Stripes of Wild India

[Kitsafari]

Wow wow WOW indeed!

 

your pictures of Maya once again proves what I've always felt - that the tigers are the most beautiful cats of them all. (cheetahs coming a close second).

 

sloth bear! and such gorgeous pictures of Dholes and pups despite the poor lighting - @@Galago what great luck to have them facing you! great pics too.

 

so, if and whenever I find myself in India, I shall simply order everything that Atravelynn @@michael-ibk and Andrew had please.

[elefromoz]

@@michael-ibk, just awesome. How hot was Tadoba, this would have been early to mid-April, did you miss the "real" heat of the day with safari times or did you find it unbearably hot out there?

 

Maybe I missed something, why is Lynn wearing white, silk gloves?

 

The Tigress "lost her cubs to Dhole", is this unusual, could she not hold her own against them or would she have been absent?

 

Lovely to see the pups, always so special to see the babies.

Thanks

[graceland]

@@michael-ibk thanks for the info on Dhole and your thoughts on the tigers' perceptions of humans/vehicles. It is interesting because I noticed in the Mara in Kenya, everyone stood up in their vehicles whereas in Botswana it was a big no no - and we were seeing the same types of animals, generally! I wondered was it that the Mara animals were that much more habituated due to bigger crowds? But maybe it's all theory about the not standing up, and no truth to it. I do recall once when at a wild dog sighting in Bots, I shifted my position a bit and, in doing so, slightly stood up or straightened my knees a bit anyway, and one or more of the dogs noticed and stood up a bit from resting.

 

The tigress walking through the prey animals reminded me of a sighting in the Mara but with a cheetah - there was so much prey around but no attempt to go after it, and the prey animals just all stood there watching!

 

Looking forward to more, but Michael is off to Africa so perhaps we shall have a bit of a wait!

 

 

It's odd @@SafariChick, when we were in the Mara the first time - with Serian guides, we were told NOT to stand up. However when you, @@Kitsafari and I went back in Feb; it was allowed. Maybe guests complained when they saw so many others as we had standing...who knows? But as you, when in Botswana we did not stand as well. Except for a photo op, I think it better for the wilife not to have so many people standing and making gestures. It could be stress inducing in my mind. Quietly sitting and observing would be my choice.

 

And I thought the same when seeing the Tiger and the prey; thinking of the Mara Cheetah! Who knows what they are thinking

[Atravelynn]

'WOWOWOW' for the tiger but just mere happines for DHOLE PUPS!?

Fantastic sightings either way!

Mere happiness definitely described what I felt (Andrew too) when we had another chance to see the dhole pups, having missed them the first time. They were visible for only a few moments in tall grass and the dogs were spread out, so if our gaze was not zeroed in on the right spot at the right time, we didn't see the pups. And that is what happened the first time.

 

Michael, I refuse to believe you're Austrian, the way you write in English! Are you sure?

 

Not only writing, but speaking. I asked Michael if he used English on the job all of the time and that is how he became so proficient and "native." He said he did not and that English was his just his holiday language. Obviously his trip report language too. Several times when I used slang or idioms I stopped to check if he had ever heard of the term. He always knew. The only question I recall came up at the airport in Delhi when we were leaving. There was a foot massage place with fish therapy where you put your feet in a tank and little fish exfoliate the callouses and such on your feet. Michael claimed he would not be able to endure that therapy because his feet were....that's when he was not sure if the word was tickly or ticklish. Since he is in Aberdare in Kenya at the moment I can reveal all these secrets.

 

He is truly linguistically gifted. Maybe that trait goes along with ticklish feet.

 

Michael vowed to upgrade his Hindi skills next time and he was off to a good start by mastering "Aap ne baagh Dekha" which is have you seen the tiger?

 

The dhole pups are such a lucky find. I wonder why Indian antelope, even though they carry such lovely antlers, have such moth-eaten scraggly coats? Esp the sambar, but even the others. Wonder why that is. I agree with the shedding winter clothes explanation. Those clothes better be shed by now with the reports I am hearing of 114 C temps in Delhi!

