East Africa Adventure - Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania 21 Days

[Kitsafari]

@@SaminKaz i'm enjoying your trip report and the Ngorongoro crater brings back fond memories. although the crater was the second stop for that trip two years ago, it was part of my first safari and i've not looked back at all!

 

your tips on the orphanage are most helpful! i'll be there very soon, and I did wonder what went on during the morning and evening visits. so you have helped prep me for the visits now! thanks for sharing.

[SaminKaz]

10 January, 2014. Serengeti Under Canvas Day 1

 

Lions!

 

After an amazing Masai display and dinner the night before that was only ruined by rude and unappreciative Russians I woke early to make my way down to the Lake Manyara Airport to what I was told was a short flight to Ndutu Airport where I would be meeting up with my next guide and staying at andBeyond's Serengeti Under Canvas property.

 

This was going to be the "highlight" of my safari experience because it was when I would finally see the legendary Great Migration. The poor pilot was the same guy that flew us in a couple days prior and my Haitian friends made sure that the guy knew that any "crazy" antics were not appreciated and that the turtle approach is what we wanted!! Unfortunately, the pilot didn't understand the quickest way to Ndutu and we ended up doing a circumnavigational tour of the whole Serengeti park including four stops before getting to mine which literally was only 20 minutes away from Lake Manyara but turned into nearly a 2 hour tour. I was itching to get on the ground and explore so being up in the air for so long was frustrating.

 

For anyone that watches tv, the Great Migration has become the "holy grail" of safari experiences. Typically, it involves a river crossing where thousands of $$$s are paid to sit in a car whether it be combi, closed 4WD or open 4WD and pray that those 1,000s of animals decide to cross the river that minute, hour, hours, day, days that you are hanging out with many other likeminded safari goers on the side of a riverbank.

 

Having heard this scenario from guides on my previous safari and having read in-depth on the subject I decided that putting that my hard earn cash money towards a migration experience during the calving season was money better spent. Ndutu offered me the classic low grass, extensive plains safari experience with animals everywhere you could see. It also included at no extra cost millions of bloody flies that they don't warn you about. Now being an Aussie we are used to flies but having spent the last 13 years in Europe and Kazakhstan I have become a little immune to this pest and I can only thank my lucky stars that I remembered to bring my fly net which saved me from going crazy with swatting those pesky buggers from the moment I descended from the plane.

 

Awesome Andrew as I later nicknamed him welcomed me at the airport. I in turn greeted him with "Hi Andrew, I am Sam and I want to see animals die!!" Not sure how that went down but I pretty quickly expressed my desire to see blood, guts, animals running, predators chasing, my camera sounding like an automatic gun and me with a big smile on my face. Once again, Andrew the guide looking a little perplexed and thinking who is this crazy woman????? At the time I didn't realise it but he was expecting someone from Kazakhstan who was Asian looking and probably not speaking English. Instead he got a blonde Aussie that wanted a massacre. Poor guy!

 

http://vimeo.com/85092437

 

So after a lovely coffee and snacks, plus a pitstop at the "interesting" airport loo we made our way down to camp, which was only a 20 minute drive. The andBeyond team was all out to welcome the new arrival with a cold drink and towel. These guys were amazing and I could immediately feel that I was in for a big treat staying in such an awesome camp.

 

Once again my life was signed away and I was whisked off to my tent which was luckily only 3 away from the main area. A great distance to not hear all the noise from meals/drinks but also not too far to get back to for game drives, sundowners and meals. The tent left me speechless. My butler must have been new because he showed me everything. I just thought the bed was enough but damn having cold drinks in an esky on hand, a flushable loo, outside bucket shower (yes), running tap water, a day bed and chairs to chill out on was another andBeyond experience. The smile on my face said it all and I was quick to change and get my gear ready for a drive after a quick lunch.

 

Andrew met with me after lunch and I set up all the camera equipment on the car before heading out. He was a little amazed at all the stuff I started bringing out of my bag and it was a first for him with having the GoPros on the car. It was nice being able to talk about the equipment and to also share with him one of my DSLR cameras because I always take two bodies with me. He explained what was on offer for the afternoon and as soon as he said a pride of lion was 800m away on the other side of the creek he didn't need to say anymore.

