Stripes of Wild India

[graceland]

OMG the hoopie, I had no idea!! No wonder you'll love and look...I've changed my mind. I wanted to be a kingfisher i saw in Zimbabwe all bright and beautiful....(for the 20something) but now ....sorry KF, I wan to be a Common Hoopie - not nearly as splashy colorwise- with those black/white stripes, a bit more Audrey Hepburn; 50's stars.... - under the radar with neutral apparel....and probably a pearl hidden somewhere and the all important ," class."

 

Just lovely.

[Alexander33]

@ michael-ibk

 

I'm continuing to enjoy this report very much. I'm also glad you're including some of the bird photos. I remember trying in vain adequately to capture the brightly colored minivets (don't recall the exact species, offhand) when we were in Cambodia. Between their small size, the tall trees and the hazy, smoky sky, I just gave up and enjoyed them through my binoculars. I think you did a great job. Same with the parakeets. And hooray on the hoopoe, a favorite of mine as well.

 

If I missed it earlier, I apologize, but what was the weather like? Hot; sultry; pleasant? In some of the photos it looks breezy and almost a bit cool, but, being India, I'm not so sure about that.

Edited April 30, 2015 by Alexander33

[Earthian]

@@michael-ibk

beautiful photograph of the hoopie

[michael-ibk]

 

One wonders what the Coppersmith Barbet's melody might be like.

Tom K.

 

 

@@Tom Kellie

 

http://www.xeno-canto.org/209943/embed

 

http://www.xeno-canto.org/197839/embed

 

This should give you an idea.

[michael-ibk]

Thanks, @Earthian , @@graceland and @@Alexander33

 

Welcome to the Hoopoe fan club!

 

Weather: It WAS pretty warm but not sultry, not too humid, at times pretty dusty, though. (There was one afternoon where the heat and the dust were getting to me and I was not feeling all that well.) It certainly was warm enough that I was comfortable wearing only my open sandals even in the morning at the beginning of our drives.(My toes would have frozen off in Kanha in the mornings had I done that there.) I´m not very good with estimating temperatures, but I´d say 30 ° Celsius maybe? Not much more, I´d think. Temperature was most pleasant in Eastern Zone, with the constant shade of trees and a fine breeze coming up from the water. Especially in the more open Central and Western zones, a hat is certainly very necessary in the open cars, as is making an effort to drink enough.

[michael-ibk]

Bit more from the Elephants and Rhino:

 

[Zim Girl]

How wonderful it must have been to see both elephants and rhinos at the same time - and so close together!

[Sverker]

Such a great report, pics and storytelling!

 

I had a chance to see Kasiranga and northeastern India this year, but could´t because of health issues.

 

But certainly an other year ...

[Tom Kellie]

 

 

One wonders what the Coppersmith Barbet's melody might be like.

Tom K.

 

 

@@Tom Kellie

 

http://www.xeno-canto.org/209943/embed

 

http://www.xeno-canto.org/197839/embed

 

This should give you an idea.

 

 

~ @michael-ibk:

 

How might one indicate SUPER-SUPER-Like?

Those Coppersmith Barbet audio files are MAGNIFICENT!

I'll leave for he airport in one hour, thus they're perhaps the final Safaritalk posting to enjoy before returning to Kenya for the 8th safari.

What an elegant send-off you've given me.

Many, many Thanks!

Tom K.

[michael-ibk]

Thanks, and you´re welcome, @@Tom Kellie . Have a fabulous trip!

 

And thanks, @@Sverker , glad you like it. Sorry you hear you couldn´t make it, I remember we were even discussing the possibility of a GTG in Kaziranga but our dates didn´t match. Get well soon!

[TonyQ]

As well as being beautiful photos, showing the elephant and rhino in the same picture realy brings home how big the rhino are - very solid creatures!

[Atravelynn]

Such a great report, pics and storytelling!

 

I had a chance to see Kasiranga and northeastern India this year, but could´t because of health issues.

 

But certainly an other year ...

Hope you can get there and that you are healthy now!

[Atravelynn]

As well as being beautiful photos, showing the elephant and rhino in the same picture realy brings home how big the rhino are - very solid creatures!

Sold sighting, I like that. We had 2 rhino/ele combo sightings on 2 days, both in Eastern.

[michael-ibk]

In the afternoon it was back to the Western zone (Baguri) again. This is the most popular one, and since it was Sunday it was very crowded that day. It had been fine the days before, and the morning in Eastern zone (which is less visited) as well, but now it was a bit much, the roads were almost congested with jeeps in the beginning.

