Following the Herds - Mkomazi, Tarangire, Serengeti and Manyara Ranch Conservancy - February 2015

[Safaridude]

February 17

 

7:13am – The first line of wildebeests (mostly bulls) is coming from the Makao/Maswa woodland to the Ndutu area after the rains. Bulls normally lead. We are heading toward Makao/Maswa to hopefully catch some big herds coming onto the plains and possibly some calving.

 

 

 

 

8:06am – White storks, Palearctic migrants.

 

 

 

8:32am – Another African wild cat.

 

 

 

8:43am – Near the border of Maswa, we finally encounter decent wildebeest herds. A newborn, with its umbilical cord still attached, suckles.

 

 

 

8:47am – But this guy doesn’t give a hoot about it.

 

 

 

8:58am – Many pairings of mothers and calves.

 

 

 

9:27am – A tawny eagle on the ground.

 

 

 

11:06am – A herd waters at a depression that has collected water. Calves often get stuck (but not this one) in these depressions.

 

 

 

3:24pm – One of the founders of the Ndutu Lodge was a trophy hunter, and the dining room of the lodge is adorned with his mementos. All the trophies are of animals found in Tanzania – except for one…

 

 

 

4:17pm –The afternoon is spent south of Ndutu. A pale-morph tawny eagle scavenges.

 

 

 

5:32pm – A huge bull elephant emerges from the woodland.

 

 

 

 

 

5:41pm – A relatively relaxed group of eland with a nice bull in the middle.

 

 

 

[Safaridude]

February 18

 

6:55am - Overlooking Lake Ndutu pre-dawn.

 

 

 

 

7:57 – Tommies are on the lookout for a couple of lions nearby.

 

 

 

8:04am – A lioness belonging to the Marsh Pride.

 

 

 

 

 

8:46am – A cheetah is taking a brazen approach to hunting during this birthing season. He simply walks toward herds of Thomson’s and Grant’s gazelles, hoping that helpless, immobile fawns will be revealed.

 

 

 

 

8:51am – A half-hearted jog toward a gazelle herd.

 

 

 

8:57am – A group of Tommies on alert. They keep their sights on the cheetah and even move in to take a closer look.

 

 

 

9:07am – The cheetah gives us a glance as he brazenly approaches yet another gazelle herd.

 

 

 

10:11am – A half-eaten carcass of a zebra foal. In this season of plenty, sated predators often abandon their meals.

 

 

 

10:42am – A different cheetah is simply relaxing when a lost wildebeest calf runs toward it (perhaps trying to find anything animate to attach to). It turns out to be an easy bonus meal for the cheetah. This time, 30 vehicles (that’s actual count, not a guess) surround the cheetah. Again, the circle made by the vehicles is too constrictive, and the cheetah appears agitated. In disbelief, we leave the scene. (Note: the close-up photos of the cheetah finishing its kill are closely cropped to take parts of another vehicle out of the photos. Our vehicle was never too close to the cheetah.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

11:03am – Another cheetah, this one a big male who, judging by the belly, has just fed this morning, struts his stuff across the plain.

 

 

 

11:26am – A lost wildebeest calf runs toward our vehicle. We don’t want to risk the calf imprinting on us. We split the scene quickly.

 

 

 

We now leave the Ndutu area for Moru Kopjes – via Naabi Hill. We did not see massive herds of wildebeests or wildebeest calving one expects to see in the Ndutu area at this time of year, but we did get some substantial herds and witnessed two cheetah kills. You can’t always get what you want. But if you try sometimes, well you just might find, you get what you need.

[Safaridude]

February 18 (Continued)

 

3:45pm – On the way to Naabi Hill, a jackal chases and successfully kills a Tommie fawn.

 

 

 

3:58pm – Zebras gathered on the open grassland near Naabi Hill.

 

 

 

5:08pm – Dust devils in front of an approaching storm.

 

 

 

5:15pm – Two blond-maned males in repose.

 

 

 

5:23pm – A biblical storm brewing.

 

 

 

5:26pm – Coke’s hartebeests bowing to the coming storm.

 

 

 

5:37pm – The heart of the storm skirts us. Just a shower on the kopjes.