 

Off we went on the big trek. Within minutes I was sitting on top of the roof, cameras out and ready, fly hat on and water close by. What more could you want?

 

We literally spent 4 hours with the pride, which was lioness' with some cubs. A decent sized pride that was quite active and an effective killing machine from what Andrew said. They were entertaining once the heat of the afternoon subsided and there were two non effective attempts to kill the evenings dinner. All in all a brilliant start to my Serengeti experience.

 

Once we returned to camp, I then showered and joined the other guests for the Bush TV, some drinks and a brilliant dinner under the stars. Seriously no better way to end a day in Africa!!

 

http://vimeo.com/84451618

Edited February 6, 2015 by SaminKaz

[SaminKaz]

@@Marks

 

I have never felt threatened on safari. I have had all the cats, elephants, buffalo, giraffe, gorillas and plenty of plains game within metres of the car during many of my drives normally with them coming towards us and not once have I thought "oh shit" but damn those bloody baboons scare the bejesus out of me. I have always thought that Alfred Hitchcook's movie The Birds should have been replaced with The Baboons for a scarier, spin tingling, scream inducing horror flick. One that produces biting nails and anxiety about what is going to happen next.

 

Lots of people think of the baboon as a primate who is kinda cute but not like their monkey and gorilla cousins. I look at the baboon as a devious undercover agent ready to infiltrate the enemy, retrieve the secrets and leave people not knowing what the hell just happened. The intelligence I have seen displayed by these animals has surpassed any of the other African animals I have spent lots of time with. They are cunning at understanding how to assess a situation, adapt and achieve their ultimate reward. Then god help you if you are between them and their goal because the consequences are normally not pretty. Well actually just bloody embarrassing really. All tourists are warned to keep car doors locked, tent flaps/doors closed and locked if possible, never leave food out or any other kind of enticement and be wary of your personal belongings with these critters around.

 

It all started out as a lovely trip to Vic Falls to see them for a second time. My guide from a local lodge accompanied me up to the parking lot and through the gate. We walked around and then I took myself off for another tour around the falls as I wanted to get video footage that I had previously missed. I returned to my guide and we then returned to the lodge 4WD. As I approached the car I could see a huge baboon on the back of the 4WD ute next to us. I said to my guide that there was no way I was getting into my passenger seat with that animal there. The guide was all bravado and said "no worries" and walked over to the back of the ute. The baboon was still distracted with whatever it was doing and hadn't turned around to see the guide. I was thinking this guy had balls of steal as he went and hit the back of the ute with a bang. Next thing the baboon had turned around, eyes ablaze, teeth barred and a screech sounding like something was being murdered was emitting from this huge menacing animal.

 

The guide and I literally jumped out of our skin and I started running to the entrance to the falls with the guide in hot pursuit along with the bloody baboon. I raced through the gate along with the guide and we turned around to see the baboon sitting about 20m away in the middle of the road picking up some stuff from the ground and no longer interested in us. Michael and I looked at each other and laughed in relief over how we must have looked and I thanked god there was no witnesses. I said there was no way I was heading back to the car with the baboon in the middle of the driveway and just as I said it he ambled off to probably find his mates and tell them the funny story about scaring the stupid tourists. We headed back to the car and I asked Micheal to promise me never to antagonise a baboon around me again. Sheepishly he agreed and off we went to see the bungy jumping.

 

Now I just stay well clear of them. Not prepared to tell mum and dad about them when we visit Victoria Falls next week ;-)

[SaminKaz]

11 January, Serengeti Under Canvas Day 2

 

My First Kill!

 

Fortunately I was lucky to have Andrew as my guide at andBeyond's Serengeti Under Canvas. He was very professional in regards to asking about what I wanted to see and do whilst I was at SUC. My response was to see as many kills as possible. This was the one big thing that had alluded me from my previous safaris and something I really wanted to see. Andrew thought that seeing a cheetah kill was going to be my best bet whilst in The Serengeti and we decided to try and see what we could find today.

