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Subtitle: Cloud Forest to Jungle

 

Subsubtite: “There has been a very long delay in this TR. Mainly due to the number of photos that needed processing, but also when we returned, there were so many new TRs, I was too busy reading, rather than writing!” --TdGraves

 

 

Itinerary in Brief and in Detail:

1 nt Cusco, arrive Oct 3

2 nts InkaNatura's "Cock of the Rock Manu Cloud Forest"

8 nights Manu Expeditions "Complete Manu Biosphere Reserve Experience"

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Plaza de Armas in Cusco Cock of the Rock at Lek near Cock of the Rock Lodge

The orange tint to the feathers indicates this male is not fully mature.

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Brown Capped Capuchin at Cock of the Rock Lodge Butterfly in Bathroom at Boca Manu, entrance to park

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Red and Green Macaws at Blanquillo Clay Lick Great Potoo and Chick in Cloud Forest

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Cusco and Plaza de Armas View from my hotel, Cusco Plaza 1

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Plaza de Armas

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Plaza de Armas in the day and at night. Very safe to walk to the plaza and around the plaza alone day or night.

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Great Egret and Andean Gull. ONE OF ABOUT 6 WILD GUINEA PIGS!!! Ruins, just out in a field.

All at Huacarpay Lagoon, about 45 minutes out of Cusco. First stop on the InkaNatura Cock of the Rock trip.

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Puna Teal at Huacarpay Lagoon

To be continued

Edited by Atravelynn
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@ Atravelynn

 

Well, you beat me to it. I'm still trying to sort through my photographs of our visit to Tambopata and Machu Picchu. Speaking of which, it looks like you got some great shots. We saw cocks of the rock briefly, but not in a sight line for as clear a view as you got. I'm envious already. Looking very much forward to your report.

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Great start, Lynn, looking forward to this. Tayra, Cock on the Rock, River Otters, Agami Heron (!), over 60 Macaws and Tapir are exciting highlights, though it seems the Tapir did test your patience quite a bit. :)

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What a great place to visit. We went in 2008; so I will re-live those moments through your report. Looking forward to it!

 

Yours are always so readable-- like a good book!

 

I got soooo sick in Cusco; thankfully it was at the end of our trip and not the beginning. Wine and altitude do not mix well ^_^ So I missed a lot of events, sadly.

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Great start, looking forward to more when you have time...

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@ Atravelynn

 

Well, you beat me to it. I'm still trying to sort through my photographs of our visit to Tambopata and Machu Picchu. Speaking of which, it looks like you got some great shots. We saw cocks of the rock briefly, but not in a sight line for as clear a view as you got. I'm envious already. Looking very much forward to your report.

Thanks! If you saw any Cocks of the Rock in Tambopata, that's lucky. I think other than in Manu at the lek near Cock of the Rock, they are scarce.

 

You helped send me @@Treepol, with your report!

 

@@michael-ibk, I got a good deal of exercise on account of the tapir or on account of trying to see an absent tapir. Fortunately one big one and one little one were spotted on the trip.

 

I'll be interested in any comparisons, you have @@graceland. A tough less on altitude medicine and wine. :(

Edited by Atravelynn
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Cocks of the Rock at lek near Cock of the Rock Lodge

Cock of the Rock Lodge and Birds

The scheduled InkaNatura Cock of the Rock Manu Cloud Forest trip left Cusco about 6:00 am to allow plenty of time for bird watching and WILD GUINEA PIG WATCHING at Huacarpay Lagoon, about 45 minutes out of Cusco. Guide William said he saw wild Guinea Pigs there about 1 of every 10 visits.

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One of about 6 skittish wild Guinea Pigs that were seen briefly at Huacarpay Lagoon

We ran into other independent bird watchers at the lagoon too. And we saw ruins nearby, just unattended in a field here and there. I found that utterly fascinating!

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Andean at Huacarpay Lagoon, Ancient Terracing in background Puna Teal at Huacarpay Lagoon Ruins at Huacarpay, just out in a field

Next stop: the chullpas at Nina Marka (everyone thinks of Neiman Marcus when they hear it) which at one time had housed mummies that were on display at the Inca Museum.

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Chullpas at Nina Marka--religious structures from the past

We stopped at spots that were good for the endemic Bearded Mountaineer and found it, along with the Giant Hummingbird.

