Selinda, a ten years' love story

[Bush dog]

@@Big_Dog

 

Thanks, there will be more wild dogs later.

 

Chris Fox is the owner of Mwagusi in the Ruaha.

 

http://safaritalk.net/topic/13497-ruaha-;-mwagusi-17-years-after/

[CDL111]

Really enjoying the report, and I agree with you, in that nobody invests in a business not aiming to make a good profit. But I hope that I am right in saying that most ST are more interested in the game at the camps than the facilities.

[Game Warden]

The product « African safari camp», with a capacity of 6 to 12 beds, was a mainly a niche product, attracting real nature lovers.

And I think that product still does, from the comments in this and recent Safaritalk topics. Except, are they being left behind in pursuit of luxury?

[Bush dog]

But I hope that I am right in saying that most ST are more interested in the game at the camps than the facilities.

I would say most STers that are regularly active. What about the others?

[Bush dog]

2001

 

Continued

 

I consider Kanawe Ntema as the best guide I have had the opportunity to come across during my travels in Africa. Of course, there are others, like Spencer, Dave Christensen or Fausto Carbone that are as good as him, yet, I have a slight preference for him.

 

 

From what I know, he always worked for Linyanti Explorations and he decided to stay when the new owners acquired the company, until 2011 when he joined Kwando Lebala. He retired last year.

 

Kanawe is native of the area, he is coming from Kachikau, a village located on the Transit Road that skirts the Chobe Forest reserve. Before taking up the career of professional guide, I guess he had already a good empiric knowledge of the bush. Kanawe knew every resident animal living on the concession and the roads they took when being on patrol on their territory, so that when seen on a game drive, he could exactly say where to find them the day after.

 

 

He is also a great tracker. At Selinda the guide was also driving, tracking and holding the spotlight during the night drives. Though he has excellent book learning, he is more an instictive guide than a living encyclopedia. I learned a lot with him.

 

 

 

On the road, Kanawe found very fresh tracks of the pride seen on the next pictures. Following the prints, we arrived to a bushy place where the road was winding. It was impossible to see what could be behind the bend. Kanawe stopped the car and told me : « Mike, they are just after the bend ». I asked him on what his statement was resting. He said « Look carefully just before the bend, you can see dust suspended in the air. It means that they were there only a few moments ago ». We moved and there they were, just round the corner. This is the great Kanawe !

 

 

 

To be continued

[Geoff]

@@Bush dog

 

Great story about Kanawe. Whilst reading your text I was imagining his voice and the quietly spoken way in which he explained to you how he knew.

 

I absolutely love the 3rd shot in that series, the point of view, slight separation of the cats, leading line of the road all framed by the bushes. top notch.

 

Also from a recent email with John he mentioned Mark Van Niekerk was managing Selinda in August 2004 and I remember in 2002 Mark relief managing at Zib for awhile. Do you remember Mark?

[Game Warden]

Have you got any pics of the guides mentioned, or camp staff and management teams?

[Bush dog]

@@Game Warden

 

Since I was, and still am, not interested in photographying people, I don't have pictures of guides and managers.

Yet, I found one of a car with Kanawe behind the wheel from which I took out the part representing him.

 

 

[Bush dog]

@@Geoff

 

Thanks. I also like very much that third picture.

 

I do remember Mark. I met him when I was at main camp in 2004, a very nice young man.

[Bush dog]

@@Geoff

 

I met Kanawe for the last time in October 2011 at Kwando Lebala. As Hari told me previously that he left the Selinda to work for Kwando, I asked to be with him. I was of course very pleased to once more meet him and spend four memorable days in his company. He was with a not very experienced tracker. I suspect Lebala management of giving to him that young man, as an assistant, to train him. Kanawe, of course, did not need a tracker.

[Bush dog]

2001

 

Continued

 

This is one of my favorite moments and sightings in the Selinda and in the african bush, all countries. I stayed with this family during the whole afternoon game drive and close to the end of it, blessed with an exceptional light.

 

 

While the mother was constantly on the qui-vive to prevent any potential danger, little did the two young ones dream of it, they were too busy playing and in the occurrence sometimes perilously. Indeed, at a given time, they discovered a new toy, a cobra and started, probably oblivious of the possible thread that it represented, to worry it. Luckily for them, there was a rivulet close by. The snake decided to swim across it and disappeared in the bushes on the opposite side, leaving amazed the two young cheetahs.

 

 

The second part of this sequence will follow tomorrow.

 

To be continued

 

[Bush dog]

2001

 

Continued

 

Second part of the cheetah’s family sequence.