 

http://vimeo.com/84459583

 

We were first ones out of camp after I had assembled my GoPros on the car and had everything organised "just in case" we stumbled upon something on our way out. First light broke and we were surrounded by the migration as we searched for any signs of cheetahs on the plains and the horizon. We had some false alarms when I saw some hyena in the distance but finally around 7:30am we stumbled upon a mother and son. Being the first on the scene meant that we were soon joined by other cars as guides were curious why we had not moved after 10 minutes. Soon enough we were a group of up to 8 cars which was annoying but an unfortunate part of being on safari in such a famous area.

 

The mum and son were on the look out and the amount of cars surrounding them meant that they didn't have any opportunity to look for a feed. Andrew decided to move back from the pair and hopefully encourage other cars to move back as well to open up the area for any potential kill. Many of the cars were shoot and scoot varieties which meant that they were only hanging around for 20-30 minutes and then moving off to tick off another animal on their safari list. Andrew and I were in for the long haul. We settled down with coffee and biscuits, binoculars on hand and cameras ready. One hour became two, two became three etc until we were hitting the 4.5 hour mark. Andrew was hopeful that midday meant that most cars would head back to camp for lunch and he was correct. Only two cars remained and they too decided to move back and give the cheetah plenty of hunting space.

 

Fortunately within 30 minutes of opening up the area some impala started feeding within the vicinity of the cheetah who had now crouched down low in the grass so that we could barely see them. The suspense was beyond belief as Andrew and I waited patiently for the cheetah to attack. Without warning the cheetah mum struck and the four impala started running and jumping in every direction. I was shaking as I tried valiantly to record the attack and was surprised at how fast not only were the cheetah moving but the impala as well. The cheetah son joined in on the chase and I could see the impala running as fast as her legs would take her. Soon the kill was complete and Andrew turned on the engine and we drove within the recommended distance to see the cheetah mum dragging the dead impala to some area of cover to start eating. The son was on constant lookout so that all their hard won effort was rewarded instead of being taken away by a hyena or other predator.

 

The cheetah were visibly exhausted as they finally found some protected area to put their kill down in. They both rested a little before the son took the first bite whilst the mum stood guard. Soon the mum started to eat with the son standing guard. Within moments of the mum eating we could see that the impala was pregnant and that was maybe why she wasn't as fast as the other impala in her group. It was certainly a quick lesson in nature whilst watching these animals and an awesome yet humbling experience.

 

 

Finally after watching for 40 minutes we decided to head back to camp to check out the photos and videos. I was so surprised at how quick the attack/kill was and how fast the cheetah can run. This is something that no Nat Geo Wild show can really depict. Back in camp I enjoyed another beautiful meal and some wine whilst bragging how my patience finally paid off. Two other andBeyond cars had decided to return to camp thinking that nothing was going to eventuate and the guests were very disappointed about missing all the action. Definitely a safari lesson learnt and one I will continue to remember when out on drives in the future.

 

http://vimeo.com/84416394

[graceland]

What a fun and interesting take on TZ and the camps and safari experience! Love the videos...I have a go pro but never have had these great films. You have a steady arm!

 

Going to sit and read more this afternoon, before hitting the road.

 

Thanks for sharing your adventure!

[Marks]

Incredibly evocative writing...this reads almost like an article in Travel Africa (in truth, it's better than most). Your wait for the cheetah hunt certainly paid off. I imagine that must be a big benefit to having a private vehicle as opposed to trying to convince your vehicle-mates to wait.

 

Videos are also well-done. Great job capturing the cheetah action.

Loved the baboon story.

[SaminKaz]

This was the first time I have ever been been given a private vehicle and it was amazing. The camps must have been speaking to each other and arranged this for me but also the camps (apart from SUC) were not full at all. The joys of travelling in mid January and making it clear what I was looking for.

I am hoping the same when I am back there in April but with another company. Plus mum and dad are happy to just do what I suggest! ;-)

The video footage was taken with GoPros on poles but also a Canon Supershot50X on a gorilla grip (I have the two large ones for bigger cameras) which I wrapped around the pole in the car. This was amazing and allowed everything to be steady. Definitely a great investment.

Photos were taken handheld, monopod and with a bean bag.