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Giant Hummingbird

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Bearded Mountaineer (endemic)

The scenic roads were a little winding, more so as we descended the Andes into the Cloud Forest. Motion sickness meds would be a good idea if you are prone to it. I just chomped Pepto Bismals, but a ½ Bonine would have been a good idea. I found the roads were not too scary between Cusco and the Cock of the Rock Lodge. More precarious was the road between the Cock of the Rock Lodge and Atalaya, a town at the foot of the cloud forest on the Alto Madre de Dios River where trips into Manu depart.

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Andean Flicker

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Views from heading over the Andes to Manu

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We had reached the cloud forest.

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Scarlet bellied Mountain Tanager

Late Aug to Sept is prime time for display Cocks of the Rock. Oct is good too. Oct 4, 5, 6 I saw about 6-9 displaying male Cocks of the Rock on 4 visits. I had 5 scheduled visits. The first got rained and landslided out.

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Landslide enroute to Cock of the Rock Lodge. Rare but brief torrential rains. The hide at the lek View with no zoom/telephoto

The lek itself did not get washed away thank goodness but the road to the lodge did, so we arrived too late for a lek visit. Of the remaining 4 visits, 3 were fair to good and for one it was getting too dark because rain was imminent.

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Cock of the Rock at lek near Cock of the Rock Lodge

The visits are at sunrise (5:20 am-ish for 45 to 90 minutes) or at dusk (arriving 3:15-ish until sunset about 6:00 pm). These times apply to early Oct. Midday the birds are eating away from the lek and are glimpsed only by luck. We saw one once at a distance that was not at lek.

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Cock of the Rock at lek near Cock of the Rock Lodge

June-July, maybe a couple of birds are seen, same for after the heavier rains start later in Nov or Dec. Those couple of birds may be younger males practicing their calls and dances. In the heavy rains, sometimes no birds are seen.

It is true that the lek and viewing blind near the lodge was taken out by a landslide a few years back. Now it requires a 5 minute drive or a 35 minute walk along the road to get to the viewing area. People rarely walk, though I did once. They never walk in the morning because you'd have to set out on the road in the dark. If walking in the afternoon, you have to leave the activity early to get back before dark.

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Cock of the Rock at the lek near Cock of the Rock Lodge

Viewing is done from a platform overlooking the lek, which serves as the hide/blind. The lek is dense trees on a hillside that the male Cocks of the Rock have chosen as a place to display for the females, who observe them now and then. About 15 people can fit onto the platform in tight conditions. The most I saw was maybe 10 on the platform. With 10 bodies views are still easy--after all it is bright orangey-red bird in dark green leaves. But photos are tough when there are more than 4-5 people. Often there is one good spot to view a bird or two through the heavy foliage and only 1 person can fit in that spot. (Throw in a tripod or two…) But just seeing the birds is easy regardless of the #s viewing. I used a tripod or monopod the majority of the time. Usually there were very few people (sometimes no one else) when I was there in Oct. I was told there are many more visitors in Aug-Sept when 12+ displaying males can be seen as opposed to my 6-9 per outing.

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Cock of the Rock at lek near Cock of the Rock Lodge

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The color distinction between the younger oranger males and the older redder males is evident.


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Female Cock of the Rock is reddish brown. The females watch the males for a short time and then take off. The males still display for each other.

The Cock of the Rock Lodge is outstanding in every respect. Lots of hummingbirds, tanagers, and wildlife activity can be seen from the dining lounge. Once in a while a Cock of the Rock can even be seen on the grounds. We saw one on a walk. Staff were telling me that most mornings at 6 am the tayra and an agouti can be seen from the lounge area. But that’s the same hours as the Cock of the Rocks display in the morning. I saw the tayra one rainy afternoon at the lodge.

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White collared Jay in cloud forest enroute to Cock of the Rock Lodge Brown tufted Capuchin at Cock of the Rock Lodge

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Brown tufted Capuchin at Cock of the Rock Lodge

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Sparkling Violetear Hummingbird seen from Cock of the Rock Lodge

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Sparkling Violetear Hummingbird seen from Cock of the Rock Lodge

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Hooded Suskin and a Tayra at Cock of the Rock Lodge in the rain

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The tayra and the bird banders and I were out and about in the rain at Cock of the Rock Lodge. The colorful bags held birds captured in netting.

