Tsavo West, Amboseli, Meru & Samburu — January, 2015

[Tom Kellie]

please withdraw your threat to limit yourself to photos immediately!

 

PLEASE PLEASE, continue with the story; I like as well as others the story line along with your photos. Slipping in personal notes and observations adds to the report; it personalizes it and connects you to the reader. A series of just photos ~could be a field guide as far as I am concerned. I like to know where you are headed, what you are feeling, and why you chose to select a particular snap! If we did not know where you where, how could we ever get there???

 

A month on Safaritalk? I feel you've been here all along; your report is fitting right in; do not fret about rules. There are none. Except be nice. No bullying and advise everyone of the upcoming safari plans as you go move further along

 

A hug is a hug but words make it special.

 

~ @graceland:

 

Back to usual. Comments will continue.

I admit that @@Safaridude's recently begun Tanzania trip report is inspirational.

His laconic labelling of a fine kopje photo gets the job done in a few well-chosen words.

It's so different from my work in the university, where 3rd-person, passive voice impersonal writing is the name of the game.

Here in Safaritalk, both the context and my emotional feelings are thrown into the mix.

I set out to be as authentic as possible...authentic in imagery and authentic in commentary.

That may sometimes be too much. Hence I'm seeking some sort of balance — the elusive equilibrium point.

There are more photos yet to come, and they're not all birds.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Equus quagga in Tsavo West

~ Stark. Direct. No illusions. When a zebra gazes, the universe is reduced back to binary. 1, 0, 1, 0, 1, 0. Everything in black and white, as one might expect.

Hayburner

In Prof. Kingdon's Pocket Guide to African Mammals, he emphasizes that zebras are horses. No where more so than in this image, savannah ‘hay’ in mouth

Alopochen aegyptiacus in Tsavo West

Most Alopochen aegyptiacus, Egyptian Geese, I see are either resting or busily foraging in grass with others of their species. Not so this bird who was by a waterhole where the zebra had been drinking water — a Quagga quaffing.

Mycteria ibis

When Mycteria ibis, Yellow-billed Stork is present, my lens goes up, as this species is especially photogenic. The rich intensity of the colors contrasts with the moist soil around the waterhole.

Hamerkop Beside a Waterhole

Ever since first photographing a Hamerkop, they've been a favorite subject. Could that possibly be linked to their plumage color, which reminds me of certain rich chocolate desserts in Venice, Italy?

Impala Nursery Herd

The concept of a ‘nursery herd’ amused me when I first learned it long ago. It brought to mind certain classes of younger students who huddled together, cribbing from one another, hoping against hope that I wouldn't spring yet another foul ‘pop quiz’.

[Peter Connan]

please withdraw your threat to limit yourself to photos immediately!

 

PLEASE PLEASE, continue with the story; I like as well as others the story line along with your photos. Slipping in personal notes and observations adds to the report; it personalizes it and connects you to the reader. A series of just photos ~could be a field guide as far as I am concerned. I like to know where you are headed, what you are feeling, and why you chose to select a particular snap! If we did not know where you where, how could we ever get there???

 

A month on Safaritalk? I feel you've been here all along; your report is fitting right in; do not fret about rules. There are none. Except be nice. No bullying and advise everyone of the upcoming safari plans as you go move further along

 

A hug is a hug but words make it special.

@@Tom Kellie, I think you already have the balance right, and those who have commented on your commentary (well me anyway) were basically saying "thanks for showing us how it should be done".

 

I really like your balance. Not all lions and elephant (they are also nice), but landscaps, birds, plants, flowers and all the other delightful details.

 

In fact I think it's time I dust off my macro kit!

 

I love the Black-shouldered Kite. It's still one of my goals to catch one "in the hover".

 

Thanks again!

[Tom Kellie]

@@Tom Kellie, I think you already have the balance right, and those who have commented on your commentary (well me anyway) were basically saying "thanks for showing us how it should be done".

 

 

I really like your balance. Not all lions and elephant (they are also nice), but landscaps, birds, plants, flowers and all the other delightful details.

 

In fact I think it's time I dust off my macro kit!

 

I love the Black-shouldered Kite. It's still one of my goals to catch one "in the hover".

 

Thanks again!

 

 

~ @@Peter Connan:

 

After today, I'm a bit clearer on what's effective.

Finding an equilibrium point which is comfortable for most is what I'd like.

