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My Amazing African Adventure!


SaminKaz

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@@penolva - The zoom part of the films was done with a Canon Supershot 50x. I used the Canon along with the Go Pros.

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@@SaminKaz thanks I couldn't figure the zoom shots with a Go Pro! You have a drone as well now? Did you and your parents have the boat to yourselves? I remember seeing it on the Chobe River, it looks very nice. Pen

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  • 1 month later...

Yes bought a drone prior to the trip. It was fantastic to be able to take footage from the sky.

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Monday, 16 February, 2015

 

Livingstone via Simonga Village to the Ichobezi River Boat (now Chobe Princess), Chobe River, Namibia/Botswana

 

With our bags packed again we were ready for our departure via Simonga Village to Kasane where we would board the Ichobezi River Boat (now called the Chobe Princess). I had visited the Tongabezi School and Simonga Village two years before and spent time with the elders and children. It was such a wonderful experience that I wanted to share this with my parents. This time we decided to bring “Pack for a Purpose” items that we would donate to the local school because I knew that the Tongabezi School was subsidized heavily by the guests staying at Tongabezi Lodge, whilst the local school relied on government support or donations from the odd tourist. We were lucky that our visit was at the beginning of our trip so we could bring a lot more items than normal.

 

I had made arrangements to have a guide from Tongabezi Lodge to take us across to the village school. This would allow us to have a translator as well. We drove over to the school and were welcomed by the children. I decided to head down to the open area near the school to put the drone up whilst I had some space to test it out before heading onto the Chobe River. After taking some great footage with the children and showing them how the DJI Phantom 2 works we then headed up to the school where I was welcomed by the principal.

 

Mum and dad had already gone up with the Tongabezi Guide whilst our driver who happened to be from Simonga village stayed with me. When I joined them we were shown the classrooms and I spoke to one of the classes where I told them a little bit about us and what we had donated to the school.

 

I was a little concerned with the items we were donating actually making it to the children. My mum had pulled me aside and said that my parents were asked to speak with the principal in her office on the pretense that they needed to sign the school register. Once there, my parents were told a story from the principal saying how expensive it was for her to commute from Livingstone to the school each day and a number of other “guilt laden” stories. This seemed to be a ploy to have my parents “donate” money to the principal.

 

When mum told me this outside the classroom I informed her that the government gives the teachers/staff money to make the commute from the town to Simonga and the Tongabezi guide and our own local driver also backed this up. I then became very concerned that everything we were donating was going to go home with the principal and not the children. After speaking with the children I asked to see the register of gifts book that the guests sign when visiting the school (as I had done two years previously) and was handed an exercise book which my parents had signed. I made it very clear to the principal that I had visited previously and I knew there was another book that listed all donations from foreigners to the school. She looked very flustered and then went “searching” for the book, which she happened to find after a minute. I looked inside the book and saw that my details and signature was there from my previous visit but that the items I donated did not have a description of where they had been distributed. I questioned this with the principal and made sure that the Tongabezi and driver saw what I was doing. I made a point of writing down everything we had donated and made it clear that I wanted to see that the children received these items and not the staff. In my heart I knew that the kids were only going to see maybe 25% of our donations. It made me think to donate the items directly to the children and not to the school so that they can take the items home themselves. A sour note was felt as we left the school and continued our way to the Kazungula crossing where we would complete our Zambian formalities before taking a boat to Botswana.

 

Once we arrived in Kazungula we completed the customs formalities and loaded up the boat that we would use to cross over the Chobe/Zambezi River to Botswana. Upon our arrival on the Botswana side of the river we then had to go through foot and mouth checks where we walked on a mat that was wet with some solution to prevent the spread of the disease. We then completed our Botswana customs formalities and continued our drive into Kasane where we would then leave Botswana (more border formalities) and take a boat to drop off our bags before heading to Impalia Island to finally complete our day of custom stamps by getting our Namibian entry stamps.

