fleeting encounter and I am not sure who was startled more us or the Cheetah. A few minutes later we find a pack of dogs (so we are Doggin with Doug again) and what we thought was going to be a sleepy goodbye to Chitake turned out to be a pretty special one.

 

 

 

 

[wilddog]

Cheetah - wonderful not often sighted there. A special moment.

[ld1]

@@wilddog A special moment indeed and it was a massive kitty! I don't think I ever appreciated how big Cheetah are. I haven't seen one for 14 years (since a trip to the Serengeti) and it was much taller and longer than I remember. Maybe something to do with the perspective you get on foot. Anyway, a real treat to be suprised by one in such an unlikely location. About 20 seconds later the dogs were running past us and it was all a bit crazy, hard to explain the excitment. Sometimes sightings are memorable simply for there unexpectedness and fleeting nature. This was definitely one of those "...remeber when that Cheetah sprang past us in chitake..." moments, best recounted over a leisurely glass of wine.

[Zim Girl]

Wonderful pictures of Chitake.

 

And to find cheetah and dogs too!! Fantastic.

[michael-ibk]

That buffalo herd experience must have been awesome,and your pics captured that perfectly! Cheetah, wow, how unexpected, I don´t even remember a trip report here on Mana Pools featuring one. Lucky you!

[Marks]

The obscured elephant reflection is one of the more artistic shots I've seen recently...very nice!

[ld1]

@@Zim Girl and @@michael-ibk thanks very much for the nice comments. The buffalo were amazing and we saw so many we were very very lucky as its impossible to predict when they will arrive. They are also silent and so you could be walking up the spring and round the corner could be a huge herd that you miss completely. It was quite strange that they are so quiet but I understand its to reduce attracting the attention of predators. The Cheetah was great too.

 

@@Marks Thanks, I wish I could claim credit but MrR took that picture - he is the artistic one as he draws them when we get home too!

Edited October 15, 2014 by ld1

[ld1]

Chikwenya - Its the small luxuries...

 

So we land at Chikwenya after almost no sleep and the sight of a tiled shower and flush loo has us all as giddy as kippers. We all loved mobile camping and I am not sure I will ever go back to a fully-fledged lodge/permanent camp safari where a decent mobile option is on offer. But boy was that hot shower without a stinging wind good and the simple luxury of going to the loo without scrabbling around in the dark for a tin cup of dirt should not be underestimated.

 

Chikwenya is in a lovely spot and the rooms are huge, well-appointed and with a little minor repair could be twice the price I fear. So my hope is they don’t ever get around to making all the little fixes as in theory this place should be top dollar and it would be a bit of a shame if it were to become so and head out of a lot of peoples price range. Primarily a fishing camp these days there is still enough game walking and driving to while away the last couple of days in comfort. Neels and Debbie were wonderful hosts and I hope they make Chikwenya their home for a long time.

 

 

 

We saw lots of Ele's and Crocs in Chikwenya, here are a few of them!

 

 

 

 

Edited October 15, 2014 by ld1

[TonyQ]

@@ld1

The photos of the herd of buffalo capture the feeling really well. And a great picture of wild dog!

[ld1]

@@TonyQ the best of the dog sightings is yet to come

[Sangeeta]

@@ld1 - hmmm, looking at how your trip has progressed, I'm getting a sneaking suspicion that I may know what's coming next with those dogs! Looking forward to hearing all about it!

[Marks]

@@Marks Thanks, I wish I could claim credit but MrR took that picture - he is the artistic one as he draws them when we get home too!

 

Have any of his drawings made it onto ST yet?

[ld1]

@@Sangeeta

 

@@Marks there is half a leopard in "show us your art" which he has has picked up again following the trip to Zim and me nagging him to finish it before starting a wild dog drawing....he said he's never drawing anything with spots again!

http://safaritalk.net/topic/12803-show-us-your-artwork/

[Kitsafari]

whew that picture of the buffalo in the dust is so vivid that i can hear the hooves of the buffalo as they turn and move away. great shot.