BTW: There will be lions and elephants...later.

I've never seen a hovering Black-shouldered Kite, aside from in photos.

Macro photography opens up a safari on a different scale. Beetles, ants, bees, dragonflies and butterflies deserve their time in the limelight.

Tom K.

[Peter Connan]

Oh, PS. did you know that Klipspriger is an Afrikaans name which translates to "rockjumper".

 

This is quite descriptive (as is a lot of Afrikaans words). I have yet to see one anywhere but on rocky hills, a habitat they are exceptionally well adapted to.

[Tom Kellie]

Pavonia urens in Tsavo West

~ For me safaris have been a welcome break from workaday routine, when the omnipresent yet overlooked aspects of life take center stage. Flowers are beautiful in their own right, brightening up safaris whenever and wherever they're spotted. The Pavonia urens blooms throughout Tsavo West were a welcome dash of magenta hue amidst shades of green, tan and grey.

Feathered Dancer

What's she doing? Has this female Circus aeruginosus, Eurasian Marsh Harrier, taken up go-go dancing? Its vigorous wing shaking lasted for half a minute.

Female Circus aeruginosus

Resolute in stance, confident in gaze. A most admirable raptor at 1:24 pm on an overcast afternoon.

[Tom Kellie]

Below is a series of images taken within a brief span.

A young elephant was browsing near the track, so

we stopped. It walked directly toward us and made

a series of gestures, all of which seemed friendly.

It was a rare case in my limited safari experience

of an animal coming to me, in essence posing for

the lens. In tonight's thunderstorm, a happy memory.

Hide-and-Seek

Detected

Closest Possible Camera Range

Loxodonta africana at Close Range

Facing an African Elephant

Lifted Trunk

Making a Joyful Noise

Elephant Gesture

[Tom Kellie]

Earlier in the game drive Anthony had quietly pointed out

a single Tragelaphus imberbis, Lesser Kudu, crossing about

ten meters in front of us, a photo which I clumsily missed.

He teases me for having ‘kudu eyes’ as it's the one animal

I've often spotted. Once again Tragelaphus imberbis graced

a safari with their elegant presence. I spotted these two

females, asking Anthony to back up, which he did with

finesse, making possible these portraits. Lesser Kudu in

Tsavo West National Park — the series below.

Lesser Kudu Panorama

Notice Anything?

Tragelaphus imberbis

Ultra-Cautious Tragelaphus imberbis

[Tom Kellie]

Browsing an Acacia

~ And then the morning game drive was over. It had been a productive time of bird photography plus assorted Tsavo West moments. This final game drive image was of the same elderly male giraffe we'd seen the previous evening, not far from Rhino Valley Lodge.

Potamonautes sp.

After stepping out of the safari van, I headed towards the lobby. After a few steps I stopped, amazed to see a crab scuttling along the concrete. The duty manager told me that she often saw many such crabs wandering through the lobby, to and from a small decorative pool. Identifying this species as Potamonautes sp. required more time than usual, as there's limited available relevant literature. This is my first and only safari crab!

Close-up of Cercopis sp.

It doesn't take long for the staff at a lodge to figure out that I'm one of ‘those guests’, who tend to like every little critter. Onesimus who took care of us in the otherwise empty dining room brought over this vibrant Cercopis sp., asking where I'd like him to place it for a portrait. I told him that the shredded cabbage would do just fine.

Waterbuck and Elephants at a Waterhole

After lunch I returned to my hillside room. Looking below, waterbuck and elephants were at the primary waterhole.

Hemidactylus mabouia Detail

On the wide porch railing a visitor. Hemidactylus mabouia, Tropical House Gecko, was crawling along. The eye pattern is worthy of a batik or tapa cloth design. I like the red accents on its skin. In Hawaii, the presence of geckos in a home is regarded as bringing good luck. On safari I need no luck, as I'm already far more blessed than I deserve.

[Tom Kellie]

Sitting on the covered terrace of Room #5 at Rhino Valley

Lodge, I noticed an influx of elephants at the waterhole.

Tsavo West's elephant population was robust, so it wasn't

surprising that they were there for a mid-afternoon drink.

The series below shows one of several family groups

moving in unison from the waterhole to the concrete

water tank directly below my room. Location rules!