 

 

 

5:47pm – Zebras again.

 

 

 

6:14pm – A rainbow graces the plain at the edge of Moru Kopjes.

 

 

 

6:19pm – Craig and Kennedy.

 

 

 

6:48pm – A surprise awaits us at Moru Kopjes. So dry is the Serengeti, wildebeest herds had gathered in the Western Corridor (typically, the herds reach the Western Corridor in June). They are seen returning to Moru Kopjes following the showers of the past few days. During our next three nights at Dunia Camp, hundreds of thousands of them would pass through camp at night, serenading us with their incessant grunting.

 

 

 

 

[Tom Kellie]

~ @Safaridude:

 

What do I like?

Everything!

What's not to like?

Truly a lovely composition.

Thank you.

Tom K.

[Safaridude]

It has been a truly unusual migration year.

 

It rained hard in southern Serengeti in early January, turning everything green on schedule. The wildebeest calving began a bit earlier than usual in mid-January. Then the rains completely stopped. By the time we got to Ndutu to drive to Nduara Loliondo, it was bone dry. On Feb 14 and 15, a big storm hit Loliondo, Gol Mountains and parts of Ndutu. For the next few days, spotty showers were around Ndutu. The herds had scattered into the Makao/Maswa woodland and, unbeknownst to many at the time, into the Western Corridor (normally the herds go to the Western Corridor in June). The herds from Makao/Maswa made their way to Ndutu on and around February 17. Later during our stay at Dunia Camp in Moru Kopjes, massive herds passed by us while traveling from the Western Corridor to Naabi and then presumably further out into the short-grass plains.

 

Then, it stopped raining once again! By mid-March, the herds were in the Western Corridor again. In late March, some had crossed into Kenya!!! From the last days of March on to now, it has been raining non-stop everywhere, and the herds are back in Moru and Naabi. It will be interesting to see if they go back to Ndutu, Gol Mountains and southern Loliondo, where the grass is sweetest for them.

[graceland]

@@Safaridude,

 

Love the sunset coming up at Lake Ndutu and the rainbow at the Kopjes.

 

Oh, and everything in between!

 

I've always wanted to go just bacause of the Kopjes.....Haven't made it yet.

 

Such a shame to see 30 vehicles - I'd surely leave. We were so fortunate in the Mara that did not occur. Maybe ten if that.

 

 

Jumpin Jack Flash, such a Blast. Rains Everywhere!

 

Looking forward to more!

Edited April 14, 2015 by graceland

[ice]

@@Safaridude

 

to the best of my knowledge, Mara North applies a "no more than five cars per righting" rule

[Zim Girl]

Simply stunning landscape pictures,

[twaffle]

I love the Lake Ndutu shots, simply beautiful. And what's with the wild cat sightings … I've never seen one, let alone two!

[Kitsafari]

the lakendutu predawn photos are awesome. i spent a few minutes in between work just staring at them, and i could feel the stress just draining from me. thank you for sharing with us.

 

30 vehicles at the sighting! poor cheetah. don't the tanzanian park authorities try to disperse the crowds to reduce stress on the animals? they did that in the crater when I was there. but perhaps the rangers are from a different division.

[Safaridude]

@@Kitsafari

 

30 vehicles around the sighting was probably unavoidable. I mean, there were 30 vehicles (by the way, by far the largest number at a sighting… so it wasn't this bad all the time), so what else is going to happen? It's just that the vehicles should not make a circle completely around a sighting like that. And the shouting! (by both vehicle drivers and clients)

 

Still in southern Serengeti, I feel like you can always get away from the crowd and get your own sightings. It's so vast out there. Of course you can do that in the Mara too, but southern Serengeti feels more expansive and freer to have your own private space.

[Bush dog]

Impressive series of excellent pictures and in particular the Lake Ndutu pre-dawn!

[Safaridude]

@@Bush dog

 

We are all suckers for dawn/dusk sunrise/sunset photos!

[Swahealy 43]

It has been a truly unusual migration year.