 

The boat was already at the Kasane customs area when we arrived and the lovely guide was loading our bags whilst we went to get our passports stamped again. We then made our way down the dilapidated ramp to the lovely photography boat that I was able to secure for our time on the Chobe. Like many photography boats it was flat bottomed with 6 custom made swivel chairs and heavy duty mounting that had a quick release base plate. I was super happy to have access to this during our stay and it allowed my parents and I to have plenty of space with great stability.

 

After we completed our Namibian customs formalities we headed back to our home on the Chobe for the next 3 nights. I was absolutely delighted in my choice of the Ichobezi (now Chobe Princess). When first looking at this part of the trip I was worried about the heat during February and the lack of air con in our rooms. Thankfully, the boat had just gone through a full revamp and each of our rooms had air con and were kitted out with new beds, linens etc. My parents were ecstatic with their room at the front of the boat, which allowed them to open the double sliding doors and access to a small landing at the front.

 

We went upstairs to the main communal area with a stunning 360 degree view of the Chobe and its surrounds. The lounge area had some lovely comfy chairs and sofas, a self serve bar behind us with cold drinks, a long table for 8 was close by for our communal meals and outside on the open deck was sun lounges and a small spa that was ideal for putting your feet in whilst cruising. The views were stunning and I shed a happy tear to be so lucky to enjoy such an amazing location on such a fantastic boat. Mum and dad were speechless and just sat down to enjoy the views with a lovely meal and a cold drink. Unbelievable way to the start of our African mega trip.

 

Be prepared:

When travelling from (or vice versa) Livingstone to a Chobe River Cruise there are many more border formalities than normal because you are leaving Zambia, entering Botswana, leaving Botswana and entering Namibia.

Foot and mouth is prevalent in the Caprivi Region so there are precautions taken for this including having your car sprayed underneath (depending on where you have come from) and walking on a mat to eradicate any of the disease on the soles of your shoes.

To travel to Kasane you will be going by road and boat. Be prepared for the onslaught of touts at the Kazungula border check. There can be a line up at the customs office so give yourself about 30 minutes to complete the formalities if you don’t have an assistant with a “friend” inside the office.

Kasane has a good little grocery store if you need to buy ice, snacks, water etc. Money exchanges, atms and petrol stations are also available. There is also plenty of tourist offices to book any kind of service or hotel etc you could need.

 

Where we stayed:

Ichobezi Riverboat is now the Chobe Princesses (they are now under the umbrella of the Zambezi Queen group)

Unbelievably brilliant riverboat experience. This was at the start of our mega African trip and we were spoilt beyond belief! My mum is still talking about our time spent whiling away along the Chobe River and the delicious food that was provided. The added benefit of unlimited drinks contributed to a stress free holiday experience (not the same conditions now from what I have seen on the website). The game viewing was wonderfully comfortable from the upper deck of the riverboat where my parents enjoyed plenty of elephants from the comfort of their lounge chairs or from the luxury of your own little boat. The staff were very accommodating and available anytime to assist. The rooms were newly renovated and had air conditioning, which added to comfortable sleeps. I would definitely recommend booking at least 3 nights on the boats but I think 4 nights would be better to really relax and enjoy the boat. Prices have increased significantly since February, 2015 and there is also now a higher single supplement.

We were the only guests for the first night and then joined by two couples for the last two nights of our stay.

 

 

https://vimeo.com/144653467

Edited by SaminKaz
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Ichobezi River Boat (now Chobe Princess), Chobe River, Namibia/Botswana

 

Tuesday, 17 February, 2015

 

It is not often someone can say that they are sitting under a blanket of stars. Tonight is that night for me. Docking at Ichobezi’s second docking station far up the Chobe River with Botswana on one side and Namibia on the other I feel like a princess with a sky full of diamonds shimmering above me.

 

As I sit on the front deck of the houseboat I see fireflies flying around in the tall grasses. For an Aussie, fireflies are a fictional insect, which one reads about but never sees. Tonight they flutter around me turning their lights on and off, like we would a light switch at home. In the distance I can hear the deep guttural sounds of hippos as they share the latest gossip from their day’s adventures, frogs singing to each other and the intermittent sounds of fish breaking the water’s edge. I search for satellites orbiting the earth and hope that I will see a shooting star.