[michael-ibk]

Very cool cheetah video! (And I must commend your musical taste - love this song.) Your patience certainly paid off. I think the prey is a Tommie, however.

[SaminKaz]

12 January, Serengeti Under Canvas Day 3

 

http://vimeo.com/84533752

 

I don't know about most people but I enjoy a bit of a sleep in when I can. But when I am in Africa my body clock is out of control and I am awake at the crack of dawn everyday. Cameras are checked, clothes put on, teeth cleaned and I am ready to roll. I normally beat the gentleman that comes to wake me up with some fresh coffee and biscuits, that's how excited I am that a new day has dawned and I am privileged enough to be there to witness one of earth's greatest spectacles - The Great Migration.

 

Andrew and I have gotten into a great routine. We are first out of camp and on the look out for cheetah. After our amazing cheetah kill from the previous day we thought we would continue the trend. We knew that the lions were around but it is the elusive triplet cheetah brothers that I wanted to see today.

 

So off we head into the dark night sky with only Andrew's excellent sense of direction. Luckily he has been with the company a while now and knows his stuff. He entertained me with stories of when he first arrived and had to figure out where the hell he was going and would often have to bluff his way with the guests as he continually went around in circles trying to find the track that lead back to camp because calling over the radio and asking for help would only result in too much teasing from the staff back at camp. We left the Ndutu based camp and drove through a forest area heading towards the open plains on the lookout. We wanted to be at the plains as the sun rose to try and find the brothers before other cars would inevitably arrive and we would loose our exclusive viewing. We drove and drove and drove. Binoculars constantly scanning the area trying to find them but even after 4 hours it was a lost cause. The plains were empty compared to the previous day with the migration having moved into fresher pastures.

 

We decided to join many other cars who were watching a pride of lions finishing off their kill from the previous night. The sun was getting hotter and we both knew that the lions were going to head for shade and rest until late afternoon. So we too decided to return to camp and plan for the afternoon's adventure.

 

http://vimeo.com/84425829

 

Hanging out in camp is always a novelty for me. Many people see their safari as a holiday and therefore indulge in enjoying what the camp offers. I look at the camp as a place to become well rested for the following day, go over my photos/videos and to eat and drink. Serengeti Under Canvas is a very well run and luxurious glamping option. The beds are unbelievably comfortable, the staff willing to go beyond to make your stay memorable and the animals on your doorstep provide all the entertainment you need to forget about modern technology and being bored. The food is brilliant and I need to remind the staff that I only want small portions so that I can try each course. I particularly liked the camp's soups and a glass of white South African wine as I looked out from camp to see animals passing by.

 

Feeling replenished and rested I decided to play it safe for the afternoon drive and stick to another pride of lion on the other side of the small creek who were seen in the morning. I was hoping for a kill but the lions were well fed and in no mood to look for food whilst surrounded by tourists. We heard on the radio that another cheetah was on the other side of the camp and had separated a baby impala from its mother. We headed over to have a look at the action.

 

The cheetah was a juvenile and spent 30 minutes playing with the baby impala whilst the mother looked on from a safe distance but obviously in distress. The cheetah's behaviour was hard for many of the spectators and a few cars left before the cheetah finally ended the life of the impala. One tourist was very vocal during the whole episode and nearly created a scene by yelling at the cheetah over three occasions. Finally her guide told her to be quiet and if she wasn't happy witnessing such an event then she needed to let her guide know for the future. This is nature and as distressing as it is this is the only way animals can survive.

 

 

After witnessing such a sombre event we decided to head back to camp to enjoy the bush tv (fire) and a bacardi and coke whilst watching the sun set.

 

http://vimeo.com/85093684

 

Where I stayed: andBeyond's Serengeti Under Canvas

 

This is my kind of place. Mobile camp that follows the migration. Awesome tents, bucket outdoor showers, flush loo, bush tv, fantastic/fun/proactive staff and lovely food/drink. I could live here if it weren't so expensive. I always book long stays to try and reap the great discount for 6+ nights stays which does help a lot. If you are doing things once then definitely try this place out for the trip of a lifetime.

Edited February 7, 2015 by SaminKaz

[SaminKaz]

@@michael-ibk Yes you are correct! My apologies.

