Wilddog & Blue Bird's Kenyan Adventure - Good times at Laikipia & Blue Bird Climbs a Mountain

[ice]

@@wilddog

 

did you ever find out what had gotten the zebra? looks like a dog kill to me...was it a fully grown zebra?

[wilddog]

@@ice Hope you are not suffering too much and it did not spoil your trip. Well done jumping anyway!

 

No, I do not know what killed the zebra and Steve did not give an opinion. You may well be right as wild dog kills do tend to spill a lot of blood and the blood stain filled the track from side to side but no obvious tracks....

[pault]

That's an amazingly dark giraffe. Great views of elephants and really nice views all around. really nice kopje in the last photo of you.

 

You really are giving me a very good idea of what the place is like (well, I obviously can;t confirm that, but I beleive it! )

 

Goats in the heat..... tinkle, tinkle

[wilddog]

Thanks @@pault

 

....... trust me........ ;) I never lie............

[graceland]

@@ice

 

You jumped that! Just seeing that jumper, my heart jumps into my throat. I hope you continued on without too much trouble with those ribs. That must hurt like hell.

 

I guess that is why we buy med-evac insurance I know my DH would be jumping as well.

[ice]

@graceland@wilddog

 

well, unfortunately I took that jump at the very first day of my stay at LWC, so the following days on bumpy roads, chasing dogs were indeed not too pleasant. Never went to see a doctor (not until back home, that is), there is absolutely nothing you can do to "cure" broken ribs

[graceland]

@graceland@wilddog

 

well, unfortunately I took that jump at the very first day of my stay at LWC, so the following days on bumpy roads, chasing dogs were indeed not too pleasant. Never went to see a doctor (not until back home, that is), there is absolutely nothing you can do to "cure" broken ribs

On the positive side, you made it home in one piece (we hope!) a wild story to tell...and hopefully on the mend.

 

 

Those bumpy roads are hard on any well ripped physical body; sounds terrifying to attempt with broken ribs.

 

Take care.

[douglaswise]

@@wilddog: I am enjoying your report and that of @@ice. My wife and I plus a group of friends, some experienced safari-goers and some not, spent 5 nights at LWC in February last year and we all thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. I arranged the trip so was feeling some responsibility in case of disappointment among the others. My own focus was very much on the dogs and we couldn't have been more fortunate in that respect. However, even those less obsessed found plenty else to see. Steve is among the very best guides I have experienced. and Annabelle charming.

 

I was interested to read about the zebra kill. Was it a Grevy's? While we were there, there were relatively few to be seen (about 15). Notwithstanding, we found a Grevy's lion kill, saw at night a lion about to ambush another (the only lion we saw) and encountered a badly damaged animal that had almost certainly been attacked by a lion the previous night. Unlike plains zebras, I have been informed that male Grevy's are highly territorial and easy targets for lions.

 

The re-appearance and subsequent flourishing of wild dogs in the Laikipia region probably has several causes which have come together to their benefit:

1) The red soil and relative low elevation on the ranch supports scrub rather than open savannah and this,in turn, seems to allow huge densities of dikdik to thrive. According to Steve, these appear to form the principal diet of adult dogs when not having youngsters to feed. Under the latter circumstances, impala are added to the menu. From my very limited experience, I would not have expected the Laikipia dogs to take on a zebra. We did see them chasing a warthog one day, but it seemed to be more of a sporting endeavour than a serious attempt to add variety to the diet.

2) The arrival of the dogs followed not long after the ranches, previously maintained solely for domestic livestock production, transitioned to a mixed domestic livestock and wildlife model. Lions were at low density.

 

I doubt that dogs (or Grevy's) can survive high lion densities. In fact, if one visits the website of the Mpala Research Station (adjacent to LWC) one can find some posters by Dr Georgiardis, the previous Director. He has shown that, though the wildlife biomass has increased as less domesticated stock have been kept, there has been a tendency over time for the biodiversity and density of mesoherbivores to reduce. He postulates that the young of such species as oryx, hartebeest and various others are less resilient to the effects of increasing lion density than are common zebras, elephants, giraffe and impala. I very much hope that the dogs' current benign conditions aren't contingent upon this transitional period (now running out).