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Tayra at Cock of the Rock Lodge in the Rain

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Brown tufted Capuchin seen at Cock of the Rock Lodge

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Last two Cocks of the Rock the final morning at the lek near the Cock of the Rock Lodge. All in all, lucky bird viewing. I planned 5 outings of which 4 took place and 3 provided fair to good conditions.

To be Continued

Edited by Atravelynn
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@ Atravelynn

 

Well, you beat me to it. I'm still trying to sort through my photographs of our visit to Tambopata and Machu Picchu. Speaking of which, it looks like you got some great shots. We saw cocks of the rock briefly, but not in a sight line for as clear a view as you got. I'm envious already. Looking very much forward to your report.

Thanks! If you saw any Cocks of the Rock in Tambopata, that's lucky. I think other than in Manu at the lek near Cock of the Rock, they are scarce.

 

You helped send me @@Treepol, with your report!

 

@@michael-ibk, I got a good deal of exercise on account of the tapir or on account of trying to see an absent tapir. Fortunately one big one and one little one were spotted on the trip.

 

I'll be interested in any comparisons, you have @@graceland. A tough less on altitude medicine and wine. :(

 

Unfortunately we were there In June. Not nearly as prolific birds as you have captured. They are truly stunning. I think we need a re-visit.

 

I did love the scenic drives and you are so right about needing bomine. I was sicker on this trip than any; as well my DH. Thankfully we recovered within 2 days (and staying at the lovely Monasterio in Cusco where they treated us so well was a plus-) on to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu. Peru is a magnificent country to visit; and the colorfully attired women and children always put a smile on the face.

 

We visited the Amazon at the beginning - before Cusco, so were able to fully enjoy the jungle walks and river wildlife. South America is my second fav. continent to Africa. This report definitely is inspiring me to make a plan :D

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@@Atravelynn

 

Fantastic Cock of the Rock pictures. Love the Brown Tufted Capuchin and Violetear Hummingbird as well.

Really interesting report so far.

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Interesting comment on June and Cocks of the Rock @@graceland. Glad you were well for the Amazon. No fun being sick in the jungle lodge! It supports the timing of mating and dancing/displaying season starting in about August. Thanks @Zimgirl.

 

 

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Orchids at Cock of the Rock Lodge Wild Begonias in Cloud Forest Bird of Paradise in Cloud Forest

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Ants on Bird of Paradise in Cloud Forest

 

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Giant River Otters on Cocha Salvadore, playing in later afternoon and sunning at midday Recuperating Scarlet Macaw at Panticolla in private reserve near Manu

 

Excerpt from my first Aug 2012 Peru trip report:

One knowledgeable individual shared this about Heath River vs. Manu: “Everyone thinks Manu is by far the best for wildlife and Heath River is not as pristine and has less wildlife. At one time, Manu was the only wildlife game around and that is where the reputation for wildlife came from. But Heath Wildlife Center has enjoyed protection for many years now and the species are rejuvenating. Heath is improving, while Manu is deteriorating from encroachment and hunting in the area. Heath has less human activity nearby and actually has slightly better wildlife than Manu now. There are about two primate species that can possibly be seen in Manu that cannot be seen in Heath.”

Both a tour operator and some tourists I spoke with said that the drive over the Andes to get to Manu was something that should not be missed. I’d be interested in the comparison of Heath River and Manu from others who have visited both. Eventually, I hope to be able to chime in on the difference.”

Chiming in on the difference…Heath River Wildlife Center (along with Sandoval Lake, if the extension to this location is chosen) was great. Manu was great. What a privilege to visit both. If the opportunity to visit each presents itself, and you enjoy nature/wildlife, both are highly worthy destinations. If only one works in the itinerary, investigate the differences (a lot are mentioned here), pick one, and enjoy. Neither was clearly superior or inferior IMO.

The further into the Manu National Park and Biosphere Reserve you go, the less valid the above quote is. The further outside the boundaries of the park, in the neighboring private reserves the more valid the above quote--IMHO based on one visit to Manu and to Heath River, two years apart.

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Blanquillo Clay Lick in Manu

Seen on drives or walks in Cloud Forest:

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Baby Tapir in Cloud Forest along road, seen while driving from Cock of the Rock Lodge to Atalaya.