 

It rained hard in southern Serengeti in early January, turning everything green on schedule. The wildebeest calving began a bit earlier than usual in mid-January. Then the rains completely stopped. By the time we got to Ndutu to drive to Nduara Loliondo, it was bone dry. On Feb 14 and 15, a big storm hit Loliondo, Gol Mountains and parts of Ndutu. For the next few days, spotty showers were around Ndutu. The herds had scattered into the Makao/Maswa woodland and, unbeknownst to many at the time, into the Western Corridor (normally the herds go to the Western Corridor in June). The herds from Makao/Maswa made their way to Ndutu on and around February 17. Later during our stay at Dunia Camp in Moru Kopjes, massive herds passed by us while traveling from the Western Corridor to Naabi and then presumably further out into the short-grass plains.

 

Then, it stopped raining once again! By mid-March, the herds were in the Western Corridor again. In late March, some had crossed into Kenya!!! From the last days of March on to now, it has been raining non-stop everywhere, and the herds are back in Moru and Naabi. It will be interesting to see if they go back to Ndutu, Gol Mountains and southern Loliondo, where the grass is sweetest for them.

Indeed it has been a very unusual migration year! Just read a post today by Ndutu lodge on herdtracker that massive numbers are now there on the triangle!!! Still moving from Naabi hills to the short grass plains. It is still raining there....Loved your dawn shots of Lake Ndutu (from the Northern shore line looking back at the lodge on the treeline above?) and the Moru Kopjes rainbow...magnificent! The female lion of the Marsh pride maybe Notch. Has that distinctive notch in her ear so thus named! Getting on a bit as testament to the missing upper canine and the worn bottom one! Where did you see the two blond males? Was it between Naabi and Ndutu? Two blond males have taken over the marsh pride from the Resident males Selous and Katavi who have been forced off to Lake Masek pride. Could be the two fella's you photographed who took over...three prides around Ndutu, the Marsh pride, by the big marsh, the Lake Masek pride and the thin pride(made famous by Owen Newman in his great migration doc for the BBC) normally in Long gully and up by the triangle. They are all really related and the said Selous and Katavi spent time with each as did previous males when in charge. Just a bit of a fun heads up. there is also a group of FIVE males seen at the marsh over the last couple of months. They are not old enough yet it seems to take over. only being about 2 to 3 years old, but five males against just two mature males is going to be interesting to say the least if they stick around the marsh! And Selous and Katavi, the previous dominant males may get a say as well!! Interesting but disruptive times for the Lions at Ndutu!!

The 30 trucks around the cheetah is disturbing. As you have stated that can be managed if in a semicircle so the cat is not surounded. Depends if drivers follow etiquette and common sense. But if so called "guides" are just looking for sightin tips then all bets are off. I would just drive off and not bother with the melee. Much more to be seen and it is the reason I only go in low season. Went to Ndutu in March once and though it was spectacular with wildlife there was just too many semi permanent camps and too busy for me!! Keep up the great trip report and hope there is maybe more to come?

[Bush dog]

@@Bush dog

 

We are all suckers for dawn/dusk sunrise/sunset photos!

Honestly, not really. I never made a lot of pictures on those subjects, just a few sunrises and dawns, when they are blazing, following a stormy day. In fact, I do not like sunsets, I prefer sunrises. Perhaps, because I consider them, in my subconscious, as symbols of birth, life or hope ?

[Safaridude]

@Sweahealy43

 

Thanks for the interesting information on the lion dynamics. The two blond males were indeed spotted between Ndutu and Naabi (closer to Naabi).

 

Bad behavior around sightings is just as much the fault of the tourists, in my opinion. Tourists explicitly or implicitly put pressure on the guides. We tourists are bombarded with incredible footages on TV these days, and we all think we should be able to duplicate such experiences in one safari.

[Safaridude]

February 19

 

6:51am – Acacia woodland, a good habitat for giraffe, abuts the main Moru Kopjes area.

 

 

 

 

 

6:59am – Craig on the lookout.

 

 

 

7:06am – A few lionesses and cubs frolic near the road.

 

 

 

8:00am – Substantial herds (mostly bulls, as they tend to lead movements) are gathered east of Dunia Camp. They had arrived from the Western Corridor. The Moru Kopjes area is most likely a “staging area” before they move on to Naabi Hill and the short-grass plains beyond.