 

 

 

To be continued

[Bush dog]

2001

 

Continued

 

Some other residents : elephants, zebras, kudus and young girafes.

 

 

 

To be continued

[Bush dog]

2001

 

Continued

 

I saw this lion near Twin Pools. According to Kanawe, it had peculiar habits for a lion, it was solitary like a leopard. Its territory was west of Twin Pools, along the northern border of the concession. It was a tough customer, as its look shows it on the pictures. What I recall quite well was its roaring. I have been already several times close to roaring lions. This one was the champion in terms of loudness and power. It was like if waves of warm air were coming out of its mouth ; very spectacular, staggering and making your blood run cold. Always dixit Kanawe, by solitude, it had improved its natural hunting skills and was able, alone, to pull down a buffalo.

 

The very common, yet superb lilac-breasted roller.

 

 

Some more wild dogs.

 

 

Yellow-billed kite.

 

 

Hippo yawning.

 

 

Wildebeest proudly installed on a « lek ». According to Dr Richard D. Estes in « The Safari Companion », a lek is « A breeding ground or arena where territorial males cluster around a central area, to which estrous females come to mate with a few of the most centrally located and fittest males ».

 

 

 

To be continued

[Bush dog]

2001

 

Continued

 

The following pictures were taken along the road that leads to the limit of the concession, where the Savute channel joins the lagoon. The lions are on the right side of the road, at the edge of the forest, close to where Zarafa is now located.

 

 

To close the chapter 2001, a last lion’s picture.

 

[marg]

@@Bush dog...your photos are beautiful. Especially like the cheetahs!

[Bush dog]

@@marg

 

Thanks a lot for your comments. I am glad you enjoy the photos!

[Marks]

Nice looking kudu at the top of the page - probably my favorite antelope.

Hope there is more to come.

[Bush dog]

2004/May 2005

 

I got together three trips I made in May & November 2004 and in May 2005 because, in my slides library, they are all together and I can’t anymore tell them apart. This time, I was twice at Zib. In 2004, the manager was André Joubert (not at all related to who you know) and in 2005, Sean Trietsch. In 2004, Main Camp was managed by Mark Van Niekerk. Water was back in the spillway. 2004 was still a good year in terms of game sightings. On the other hand, May 2005 was rather disappointing.

 

After all, Amber, the female leopard, agreed to show up. This will be the only time I will have the pleasure to see it. It was close to where the channel connects with the lagoon.

 

 

At Main Camp, the path, that leads to the tents, was a gap in the vegetation. I loved to walk there during siesta time. Indeed, it was a good opportunity to see a lot of things, less spectacular of course, but yet interesting, you don’t see on game drives, like small birds, small snakes, scorpions and other insects, …….. One day, I saw a vine snake, that had eyes bigger than belly, trying to swallow a chameleon that was obviously too large. Eventually, it gave up when almost half of its prey was still outside of its mouth and spit it out. According to the local belief, the chameleon brings bad luck. When they see one, people will be terrified and will run away as quick as they can.The following, seen on the path leading to the tents, was not the one killed by the snake.

 

 

Zebras

 

 

 

To be continued

[Geoff]

@@Bush dog

 

A three year gap between 2001 - 2004. Where did you go instead?

 

i was waiting for images from 2002, some of the best sightings of my safari experience were at Selinda in 2002.

[Bush dog]

@@Geoff

 

In 2002, I made 2 trips in South Africa : Krüger and Timbavati, Sabie Sands, Phinda & Kgalagadi.

In 2003, I made 3 trips : Kwando Lebala & Lagoon

South Luangwa

Self driving mobile from Central Kalahari to Moremi and Madikwe (RSA)

[Game Warden]

@@Bush dog Will look forward to those trip reports Mike...

[Caracal]

Still enjoying following this great report.

 

Your story of the solitary lion with its roaring brought me to attention and had me seeking out my journal and photos. In 1998 we came across a healthy young male that as the light was fading started roaring. Not sure of location but fairly near to lagoon.

We were very close to the lion and the spellbinding sound has stayed with me all these years.

 

Beautiful photos including those of Amber.

 

[Kitsafari]

same here - i was fascinated by the story of the solitary male lion. to be able to take down a buffalo on his own - that is the stuff that legends are made of.

 

I too love the pictures of Amber. sometimes when i see these old pix, and i think that they have probably passed on. but thanks to you @@Bush dog, they are not forgotten but they now have new fans.

[graceland]

A Selinda love story indeed. So enjoyed reading and seeing the pics of years before. Amazing snaps; I love the evening ones, something about the glow.

 

As Game Warden suggests, perhaps more trip reports of days gone by!

 

Thanks for all the time involved in this composition!