When we entered the gate the elephants used here for riding (for Indians only) enjoyed their daily bath and got a good wash from their mahouts, a lovely scene with the grey giants almost submerged.





We drove to a watchtower overseeing the Donga beel and had a magnificent view from here, the plains on the other shore were unbelievably full, hundreds of mammals were peacefully munching away over there.



Too far away for good pictures, but a stunning sight with the binocs, this was Serengeti/Mara-like, don´t think there are other places with so many big grazers to be found together in one place in India. Only in Kaziranga.



I tried to count the Rhinos and came up with well over fourty, a park guide next to me in the tower said he had counted 54!



Lots of Buffalos.



Eastern Barasinga and Hog Deer.





Two of us immensely enjoyed this, one was .... otherwise occupied. I´ll leave it to Lynn to cover the details here.

When more and more tourists arrived we left, I think at least 20 cars or more had arrived by now. The rest of the afternoon went pretty quiet.





Emerald Dove

Out in the open areas again we heard alarm calls and were hoping for Tiger. While the Big Striped One very probably was nearby, he of course remained invisible inside the high grass.



A Rhino was grazing close to us, giving us a pretty unfriendly look as it came closer.



As it turned out this guy really didn´t like us:



He charged!



Not too fast, but his intentions were clear - ram that ugly green thing with the annoying gawking creatures.



As I was behind the viewfinder it didn´t even ocur to me that we were in a potentially dangerous situation, I just though "Great, very cool shots I´m getting here."



As a matter of fact I was so "in" photography mode that I was honestly annoyed when the car suddenly moved - of course Tarun had made sure we got away in time. I laughed at my annoyance, my "viewfinder mode" -induced stupidity. Good to have a guide who knows when it´s time to go.



These guys who we bypassed were cutting it a bit closer.

Rhino chargings are no laughing matter, accidents do happen as Tarun told us. They are feared by the rangers, especially when they happen upon one in the tall elephant grass. Naturally, mothers with calves are the most dangerous ones. Their speed should not be underestimated, despite their bulky and lethargic appearance - they can clock 55 km/h when chasing someone. Indian Rhins do not use their horns to gore victims btw. But that´s little consolation - they rather use their sharp teeth to bite off chunks of flesh instead. Ouch!

No rhinos tomorrow morning - now we would try to find Apes!

[AKR1]

Great stuff, Michael with stunning pictures and wonderful tidbits. "Indian rhinos do not gore but use their teeth". I had no idea of this at all. A rhino with aggressive or attack behavior akin to a hippo?

[Atravelynn]

As we departed for our afternoon drive to the Western Zone, I was feeling the effects of dehydration that must have happened during the morning outing.

 

Our first stop was the tower overlooking the 54 rhino. It was atop the tower that I became aware my innards were clearly about to revolt. Not only could I spy a multitude of grazers from several stories up, but also a very nicely constructed building that I figured must be some kind of visitor center. Surely it would house a restroom I could use for some much needed relief from the urgent nausea.

 

I descended the tower stairs as quickly as my wobbly legs allowed and as I made my way to the center, I thought I should double check with one of the guides milling around the base of the tower. “That’s a toilet, right?” I asked.

 

“Oh no,” he replied, “that is a temple.”

 

My nausea worsened at the thought I was seconds away from throwing up in a Hindu temple and at my sudden lack of options.

 

“But the toilet is over there,” he continued. I rerouted and hoped my stomach would tolerate the detour. Made it just in time and the temple was spared from a disgraceful international incident!

 

Fortunately that’s all it took to return to feeling normal so that I could fully enjoy that afternoon's rhino charge.

Edited May 1, 2015 by Atravelynn

[Kitsafari]

"While Kaziranga does feel very wild inside the park it´s surrounded by civilization, an island really. The B37 as its Southern border especially with heavy traffic means death for too many animals. Still, from what Tarun has told us people here are very proud of "their" park, and apparently many volunteers help saving animals during monsoon when much of the park is flooded. (And lots of people´s homes as well, many have to leave their huts and houses and basically live next to the road on the elevation.)"

 

@@michael-ibk that is so heartening to hear! how wonderful of the local community that they will think of the animals' welfare when their own homes are under water. i'm quite touched by it.

[Kitsafari]

I;m only at post #56 - @@michael-ibk you mentioned only one camera was brought into the park - was it yours then?

 

your landscape photos show a very pretty Kaziranga. I was surprised as I had expected a thicker and denser forest landscape.

[Kitsafari]

@@Atravelynn arggh, no fun to get sick during safari, but fortunately it was for a short period. your determination to see those amazing viewings - 54 rhinos?! wow - from the watchtower - was a great incentive to recover.

