Ebb and Flow, ebb and flow in SLNP

[Kitsafari]

Our first game drive at Mchenja begins with an excellent introduction to the horizontally magnificent Mwamba lions. We share the introduction with four or five other vehicles, including one film crew at a distance. The cats had a feast the night before on a baby hippo. And now, 17 lions are in various stages of sleep in the ebony grove. There is a steely look in the eyes of adult lions, unlike the Hollywood pride. These are the same female lions which killed six of seven cubs of the Kapanda pride last year. The Kapanda females used to be part of the Kaingo Mwamba pride but split from the group when it grew too large.No love is lost between them and blood ties mean nothing when survival is paramount.

 

 

 

It is too early for them to hunt this evening, and they show little interest in all the kudus, impalas, baboons and elephants that skirt them.

 

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

One male lion presides over them. He is one of two brothers that have ruled the Mwamba pride for the last 2 to 3 years, and both are famous for their hunting prowess. The other brother is not here, but he plays a key role as the rest of my trip unfolds.

 

[Kitsafari]

There is only one young cub, with another much older cub and a handful of sub-adult lions, including 3 males.

I start to watch the small cub. The cub looks thin and is obviously hungry and tries to rouse its mother for milk. But the lioness growls fiercely at it and walks away. The poor cub trots along and tries again. This time, although the lioness snarls and bares her teeth, the cub succeeds in suckling.

 

The Mwamba pride presides over the largest area in northern SLNP among the other prides. The lions move around a lot, and often the cubs are left behind as the lions do their patrols and hunts. That could partly explain why only one small cub remains now, according to Vicson of Mwamba.

 

 

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

We leave the dozing lions in search of more lively animals. Simon is our guide. Although Simon initially comes across with an air of indifference, his instincts and gut feelings are impeccable and he suffers no fools! He warms up just as we are about to leave Mchenja but he’s an amazing guide. Mchenja is actually quite close to Kaingo but Simon brings us on new trails not covered by Patrick. Many times, other vehicles leave a sighting but he waits, and the waits often pay off.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

a half decent shot of the shrew

[Kitsafari]

In the darkness, Simon spies a leopard hidden in the grass watching a small group of impalas. The spotlight is shone on her and she makes a move but her cover is blown She gives chase but fails to nail an antelope. I feel guilty as we follow her, is our spotlight giving her away? The red spotlight comes out, and she hides behind a bush, waiting for her chance again. Once again, in searching for her behind the bush, we force her hand and she gives chase too early but fails again. Now we are closer to her, we can see that she is pregnant and very hungry. We let her walk away, and I make a wish on the winds for her - a successful kill tonight.

 

all the shots were bad. i'm putting this up to show that we did indeed see yet another leopard!

 

Edited November 15, 2014 by Kitsafari

[Kitsafari]

The hippos wake me up before 5am the next morning, as they have done for the past few days. Eggs are cooked over a little stone fire fuelled by wood, and we are out at 6am. The baby great eagle owl looks down on us from up a tree along the main road, just outside the camp. It is there every time we emerge from the camp.

 

 

Breakfast!

 

 

while watching the sun rising

 

[Kitsafari]

We are alone with Simon this morning. The couple we are supposed to share the vehicle this morning, decide to join another couple for a walk. The early morning rays catch the Mwamba pride once again. This time, they are sprawled along the main road. There are already 4 vehicles there from Shenton and Lion Camp, and two film crew cars. The film crew cars have huge stickers on their backs : Film crew : Do Not Follow. They are there ostentatiously to film hippos during the dry season but the crew shows a lot of interest in the lions as well.

 

 

sizing me up for breakfast i guess

 

 

sleeping like a log

 

 

posing...

 

 

one of 2 youngsters which obviously tried their hands at porcupine hunting

 

 

the lead lioness - zambian carnivore programme (i think it is them) has collared a lioness in each pride to do more research

 

 

[michael-ibk]

The camp looks very beautiful, definitely more than just a fill-in! Love the eles in the water, beautiful video. And that´s a very decent shot of a shrew, would really like to see one one day. Particularly enjoy the pic of the ele chewing wood.