 

Glad you are going to Kaziranga, Sangeeta!

 

 

 

That was an amazing sighting of Maya! Incidently, have you guys seen the documenatary that was aired recently on the Telia sisters (Maya and her sisters?) -

Thank you for the documentary info!

 

 

 

You can count me as one! I was on the fence about India altogether, and actually planning a return to Ndutu for February '16 when this report changed my direction!

Shift your Ndutu trip forward a few weeks into March and I'll see you there!

 

 

 

I have seen the phenomenon of prey watching a predator used in practice at the London Wetland Centre. A dog has been trained to walk along the bank of a lake until it reaches a funnel of netting which it enters. The wild ducks on the lake are so concerned to keep the predator in view that they follow it into the netting which is then closed off to capture the ducks and the dog released. The ducks can then be counted and tagged.

Now that is a fascinating implementation of this phenomenon!

 

@@michael-ibk, just awesome. How hot was Tadoba, this would have been early to mid-April, did you miss the "real" heat of the day with safari times or did you find it unbearably hot out there? Our Tadoba dates were 25 - 28 March. We did miss the real heat of the day at midday but what we experienced was hot, probably 30-32 C out in the Gypsy. The difference between Tadoba (Pench very similar) and Kanha was drastic. Kanha was cold in the mornings. Tadoba required no fleece. I never felt like I just wanted to end the drive due to the heat, but it was really hot. Walking to and from lunch, I made sure I had a hat and/or sought out shade along the way the way. Fortunately Savasara rooms were cool and comfortable. A fan and A/C was available.

 

Maybe I missed something, why is Lynn wearing white, silk gloves?

To go with my hat and shoes of course! The real answer goes along with your heat and sun question. I had taken some Cipro for diarrhea and you're supposed to limit exposure to direct sunlight so I was covering up exposed body parts with the gloves, which were cotton, not silk. When I go to really hot places with open vehicles I take these cotton gloves for extra sun protection.

 

The Tigress "lost her cubs to Dhole", is this unusual, could she not hold her own against them or would she have been absent? I am guessing she was absent, given the size of the dhole packs that we saw. We were told that long ago when dhole packs were in the dozens (up to 50-60) that tiger hunters would completely avoid areas with these packs, knowing there would be no tigers. Large packs of dogs were able to take on a tigress and her cubs. But the 4-12 sized packs of today could handle only helpless cubs. In fact a threat to dhole populations is tigers killing the dhole pups, especially when the size of the pack is no threat to deter a tiger.

 

Now that you know about Michael's ticklish feet, let me share something about Andrew that I thought was quite a coincidence. Our conversation turned to hobbies and interests and I found out Andrew had recently taken up the piano. I had too a few years ago. We discussed teach-yourself-to-play books and it turns out Andrew is using the very same book I used. Since I am about 2 years ahead of him, I had finished the book but I remember all the songs and we had fun discussing them. His book was German version, but the lyrics to the songs were the same. I just got an update from Andrew on his latest piece, a blues tune, which we both agreed was a good one.

Edited May 30, 2015 by Atravelynn

[Zubbie15]

 

We should definitely count the number of trips and number of people this report ends up generating!

 

You can count me as one! I was on the fence about India altogether, and actually planning a return to Ndutu for February '16 when this report changed my direction!

 

 

Me too (but for 2017), assuming I can convince my wife.

[Atravelynn]

Tadoba Day Two

 

 

Tadoba Lake

 

Gaur

Langur Common Hawk Cuckoo

 

Red vented bulbul

Great Egret

Red Spurfowl

Sambar, male

Sambar, female

 

 

Kullu Tree, known as Ghost Tree

Tadoba Lake again

 

For crocodile, Tadoba has Muggers but not Gharial. Sightings are not common and occur most often in the lake. We were surprised and thrilled to see this guy in a small muddy pond. It was a highlight of our morning.

Mugger in a muddy pool

 

To kick off our afternoon drive, Rajan demonstrated his exceptional spotting skills with this Indian Thick-knee.

Indian Thick-knee

 

Indian roller

We decided to try the Panderpauni waterholes again since the previous day had brought such good luck. But would luck strike two days in a row?