[Atravelynn]

I;m only at post #56 - @@michael-ibk you mentioned only one camera was brought into the park - was it yours then?

Important point you brought up. We had one camera per person. That was a total of 3 cameras for 3 people. The INR 500 was about $8 USD per day.

 

@@Atravelynn arggh, no fun to get sick during safari, but fortunately it was for a short period. your determination to see those amazing viewings - 54 rhinos?! wow - from the watchtower - was a great incentive to recover.

It happens, though, and we are both living proof.

Edited May 1, 2015 by Atravelynn

[michael-ibk]

A few words about our accomodations: We stayed at the Wild Grass Lodge, probably still the default choice for the wildlife visitor travelling to Kaziranga. It´s so well established that they not even have a signpost on the the B37. From our research I´d say Diphlu River Lodge would also be a good option, but it´s substantially more expensive and we were told WGL has the best guides. (And we can at least confirm that they have one super guide with Tarun. )



Only a few minutes from the B37, and perfectly situated for quick access to the three major zones. It has 18 rooms, all with attached bathrooms.





The rooms, very spacious:



We very much enjoyed the gardens, lots of birds always fluttering around. (Mostly Mynas and Bulbuls, but we also saw Bee-Eaters and even a Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker, a striking tiny red bird.)







House Sparrow





Asian Barred Owlet seen in the morning.



The Veranda

The lodge has a very old-style, colonial feel to it, with lots of dark, creaking floors and heavy furniture. It certainly shows its age and is pretty "unfancy", but everything you need is there: comfy beds, enough space, clean rooms, nice staff (don´t expect anybody speaking English fluently though!) and good food. The only thing I´d change was the shower. There´s no barrier, just a curtain to the rest of the bathroom, so everytime you take a shower everything is flooded.

The dining room:



As I mentioned food was on average very good, sometimes ok, sometimes excellent. They mostly prepare the vegetables from their own gardens, and there´s always some chicken, too. Especially loved the potatoes, tasting so much richer than ours back home. Very spicy though - I enjoy that, but I´m quite sure it would be too much for many people. All meals were served, and we had many, many bowls with tasty stuff to choose from. I appreciated that they also tried to have some variety, they did one "Chinese" lunch.

If you enjoy your drinks, however, this is not the place for you. They had almost no alcoholic drinks at all, only beer. I think it was on our first lunch break there, coming back from the park, when I was really looking forward to a cool, refreshing beer. What I got was this:



The "He-Man 9000 Ultra Super Strong Beer". I couldn´t quite believe that very amusing name, but it really is what it says. 0,75 l of 13,5 % alcohol!!! I was more than just a little tipsy afterwards.

All in all, I doubt many people totally fall in love with the Wild Grass Lodge, but it´s a good choice if you don´t mind a no-frills stay and can get by without a choice of drinks. (Not all people can, some Italian guests were complaining bitterly about the lack of alcoholic choices.) The most important thing is the wildlife experience, and their guides certainly deliver in that regards. Tarun was not only our guide, btw, he always made sure everything was ok with our rooms and food, and always stressed that we should inform him if we had any problems at all, he would take care of it. There was no need to, however, we had nothing to complain about.

[michael-ibk]

you mentioned only one camera was brought into the park - was it yours then?

 

your landscape photos show a very pretty Kaziranga. I was surprised as I had expected a thicker and denser forest landscape.

 

Sorry for the confusion @@Kitsafari , we were all travelling with two cameras and like Lynn said we chose to bring just one to the game drives.

 

Kaziranga has a reputation for many, but invisible animals, yes, but that´s not because of the forest (which is not very dense compared to the Bamboo thicket of Tadoba for example) but of the elephant grass which just is too high to enable sightings. There´s just the small time frame end of February and March when visibility is better because the rangers burn the grass down.

[AKR1]

Micheal

Excellent description of the lodging which is very useful. Very funny too- showers that flood the bathroom which is very common outside 5 star luxury accommodations in India. Also the super strong He Man beer that I have never heard about. Seems very iffy.

[michael-ibk]

It is, @@AKR1 , but I found out that when mixing it with Fanta (which I never drink normally but my craving for turning this beer into something bearable was so strong) it´s quite drinkable - for dinner at least.

[Big_Dog]

Bloody hell, the rhino next to the elephant...I've seen other various 'size comparison' photos, but Indian Rhinos are huge! The sight of multiple ones grazing together is also a magnificent site.

Got a chuckle at the House Sparrow too.