Loxodonta africana Leaving a Waterhole

Moving as a Family

Social Unit in Transit

Care of the Young Comes First

Phalanx

Loxodonta africana Battalion

Caution – Elephant Crossing

Passing Pachyderms

[Tom Kellie]

Centropus superciliosus at Tsavo West

~ The afternoon game drive was planned as a visit to the Tsavo West enclosed Rhino Sanctuary. Light rain was falling, which cooled the air. This Centropus superciliosus, White-browed Coucal, perched on a snag, preening while we paused for a few photographs.

Preening Rain-soaked Plumage

The bird's rain-soaked wing pinions wouldn't reliably supply the needed lift for flight, therefore it stretched out its wings to dry. With the rainfall increasing, the coucal must have waited there for a long spell. soaked to the skin despite sporting such colorful feathers.

Edited April 11, 2015 by Tom Kellie

[Tom Kellie]

The visit to the Tsavo West Rhino Sanctuary was a washout.

Literally. After we entered the fenced and guarded area, the

heavens opened up, releasing sheets of rain. Hence no rhinos,

no birds, no animals, no nothing. Did I care? Not a bit, although

Anthony felt frustrated that my Chinese student had yet to see

a rhino. My feeling was and is that when plans don't pan out,

it's positive, as the likelihood of future happiness has thereby

increased. Karmic balancing? Or deferred delight? Either/Or.

Rhino Sanctuary Baobab Laden with Fruit

Tsavo West Rhino Sanctuary Baobabs

Rhino Sanctuary Baobab Panorama

Black Rhino, the VIP

Tsavo West Rhino Sanctuary After Rain

[Tom Kellie]

Circaetus cinereus Perched

~ Good old reliable Delonix elata, White Poinciana, the perch of choice of many avian species, including Circaetus cinereus, Brown Snake-Eagle. Even at a distance, its yellow eyes and pale legs visible.

Circaetus cinereus with Downturned Wings

No sooner did I take a few shots than Circaetus cinereus lifted off the bare branch, the white underside of its wings revealed in flight.

Francolinus leucoscepus in the Afternoon

What's enjoyable to photograph in the morning remains so in the late afternoon. The afternoon light intensified the color on its neck, almost attaining a saffron hue.

Perilous Habitat

Looking at the overhanging cliffs, with trees growing around them, I wondered what organisms call such a perilous habitat home? Assorted specialist birds, insects and the more well-equipped reptiles. I'd love to be up there for intensive inspection, looking under the rock overhangs. Bats, anyone?

Invitation to Exploration

That type of forested cliff is an invitation to exploration. Life abhors a vacuum, thus there must be a variety of fascinating species making their home on the cliff face and in the trees thereon.

The Track Beneath the Cliffs

We parked on that section of the track for about fifteen minutes, essentially birdwatching. Life on safari is pure bliss. All fun, all the time. Please don't tell my students that I said that!

Eurocephalus rueppelli

Near our position was a large bush within which perched a small group of Eurocephalus rueppeli, Northern White-crowned Shrike.

[Tom Kellie]

Vibrant Green Ventral Plumage

~ Anthony and I had spent part of one morning in Samburu National Reserve observing a lone Poicephalus rufiventris, African Orange-bellied Parrot. It's occasional loud cries and amusing antics held our interest despite being far below it. In Tsavo West we once again encountered that attention-getting parrot species.

Poicephalus rufiventris in Tsavo West

Of the four or five in an acacia, this Poicephalus rufiventris was nearest to us. It clambered from branch to branch, avoiding thorns, reaching out with its claws to grasp another branch, all the while watching us.

Poicephalus rufiventris Scrutinizes the Camera Lens

When the African Orange-bellied Parrot leaned forward from its tentative perch to peer at us, I laughed. Who was observing who, I wondered? This species is a particular favorite of mine.

[Tom Kellie]

View Down to the Rhino Sanctuary Perimeter Fence

~ We drove up the steepest incline I've ever yet been on in Kenya. Anthony's driving skills were on full display. After many minutes we paused to look back at where we'd been, as shown here.

Surface Fractal Patterns

This was the scene beside our upland ridge rest point. What was the age of the rocks? What ancient geological event lifted them up to such a height? How long ago did they fracture, and why?

Fractured Yet Unbroken

The frustrated architect and geophysicist in me wistfully looks over a formation like this, wishing that it were possible to view its history all the way back to its original placement in that location. The angels whisper that it's wiser to be content with viewing it now than wondering about its birth.