Edited June 2, 2015 by Atravelynn

[Atravelynn]

Luck and Namdev strike!

 

Namdev is a 7-8 year old male.

 

Namdev

 

a very distant Namdev

 

There had been a lot of excitement and maneuvering for a good position with this sighting. The maneuvering was not by the drivers, it was by the Gypsy occupants. To the left, now to the right and Rajan shooting from the rear by hanging onto the back bar. At one point I was no longer in the second row. We even had a surprise guest in our vehicle. The night before we had met two women traveling on a group tour that ended up with only two participants. One of them was from Austria. Suddenly I was aware that there were 3 Austrians in the vehicle when she had joined us from her vehicle, hoping for a better view. Because changing vehicles is against the rules, we did not extend our hospitality for long and she was advised to return to her Gypsy.

 

When the tiger had disappeared and we had composed ourselves, I felt I should apologize for any inadvertently poor behavior on my part, such as jostling the vehicle or nudging my safarimates during the sighting. Both Andrew and Michael graciously insisted no apologies were needed. I guess all is fair in love, war, and tiger sightings!

 

harrier

Glossy Ibis

Rosy Starlings

Oriental Honey Buzzard

Oriental Honey Buzzard in the sunset

Edited June 2, 2015 by Atravelynn

[SafariChick]

Wow, what a fantastic sighting of Namdev! I love how he is simultaneously bathing, drinking and napping! One cannot tell from the photos all of the maneuvering for position and tumult that was going on so it's interesting to hear about the behind-the-scenes action too! Oh my, someone jumped into your vehicle? That does seem a definite no-no, I can't imagine doing that - also does not sound safe! Funny story, great shots.

[janzin]

I've been waiting eagerly for the next installment and it didn't disappoint The drinking tiger...oh my! You had unbelievable luck with tigers on this trip, I just hope you haven't raised my expectations too high, LOL.

 

And thanks again for all the bird photos too!

[Treepol]

@@Atravelynn Namdev is a cool cat - I like the photo of him napping while he cools down.

 

Lovely roller photo too.

[TonyQ]

What a great sighting (and photos) of the tiger in the water - drinking, washing, relaxing and cooling off. Although the tigers are obviously special, you also show that there is much other beautiful wildlife here - the gaur are very impressive, I always like to see monkeys, and some loveley birds.

[elefromoz]

Lovely sighting of him swimming/wading across the waterhole. Great harrier in flight shot too.

[Galago]

@atravelynn We were about three rows back from you at the Namdev sighting and sat open mouthed at the 'gypsy hopping' behaviour (and then had fantasies of lobbing soft objects as this 'vehicle invasion' made our very restricted view even narrower). I couldn't even photograph Namdev but our guide, Pradeep, took a few for me by standing on the roll bars of the jeep.

 

Your bird photos are really nice, and I especially like the Rosy starling shot. What kind of harrier is that? And I'm most envious of your thick-knee sighting. It seemed to be a good place for paddling Oriental honey-buzzards - I have a similar shot.

 

And the ghost tree is Sterculia Urens (for Tom and any other plant enthusiasts). Weren't they just stunning? I loved the way you'd just get a little higher up and the ground would be stonier and, bingo, there was this ghostly tree. I'm certain they walk around at night

[Atravelynn]

@atravelynn We were about three rows back from you at the Namdev sighting and sat open mouthed at the 'gypsy hopping' behaviour. Then you can bear witness that I am not just making this up.

 

What kind of harrier is that? Sorry, I don't know but welcome suggestions.

[elefromoz]

 

There had been a lot of excitement and maneuvering for a good position with this sighting. The maneuvering was not by the drivers, it was by the Gypsy occupants. To the left, now to the right and Rajan shooting from the rear by hanging onto the back bar. At one point I was no longer in the second row. We even had a surprise guest in our vehicle. The night before we had met two women traveling on a group tour that ended up with only two participants. One of them was from Austria. Suddenly I was aware that there were 3 Austrians in the vehicle when she had joined us from her vehicle, hoping for a better view. Because changing vehicles is against the rules, we did not extend our hospitality for long and she was advised to return to her Gypsy.