 

The standout here of the night is the stars. I have never seen such a blanket of them before. The intensity of them is breathtaking. The ability to identify constellations that one has learnt from high school but never seen is a reminder that there really is more out there. The cascade of stars called the Milky Way shows the true representation of what the name means. Something that one doesn’t see from the big city where the light pollution limits at least 50% of your viewing pleasure.

 

This is truly one of the most humbling experiences one can have. To be in the middle of nowhere, on a houseboat, listening to the sounds of the African bush and looking at a sky full of stars.

 

 

I really do feel small tonight.

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Wednesday, 18 February, 2015

 

Ichobezi River Boat (now Chobe Princess), Chobe River, Namibia/Botswana

 

I would have to say that our time on the Ichobezi River Boat was one of the most relaxing ways to safari that I have ever experienced. The ability to just enjoy the scenery and proximity to the animals from the luxury of the lounge area was almost too good to be true. If I didn’t have the FOMO then waking up around 8am and making my way upstairs to enjoy breakfast whilst enjoying my surroundings would have still given me a brilliant time.

 

I loved the fact that the communal dining/sitting area was completely open to the elements allowing us nearly a 360 degree opportunity to view the animals and the activities on the Chobe River all the time.

 

The staff on the river boat were lovely and allowed us a lot of privacy whilst staying in the crew quarters and kitchen areas unless they were bringing out dinner or cleaning our rooms. Rooms were kept clean, the beds were very comfortable, rooms were quiet and the bathroom was small but adequate (it was important to not drink the shower water and to use the bottled water for brushing teeth etc).

 

I enjoyed plenty of time out on the photography boat with early morning and evening sessions to see what we could find along the river. Most days my dad joined me but mum normally came out in the afternoons. She preferred to enjoy her mornings from the lounge chair.

Animal sightings were concentrated on elephants and we were able to have some amazingly close encounters with these stunning creatures from the water’s edge. It was fantastic to see them bathing, interacting with their families and the other animals from the Chobe National Park all coming down to the river for their daily drinks. Sightings included but not limited to impala, elephants, crocodiles, hippos, waterbuck, fish eagles, egrets, storks, puku and many other types of birds.

 

 

I certainly hope that I get to experience the Ichobezi (Chobe Princess) again in the future. It was the perfect combination of animals and relaxing for any type of tourist.

 

https://vimeo.com/144662922

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Thursday, 19 February, 2015

 

Chobe River, Kahane to Camp Kwando, Kwando River, Namibia

 

Unfortunately, our time on the Ichobezi was at an end and we were due to pick up our rental car from Kasane after we had cleared customs. With our bags packed the boat slowly made its way back to Impalilia Island and then to Kasane where we would disembark and go through the multiple entry/exit stamp process again. We met up with Eddie at Kasane who had brought up the car from Windhoek which allowed us to skip the rig moral of a flight down to Windhoek and then driving back up again to Etosha. This way we could experience the Caprivi region of Namibia where not many people have travelled.

 

We stopped by the shops in Kasane to pick up snacks, water and softdrinks/tonic water and loaded up the car fridge. With a full car and Eddie as our extra guest until we reached Katima we were off. We made our way through the Chobe National Park and encountered impala, giraffe and kudu before heading down to Ngola to where we needed to leave Botswana and then enter into Namibia again for the final time. We encountered another foot and mouth stop at the border and this time the car was sprayed to prevent any cross contamination.

 

After dropping off Eddie at Katima we were on our own and went to exchange some money and grab some lunch. We had decided that we would put money into a kitty and use that to pay for petrol and provisions jointly which worked out fair and saved having to ask for receipts and get money from each other depending on who bought what. After driving through Kongola we continued the straight drive down to Camp Kwando which was nearly a four hour drive from Kasane.

 

The outside temperature was 35 degrees and being in the coolness of the car with our first world air con was lovely. The drive was easy and borderline boring with all of us remarking about how similar it was to driving in Northern Queensland. Villages doted the roadside along with lovely picnic spots every couple of kilometers. Apart from our drive through Chobe where we saw a giraffe, warthogs and a kudu we had no other game sightings.