 

@@wilddog, you suggested that I write a trip report on my very recent visit to the Bale Mountains, given that we stayed at the newly-built Bale Mountain Lodge. You sent me a link, but the Safaritalk website wouldn't allow me access, stating that I wasn't registered. Re-registration obviously didn't help as I was informed that my username was already taken. However, I think I might be able to start one anyway without using your link. It might be a good idea if I first got someone at my end to teach me how to follow Matt's, no doubt excellent, instructions pertaining to adding pix to text. I am not computer literate. However, some of my photographs are much better than usual because I gave our guide the camera and didn't operate it using my shaky hands!

[wilddog]

@@douglaswise Glad you are finding the report interesting. The kill was a Plains Zebra; I guess they are easier to bring down, compared to a Grevys.

 

 

I was not aware of sending you a link.......in my PM. If I did my apologies. You just need to sign in as usual, go to the trip reports section, select Africa, the country you visited and start writing. Best advice is to write in a word document on your PC and then copy and paste your text (just in case you press the back button again and lose it!).

 

There are some instructions on how to post images in the text http://safaritalk.net/index.php?showtopic=14 and if you get stuck just ask for help. Lots of experts around and I know @@Game Warden will give you all the help he can.

Looking forward to hearing all about your trip....when you can

 

Just about to upload another installment, so I need to concentrate so I do not hit the back button..........

[wilddog]

In the afternoon we set of for a drive up to our planned camp site, near the previous nights kill. We saw plenty of wildlife on the way.

 

 

 

 

 

Once we got to the site for the the Laikipa team set about preparing the camp. The first priority was to prepare for our sundowners and evening meal, as the others would be joining us for a barbeque before we settled down for the night.

 

 

By the time the others arrived it was dark and as we stood chatting with drink in hand, I turned my head (with head torch attached!) and caught sight of a pair of eyes. It was a hyena checking out the kill site.

 

 

The food and catering was wonderful. For me (no offence to vegetarian members) but there is nothing that beats eating a steak, perfectly cooked on an open fire in the middle of the bush........ knowing you are being watched. That hyena was probably not far away

 

Once the meal was over the final preparations for the night were made.

 

The camp layout was a semi circle of vehicles and chairs forming a hopeful barrier. Our beds, which were super thick bed rolls, were centrally placed in the defensive arc; the guides had their bed rolls at the ends of the semi circle, and were each suitably armed. Barend with his rifle and the other, with his spear.

 

 

 

 

 

The most dangerous things we were aware of that night were mosquitoes; the one and only time we had come across them all the time we were in Laikipia.

 

As I settled down for the night I remember seeing @@Blue Bird , who was lying in his sleeping bag rubbing his head furiously, and thinking it was all very strange. The following morning it transpired he had been applying mosi repellent. Wise man; the rest of us had not thought to bring any and suffered the consequences; the night time mosi whining at the ear and I certainly had plenty of bites down my right arm.

 

Despite that and the excitement of sleeping in the open we all had a reasonable night with no noticeable disturbances.

 

In the morning we checked out the camera trap which we had set up at the side of the track beside the blood stain and we had had a few visitors.

 

 

 

No lions or dogs but and finally we had some shots of the elusive Aardwolf!

[graceland]

@wilddog

 

Enjoying this LWC report very much; more activity than dogs; I love all the elie action around the water. The nearly black giraffe was lovely. The leopard amongst the elies; amazing to see..and you got a quick snap!

 

Thinking the night out under the stars must have been amazing (except for the mossies) Cooking around the campfire is a delightful way to spend an evening with friends.

 

Did you all discuss what the process would be, if in the middle of the night, you needed a loo? Did Barend and the other guide say awake with their spear and gun? You wouldn't just get out and start walking about would you?

 

I'd never go to sleep wondering all this Just naturally curious.

And, I'd be interested in trying it.

[twaffle]

Love this report and all the adventures you're having. Those vulturine guinea fowl are beautiful and it looks like you saw lots of interesting animals. Nice photo of the leopard. LWC is certainly an area that delivers for the visitor.

[Sangeeta]

From everything I read, LWC keeps getting better and better for leopards all the time. When I was there, I saw a leopard steal a wild dog kill. How the dikdik population still survives here is a mystery, though.

 

Such a fabulous place for a full, rounded safari experience. Wonderful reading about your adventures, @@wilddog

[Safaridude]

Enjoying this report immensely.

 

I loved the sleeping arrangement you had. That's giving me an idea on my next trip!

[Game Warden]

That camp out looks awesome @@wilddog.

[Tom Kellie]

~ @@wilddog, this is a terrific image!