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Coca Farm Interesting Mushrooms

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Pilcopata River in Manu

 

To be continued

Edited by Atravelynn
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Fabulous sightings @@Atravelynn. From your photos I would say that October is better for birds and mammals than August when I visited (both times). I planned to be down the Manu Road no later than end August as we were told that after that the road becomes unpredictable and I see that mudslides still occur. Now that the road improvements have been made, do you think it would be less risky to plan a later trip?

 

Wonderful views of the tayra, CORs, hummingbirds and I am truly envious of that stripy baby tapir.

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@@Atravelynn

Wonderful sightings already- Baby tapir, giant otters, tayra (we saw one run very fast across the road in the Pantanal but now I can see what they really look like!).

The Cock of the Rock is wondeful and you have beautiful pictures. ...and the capuchin.

 

It is also good to see Cusco again - when we visited Peru we stayed there about 3 times at different times in our trip and we really liked it.

 

I am looking forward to more.

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Great photos, Lynn, the baby Tapir is one very special catch! Was it alone?

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The baby was alone, @@michael-ibk. It appeared briefly along the road and went back into the forest. @@Treepol, I think from a road safety perspective, a little later in the year would be ok. But from a wildlife and bird standpoint, I think the wetter weather would reduce sightings. Thanks, @@TonyQ. Cusco is a unique place. My two visits each produced a little altitude trouble--mainly headaches.

 

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Otters at midday, Cocha Salvatore in Manu

 

Similarities And Differences Between Peru’s

Heath River Wildlife Center and

Manu National Park And Biosphere Reserve

Heath River Wildlife Center (HRWC) is a single place and lodge, and so is Sandoval Lake and lodge (if an extension is chosen). HRWC and Sandoval Lake are a half day’s journey apart by boat plus a 2-mile hike. In contrast Manu has the cloud forest for Cocks of the Rock (and lots of other species); then a day’s journey away by boat are some private reserves and lodgings near the actual Manu National Park and Biosphere Reserve; then some itineraries extend another half day’s journey by boat into the park proper, to stay Manu Tented Camp; and finally the Manu Wildlife Center is outside the park on private property, down the Madre de Dios River, about a day’s journey from Manu Tented Camp. So Manu = spread out and HRWC = more compact, with Sandoval Lake a ½-day away.

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Leaving Pantiacolla Lodge, at the dock, Alto Madre de Dios Rio Along Alto Madre de Dio Rio Along Manu River

The fewer days you have for an itinerary, the better Heath River with or without Sandoval Lake, unless the main interest is the Cock of the Rock, in which case as little as 2 Manu nights are needed. I devoted 5 nts to Heath River in 2012 and Sandoval Lake and 10 nights to Manu this trip.

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Sandcolored Night Hawks on Manu River

Major attractions of each: Clay Lick for parrots, parakeets, and Red and Green Macaws; Tapir Clay Lick; jungle walks and boat rides for wildlife. Each have a canopy tower: Manu Wildlife Center’s is an easy climb up 144 regular stairs, while Heath River Wildlife Center’s tower is more challenging to ascend in true vertical climbing fashion, complete with a safety belt. I did not go up the HRWC Tower. Manu has the Cock of the Rock birds in the cloud forest, viewed by staying at Cock of the Rock Lodge or similar and driving several minutes to the lek where the birds display. Manu has better chance of Giant River Otters, especially if Cocha Salvador is part of the itinerary. But if a 1-3 day extension of Sandoval Lake is added to Heath River Wildlife Center, then the otter odds even up. Both have tapir licks with activity primarily at night.

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Rufous bellied Euphonia seen from atop the Manu Wildlife Center Tower, 144 steps up, an easy climb

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Spider Monkey-We saw about 3 troops from atop the Tower at Manu Wildlife Center. Very stable, securely built.

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Blanquillo Clay Lick at Manu Wildlife Center

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Blanquillo Clay Lick at Manu Wildlife Center

More on Macaw Licks:

At HRWC, the macaw lick is along a river bank. It is a 10 minute boat ride away from Heath River Wildlife Center. Viewing is from a hide anchored on the water about 100 feet away from clay lick which is along the bank, meaning there can be movement of the hide due to river currents. It was still for my 2 visits, but some very serious photographers said there had been noticeable and detrimental movement the days before I arrived when they were photographing. There is room for about 12 people in the hide. Tripods/.monopods don’t work well due to the size/shape of the opening in the hide. Bean bags work great. A Western toilet and hammocks are available in the hide. It was very easy for me to request a second visit to the hide in addition to the guaranteed visit in my InkaNatura itinerary. The afternoon after visit #1, I said I wanted to go back and the captain (no naturalist) took me back the next day at no cost to me. The others in my group did a different activity (climbed the tower) while I went back to the macaw lick. I had confirmed I could do 2 macaw lick visits before leaving home and in fact a second optional visit was part of the stated itinerary. The nice part was you could decide on whether to do macaw lick visit #2 or not after making visit #1. I loved my 2 visits to the macaw clay lick.