[graceland]

What great videos, sightings and music. Your smile lights up your photos. I am sure Andrew dubbed you best client ever! I would have loved to been along!

 

I have not had the great luck with the Go pro...need practice as you truly show a safari as it happens; and not just shots of wildlife.

 

Totally Terrific, Thanks @@SaminKaz,

 

Heading out today to the airport - overnight and fly out am to the Maa.. Hope I can catch a bit more of this tonight! And I too would love to see a cheetah kill. Patience is a must! Have had many "almosts" and did see lion kill at migration and wild dog kills. But to see a stealth cheetah in action....wow.

[SaminKaz]

@@graceland I had great a cheetah kill in The Mara as well. I feel confident you will get everything and more there! Have a brilliant trip, the Mara is a special place that I am excited to take my parents to as well. I bed you are as excited as I am. I leave tomorrow but unfortunately we won't cross paths.

 

If you get a chance buy a GorillaPod http://joby.com/gorillapod to stabilise your camera on the side of the car for video and make sure you ask the guide to turn off the engine to stop camera shake. I used mine especially with the CanonSupershot50X which is what most of the up close/focusing footage is from. The GoPro stuff is mainly first person footage and really up close action used on a pole and on a suction cup holder on the front of the car or on the side.

[Marks]

@@SaminKaz Great videos as usual. My partner was with me was I was watching the first video in your most recent post, and she said that she loves the song you chose. So I suppose I should echo @@michael-ibk in commending your taste!

[SaminKaz]

Thanks for the complements. I actually listen to music and try and depict a movie that could represent the song in the best way possible. Also the other way around when looking at the footage I think ok I am going to use this song for that movie.

There is nothing better than looking back at the memories I have filmed from these trips and relive each of the experiences. Very excited to start again on Friday when we arrive in Livingstone! Now our Abu Dhabi plans are being tested due to high winds and sandstorms. It means my chances of photographing the things I wanted to is not possible due to the lack of clarity in the air. I can only hope that things improve on Wednesday because tomorrow is also a mess.

[SaminKaz]

14 January Ndutu to Klein’s Camp

 

This morning was my first “sleep in” of my trip so far. My flight for Lobo was leaving after breakfast and there wasn’t enough time to do a game drive. Well I thought I would get a sleep in! My neighbor next to me (the lady who yelled during the previous day’s cheetah kill) woke me yelling out to her butler that she couldn’t find her glasses. The butler was near my tent and she thought it was ok to just screech away. Wonders never cease especially when she yelled out again that she found them next to her bed on the table. So I decided to sit up and watch the bush come awake after it’s rest. The morning light in Africa is something that many people comment upon. Most of us struggle when we wake before a sunrise but in Africa we are and alert to see what the new dawn brings.

 

All of the camp had cleared out by the time I got out of bed and headed down for breakfast. This was my first one in camp and it was a delicious plate of bacon and eggs! I finalized my thank you cards/tips and had a last chat with some of the staff. Unfortunately, Andrew was already out with some new guests and I wasn’t able to see him before I left. With another lovely send off, I was soon off driving to the airstrip.

 

The Serengeti express arrived with all the guests excitedly looking out the windows. They all disembarked to be met by their respective guides from all the various camps in the Ndutu region. The guides obviously all know each other and it is a regular mother’s meeting, oh sorry catch up when everyone meets at the airstrip. My bag was placed into the hold and up I walked, sorry bent over as I went into the cabin and made my way to my favourite single seat just behind the pilots.

 

After a quick taxi down to the end of the runway we had turned around and were off. The trip to Lobo Airstrip in the north of the Serengeti didn’t take too long and before I knew it we were landing. Myself and another guest exited from the plane and our new guide met us. We went to the car to have our welcome drinks and made our introductions. The gentleman accompanying me turned out to be a photographer/advertising executive flying in from New York to take photos of a community based project training local woman in the art of honey making. Therefore, I was going to be the only guest in camp on safari. AWESOME!!