 

On arrival at Camp Kwando around 2pm we were welcomed by the lovely staff with cool drinks and shown our tree house rooms along the river. The rooms were extremely large with four poster beds and netting, large decks and huge bathrooms with bathtubs and separate showers. I immediately opened all the windows and put down the mosquito netting to prevent any friends joining me when I would eventually go to sleep. After getting settled we decided to head down to the communal area for a drink and to check out the wildlife.

 

 

The Caprivi strip has been a pleasant part of our trip but unfortunately it has come after our awesome Chobe River cruise on the Ichobezi. This means that the sightings along the Kwando Rivers was a far cry to what we saw on the Chobe and a little disappointing.

 

Where we stayed:

 

Camp Kwando

A very relaxed camp along the Kwando River. A great place to break the journey of driving along the Caprivi Strip. Different style rooms are available as well as a camping option for all budgets. Activities including fishing are available as an additional charge for guests. The Tree House rooms were very large and luxurious; they are hot during the summer months with no air con. Food was included in our stay but drinks were extra. Prices were extremely reasonable and I would easily stay here again.

 

https://vimeo.com/144661809

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Ichobezi River Boat (now Chobe Princess) - I was very interested in your account of this. It appears you book this like a lodge. Do you recall if you were told there must be a minimum # of guests or it does not "sail"? I am wondering about how a solo booking might work. It seems the boat offered you a wonderful venue that actually spoiled you for your next river opportunity on the Kwando River. But Chobe River is hard to beat.

 

What is really impressive about your Chobe cruise is that Feb is not prime wildlife viewing time along the river and you still did well.

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@Atravelyn

 

I booked this like a lodge and was told there no minimum guest requirement to sail in February, 2015. I am not sure about this now but from what the website says it is still the same conditions. From what I understood from the staff they are generally cruising regularly during the high season but they do have moments during the low season where they are not full and cruising with only 1/3 rooms occupied.

 

I loved the February experience but last year there was little rain prior to and during our stay on the Chobe Princess. This meant that most of the larger animals, especially the elephants were coming down to drink from around 10am in the morning and late in the afternoon from 4pm onwards. We had expectations to only really see elephants and anything extra would be a bonus. We were definitely spoilt by the experience which we really understood once we made our way through the Caprivi region.

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Friday, 20 February

 

Nunda Camp, Caprivi, Namibia

 

We wanted to enjoy a little bit of a sleep in this morning but the early morning heat made sure that we were all up, awake and packed by 8am. I organised the car and drove it down to the main parking area so that we could easily leave after we finished our breakfast.

 

One of the joys of our trip was the fact that I didn’t want to drive long distances when we were on the road because we were in a rush with the time frame. By limiting our drives (except for one day) to an average of 4 hours or less meant that we weren’t having to rush in the mornings to leave early, we could take our time, enjoy the scenery, drive and be in the luxury of our air conditioned car during the hottest time of the day. This was the benefit of having a trip planned over such a long time. It would also allow us to arrive in camps mid afternoon depending on what activities I had planned so we could unpack, enjoy the facilities and understand what our options were in regards to the activities on offer or parks we could visit close by. It also meant that we could enjoy a little sleep in on our departure days and enjoy a leisurely breakfast. We were on holiday after all and I didn’t want to push mum and dad too much that they would not enjoy the whole experience.

 

After a nice breakfast we were refueled to hit the road for our 3 hour drive to Divundu where we would be staying at Nunda Camp which was situated on the Cubango River. We stopped by Divundu to refuel and pick up some drinks but there was no tonic water for mum and dad. The stop showed me some of the ingenious ways used to help people who are in more remote areas throughout Namibia that don’t have enough people for a permanent bank. There was a portable ATM stationed outside the supermarket along with an armed guard for anyone wanting to withdraw money. It came to the town 2/3 times per week and moved to different towns on the others days.