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Blanquillo Clay Lick at Manu Wildlife Center

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Blanquillo Clay Lick at Manu Wildlife Center

At the Manu Wildlife Center (MWC), the Blanquillo macaw lick used to be a river bank but now it is a clay wall hundreds of feet away from the river. It is a 30 minute boat ride from MWC down river, followed by a 30-45 minute walk on flat easy trails. to the hide and a 60 minute ride back up river. At least those were the boating times for my two visits. The hide is on land and is huge, about 150 feet away from the clay lick. It could probably accommodate 100+ people. I was told that since the company that owns Blanquillo raised their prices, it is not at all crowded. No other groups were there for my 2 visits. Tripods or monopods work well, and so do beanbags. Western toilet and places to stretch out are available in the hide. Getting a second visit to the Blanquillo hide in addition to the guaranteed visit in my Manu Expeditions was a nightmare of arrangements/miscommunications and cost me an extra $305 that had to be booked up front; no deciding on macaw lick visit #2 after making visit #1. The boat captain and boathand both took me (no naturalist) to my second visit. I loved my 2 visits to the Blanquillo clay lick even with the extra cost.

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Blanquillo Clay Lick at Manu Wildlife Center

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Blanquillo Clay Lick at Manu Wildlife Center

Both clay licks were similar in viewing potential for both a variety parrots and the red and green macaws. My Manu Blanquillo “red and green macaws on the clay lick” photos are a little better overall because (1) I have a better camera with higher zoom now, (2) I could use a tripod at Blanquillo but not Heath, (3) the red and green macaws remained longer at the Blanquillo clay lick. My “red and green macaws in the trees above the clay lick” photos are better at Heath River because those areas where birds alight before descending to the clay licks were more visible and closer at Heath River. My parrot and parakeet photos are better from Heath River because (1) one day of rain at Manu disrupted normal patterns of activity and feeding so the parrots missed one early morning (2) something scared off the parrots and parakeets at Manu on the day there was no rain, (3) Heath River was closer than Manu, so smaller parrots were easier to photograph.

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Blanquillo Clay Lick at Manu Wildlife Center

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Blanquillo Clay Lick at Manu Wildlife Center

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Blanquillo Clay Lick at Manu Wildlife Center

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Half of the Blanquillo Clay Lick Hide View from the Blanquillo hide

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Collared Pecary seen enroute to clay lick 3 Toed Sloth, walked to find the sloth after the clay lick

To be continued

Edited by Atravelynn
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Blanquillo Clay Lick at Manu Wildlife Center


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Blanquillo Clay Lick at Manu Wildlife Center



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Blanquillo Clay Lick at Manu Wildlife Center



Other Macaws not at the licks: I saw more Scarlet Macaws in Manu (excluding the cloud forest where Cocks of the Rock are, but macaws are pretty much absent) than HRWC. Pantiacolla has a recuperating Scarlet Macaw and a pair of Chestnut Macaws on the grounds. I got a photo of a Scarlet that briefly landed on a tree at MWC, possibly investigating a potential nesting site. I saw more Blue and Gold Macaws at Sandoval Lake and was able to get photos of Blue and Golds from a hide overlooking their favorite tree at Sandoval Lake.



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Recuperating Chestnut Fronted Macaw pair at Pantiacolla Lodge



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Scarlet Macaw looking for a place to nest at Manu Wildlife Center


More on Tapir Licks:


The HRWC tapir clay lick is under half an hour away from the lodge. We were exceptionally lucky that a tapir was there when we arrived in the dark and it remained for 30 minutes—the longest Guide Oscar had ever seen a tapir stick around. . The guide shone a flashlight for viewing. There was one clay lick with unobstructed views as we stood on the platform overlooking the muddy clay lick.