 

When the tiger had disappeared and we had composed ourselves, I felt I should apologize for any inadvertently poor behavior on my part, such as jostling the vehicle or nudging my safarimates during the sighting. Both Andrew and Michael graciously insisted no apologies were needed. I guess all is fair in love, war, and tiger sightings!

 

 

 

This is really very funny, whilst I don't condone such…audacious…behaviour, I understand how desperation over-rides good-manners. Just re-visiting your spectacular photos of Namdev, I'd possibly be up for a bit of Gypsy Jumping too, to get a look at that beauty.

On that point, you had such extra-ordinary numbers of and quality Tiger sightings, pretty well everyday, did you, at any point, get just a little 'jaded" or blase'?

Although, the above last paragraph suggests not

 

 

 

[graceland]

Namdev was one cool cat

 

People get out of their vehicles and jump into others? What do the guides do or say? Seems dangerous to say the least with movement around the tigers. Can you say, Get Out?

[Galago]

@atravelynn Really not sure about the harrier. It could be a female Marsh (Eurasian). What do you think?

 

@graceland I think the guides are unwilling to speak out too much for fear of offending the visitors. If the woman could've heard what was being said in our vehicle about her behaviour she would have been embarrassed!

[Atravelynn]

 

 

There had been a lot of excitement and maneuvering for a good position with this sighting. The maneuvering was not by the drivers, it was by the Gypsy occupants. To the left, now to the right and Rajan shooting from the rear by hanging onto the back bar. At one point I was no longer in the second row. We even had a surprise guest in our vehicle. The night before we had met two women traveling on a group tour that ended up with only two participants. One of them was from Austria. Suddenly I was aware that there were 3 Austrians in the vehicle when she had joined us from her vehicle, hoping for a better view. Because changing vehicles is against the rules, we did not extend our hospitality for long and she was advised to return to her Gypsy.

 

When the tiger had disappeared and we had composed ourselves, I felt I should apologize for any inadvertently poor behavior on my part, such as jostling the vehicle or nudging my safarimates during the sighting. Both Andrew and Michael graciously insisted no apologies were needed. I guess all is fair in love, war, and tiger sightings!

 

This is really very funny, whilst I don't condone such…audacious…behaviour, I understand how desperation over-rides good-manners. Just re-visiting your spectacular photos of Namdev, I'd possibly be up for a bit of Gypsy Jumping too, to get a look at that beauty.

On that point, you had such extra-ordinary numbers of and quality Tiger sightings, pretty well everyday, did you, at any point, get just a little 'jaded" or blase'?

Although, the above last paragraph suggests not

 

Not, Not, Not! But I will admit to taking fewer photos of tigers on the road. I like a more natural background.

 

Namdev was one cool cat

 

People get out of their vehicles and jump into others? What do the guides do or say? Seems dangerous to say the least with movement around the tigers. Can you say, Get Out?

Everything happened so fast. I do believe either Rajan or the local naturalist said to our new occupant that it is against the rules to change vehicles. Plus I think her guide beckoned her back after about a minute. Since she popped in next to me, I gave the first reaction which was not a hospitable, "Welcome aboard," but more like a startled, "Oh my goodness, look at you." Followed with, "All the Austrians visiting India happen to by in my vehicle now." Which was probably an exaggeration. She did not remain long.

 

@atravelynn Really not sure about the harrier. It could be a female Marsh (Eurasian). What do you think? Consulting my bird book, Eurasian Harrier is my guess. Michael got the shot. His Canon 400 DSLR did well with birds.

 

@graceland I think the guides are unwilling to speak out too much for fear of offending the visitors. If the woman could've heard what was being said in our vehicle about her behaviour she would have been embarrassed! I wish I could have heard what you were saying.