Centropus superciliosus on a Branch

Hearing a bird cry, I turned to see this Centropus superciliosus, White-browed Coucal, on a branch. The earth tones of its tail feathers reminds me of native American handicrafts.

[Tom Kellie]

Pelomedusa subrufa

The light was low on the crest of the rocky ridge we'd attained.

My thought was that major sightings for the day were surely

over. After driving about thirty seconds after photographing

the White-browed Coucal, Anthony said: “There's a turtle

crossing the road”. Without any pause I automatically lifted

the camera and lens to photograph a small reptile swiftly

crossing the quartz-gravelled track. It had crossed and

vanished in less than fifteen seconds. These images of

Pelomedusa subrufa, Helmeted Terrapin, are only

possible due to Anthony's outstanding sighting.

Pelomedusa subrufa

Making a Fast Getaway

Pelomedusa subrufa In Transit

[Marks]

Wow, this report has really blossomed into something special. Your writing style is sometimes frank and sometimes poetic, and I like that a lot. I've laughed aloud a few times reading this (the "no-nonsense roller," for example). Also liked the baobabs in bloom - beautiful. I feel badly about only catching up now and providing only a brief response, but rest assured that I am enjoying this as much as everyone else certainly seems to be.

 

Your approach to travel (allowing yourself some surprises) is really interesting, and I could stand to learn something from it, as I tend to micromanage my plans.

[Tom Kellie]

Circus pygargus

Crazy! This image of Circus pygargus, Montagu's Harrier, was made at 6:42 pm in early twilight within a valley, at ISO 12,800. That's scarcely credible, given the complexity of photographing in such dim light conditions.

Circus pygargus Flying Away from its Perch

This image of Circus pygargus flying away from its perch was the final animal photographed during the game drive. What a productive day it had been, leaving me with an abiding respect for Tsavo West's wildlife.

[Tom Kellie]

Wow, this report has really blossomed into something special. Your writing style is sometimes frank and sometimes poetic, and I like that a lot. I've laughed aloud a few times reading this (the "no-nonsense roller," for example). Also liked the baobabs in bloom - beautiful. I feel badly about only catching up now and providing only a brief response, but rest assured that I am enjoying this as much as everyone else certainly seems to be.

 

Your approach to travel (allowing yourself some surprises) is really interesting, and I could stand to learn something from it, as I tend to micromanage my plans.

 

~ @@Marks:

 

That's such a generous compliment, especially given that you're a professional writer.

It's been a long, quiet evening, aside from a prolonged thunderstorm here in Beijing.

Not much communication with anyone, so your warm encouragement is fresh dew on my parched inspiration.

For me, allowing the unknown be a full partner in my travels preserves my sense of wonder.

Neither safaris nor Kenya seem ‘old hat’ to me.

I have no illusion about my inability to control life, thus instead prepare to accept and enjoy the unexpected.

Your kind words mean so much to me tonight, @@Marks.

Many, many thanks!

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Tsavo West Sunrays at Day's End

~ Thus ended the second day of the safari, with sunrays streaming over the Ngulia Mountains, our white Toyota safari van bouncing along. The thought of dinner was pleasing, even to a low volume eater like me.

Elephants in the Waterhole at Night

When I returned to my room to leave the camera gear before going to dinner, I heard elephants below. This image was made at 6:57 pm, at an ISO 25,600 setting. Such low-light photography in near darkness has much lunacy about it, but I wanted to capture what elephants looked like when in the waterhole in darkness.

Arriving for an Evening Drink

Grainy as the image is, this evening photograph of an elephant family marching towards the waterhole reflects what continued through the evening until well past midnight. Family after family of elephants arrived, waited, then indulged in the waterhole's pleasures. If one felt annoyed by elephant trumpeting, Rhino Valley Lodge would not be the best lodging. As it happens, I enjoy wildlife sounds, which is much of why I fly from Beijing to Nairobi, to be able to hear squeals, gruntings, screeches, drawn-out calls, chortles and assorting boomings.

[Peter Connan]

@@Tom Kellie, those parrots! Wow!

 

And your camera and post processing really does well at high ISO. ISO is one of the biggest advantages of modern digital photography over film in my opinion, not only the heights it can go to, but also the fact that it can be altered at will from one shot to the next, and even controlled automatically by the camera.