The MWC tapir clay lick has the reputation of the best clay lick in Peru with the highest odds of a sighting. The walk to the tapir lick takes about an hour. The plan is to arrive around 4pm and remain until dark. Guide David said, he waits until 9 pm for tapirs to appear. On the platform are mattresses with sheets and an encased pillow, protected by mosquito netting. There are two clay lick areas side by side with some thick vegetation separating them. If the tapir appears in the lick where you are not, your guide will fetch you so you can quietly leave your mattress and netting to walk to where the tapir can be viewed. On the platform in the center between the licks is a spotlight. The big battery was dead, so it was not used during my visit; just regular flashlights were used.



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Getting comfortable at the Manu Wildlife Center Tapir Clay Lick Hide Poison Arrow Dart Frog seen walking back from tapir hide Night jar in the center, tail up, facing front on way back from tapir hide



For flash photos, we were asked to initially refrain from using the flash so that everyone first would get a good look in case the flash disturbed the tapir. Then flash was ok. The tapir 4- minute visit at MWC was far more typical than our 30 minute show at HRWC.



The best conditions for tapir are when it has been very hot during the day and there is no rain. Our first Manu visit had those conditions and a tapir appeared at 8:30 pm. My second visit was in cooler weather and no tapir appeared.



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Tapir at Manu Wildlilfe Center Tapir Clay Lick



Night time Tapir Photography: Tapirs at both lick appeared oblivious to flash photography. At MWC after about 90 seconds of viewing without flash to give everyone a good chance to see, we could take flash photos. I started with the built in flash and then after a few shots was going to use my other camera with the hotshoe flash. Well, the tapir was gone before any hotshoe photos could be taken, since he was present for only 4 minutes. On my second tapir lick visit, I was all ready with the hotshoe flash camera mounted on a tripod outside of my mosquito netting. But no tapir.



The distance from the tapir seems to be about even at both the HRWC and the MWC hide, but it depends on where the tapir appears within the clay lick



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Nursing Spider Monkey, seen at the Tapir Clay Lick in the daytime. Birds and and animals can be found at the clay lick during the day too.



Wildlife in General: Manu offers the possibility of Cocks of the Rock if you go to the cloud forest (Aug-Nov are best months—see Cock of the Rock section below for more detail.). Otters are usually seen at Sandoval Lake, half a day from HRWC but I was the unlucky 1%-5% that missed the Sandoval otters. Otters are usually seen at Cocha Salvador (lake) in Manu and we saw them on two occasions. Hoatzins were easier to see at Sandoval than the lakes in Manu. Monkeys of various types were visible both places and photographable. Both places offered great wildlife viewing possibilities, but they are jungles, which makes viewing and photography more challenging than an open environment such as Brazil’s Pantanal.


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Hoatzins, Cocha Blanco in Manu Wildlife Center


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Giant River Otters, one of a playful family of 8 - afternoon Cocha Salvador in Manu



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white fronted capuchin; red howler; spider; gray wooly, brown tufted capuchin; saddleback tamarind marmoset Giant River Otters in the afternoon, Cocha Salvador in Manu




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Family of 8 Giant River Otters basking in the sun at midday - Cocha Salvador, Manu


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Family of 8 Giant River Otters basking in the sun at midday - Cocha Salvador, Manu


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Family of 8 Giant River Otters basking in the sun at midday - Cocha Salvador, Manu


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Family of 8 Giant River Otters basking in the sun at midday - Cocha Salvador, Manu



To be Continued

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Family of 3 Giant River Otters Basking in the noon sun - Cocha Salvador, Manu

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Cocha Salvador, Manu - Agami Heron, seen in early morning under thick brush. More visible just after noon.

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Agami Heron, Cocha Salvador, Manu Toad in the bathroom at Boca Manu, park entrance

 

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White fronted Capuchin in Manu Only Capybara photos in Manu Blue throated Piping Guan, aggressive "resident" at MWC

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Horned Screamer at Cocha Blanco at Manu Wildlife Center

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Saddleback Tamarind in Manu

To be continued

Edited by Atravelynn
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Fabulous photos @@Atravelynn - giant otters, tapir, macaws and the agami heron sighting which is very impressive. What sort of camera are you using?

Edited by Treepol
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The Agami Heron is absolutely stunning, great pics! I had hoped to find one in Rio Claro but no luck there. And I always love seeing Hoatzins. Great to see the otters so relaxed.

