Ebb and Flow, ebb and flow in SLNP

[SafariChick]

oh yes the Itchy Ele was priceless - great shots! And gorgeous sunsets!

[egilio]

@@egilio what happened to the lions outside the hunting areas? were they poached or did they just wander into the hunting concessions and got shot as well? that's really tragic and hopefully the Zambian govt holds its nerves to keep the ban on hunting cats for many years to come. the lions really need the time to recover.

 

Outside the hunting areas? Which outside? There are lions in the National Parks, there are lions in the Game Management Areas bordering the national parks. Pretty much all Game Management Areas are hunting areas. Lions are not hunted in the national parks, but in the Game Management Areas, most snaring also happens in the Game Management Areas. Since the river forms the boundary of the park, and most lion prides have homeranges along the river, and they cross the river often (even in full flood) most lions spend at least some time outside the park.

[marg]

Kitsafari...we visited the man made springs area in 2007. It is like a trip down memory lane as my photos look so similar to yours and I am really enjoying your report. Do you think that this Carmine Bee-eater is at the same place?!

[Treepol]

Great photos of the itchy ele at a pint-sized ele scratching post.

 

What fabulous sightings on the night drive, genet, porcupine and a lioness with cubs. The standing genet is definitely a keeper.

Edited November 4, 2014 by Treepol

[Marks]

Great sightings, and so much atmosphere coming through with your photos.

 

Also thanks @@graceland for the Mosi-guard suggestion, I hadn't heard of that before either.

[TonyQ]

@@Kitsafari

Good to see the hot springs area and the cranes - we really enjoyed it there on our visit.

You have lots of great leopard sightings and pictures. That leopard being chase off by the guinea fowl is amazing (the video really helps appreciate this)

The leopard in the tree is beautiful

And I am glad your porcupine got away!

[optig]

I've had Patrick as my guide twice. He's bot only one of the finest guides you'll find anywhere; he's literally one of the funniest men I've ever met. On every game drive, and walk I was rolling over in laughter. He's a true gentleman.

[Kitsafari]

@@graceland I found Mosi Guard! they sell it in Kuala Lumpur (malaysia) and I bought 3 sticks. i'm regretting that I didn't get the spray as well.

 

but thanks for the tip!

[Kitsafari]

@@michael-ibk @@SafariChick @@Treepol @@Marks @@TonyQ thank you for the kind words!

 

@@optig He is an excellent guide and has a great sense of humour. He would imitate calls and most of them respond to him as well. we were really happy we were guided by him.

[Kitsafari]

@@marg that looks so similar to the our picture. was that taken at the delta as well? it could well be the same bird, since it's been 7 years. according to this link (http://library.sandiegozoo.org/factsheets/carmine_bee_eater/carmine_bee_eater.html),

 

carmine bee eaters live an average of 7 years. you have a beautiful shot of it!

[Kitsafari]

 

@@egilio what happened to the lions outside the hunting areas? were they poached or did they just wander into the hunting concessions and got shot as well? that's really tragic and hopefully the Zambian govt holds its nerves to keep the ban on hunting cats for many years to come. the lions really need the time to recover.

 

Outside the hunting areas? Which outside? There are lions in the National Parks, there are lions in the Game Management Areas bordering the national parks. Pretty much all Game Management Areas are hunting areas. Lions are not hunted in the national parks, but in the Game Management Areas, most snaring also happens in the Game Management Areas. Since the river forms the boundary of the park, and most lion prides have homeranges along the river, and they cross the river often (even in full flood) most lions spend at least some time outside the park.

 

 

 

@@egilio thanks for the info. the query was in response to your answer (below). I should have quoted your answer then it won't have been so confusing. a clearer question would have been where is ZCP's research area? i tried to look for the answer but I couldn't find it.

 

 

 

 

That's the number of male lions harvested in the hunting concessions within ZCP's research area...the total for the whole valley was a lot higher.

 

 

and thanks for following along my long-winded ramble.

[Kitsafari]

Next morning is our last morning at Tafika. We had wanted to stay here 4 nights but when we booked a few months ago, the place was fully booked which is testament to how popular and well liked the camp is. So we chose Mchenja camp, one of Norman Carr camps, to stay the other 2 nights.