 

The composition makes me smile — a natural frame in flowering acacia, no less.

Your photographs draw me into the narrative. Whatever camera gear and settings you used yielded such fine images.

Photo after photo emphasize your subjects with clarity. I'm learning by looking. Centering the images in your trip report looks great on my computer screen.

Thank you for the bee box photos. They intrigue me, as I've never seen a bee box opened to better understand the mechanism supporting the honeycomb.

The two zebra species mixing is interesting. The Grevy's zebras are noticeably larger which surprised me. After being around Grevy's zebras for several days, Common zebras seemed diminutive by comparison, although they're by no means ponies.

The collared animals I've seen on safari have puzzled me. I was told that it was done for research, but I've never had it clearly explained what sort of research and what might be contained within the collars. Who's doing such research? I'm glad you mentioned it.

What has given me a special kick are the photos of lunch break and outdoor camping scenes. Really enjoy seeing that, as it's unlike anything in my experience on safari, although I've done so much earlier in my life with family.

Until I started reading Safaritalk trip reports I never realized that on many safaris meals and snacks are served al fresco mid-safari. I've never once seen anything more than a vehicle parked under an acacia with a blanket spread on the ground, no doubt manna from heaven for the local ant community.

Two days ago in an undergraduate class I handed back graded assignments describing field observation of invertebrates and wildflowers. A student asked what target a writer might have in mind when describing natural history for a general audience. I replied that writing which is compelling yet avoids coming across as a know-it-all is a blend of humor, transparency, slightly reserved yet at times boldly open, with a dash of wonder at what's been seen on dozens of prior occasions.

Your graceful, smooth writing pulls me along, @@wilddog, giving me an excuse to procrastinate writing my own trip report.

Many thanks for this gem of a trip report.

Tom K.

[KathBC]

Really enjoying catching up on this trip report and totally agree with Tom K -- the photo above is terrific! What camera were you using?

 

Loved the group of grevys shot and the one of the grevy with the plains zebra --such beautiful animals.

 

I too want to know what happens if you needed a pee in the middle of the night while outdoor camping!!!

[IamFisheye]

@@wilddog Lovely Trip Report

 

You saw so much more variety than I did on my visit just 2 months later. The whole area was so much greener for you. Can you believe that the dam where you lunched and the elephants came down to drink is the same spot where i saw just a pool of mud and catfish wriggling for survival. Your pics bought back memories of Hwange.

Edited April 6, 2015 by IamFisheye

[Marks]

Really nice cobra picture - and monster-sized cattle - on page 2. Thoroughly enjoying the rest of the report, as well, particularly the camera trap photos. An aardwolf is a huge reward for checking them!

[Tom Kellie]

@wilddog: First time that I've grasped that camera traps are available for safari use.

 

From the image it doesn't appear to be adapted from a regular camera, but something else.

Is it a thermal camera? Infrared? Trigger-flash?

Whatever it might be, you've intrigued me. Internet access in Beijing is limited, thus I've been unable to do a thorough search about camera traps usable on safaris.

Very glad that you included those shots. Thanks!

Until I've slept likewise, I'm unconvinced that I've truly experienced an African safari.

Basta to these high-thread count Egyptian cotton pillows!

If sleeping on Mother Earth's hygienic red soil is good enough for lions, why not me?

Really a terrific shot!

Tom K.

 

[wilddog]

Thanks everyone for their kind comments and interest in my trip report.

 

@@Game Warden the fly camping was fantastic and I am glad to hear it was inspirational for @@Safaridude . Thanks must go to the Laikipia Wilderness Team for the idea. Creative bunch!

 

@@graceland yes, the dogs had done a disappearing act after our sighting and Blue Bird and I felt very lucky to have seen them, and the lions, within the first couple of days. As I am sure you know the pups (in Laikipia) are old enough, in January, to travel with the pack, which by this time has left the den site and become nomadic ; so much harder to locate particularly in the undulating terrain.

 

@@Tom Kellie Thanks for your kind words and it is a pleasing image but luck and nature delivered this to me not my expertise at all. I have an SLR with 300 zoom and used Aperture priority, which is my norm.

 

Camera traps are great fun. I do have one but did not take it with me so this one belongs to the camp. There are a lot on the market, both still and video) and there has been a discussion about Camera trap makes and models somewhere in the Photography section which you may find useful.