 

Interesting how Tapirs, so shy on general, don´t seem to mind flashlights at all, obviously they don´t associate it with humans or they would run like hell.

 

(Almost) no capybaras? Why is that?

 

The licks are incredibly productive, you really had fantastic experiences (even if partly costly) there.

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Wonderful photos @Atrevelynn - what a lovely adventure! And as usual you share such meticulous information - thank you. I just adore the Giant River Otters, they are amongst my favourite animals - saw them in the same place about 4 years ago.

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What a great wildlife trip you had in spite of the weather and road conditions. We did a birding trip to northern Peru in September and now Manu has just moved up several notches on our To Do list. We're enjoying your trip report and beautiful photos...that Agami Heron is a stunner!

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The otters in the sun and the beautiful agami heron, gorgeous!!!

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@@Atravelynn

The photos of the otters are wonderful - and the macaws are beautiful - worth the extra visit I think! I think your photos throughout this are superb and show off the wildlife really well.

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(Almost) no capybaras? Why is that?

 

We saw about 8 total. Very shy. I think the shyness explains it. They were probably long gone before we got there in the boat. But it is hard to match the Pantanal for abundance of capybaras. We saw only a few caiman as well, a couple black and a couple white--their local species. No caiman photos that I deemed keepers.

 

The licks are incredibly productive, you really had fantastic experiences (even if partly costly) there.

The cost also serves the same purpose as insurance does, which includes peace of mind. I was not concerned that I would miss the macaws with just one trip since I had two chances. Funny how we'll splurge on Item A and never dream of buy Item B. For me A is the macaws and B is a fancy purse.

What sort of camera are you using?

98% Canon SX50 2% Sony HX1 Tripod for the macaws, monopd and tripod for the cocks of the rock, tripod for the great potoo, beanbag (homemade) for the otters. Lots of hand held shots. Some dial fiddling, but not all that much.

 

What a great wildlife trip you had in spite of the weather and road conditions. I'm blaming the weather far more than the roads. The roads were fair to great, but no match for a landslide and waterfall. Within a couple of hours the washed out road was fixed. Guys just appeared out of the forest with wheelbarrows, shovels, axes...it was quite impressive. We did a birding trip to northern Peru in September and now Manu has just moved up several notches on our To Do list. Great, hope you saw some lifers in Sept. We're enjoying your trip report and beautiful photos...that Agami Heron is a stunner!

 

Wonderful photos @Atrevelynn - what a lovely adventure! And as usual you share such meticulous information - thank you. I just adore the Giant River Otters, they are amongst my favourite animals - saw them in the same place about 4 years ago. Probably relatives of the ones I saw or maybe even the same ones. With their distinctive white markings, it's possible to tell if it's the same ones. I agree that Giant River Otters are right up there with our venerated Cheetah!

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@ Atravelynn

 

I agree with the others that your photographs are wonderful, especially considering the challenges that the jungle imposes. I am especially impressed with the otters. Those that we saw in the Tambopata were very skittish, but these seem so relaxed and unconcerned by your presence. Was that, in fact, the case?

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The otters in the sun and the beautiful agami heron, gorgeous!!!

Do you have an agami hotspots from your many Pantanal trips?

 

@@Atravelynn

The photos of the otters are wonderful - and the macaws are beautiful - worth the extra visit I think! I think your photos throughout this are superb and show off the wildlife really well.

Thank you Tony.

 

@@Alexander33, we were on a non-motorized catamaran. For the sunning otters we had 2 paddlers (our boat captain and the first mate) and our guide directing. For the afternoon playing otters we had our guide paddling. They were very adept at maneuvering the boat. They also approached really quietly and cautiously and stopped if the otters seemed to notice us. There was a commotion in the bushes near where the otters were sunning by some hoatzins that sent several into the water, never to reappear. But it was not us, it was the birds that disturbed them. You are right that the jungle is a tougher environment, especially on foot, than in an open vehicle in a savanna.

 

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Common Moorhens and Horse Cinnamon Teals Rufous Collard Sparrow

All at Huacarpay Lagoon

Bird List

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My favorite South American bird, the Capped Heron

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Wattled Jacana, Capped Heron. Collared Trogan, Smooth billed Ani, Motmot, Amazon KF, Mystery Bird

WHAT IS THE BIRD ON THE BOTTOM RIGHT IF YOU HAPPEN TO KNOW?

To be continued

Edited by Atravelynn
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