 

After stocking up we drove another 20 minutes off the main road to where our camp was based. We had a two night stay at this property and I had looked at doing a couple of the activities here including a sunset tour to Poppa Falls and a trip to Mahango Game Reserve. We had arrived quite early and the heat of the early afternoon was strong. We were greeted by the duty manager and her assistant and taken inside to go through the check-in proceedings and then shown to our room. Nunda Camp offered everything for everyone including ensuite campsites, cabins and waterfront chalets. I had booked us two waterfront chalets next to each other which were large and opened, once again the beds had netting, large bathroom with shower and toilet facilities. There was no air con at this property as well and very little breeze coming off the river although the rooms were thankfully well shaded.

 

We all went to our rooms to unpack and with the temps hovering around the 38 degree mark, dad and I decided to have a swim in the lovely pool. The water was very refreshing and was desperately needed. We then all went to sit outside along the river and enjoy the view with a couple of nice cold Windhoek lagers. With our iPads and books it was a lazy afternoon, cold beers and a fantastic African sunset whilst listening to the Cubango River as it passed us to feed the Okavango Delta further down in Botswana.

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Saturday, 21 February

 

Nunda Camp, Namibia

 

Today we visited the Mahango Game Reserve which was our first experience doing a self drive safari. Mum and dad were excited to see what we could find but I was worried because my best laid plans to start early were aborted when I forgot our money for the entrance fee and had to return back to camp. We ended up entering the park around 10am which was really too late but at least allowed us to be in air conditioning as the temps outside rose rapidly. The game reserve is located in the western end of the Caprivi Strip and forms part of the large flood plains of the Okavango River basin and is considered an important bird area with over 300 species of birds. It has a very rich diversity of mammal species with over 99 species documented. We did come across elephants, giraffes and plains game and lots of antelopes as we drove around. It was a great opportunity to test out our skills looking for animals without a professional guide. It was also really lovely to see the different types of habitats and flora including the wetlands and baobabs. We drove around for nearly 4 hours and decided to call it quits and head back to camp for a late lunch.

 

In the afternoon we went on a sunset cruise and up to Popa Falls (mainly rapids). Unfortunately it was just too hot to enjoy this activity with the sun blazing down on us for over the first hour. This was a bit of a bummer because I was looking forward to the trip but it was just too much. We visited the falls and took some photos and then enjoyed a leisurely glide back along the Cabungo River to camp. Dad enjoyed a sleep and mum dozed on and off. This heat really is a killer.

 

 

Tonight the heat is enveloping me like a suffocating beanbag tonight, even with the fan on and wearing a sundress. I am laying on top of the bed and hoping the temperature will drop soon. It is 9pm and I have been awake since 6am all due to this never ending heat. The insects are attracted to the screen of my laptop as I sit up in bed writing this post. I hope that writing it will encourage me to fall asleep quicker. The frogs are singing in unison outside trying to compete with each different species as to who is more superior. They too must be feeling the heat tonight thinking where are the rains.

 

All of the local people at each of the camps we have stayed at have complained that they have had very little rain this season. Many are predicting a “dry” wet season with the rains coming down from Angola not reaching the normal February levels. I am thinking selfishly that this will help our game viewing in Etosha, which is our next stop. A few travellers doing the clockwise route of Namibia and ending in Caprivi/Kasane said that the waterholes in Etosha were amazing due to the lack of rains and many didn’t leave the camp waterholes due to all of the game coming down to drink. I can only hope that we also have the same sightings.

 

Where We Stayed: Nunda Camp, Namibia

 

Nunda Lodge is a lovely property offering large, clean rooms with great views and excellent facilities. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay except for the behaviour of management with their staff who all seemed very timid and scared of their employers and who spoke to them in a way that I believe is disrespectful and reflective of times a past. I understand running a business is difficult but respect is paramount.

Room Tip: Waterfront chalets were lovely but all accommodation options looked great
Edited by SaminKaz
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Sunday, 22 February

 

Today was the longest drive of our trip and our information pack from our travel agent Discover Namibia has told us that it will be about a 7 hour journey. I added on another 2 hours for petrol, toilet stops, stretching the legs and lunch meant it was a very long day. The road was straight and flat with very little entertainment apart from local villages and the chatter. Dad slept in the back most of the way, mum hung out in the front being the navigator, dozing and I drove.