 

 

 

 

8:07am – The kopjes at Moru Kopjes are excellent places to find predators. Lo and behold, at one of the first kopjes we circle, a pair of magnificent male lions is discovered.

 

 

 

 

 

 

8:29am – One of the males trudges off to the next kopje to join two females.

 

 

 

 

 

9:11am – Later in the morning, we find the rest of the pride: 26 in this lot, including 20 cubs (!!!). I have never seen anything close to this number of cubs.

 

Edited April 15, 2015 by Safaridude

[Safaridude]

February 19 (Continued)

 

11:16am – A line of wildebeests can be seen coming from the hills to the west, spilling out onto the plains of Moru Kopjes. We finally get a sense of the immense herds. The camera cannot adequately capture the awesome number of animals completely possessing the moment.

 

 

 

 

 

1:05pm – Professor Craig Doria?

 

 

 

5:50pm – Ostrich on the plain northeast of Moru.

 

 

 

6:03pm – Bearded old men passing through.

 

 

 

6:37pm – New arrivals just in front of Dunia Camp.

 

 

 

 

9:23pm – Dunia Camp. The horizon is lit up by a series of heat lightning.

 

 

 

 

[Africalover]

@@Safaridude - you make me wanna be a better photographer, absolutely outstanding photos. Your bokeh is wonderful. I am planning a bushcamping trip next year - Ndutu, Serengeti - mid march,to avoid the most crowds. I might ask you some questions later regarding the area - if its ok.

Cheers.

[Safaridude]

@@Africalover

 

Thank you and of course. Will send you a PM.

[mvecht]

@@Safaridude

 

Outstanding pictures. I Can barely wait until my own trip in December to Tarangire, Ndutu, Serengeti and Ngorongoro though I am somewhat apprehensive of the crowds that I may encounter!

[Bush dog]

Your work is tremendously inspiring, at least as far as I am concerned, not only in terms of photography and text quality, but also of how to perfectly illustrate a trip report. Indeed, your pictures' range goes from the landscape, captured with a wide angle, to close-up portraits. This, of course, allows people, who are interested in the topics you treat, to have a better and broader understanding, and thus better help them choose their future destination. Beau travail !!!!!

[Bush dog]

@@Safaridude

 

Outstanding pictures. I Can barely wait until my own trip in December to Tarangire, Ndutu, Serengeti and Ngorongoro though I am somewhat apprehensive of the crowds that I may encounter!

If you want to avoid crowds, go to Ndutu and Serengeti (south of Seronera) in the second part of May. Perhaps a bit more risky, but the guarantee, particularly in Ndutu, to be alone all day, and much more cheaper.

 

http://safaritalk.net/topic/13097-serengeti-and-ndutu-in-may/

[Swahealy 43]

 

@@Safaridude

 

Outstanding pictures. I Can barely wait until my own trip in December to Tarangire, Ndutu, Serengeti and Ngorongoro though I am somewhat apprehensive of the crowds that I may encounter!

If you want to avoid crowds, go to Ndutu and Serengeti (south of Seronera) in the second part of May. Perhaps a bit more risky, but the guarantee, particularly in Ndutu, to be alone all day, and much more cheaper.

 

http://safaritalk.net/topic/13097-serengeti-and-ndutu-in-may/

 

Just caught up with that link of Ndutu in May!! Fantastic pics!!! And a great report!!! I will be going to Ndutu on the 27th May. I go every year in low season, usually in November in the dry season. Cannot wait to be there in May when it is green.....it is indeed quieter in the low seasons and of course you can offroad. Spent many happy hours beside big cats and all sorts of game as the only truck. Feet up having tea and picniccing whilst surounded by wildlife...contentment does not explain it sufficiently!!!

[Marks]

The predawn lake looks amazing. I'm also struck by the difference in the sky over the plains pre- and during the storm. Extremely dramatic contrast.

 

I'm also really interested in Ndutu. I was once dissuaded from it by a TA because I could only travel in August. Would it really have been incredibly empty, migration notwithstanding?