 

http://vimeo.com/84701324

 

Our drive to Kleins’ Camp was very different compared to my previous camps. The area was lush and green, kopjes (rock formations) were seen from the road and there seemed to be more trees and less plains and flat areas consistent with the area around Ndutu. We stopped to see some elephants and we encountered a tortoise which was a first sighting for me. On arrival into camp we were welcomed by everyone singing and a lovely welcome drink. The camp managers made the introductions and my bag was whisked off to my room as I was accompanied to the bar/communal area to sign my life away.

Kleins Camp is built on the side of a hill with amazing views from each of the rooms and the bar area. Each of the stone cottages have a lovely balcony, a beautiful large room with a fabulous bed and a huge bathroom with a shower and all the amenities. I changed quickly and went to have lunch in the dining room which unfortunately didn’t have the amazing views of the communal bar area. Once again andBeyond didn’t disappoint and the soups were a highlight.

 

The afternoon came and my guide introduced me to my tracker, which was a first on this trip. He decided to show me around the private concession to see what we could find. The boys were enthusiastic about all the great game they had on the private concession including excellent lion prides, giraffes, elephants and wild dog was seen 2 days prior. Of course all the other resident game was around as well.

 

The boys and I hit the track and went out to explore. We came across an awesome herd of elephants, which displayed amazing behavior that was new to me due to having some young ones in the group. This was genuinely beautiful as the area they were in was so green and lush and a stark contrast to the elephant’s tough, grey, weathered skin. The peacefulness of the elephants and the elegance of their synchronised eating was hypnotizing. The three of us enjoyed the elephants for an hour before going off to find some lions. Unfortunately, the lions eluded us during the daylight hours but we continued into the night for a night drive and came across the pride that the guide had spoken to me about and also a cheetah. It was a beautiful evening because the moon was full and the light sent a beautiful silvery glow across the concession. I definitely was experiencing an outer body experience with how stunning my first day was and how privileged I felt to be experiencing this.

 

http://vimeo.com/84426254

 

We left soon after because the drive back to camp is a bumpy and uphill one. Upon arriving into camp I was whisked off to dinner and it didn’t disappoint! What another amazing andBeyond experience in a gorgeous location.

Edited February 9, 2015 by SaminKaz

[penolva]

Sorry if you already said but which go pro do you use?. Love the videos and your writing style.

[SaminKaz]

I use GoPro 3 and a Canon SuperShot50X. The accessories I use are a suction cup mount, a joby gorilla pod attached to the car on one of the posts, iPole (selfie stick), Go Pro head mount and Go Pro chesty. I use iMovie on my iPad for all movies I make because I like to produce as quickly as possible when on the road and show my guide/staff in camp which is always a nice talking point and I love to hear their feedback and ideas. When panning it is important to be slow and to reduce wobble as much as possible. The selfie stick and gorilla pod help a lot with this and allow me to pan nicely. The gorilla pod also helps for just still footage and I can tighten the ballhead and the camera will stay in place and continue to film. This then means I can take photos at the same time instead of concentrating on one or the other. These accessories also allow me to also film myself which is the ultimate problem when travelling solo.

Hopefully these ideas can help.

[penolva]

Thanks for the info. I had a look at the Go Pro4 with its night shots and time lapse. Have to save up for one! Have a great next trip. Pen

[SaminKaz]

I think for an all-in-one camera then look at the Canon. This is an excellent bridge camera and takes wonderful video, is light, has a full screen viewfinder and great reach. More versatile than a GoPro but not as portable and suitable for a selfie stick.

[SaminKaz]

15 January, 2014

 

Kleins Camp

 

The boys organized a morning exploring around the reserve to see if we could find the lion pride again from the previous night’s drive. It didn’t take long for the boys to find the group and they were all enjoying a morning walk together. This was an amazing experience as the group had lionesses and cubs. They allowed us to walk with them for over two hours as they followed tracks and then went off road. They caught up with some other lionesses and became a pride of about 12 walking, investigating and playing. This was a brilliant experience enjoying the solitude of the sighting, which normally would be shared with others on a safari.