 

We had stopped for petrol at Divundu as recommended by our the fantastic guide that Discover Namibia had provided and drove straight through to Rundu where we filled up again and did a shop at the local ShopRight supermarket. Dad picked up some flip flops because he had broken his the day before and it was too hot for wearing enclosed shoes. We then drove on to Tsumeb where we filled up again, did another shop at the better equipped supermarket in the mall and grabbed some fast food late in the afternoon before finally arriving into camp around 5pm. We were all extremely happy to arrive and I was especially looking forward to the next week travelling around Etosha.

 

Where We Stayed: Onguma Bush Camp, close to Etosha NP, Namibia

 

Onguma Bush Camp is a brilliant property offering safari goers a lovely, well maintained camps suitable for different budgets. The rooms in bush camp were lovely large with air con, relaxing pool area, large and comfortable communal areas with a nice waterhole to watch the animals and great food. The staff were very service orientated which was great. My only problem is that the property was not in Etosha NP and meant a 30 minute drive into the park to get to the first waterholes. Apart from this Onguma is a very relaxing place for anyone visiting Etosha and the air con rooms mean that you will have a very comfortable sleep.

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Sorry to hear that some of your donations may not have been responsibly distributed. But it seems you have already made plans to avoid this problem next time.

 

This is truly one of the most humbling experiences one can have. To be in the middle of nowhere, on a houseboat, listening to the sounds of the African bush and looking at a sky full of stars.

Beautifully stated.

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Monday, 23 February

 

Well today was the day that I had been waiting for and why I had planned this trip to Namibia. We had finally arrived at Etosha and we had 8 days to enjoy it from East to West. We all woke fresh from a great sleep in a cool room, enjoyed an early delicious breakfast overlooking the waterhole and were ready to head off after packing the car for our day’s drive. I was super excited and had my guide to Etosha, a map on the iPad and the cameras sorted. I was using Etosha as an opportunity to enjoy the sightings and to introduce my parents to the animals and fill them in on some of my knowledge.

 

Our drive to the Etosha Von Lindequest/Namutoni Gate was slow due to the fact that we were still in the Onguma concession and needed to be aware of animals around us. Once we reached the entrance we were greeted by a very unhappy attendant who gave us a paper map to the park and sent us on our way. I asked her if we pay her the entry fee and she said we did it on the way out. Thinking we were all sorted we set out to discover Etosha.

 

Mum and dad’s excitement was infectious and we drove slowly on the main road into the park looking left and right to see what we could find, mum and dad became spotters and I took on the navigating and guiding. The main road is bitumen and a maximum of 80km an hour which I found a little high considering that animals are all around us in bush that is only 5m away from the side of the road. Many local cars were exceeding the speed limit as we were driving in and I am sure there are plenty of close calls and crashes due to this kind of hazardous driving.

 

Once reaching the Namutoni Camp the road become dirt/gravel but the bush land thins out and the Etosha Pan becomes evident. The starkness of the pan is amazing, sunglasses were necessary all the time due to how bright and light everything is. Our first stop was the petrol station in Namutoni to fill up and then we were off to discover Klein Namutoni, Chudob, Kalkheuwel and Okerfontein. Our plan for our time in Etosha was to drive, look, wait and discover. We wanted to visit what we were advised as the better waterholes that people spoke about but we also knew that animal sightings is not an exact science so patience and luck was necessary. When we were tired of hanging at a waterhole we moved on and we drove around to discover the different drives between Namutoni and Halali and up along the eastern side of the pan to Groot and Klein Okevi and Tsumcor.

 

Considering that the rains hadn’t arrived we were fortunate to take advantage of good animal sightings at the waterholes. Our success rate of finding animals at each was about 80% which I thought was excellent. We enjoyed excellent elephant, giraffe and plains game but unfortunately no predators. What was even better was because I was self driving I could control our location and move when we wanted to. It allowed us a lot of freedom, which I loved. Mum and dad were able to enjoy direct access to the animal sightings because they were sitting on the left hand side of the car so maneuvering the car to give them the better view was easy but it did mean that I couldn’t take many photos. This was an opportunity for me to just enjoy the animals and landscapes and to provide info to mum and dad from our guidebook and the general animal knowledge I had learnt from my previous safari guides.