 

We say our fond goodbyes to the Coppingers. we had a wonderful time and wished we could stay longer. Nsefu park definitely delivers in terms of leopards. there aren't any crowds in the northern side of the park as the Robin Pope camps (Tena tena and Nsefu camp) game drives don't overlap substantially.

 

Lloyd will drive us to the Tena Tena crossing, which is close to 4 hours’ drive via the Salt Pans route.It is a very pleasant drive down, passing the lovely mopane grove, the salt pans and then the hot springs and its little gentle stream lined with emerald green banks.

 

 

testing for wifi signals. the villagers often come to the mound for signals and if you are lucky you will get it. but not this morning.

 

3 hairy warthogs.

 

At the streams, we come across 3 hyenas feeding on a dead vulture. One of the hyenas has an ugly scar across its mouth to the back of its ear. This hyena had been caught in a snare and was sighted by Jennifer. She stayed with the hyena while calling in the Zawa and the South Luangwa Conservation Centre. They arrived quickly and removed the snare and the hyena recovered.

it’s a human-inflicted injury and there is no argument that the hyena should be helped in every way possible. Sadly, snares are still a major issue in the park.

 

The park serves as a walkway for villagers living up north to travel down to Mfuwe. There are people walking or riding bicycles along the main road. I wonder what happens if they don’t make out of the park before night falls. It is a very long walk.

 

 

doing very well post-rescue

 

 

her scar can clearly be seen

Edited November 8, 2014 by Kitsafari

[Kitsafari]

as we pass the springs and the stream that has become a vital source of life to all the wildlife in the area, birdlife is prolific here. In the distance I see a martial eagle flying low, carrying what looks like a guineafowl. He or she will be well fed today. No shot of it as it is too far.

 

 

 

we don't take many photos as it is reminscient of yesterday's snapshots.

 

But the buffalos are closer to the springs this morning. Smaller in numbers, but still big enough to continue to impress.

 

 

[Kitsafari]

we reach the banks. Opposite lies the banks where we will sleep tonight. We pass Nsefu Camp, and the roads become more bumpy.

 

Some of the pictures we take along the way to Tena Tena.

 

 

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

we pass Nseful camp and the road becomes more bumpy as it has not been graded as much as the notherrn side. and soon we reach the Tena Tena crossing. the crossing is far wider than the Tafika crossing and more groups of hippos. we say farewell to Lloyd and cross over to the next adventure.

 

 

the much-beloved ebony grove where the ashes of Norman Carr were scattered according to his wishes, says Lloyd. it's a supremely serene place to lay in peace.

 

 

 

a pair of very very relaxed ellies chewing on a stump.

 

 

 

 

 

 

the crossing, watched carefully by the hippos

[SafariChick]

I love those two relaxed ellies! Looking forward to the next chapter ...

[graceland]

@@Kitsafari, great adventures behind ---and more to come. Love the elies, lions and birds...looked like a lovely drive to your next camp.

 

Happy you found Mosiguard...@@Marks it came highly recommended to me by Moli in Ruaha (Kichaka Expeditions) before our safari with him as he knew I was worried as well. He is not a fan of the dreaded bites of tsetses and thought MG did a good job. I think its a natural ingredient as well.

 

I really did not need it in Ruaha; lucky I suppose....but glad I threw it in our pack for Mana. Too bad it did not work on the bees!

 

Rid is also supposed to be highly effective, so @@SafariChick,no worries! You will now have both.

[twaffle]

I've just caught up and I've really enjoyed sharing this safari with you Kitsafari. I especially love the scenery photos which as brought the places to life. I just can't believe the number of good leopard sightings you had, amazing. Thanks for putting so much effort into this, I am not the only one who has appreciated it. Brilliant.

[Kitsafari]

I've just caught up and I've really enjoyed sharing this safari with you Kitsafari. I especially love the scenery photos which as brought the places to life. I just can't believe the number of good leopard sightings you had, amazing. Thanks for putting so much effort into this, I am not the only one who has appreciated it. Brilliant.

 

thank you twaffle, and to all those who've followed patiently so far. sorry i've been away for a while and tied up with work. hope to continue this weekend, and will try my best to end it all - soon!

[Kitsafari]

I'm back, and determined to finish Mchenja this weekend!

 

Mchenja – the most happening camp

 

 

yippee we are here!