[Atravelynn]

************************************************************ THE ALL IMPORTANT ADAPTER *******************************************************************************

 

I take 2 or 3, in case one does not work. On the trip prior to this, I took 3 because they came 3 to a pack. There is no way (at least that I know of) to test the adapters at home to be sure they transmit electricity. Well, one of the 3 did not work on the previous trip. So I was glad I had brought 3, leaving 2 working ones. It is possible to forget one adapter, especially with all the packing and unpacking. Or one of them could get broken while traveling. Or stepped on by an elephant, eaten by a hyena, stolen by a baboon, etc. I also bring at least 2 chargers and at least 4 batteries.

 

This is a Type D adapter and has worked in every location on all 3 trips to different parts of India.

[Tom Kellie]

And the ghost tree is Sterculia Urens (for Tom and any other plant enthusiasts). Weren't they just stunning? I loved the way you'd just get a little higher up and the ground would be stonier and, bingo, there was this ghostly tree. I'm certain they walk around at night

 

~ @@Galago

 

Many thanks for that!

Ha! They do look like they may deracinate and move about by starlight.

Thank you for telling us how they appear in higher, stony ground.

Tom K.

[Atravelynn]

 

And the ghost tree is Sterculia Urens (for Tom and any other plant enthusiasts). Weren't they just stunning? I loved the way you'd just get a little higher up and the ground would be stonier and, bingo, there was this ghostly tree. I'm certain they walk around at night

 

~ @@Galago

 

Many thanks for that!

Ha! They do look like they may deracinate and move about by starlight.

Thank you for telling us how they appear in higher, stony ground. And then, of course, they disappear, being ghost trees.

Tom K.

 

[Atravelynn]

Big Male in Kanha

Quote(s) of the Trip

 

@Elefromoz’s question regarding tiger sightings: “did you, at any point, get just a little 'jaded" or blase'?” is the perfect intro to the Quote(s) of the Trip.

Langdi (Limping Tigress) in Pench. She no longer limps.

Note the very white chest.

We were told she had more white on her than the average tiger.

Langdi (Limping Tigress) in Pench. She no longer limps.

 

One of the Tadoba naturalists summed up his obsession with the tiger and scored a Quote of the Trip, “The tiger has kidnapped me.”

 

Rajan bolstered that comment with his own observation: “I may see many tigers but each time I see one is like my first tiger.”

 

I asked Rajan if he could remember that very first sighting and he explained that at age 4 or 5 he was in a vehicle with his naturalist big brother Ashok (who also guided me on my first trip) and Ashok’s driver friend. Rajan recalled the tiger’s movements as it walked along a stream and up onto the road. This big cat was very intimidating to young Rajan. I love how he described those feelings of seeing his first tiger: “I was looking very scary.”

 

Ryashaka, Male Tiger in Pench

 

One of three brothers, age approximately 2.5 years. Pench.

Tigress Maya in Tadoba

Maya, flower sniffing

Edited June 6, 2015 by Atravelynn

[Galago]

Superb shots! Funny how you, Michael and I all have different versions of that tiger's name. I was told he is Raiyakasa. Still, we all saw him very well, and that's what matters. My favourite sighting was at Satpura where you're more likely not to see a tiger because they're nervous and not habituated to vehicles. This male ran fast, growling all the way and I just had the chance to grab one photo. I like it because it's 'jungley' and feels very natural (although if I hadn't already had excellent close views I may have been a little less sanguine about it!).

[Tom Kellie]

 

Thank you for telling us how they appear in higher, stony ground. And then, of course, they disappear, being ghost trees.

 

~ @@Atravelynn

 

Spooky!

Might they be ‘shade trees’?

Tom K.

[Tom Kellie]

Superb shots! Funny how you, Michael and I all have different versions of that tiger's name. I was told he is Raiyakasa. Still, we all saw him very well, and that's what matters. My favourite sighting was at Satpura where you're more likely not to see a tiger because they're nervous and not habituated to vehicles. This male ran fast, growling all the way and I just had the chance to grab one photo. I like it because it's 'jungley' and feels very natural (although if I hadn't already had excellent close views I may have been a little less sanguine about it!).

 

~ @@Galago

 

That's a nice forest image, with tree trunks aplenty.

I like how the tiger's stripes are in excellent focus.

That you heard him growling all the way is fascinating.

Thank you!

Tom K.