 

I am really looking forward to your wild dog adventures next!

[ld1]

Tnanks guys, before the wild dog finale....

 

Of course being by the Zambezi we had to go out on the water and we spent our first evening puttering around the shallows watching crocs, Ele’s and birds do their thing as the sun set. DrS tried his hand at tiger fishing and caught what looked like a 4kg tigerfish which I was relieved to see was immediately set free. We managed to get stuck on a sandbank and Doug and the boat guide did a sterling job of pushing us off it whilst we dithered like idiots wondering if we should jump in or not.

 

 

 

I do like a boat safari and I’ve been on some great game-floats. Boats are all about quality not quantity, you get a different perspective and I always think it’s the best way to see Ele’s. Killing the engine and floating beneath one as they tower over you is an experience not to be missed.

 

 

 

 

So we pootle back to camp in the best landrover I’ve ever been in. I feel like Hawkeye out of Mash, it’s a miracle it’s held together and is testament to the hardiness of those vehicles (I should add it’s not the safari vehicle normally used for guests!).

 

 

 

Edited October 16, 2014 by ld1

[Atravelynn]

Louis Van Gaal, now I know who he is!

 

The drive in was a great idea. You really got to know the territory--and your guide!

 

You had such an abundance of wild dogs and hyenas and you got some good action shots of each. Doggin' with Doug is the perfect description!

 

Baobabs, baboons and ancient pottery relics, what an ambiance for the Cathedral site. The buffalo shots really convey the wildness of the park. To encounter one of the rare cheetah in the park is very lucky.

 

Your best ever ele shot is just adorable. Probably a tricky stance for the little guy. You followed up with some great ele shots, especially the classic browsing the tree limbs. Best dog sighting is yet to come.

Edited October 16, 2014 by Atravelynn

[ld1]

@@Atravelynn all you need now is to learn the offside rule and you'll be a fully fledged football, I mean soccer, fan! This trip was so special, so many great things to see in and say about Zim.

[ld1]

The next day we head out early looking for lions with Doug and Nathan the trainee guide at Chikwenya (and Neels and Debbie’s son). Of course the Lions had been sat in front of camp most of the day before we arrived but not a sniff of them today. All of sudden though the dogs are here, all hell breaks loose and I’m suddenly lying face down in the dirt with a pack of dogs devouring an impala carcass a few feet away – I just love it. We’ve been lucky enough to see dogs hunting at Lebala and it was super exciting, but lying feet away, huddled close to the vehicle, it really doesn’t get any better. My SD card is now full and I’m in a state of disbelief that I’m pigging about changing it whilst wriggling around in the dust surrounded by a pack of dogs. In the back of my mind I can hear my brother saying “try to keep dust off the camera”. Forget it, if you want to experience the full fat version of a safari get over the camera dust thing quickly and you’ll be richly rewarded. You can buy another camera but you may never see what you are looking at ever again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[michael-ibk]

Just wow! Great (and gory) stuff, the fourth pics is especially impressive!

[Game Warden]

That must have been an amazing experience @@ld1

[TonyQ]

@@ld1

What an experience, lying so close to that!

It is gory, but great pictures - I agree about No.4 - but No.6 is a great portrait - and the interaction in the last one!

[Zim Girl]

Absolutely brilliant stuff.

 

I have had a few close encounters with Wild Dogs, but nothing as amazing as this. You were so lucky and I am sure that experience will stay with you forever!

[Sar4h]

This has been a fantastic read @@ld1! Some really great pictures! Looks like Zimbabwe may be my next visit!

Edited October 17, 2014 by Sar4h

[wilddog]

Douga nd Chikwenya deliver on the dogs. An experience I am sure you will never forget @@ld1. And you did some great pictures. You are right - forget the dust and just enjoy.

 

I have always enjoyed a couple of nights at Chikwenya and recognise some of those dogs. Did you find the lions at all around Chikwenya ? I understand there were some changes in the pride in the last 12 months?