[Kitsafari]

The camp looks very beautiful, definitely more than just a fill-in! Love the eles in the water, beautiful video. And that´s a very decent shot of a shrew, would really like to see one one day. Particularly enjoy the pic of the ele chewing wood.

 

Thanks Micheal. we saw a lot of elephants chewing on wood. it's not as if there aren't leafy bushes and trees around still but they make good shots!

[Kitsafari]

One by one the vehicles leave. Until we are the last one standing, or I should say, seating, accompanied by a film crew car driven by one of the film crew and accompanied by a Zawa ranger.

The lead lioness, collared, sits up and stretches, and begins to walk. One by one the other lions – young and old – go through the motions and follow the lioness’ lead. The sub-adult and pride male are the last to do so, taking up the rear.

 

 

The majestic procession screeches to a halt as the film crew car cuts through the bushes – off-road - and speeds through the procession, forcing a lioness to quickly crouch down to avoid getting knocked down. It is totally irresponsible, reckless, utterly uncalled for behaviour. It was disgraceful for a documentary file crew member to behave like that and I begin to understand why many guides have a low opinion of film crew. I understand that not all film crew are so inconsiderate, but my respect for documentary film crew spirals downwards fast.

 

 

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

The film crew car speeds to position itself where the lions will walk through a gully and come up to where its cameras are. It will be a perfect spot, except that Simon stops a little away from him. And it is by our vehicle that the lions walk by one by one, obscuring the film crew. Take That! Ha.

 

It is hard to describe how watching such a large pride of lions walking together can do to you, I am just awed by the sheer magnificence of the lions, so confident that they own the land they walk on. I think it is one of very special experiences I’ve had. And I will have a couple more this trip.

 

 

 

 

 

a clip of the procession:

 

 

 

The grandmothers walk by first, the remaining two of three grand old dames. The third was the ageing lioness we had seen outside Kaingo. The remaining two will soon join her ranks. That’s the hard truth. Once the old and infirmed are not able to help hunt for food, their economic value tumbles. Once they are unable to keep up with the pride, then they are left behind for good. It is the cycle of life, a hard reality that they accept, and the rest of the group has to and must move on in order to survive.

 

 

 

[Atravelynn]

"over 50 hippos per km of the Luangwa River." That's a fun fact. I also learned who Father Ted is. Love the frisky zebras. Elephant Shrew, excellent catch! The lions obviously prefer you to the film crew.

 

I really feel like I'm in South Luangwa!

Edited November 16, 2014 by Atravelynn

[Kitsafari]

As we get close to camp, H asks Simon about the wifi signals. While in Mchenja, the wifi signals come and go while we are in our tent. Kendall says there is a spot outside camp where the staff would go to get signals. H fails to get the signals but needs to answer a urgent mail from his business partner. Simon brings us to a place which is a way off. sure enough that’s the spot for wifi! Sorry guys, can’t disclose that secret location. J

On the way back to camp, vultures are circling low. Simon decides to check it out and, bingo, we strike it rich. A leopard with a kill. And we are the only ones who have discovered it. So you see, Wifi signals are very important after all.

So I am wrong. We aren’t the only ones who found it. Some 50 white backed and hooded vultures hovering around the sausage tree found it first.

 

 

 

 

The male leopard is very relaxed with us. The puku kill has already been eaten. We will return often to see the leopard, and each time we are very lucky as we catch the leopard on the tree each return. I wonder if this is Tyson, the male leopard that Shenton names and is very habituated.

 

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

other animals seen on the drive;

 

the lone cookson's wildie wandering around again

 

 

 

a suckling baby puku:

 

 

 

[Atravelynn]

"Estimated numbers of hippos range from 6,000 to 10,000 or over 50 hippos per km of the Luangwa River." That is a lot of blubber! Great views from the hippo hide.