 

We pile into a Norman Carr vehicle, the most comfortable safari vehicle and the only one with a canvas roof while we are in SLNP. Tafika and Shenton vehicles are all open to the skies. John, who is guide-manager for Mchenja, picks us up and we meet four other guests in the vehicle. I am a bit worried if 6 persons to a vehicle is a standard here. So far, Shenton kept us four to a vehicle and Tafika’s vehicles are only two rows of seats behind. But I needn’t worry. As it turns out they do keep to 4 as much as possible.

 

When we made our bookings, Mchenja was more of a filler than anything else. We had 2 nights we couldn’t book at Mwamba and Tafika, so we thought we would try NC safaris to see what they were like. Mchenja is a bit more uber luxurious than the others.

 

 

a fallen tree on the banks of the camp. the swollen river often erodes the soft sand banks and you will find a lot of trunks and branches in the river

[Kitsafari]

I had expected a more luxurious lodge but it is quite down to earth with touches of luxury. The main tent is dominated by an ebony trunk that runs the length of the mess tent roof, supporting the thatched roof. When Mchenja was first built, they found a fallen ebony tree and they put it to good use. It is symbolic, after all, Mchenja means ebony tree.

 

 

There are five chalets. Four to the left of the mess tent, and one on the right, set back from the banks. We are given the first tent on the left, closest to the mess tent, but also closest to the bank, which is a blessing. Every night, as it was in Kaingo, we hear the grunts and deep bass throaty blares from the hippos. There is yet again an abundance of life in the river, which runs deeper here than that in Kaingo and Tafika. So we see more crocs and hippos in the river.

 

 

 

 

our tent, very close to the banks

 

The tents are smaller than what the pictures suggest, but they are no less spacious and comfortable. The bed dominates the room but there is a bathtub in the walkway to the open bathroom. The bathroom is large and opens to the skies and shaded by a huge ebony tree. Every day, a baby baboon and an adult scampers up the tree for the honey in the flowers. The tent is served by nettings in the front and the back, which allows the breeze to flow through. It’s the coolest tent of the four camps we stay in. Outside on the deck are two chairs and this is where H and I spend most of the time while in the camp.

 

 

 

 

 

if you need to soak in the bath and watch wildlife

 

 

the deck where game comes to us

 

 

the main tent. dining is around a huge square table that is precariously close to the plunge pool. a guest had fallen in a few days before we arrived ,so they are now building a fence around it.

 

 

our tent shaded by the lovely luscious sausage tree

[Kitsafari]

I feel the schedule at Mchenja is the best. Morning drive at 6am, brunch at 11.30, tea at 3.30pm, evening game drive at 4pm and dinner at 8.00-8.30pm. I look forward to brunch everyday. I don’t remember what dishes they are, but i loved every morsel, and now talking about it makes me want to go back just for brunch!

 

 

The 11.30am brunch also gives us an uninterrupted 3-hour break which gives us more than enough time to shower, and relax at the deck. As i said, wildlife comes to us in this camp, hence my description of it.

 

On our arrival, it is time for brunch and as we sit down to partake of the delicious food, someone shouts Leopard! I don’t see the cat, but others see it slink off from the third tent to the back of the last tent.

 

The brunch is then interrupted by a loud trumpeting. As we rush to the banks, a herd of elephants rush across the river. We can’t see what has spooked the elephants, but are surprised by the elephants turning around and crossed back. The same group crosses the river the next day, but they are more calm.

 

other animals at the camp:

 

 

 

 

a Hadada Ibis, i think

 

 

a tree squirrel just behind our tent. they are such fast animals and we never had a chance to take a proper pix while on game drives. but here they were..

 

[ZaminOz]

Oh no! that tree at Mchenja has finally gone into the river!

They say that some years Mchenja loses about 1 meter of river bank. I wonder how long it will be before they have to rebuild further back from the river?

But a lovely camp nonetheless. We stayed in the same tent as you in 2010 and really enjoyed Mchenja.

[Kitsafari]

@@ZaminOz I had to be so careful when I came out to the banks as they looked like they could give way anytime. they did put stakes and a rope to prevent you from going to the ends. I reckon they'll have to move that tent backwards in 3-4 years time. But we enjoyed Mchenja tremendously.

[Kitsafari]

a few more happenings in the camp:

 

 

 

 

elephants rushing across the river

 

 

 

a calmer crossing the next day, with more play in the water too.