 

It was a brilliant day filled with that ended when we returned to camp around 3pm. We were later than what we expected because when we reached the Von Lindquest Gate to pay for our entry tickets we were told we couldn’t pay there. This was contrary to the information provided when we entered that morning, so we had to turn around and go back to Namutoni to organize the tickets, which added another hour.

 

We had decided to try our luck at the Onguma waterhole in the afternoon and to enjoy the pool because it was incredibly hot and sticky. During the af

 

ternoon we discussed our plan for the following day and made arrangements to leave camp by 6:15am so we could be at the gate when it opened. It was now time to chill out by the pool and watching from the raised hide that allowed us to look for animals coming down to the waterhole. A pretty good day for all of us.

 

https://vimeo.com/144662550

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@@SaminKaz

 

8 days in Etosha ... I like the idea ... only west to east for us, in 2017 ... so looking forward with anticipation for next instalments.

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24 February

 

We all stumbled out for a 5:30am breakfast of fresh fruit, cereal, toast and bacon and eggs. The meals in camp have been fantastic along with the staff and facilities. The only problem was the heat in the communal areas due to a lack of breeze and the need to keep some of the tent windows closed because of rain. We have all been very relieved to enjoy really comfortable sleeps because of the air conditioning in our rooms. Once we have all refueled we packed the car with our gear and drove to the Von Lindquest Gate.

 

We arrived 5 minutes before the gate opened and were welcomed once again by the “friendly” gate attendant. We all said hello to her and drove through to the waterholes we had visited the previous day. We were the only people at Klein Namutoni and enjoyed a visit from giraffes, jackal and a lone hyena that I mistakenly thought was a lioness for just a second as it walked towards the waterhole from afar. Once again we continued to drive around the different waterholes like the day before with various sightings. The morning was not as successful as the previous day so we were happy to return to camp by 1pm for a relaxed lunch.

 

Mum and dad decided to stay at Onguma whilst I returned back to Chudob Waterhole and spent the whole afternoon there until the gates closed. I chose Chudob because the sun would be setting behind me and I could easily park the car and align it with the centre of the waterhole. I spent 3.5 hours just waiting and watching and finally I was rewarded with my first rhino sighting in Etosha. The moody male made his way down to the waterhole after finding a large log to scratch himself and then proceeded to chase away the giraffes that were in his way. It was a very entertaining sighting and I was able to get some great video and photos . I finally had to leave as I still need to get back to the gate before closing time. It was a fantastic afternoon and I returned back to camp to tell mum and dad what they missed out on.

 

https://vimeo.com/144662717

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25 February

 

Where We Stayed – Okakuejo Camp, Etosha NP, Namibia (NWR Camp)

 

I really loved Okaukuejo because I was prepared. After reading about the disappointing food situation my parents and I stocked up on snacks/cheese/biscuits/drinks etc and enjoyed our waterhole evenings having apperitivo like dinners with our drinks whilst watching the animals activities. It also allowed us to not leave the waterhole for FOMO. We had waterfront chalets which were clean, a little small, air con (fantastic), mosquito net, small balcony and a decent bathroom. The best thing was the 20m walk to the waterhole. The breakfast is ordinary but certainly edible and can provide enough sustenance for a big day out driving around the waterholes in Etosha. The pool area was closed due to maintenance but it looked large and family orientated. I will definitely stay here again and arrive prepared with food/drinks to enhance my stay at the waterhole, which is what it is all about.

 

· What we did – drove from Onguma to Halali to Okakeujo Camp, watching at the waterholes

· What we saw – rhino, lioness under a tree, ostrich/chicks, blue crane/chick, African wildcat, monitor lizard, waterhole – 3 rhino and 3 lionesses

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26 February

 

I think it is Thursday. I’m not sure and will need to check my iPhone for the day and date. Each day is running into the next with only the fact that I remember how many days I am staying at each camp the reminder to pack the bag and move on.