 

http://vimeo.com/84531117

 

After the pride moved into bushes that we couldn’t navigate we decided to see what else was on offer. We drove back towards a more open area and could see a large herd of giraffes making their way through the concession. I have never seen so many before in one sighting and thought that these animals were more solitary than staying together in such a large group. In the background I could also see other plains game and baboons all within the vicinity of the giraffes. There was plenty of juveniles with the group and the elegance and grace of them move together was stunning. The giraffes were on the other side of a small ravine and were a little wary of our presence. We stayed quiet and still and just enjoyed these majestic animals eating and crossing the ravine. It was very interesting watching them navigating their way down the sandy slope as they slid down. This sighting was also a long one and soon my guide was asking if I wanted breakfast.

 

Feeling hungry I agreed and he turned around and drove up the clearing to a higher viewing area so that we could watch the giraffes make their way up. We all got out and started unpacking the equipment because we were having a bbq bush breakfast. My favorite way to eat is outside and a bush breaky is awesome. Soon the smells wafting from the bbq made my mouth water as I organized the chairs/table and drinks. Egg requests were taken and soon the three of us were enjoying a million dollar view with a breaky to match!

 

http://vimeo.com/85095229

 

After enjoying such a special morning we returned leisurely back to camp where I could go through the photos and videos. I pulled a chair up to the panoramic window in the communal area, grabbed a cold drink and breathed! Life was good and to have had two such amazing sightings in one morning is pretty mind blowing.

 

The afternoon we decided to head to a local village. I really wanted to see a Masai village that was real and not manufactured “Disneyland” style for the tourists stopping by. My guide knew of some villages about an hour away that had no contact with tourists and off we went after lunch.

 

This was a brilliant experience and not for the fainthearted. The children in the camp were wonderful and for many they told my guide that I was the first white woman they had met. The men were out bringing in the animals so it allowed me the opportunity to walk around with the children and to meet some of the wives. The joy in the faces of these children was special and being able to show them my videos on the iPad was very cool. I took lots of photos and videos and put everything on the iPad for them to see themselves.

 

The children and my guide then accompanied me into a small house where I was punched with the smell of smoke from the fire inside. My guide explained how the family slept and where the small animals stayed until they reached a certain age. Soon I was too hot and we went outside.

 

Soon the sounds of the animals returning for the night was evident and we headed to the enclosures to watch them arrive. The flies and smell was intense as I patted and held baby goats. I watched as the Masai completed their duties so that the animals were safe for the night. My guide explained how the enclosure was built and how it is reinforced.

 

http://vimeo.com/84686109

 

Soon the Masai were finished with their duties and I was able to meet with them. I was desperate to buy a Masai sword so my guide asked if it was possible to purchase one and soon a deal was done and I was the proud owner of a legit Masai sword. It was dark now and I knew we needed to get back to camp for dinner. I thanked my hosts and had one last photo before we bundled back into the car with two extra children who needed a lift to the next village. This was really special being able to see and hear their excitement with riding in a car for the first time. A huge smile on my dial from a brilliant experience.

 

Where I Stayed - andBeyond's Kleins Camp, Northern Serengeti

 

This property is on it's own concession which opens new possibilities to the safari traveller. Travelling during the low season allowed me near exclusivity as being the only paid guest on safari. The property is solid stone cottages dotted along the ridge of a hill overlooking the concession and offers amazing views. Each cottage has a private balcony, large bedroom with a kingsize, fourposter bed and a huge bathroom with double sinks and open showers.

The brilliant communal bar area offers sensational views from a huge panoramic window, bar, wonderful pit fireplace and super comfy chairs to sit and contemplate everything that is going on around us. I managed to see three lion sightings from the window as I was enjoying a drink so always keep your binoculars with you. Alert signs from plains game means that something is out there.

A lovely dining area (no view) provides guests the chance to dine in style with wonderful food and service from the lovely staff who are always happy to go above and beyond.

I thought Kleins Camp offered the opportunity for a guest to experience a different landscape compared to the flat plains of the Serengeti near Ndutu and complimented my trip wonderfully. I would definitely recommend this beautiful camp.

[pault]

So lovely and green up in the north. Sounds like off-season was good up there in northern Loliondo too. Did you mostly stay in the concession area or in and out of the national park too?

[penolva]

I think for an all-in-one camera then look at the Canon. This is an excellent bridge camera and takes wonderful video, is light, has a full screen viewfinder and great reach. More versatile than a GoPro but not as portable and suitable for a selfie stick.