 

If I see a white faced guinea fowl, I'll know why.

 

The juvenile leopard looks rather wary. Always nice to see the youngsters.

[Kitsafari]

@@Atravelynn, that is something I missed capturing - the sheer numbers of all the hippos. the groups were scattered when we were there but as the water levels drop I can see how they will start crowding into smaller pools. and where the fights begin too!

[Kitsafari]

there is a small lagoon outside camp, pumped by MChenja. ellies are always there, and buffaloes sleep next to it in the night.

 

 

 

nope the ellie is not dead. just dozin' in the mud

 

[Kitsafari]

We return to camp, and is surprised by a grey tusked mammoth. Brunch is delayed as the gentle ellie is rooted between the kitchen and the dining area, busy taking a leaf after leaf from a tree. the guests, including me, are awed by the day visit.

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

Evening drive finds us alone with Simon again. A Canadian couple has just flown in from Lower Zembezi and has decided to forego the evening drive as they are tired. I for one will never say no to a game drive anytime of the day. But it is our gain as we get another free PV. J

 

The Mwamba pride has made a kill but is hiding in such a thick bush that even Simon can’t find a way through. So we join the other vehicles and wait for tidbits, that is, when the lions emerge for a drink at the river. Soon the vehicles leave but Simon brings us to the river and we watch a few of the cats drink in peace.

 

 

 

the lactating female who had a bit of tummy upset

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

Sundowner is with a herd of elephants coming up the bank just metres away from us. I’m a bit nervous but Simon laughs off my wariness. He knows better!

 

 

 

guarding the baby

 

 

and sunsets....

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

Night falls and we are back to see our own leopard. He is nervous and stressed. Just below him a hyena is lurking, looking up rather hopefully. Our leopard decides that the dead puku is not in a safe place, and proceeds to move it, which is rather a nerve wrecking thing. Although the kill doesn’t fall, the leopard has moved such that he is facing away from us. And we are joined by another Mchenja vehicle, so we can’t go over the other side. It’s okay, we shan’t be greedy. We had the whole viewing this morning. But next time, I shall insist the guide move to the front.

 

 

That night, we finally nail that shot (well of sorts) of the elephant shrew which has escaped us umpteenth times!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

and the shrew - really cute little fellas but this creature stop to pose for us

 

[Kitsafari]

Small creatures also matter - and there are a few of them during the drive...

 

 

emerald spotted dove - bright stunning emerald.

 

 

great eagle owl

 

 

 

genet

 

[Kitsafari]

While at Mchenja, I take the opportunity to sit on the deck to practise my non-existent photography skills (not much help that did!).

 

 

A bird flies over the river in front of our tent. It looks like a kite, and it is then I notice the tumult in the river. A large group of crocs are on a feeding frenzy. A scaly foot sticks out – they are feasting on a dead crocodile. It’s a first for me, watching 3 to 4 large crocs rolling, trying to tear the meat. I’m told crocodiles will not cannibalise one of their own unless it is dead.

 

 

 

 

and a video of croc on croc

 

[Kitsafari]

As I watch the croc show in the waters, two crocodiles emerge from the water on the opposite bank. One of the crocs has a huge catfish – a metre-long I reckon - in its jaws, and the other croc is following it, in hopes to snatching an easy meal. I tape the two – is a fight inevitable? Will a third croc join in the fray??

 

sorry about the shakes!

 

[Kitsafari]

The fish eagle took the head a few metres away. It starts to call – did I say how much I love that call? one of the most iconic calls in africa – and it is answered as a juvenile fish eagle arrives and flies off with the head. Meanwhile another fish eagle flies to the croc which still has the tail. A standoff ensues for about 15 mins before the dejected croc picks up the tail and moves away. I don’t appreciate how large fish eagles are until I see the photos and see the eagle next to the croc. They are big!

 

 

As you can see, you have don’t really have to stray far from Mchenja for great viewings.