 

Re collared dogs - this is now used in many areas/countries driven initially by their declining numbers, Africa wide. In most areas it is used to be enable researchers to understand more about the packs range and dispersal patterns, when packs splinter. It also helps monitor the health of the pack, and in some cases, intervene if they are injured by snare wires (human rather than natural damage).

 

I do not have the information on the Laikipia area research team or the full research aims.

 

@@KathBC @@graceland - Toilet arrangements.

 

Best advice - don't go............ BUT this is sadly not always possible.

 

2nd Best advice - wake your guide and ask him/her to check the area for you. Your safety is their concern

 

Please note the following is not advice but what I did.

Over the years I have had quite a bit of experience of visiting long drops or no toilets at night so....

 

In this case we were camped in an open area, no bushes nearby in, or by, which predators/ buffaloes/elephants could be lurking. I circled slowly around the fire, with head torch in hand. listening to every sound and constantly sweeping the open plain in front of our camp site to check for eyes/ bodies of animals and checking the ground for nasties.

 

I slowly walked past Barend's bed roll (he was aware I was up and about; Professional guides, although asleep, are alert to any sound or movement); I walked around, and right next, to the front of the vehicle and then a little way along the far side of it, scanning the terrain all the way and......... job done. My return to bed was equally cautious.

 

Enough now of my ablutions and back the Trip report the final installment of which will be posted in the next few days.

[Tom Kellie]

 

@@Tom Kellie Thanks for your kind words and it is a pleasing image but luck and nature delivered this to me not my expertise at all. I have an SLR with 300 zoom and used Aperture priority, which is my norm.

 

Camera traps are great fun. I do have one but did not take it with me so this one belongs to the camp. There are a lot on the market, both still and video) and there has been a discussion about Camera trap makes and models somewhere in the Photography section which you may find useful.

 

Re collared dogs - this is now used in many areas/countries driven initially by their declining numbers, Africa wide. In most areas it is used to be enable researchers to understand more about the packs range and dispersal patterns, when packs splinter. It also helps monitor the health of the pack, and in some cases, intervene if they are injured by snare wires (human rather than natural damage).

 

I do not have the information on the Laikipia area research team or the full research aims.

 

~ @@wilddog:

 

That's such a comprehensive and useful reply!

Many, many thanks, @@wilddog, for explaining that to me.

I hadn't yet explored the Photography section. Your suggestion tells me I'd better do so.

The entire camera traps concept on safari is new to me. Thank you for raising my awareness of it.

Ah, so that's why the collars have been attached.

Your explanation to @@KathBC and @@graceland with regard to matters of hygiene and safety is down-to-earth, thus practical.

I so enjoy your writing which is crisply factual, with a bemused smile.

To date I've never yet had my ‘rendezvous with destiny’ in needing to answer nature's call whilst in the field.

I wouldn't want anyone to even think of following my example, but I'm from the ‘No input, No output’ school of thought. My breakfasts are small on safari, typically no more than fresh fruit and juice with yoghurt, when on offer.

Your candor and down-home wisdom is so much appreciated.

Tom K.

[wilddog]

@@Tom Kellie ...........Please note I am referring to fluids only...........

 

Unfortunately when on safari it is risky to limit fluid intake in case of dehydration and this is exacerbated by our alcohol intake which, for the majority of safari-goers is part and parcel of the safari experience - sundowners, glass (or more) of wine at dinner etc

 

Inevitably the kidneys are working overtime well into the night.

[Tom Kellie]

@@Tom Kellie ...........Please note I am referring to fluids only...........

 

Unfortunately when on safari it is risky to limit fluid intake in case of dehydration and this is exacerbated by our alcohol intake which, for the majority of safari-goers is part and parcel of the safari experience - sundowners, glass (or more) of wine at dinner etc

 

Inevitably the kidneys are working overtime well into the night.

 

~ @wilddog:

 

Yes, of course. You're absolutely right.

Aside from a few glasses of South African Fish Hoek rosé spread out over seven safaris, I'm entirely abstemious, eschewing alcoholic beverages in favor of weaker drinks.

Liquids in the form of water and occasional fruit juices I consume all day on safari, solids — as little as possible.

At dinner I drink tea Kenya-style, with copious quantities of milk and sugar. It's completely unlike its namesake in China.

If my Chinese friends, colleagues and students saw me sipping what passes for ‘tea’ in Kenya, they'd probably burst out laughing.

What I really have learned to like is passion fruit juice. There's seems to be an endless thirst for it when I'm on safari.