What are your go to settings for the GoPro videos you took in the Serengeti?

Edited February 15, 2015 by penolva

[amybatt]

Just checking for more of this TR! Have loved it so far!

[SaminKaz]

@@penolva I used 1080 W, 48 FPM on the Go Pro 3. The Canon was just in record mode and using the zoom whenever necessary whilst the camera was attached to the car with the Joby gorilla.

 

@@pault I stayed in and out of the concession. Next instalment is out and what a sighting we had!

 

@@amybatt I am researching my next trip report and in Etosha NP. Will try and post more this afternoon when I get a chance to be online for a few hours. Now off to find some animals and more adventure with my newly intrepid parents.

[SaminKaz]

16 January, 2014

Kleins Camp – Mara River Drive

Today the boys are taking me on a drive. A long drive to see the Mara River. This will be my first opportunity to see it and I am pretty excited. The morning is a little fresh whilst we drive along in the open vechicle but with a few strategically wrapped blankets I am snug as a bug as we drive off the private concession and through the Serengeti Park. The drive works it’s way along a tsetse fly area which I didn’t know until I was bitten and uttered a loud expletive. Those things really do have a bite! I can’t believe they can get through all the layers but they are obviously a fly with a mission.

Halfway through our drive we are all searching for potential animal sightings my amazing tracker yells out “lion” and points to the right. The guide and I are searching over the high grass and wondering if the tracker was correct, when we see the head of a lioness and off we go to see what is there. Driving slowly towards the sighting we come upon a clearing where we find three lionesses with about 12 cubs which the guide said were about 3-4 weeks old. The noise these cubs made was unbelievable and I felt as though I was in the maternity wing of a hospital. Then my guide pointed out to me that there were some more lionesses on the other side of the car. These two “aunts” were just hanging around and keeping the little ones in-check as they continued to cry for their mums and demand continuous feeding.

I was completely blown away with the magnitude of such a sighting and especially the size of one of the female lions. She was an unusual pale lemony color with piercing yellow eyes. I have never felt unnerved by a lion except when this mum gave me a look as she stood up during our sighting. She was an exceptionally beautiful and huge lioness.

 

http://vimeo.com/84653187

The cubs continued to follow their mums around the car as they demanded to feed and the fight amongst them clamoring over their stomachs to find any available teat was hilarious. The pushing and shoving reminded me of the sibling rivalry amongst many families.

After a glorious 60 minutes watching these impressive cats we knew we had to hit the road again. We briefly stopped by to see the two dads who were off to the side, sleeping in the shade. They gave us a courteous glance and then laid their heads down to continue their rest.

Back on the road again we came upon elephants, giraffes and plains game before finally arriving at the Mara River. The water was very low and the resident crocodiles were all out sunbaking along the banks of the river. The size of these crocs is very impressive and coming from Oz I am always a little wary of these animals. These crocodiles certainly had a smile and more as they casually looked over at the potential meal that my guides and I seemed. After the customary photos and videos we returned back to the car to prepare our lunch.

I really can’t say enough about the food on this trip and once again I was pleasantly surprised with a fabulous chicken and salad lunch, cold South African white wine and desert that I forgot about. It was brilliant to sit down with the guys, enjoy a meal and a chat. This was one of the highlights of being alone in the car and enjoying each other’s company as we shared the beauty of the area.

After packing up our meal we were then ready to head back to camp. Maybe it was all the good food at lunch but we ended up getting our axle stuck on a ridge on our way out and therefore the wheels had no traction. The boys showed their brilliance and bush craft knowledge by getting out the winch, lifting the wheels and throwing some branches underneath and within 10 minutes we were on our way again.

 

http://vimeo.com/84972989

The drive home was not as memorable as the drive in apart from the incredible sighting of a black rhino on the side of a hill at least a few kilometers away. Once again the guide and I were stunned at the brilliance of the spotting and we drove along the road watching the rhino for a few minutes before we moved on again.

We finally reached home as it was getting dark and it was time for dinner. A brilliant day out with unbelievable sightings and I didn’t even see another car for the whole day!

Edited February 23, 2015 by SaminKaz