 

In the late 80's, my dad owned a 500mm lens for a while, but he never really got any good images with it because shooting at only 200ISO or so and at f8 (I think the lens was f7.1 maximum), he had to mount it on two tripods!

Edited April 11, 2015 by Peter Connan

[Tom Kellie]

Sausage Tree Perch

The next morning began before 7 am with this image of Ardea cinerea, Grey Heron, perched atop the sausage tree which grew beside Rhino Valley's primary waterhole. We were checking out to leave Tsavo West. To start the day with a bird photo was apropos, given our experience.

Good Morning, Roller!

As it was pretty well agreed that the signature species of our visit to Tsavo West was Coracias garrulus, European Roller, it was a welcome portent to find one perched immediately below my hillside cottage.

Rhino Valley in Tsavo West National Park

Our leave-taking from Tsavo West certainly fit Shakespeare's comment that ‘parting is such sweet sorrow’. This image was made before checking out of the lodge, to remind me of the rich beauty of Rhino Valley.

Edited April 11, 2015 by Tom Kellie

[graceland]

I 'm skipping back to the evening before, @@Tom Kellie; I for one love the ellies even in the evening darkness. I love watching them as a family quietly walking and then with glee running to the water hole.

 

I never tire of watching the young ones' antics; they are so blissfully unaware of what misfortune a human could befall a member of their herd, given so many at the Sheldrick trust in Nairobi. So if given the opportunity to watch and observe rather than drive off, I'd stay with the elies. I love the matriach standing guard over her clan; her trumpets, her shaking of the head; even a mock charge...I respect her for that; it is her job to watch and protect.

 

My most memorable elephant moments were in Zimbabwe where we could get so close and remain anonymous. We truly were fortunate guests in their world.

[Tom Kellie]

@@Tom Kellie, those parrots! Wow!

 

And your camera and post processing really does well at high ISO. ISO is one of the biggest advantages of modern digital photography over film in my opinion, not only the heights it can go to, but also the fact that it can be altered at will from one shot to the next, and even controlled automatically by the camera.

 

In the late 80's, my dad owned a 500mm lens for a while, but he never really got any good images with it because shooting at only 200ISO or so and at f8 (I think the lens was f7.1 maximum), he had to mount it on two tripods!

 

~ @@Peter Connan:

 

Thank you for telling me about your dad's photography.

A 500mm lens at that time must have yielded extraordinary images.

It sounds as though you come by your photographic skills naturally, a family specialty.

That's really nice.

I happen to like ISO 100 for everything possible, so it's been a struggle to wean me off of it to the higher ISOs.

Another plus in my current camera gear is that the 400mm super-telephoto lens is f/2.8. Having a fast lens at that length facilitates usable shots in fairly low light conditions.

I keep wondering if the 400mm lens might be too large, with too close of images in Sabi Sands. Perhaps I'd best write the rangers at Leopard Hills to inquire which focal length they feel works best, given the nature of their game drives.

I'm so glad that you liked the African Orange-bellied Parrots. They're definitely a highlight, anytime I see them.

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

I 'm skipping back to the evening before, @@Tom Kellie; I for one love the ellies even in the evening darkness. I love watching them as a family quietly walking and then with glee running to the water hole.

 

I never tire of watching the young ones' antics; they are so blissfully unaware of what misfortune a human could befall a member of their herd, given so many at the Sheldrick trust in Nairobi. So if given the opportunity to watch and observe rather than drive off, I'd stay with the elies. I love the matriach standing guard over her clan; her trumpets, her shaking of the head; even a mock charge...I respect her for that; it is her job to watch and protect.

 

My most memorable elephant moments were in Zimbabwe where we could get so close and remain anonymous. We truly were fortunate guests in their world.

 

~ @graceland:

 

Oddly enough, the most remarkable elephant encounter I ever experienced was on the first safari, in Masai Mara in 2011.

The driver had maneuvered us up onto an impossible little spit of land above a twisted mini-waterhole.

Several elephants and their young were there. A mother and her infant started browsing about 1.5 meters from us. I was startled, as was the driver. She new that her baby was safe, thus carried on with enviable nonchalance.

When one is an elephant mother, it takes a lot more than a rusting Toyota van to rattle you.

I'm so glad that you had a precious elephant experience in Zimbabwe!

Tom K.