I've been toying with the fanciful notion of a little first-time getaway to Sabi Sands, in South Africa. Perhaps a few days, no more.

It's presently only in the daydream stage, but thanks to kind suggestions from @@Peter Connan, it's edging nearer to the pre-planning stage.

One fact that caught my eye in one of dozens of trip reviews I read was that the staff at Leopard Sands is more than willing to supply passion juice as a sundowner for those like myself who seldom consume alcohol.

Such a small point, but I like that.

My health on safari, during game drives and in the evenings, has remained superb, which at age 61 is a blessing.

The only issue that ever arose was equatorial sun overexposure, which by the third safari I'd learned to prepare for.

Having written the above, it bears mentioning that if fortune ever brought my path across that of any Safaritalk member, I'd certainly be glad to share a glass of wine or its like. Habits and personal customs are meant to be cast aside on occasion, especially when meeting friends.

With Appreciation,

Tom K. (who would enjoy a glass of fresh passionfruit juice right about now...)

Edited April 12, 2015 by Tom Kellie

[graceland]

Thanks everyone for their kind comments and interest in my trip report.

 

@@Game Warden the fly camping was fantastic and I am glad to hear it was inspirational for @@Safaridude . Thanks must go to the Laikipia Wilderness Team for the idea. Creative bunch!

 

@@graceland yes, the dogs had done a disappearing act after our sighting and Blue Bird and I felt very lucky to have seen them, and the lions, within the first couple of days. As I am sure you know the pups (in Laikipia) are old enough, in January, to travel with the pack, which by this time has left the den site and become nomadic ; so much harder to locate particularly in the undulating terrain.

 

@@Tom Kellie Thanks for your kind words and it is a pleasing image but luck and nature delivered this to me not my expertise at all. I have an SLR with 300 zoom and used Aperture priority, which is my norm.

 

Camera traps are great fun. I do have one but did not take it with me so this one belongs to the camp. There are a lot on the market, both still and video) and there has been a discussion about Camera trap makes and models somewhere in the Photography section which you may find useful.

 

Re collared dogs - this is now used in many areas/countries driven initially by their declining numbers, Africa wide. In most areas it is used to be enable researchers to understand more about the packs range and dispersal patterns, when packs splinter. It also helps monitor the health of the pack, and in some cases, intervene if they are injured by snare wires (human rather than natural damage).

 

I do not have the information on the Laikipia area research team or the full research aims.

 

@@KathBC @@graceland - Toilet arrangements.

 

Best advice - don't go............ BUT this is sadly not always possible.

 

2nd Best advice - wake your guide and ask him/her to check the area for you. Your safety is their concern

 

Please note the following is not advice but what I did.

Over the years I have had quite a bit of experience of visiting long drops or no toilets at night so....

 

In this case we were camped in an open area, no bushes nearby in, or by, which predators/ buffaloes/elephants could be lurking. I circled slowly around the fire, with head torch in hand. listening to every sound and constantly sweeping the open plain in front of our camp site to check for eyes/ bodies of animals and checking the ground for nasties.

 

I slowly walked past Barend's bed roll (he was aware I was up and about; Professional guides, although asleep, are alert to any sound or movement); I walked around, and right next, to the front of the vehicle and then a little way along the far side of it, scanning the terrain all the way and......... job done. My return to bed was equally cautious.

 

Enough now of my ablutions and back the Trip report the final installment of which will be posted in the next few days.

@wildog,

 

Thank you for your highly specific and entertaining suggestions. I have only been to one mobile where my loo was outside the tent (Craig's in Mana was ensuite) as is Alex's mara-mobile Nkoromobo.

 

I went back and forth with Moli in Ruaha, as I am always up at night and he convinced me all would be well...unless I saw a pair of eyes staring back at me at that time -and if so, JUST RETREAT. The 20hr flight over had visions I did not wish to share with my poor DH. Truthfully the first couple steps over to the loo were a bit disconcerting; even with a flashlight; it is DARK outthere! Howver by the third night, I awoke at 2am remembering I had not brushed my teeth (gum hygiene extremely imp't in the bush) - and nonchalantly walked over to the sink outside and did a thorough cleaning. My DH thought I was totally bonker- quielty whispering, what the hell are you doing out there?; but I was confident if a lion were out around he'd had me by then.

 

I enjoyed the stars as well gazing about with brush in mouth

 

Glad you made it; I think I would as well! You've given me confidence!