 

This morning I am watching the sunrise at the Okakeujo Camp in Etosha NP. The golden light is blessing me as the zebras come down to drink in large numbers. The sociable weavers are creating a racket above me as the first rays of the sun caress their massive communal housing of three high-rise nests. I have failed to wake at the sound of my 5am alarm so I am stumbling down to the waterhole at 6.45am. Too late for any cat activity but hoping none the less.

 

Last nights sightings were brilliant and worth staying up till nearly midnight. Unfortunately, we had a storm that circled the waterhole from the early evening and resulted in me putting the cameras away due to the ever-present sense of rain/wind/thunder/lightening. It was a refreshing change enjoying an evening with just binoculars.

 

Dad did himself proud with spotting 1 lioness and 2 rhino coming down to drink. Not bad for a novice safari goer. Both the cats and rhino came down for long drinks and at one stage there was a lion and a rhino together in one frame. Both must have come to a truce that the waterhole was everyone’s territory for the night!

 

· What we saw – rhino, lioness under a tree, ostrich/chicks, blue crane/chick, African wildcat, monitor lizard, waterhole – 3 rhino and 3 lionesses

 

Thursday Afternoon

 

The heat has been baking us alive since 5pm as we have religiously waited for the sun to set and the animals to arrive. Finally at 7pm the temperature has decreased from the afternoon’s 37 degrees. I think that my body has been cooked to the desired temperature and I can be served for dinner tonight. Dad has valiantly stayed with me and given up lunch in order to watch elephants come down to the waterhole throughout the hot day. I have rewarded him with Doritos and a gin and tonic. Fair exchange I say! Tonight will probably by the same but peanuts and cashews replacing the Doritos instead of the buffet dinner. The lure of the waterhole surpasses any need to eat and sleep properly. No wonder we are all tipsy tonight.

 

Thankfully tonight, I have been rewarded with an amazing sunset and the emergence of six giraffes making their way to the waterhole as I sit here watching the Okakeujo waterhole. The sociable weavers are making a racket above my left shoulder. My dad has told them to be quiet but of course they don’t give a damn. The sun is setting and the temperature has dropped at least 10 degrees, for them life is good and the equivalent of our happy hour. The setting sun is casting a glorious reflection on the giraffes as they come down to drink. The golden hour has passed us but the evening glow is still there. This is truly a magical African evening to remember.

 

Okakeujo Camp is less than 50% full. The heat and the threat of the rainy season have kept the tourists away except only the keen and the budget conscious. I am in both camps budget conscious and very keen so I am happy to accept being here with an empty camp. To share an evening like this with only a small amount of tourists is a treat and frankly only the sociable weavers are the loudest thing here apart from my dad ;-).

 

I think that dad’s condition tonight is partly due to mum. For people that don’t normally drink they are enjoying a very relaxing holiday as I drive them around, point out things and enjoy strong sundowners as they watch waterholes teeming with animals. Tonight, mum has complained that she couldn’t taste the gin so dad has obliged with another swig. This of course has been too much, swapped drinks and now they are enjoying a lubricated evening of animal watching.

 

I on the other hand sit with cameras poised, lap top on my legs and drink sitting on the stone-encrusted fence in front of me. The Bacardi and coke as well as the stunning evening was the stimuli to allow the words to flow. I can’t remember a night as beautiful as this. Waterhole and six giraffes silhouetted with a stunning sunset behind them. I feel really blessed.

 

· What we saw – plains game, 9 rhino in the waterhole, 4 lion (2/2), giraffe, elephants

Edited by SaminKaz
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I've read some nice things about that very waterhole here on ST. Sounds like a great time with your folks. I hope to someday be able to share a safari with mine.

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Us, being probably in the same age group as your mom and dad, have also discovered the joy of G&T at the sunset/braai time !

G&T with ice definitively helps fighting and chasing away the afternoon heat much better then cold beer :) ! Not to mention its benefits when the time of going to bed comes ...

Your vivid description of Okakuejo waterhole really does a great promotion for it.

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