Road trip 2015: The Hunt For Red Dune

[Tdgraves]

@@xelas the rib/chop looks a little overdone

[xelas]

@@Tdgraves

 

Yeah, probably ... but even little crispy they were so much better than rice&can ! And I still have all summer to perfect the technique .

[Atravelynn]

Keep on grillin'!

[penolva]

@@xelas this is so funny, well done, very professional braai technique. Now just wait to do it with lions around

[xelas]

Apr 27th - Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park / !Xaus Lodge

 

 

Our original booking for this day was Bitterpan. However, I have to admit that I have just chickened out, and asked mrs.Dry to find us something else. Little did I know at that time how complicated job I have given to her. A week before our departure she wrote to me saying there will be a nice surprise waiting for us. And she was definitively not wrong!

 

Out of the Nossob camp we turned south first, passing by Cubitje Quap and turning back at Kwang. Not much we have seen but two raptors at great distance,

 

Immature Martial Eagle

Bateleur Eagle

Back through the camp, after we have refuelled our not so thirsty camel, and were enjoying some time at Rooikop to watch the Blacked-backed Jackal and his cautious manoeuvreing to get to the waterhole.

 

 

For a colourful intermezzo there were starlings making all sorts of funny poses.

 

Cape Glossy Starling

More raptors along the way, finally a couple of properly matured goshawks, and another raptor I have problems with ID (too many of them just looks too similar - help please ).

 

Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk

We came early to the picnic site so we have had time to look around old acacia trees for any new bird. And we have been lucky.

 

Crimson-breasted Shrike

[xelas]

!Xaus Lodge, although positioned within the perimeter of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, is a privately owned lodge, on a private land. Each visitor can drive up with its car (4x4 obligatory) but needed to be escorted by the lodge's vehicle. The meeting point is at Namqua picnic site, at 14:30 each day.

 

The starting point of the 4x4 sand trail is about 5 km from the Kamqua picnic site in direction to Twee Rivieren. Those guests unwilling or unable to drive by themselves can park the cars (and the trailers) at covered parking lot.

 

The drive to the lodge is 29 km of sand and dunes. 4x4 engaged, 2nd gear most of the time, and one only lesson given by John, the guide: "Use the momentum! If loosing momentum, just slide back down the dune. Do not force the dune or you will spend the rest of the day digging". The ride itself was much easier than I have been afraid of. Constant speed is the key. Views over the endless sea of red dunes was great. Wildlife almost non-existent. It took us 60 minutes to reach the lodge. Great drive.

 

As we have had only 1 night at !Xaus Lodge, and activities were included in the price of the lodge, we immediately went on our first, the afternoon game drive. It was our first game drive with a driver. Not that I didn't enjoy the drive, but I do prefer to have the opportunity to stop whenever I (or Zvezda) like. Also on the game drive not much wildlife was seen. A lonely steenbok, and a family of suricates.

 

Back at the lodge we just switched drivers and off we went, to a sundowner place. In the middle of the dunes, with cold drinks and snacks, we waited for sun to go down. Blissful!

 

[michael-ibk]

You might not have seen much, but that Meerkat sighting alone would have made my day. And just wow to the sunset photos - once again!

[penolva]

And food :)

[dlo]

@@xelas

 

Finally all caught up and just love you're red dunes shots, really good stuff. I ended up cutting sossusvlei at the end of my planning and have severely regretted it since, you are not helping with this. My wife was quite bitter with me for not getting meerkats in our trip so I will not be showing her this report.

 

Really enjoying you showing me what I missed.

[xelas]

@@dlo

 

Why be sorry, just go back! I was not too found of Sossusvlei also, and to me they look much better on photos then "live". However if doing a south of Namibia route Sossusvlei is an obligatory stop.

 

There will be more meerkats photos ! Easier to get a good shot of a meerkat then of a cheetah . And please, do share our trip report also with your wife.

Edited June 21, 2015 by xelas

[Marks]

Love the texture on the hornbill closeup.

 

The snake series was initially fascinating, but upon learning that it may have been injured, I feel a bit badly about being so interested. In any case, I appreciate the info from @@Peter Connan about its venom. That's the only dangerous snake I've seen so far in Africa, so it's good to know a bit more about it.

 

Braai training looks productive (and delicious!).

[xelas]

@@Marks

 

We have showed the photos to guides in !Xaus Lodge, and they said sometimes the snake fakes is injured, to attract the possible prey. It did moved as seen from the photos. It was on my wife's side of the car and to her recollection the snake was not showing any signs of being driven over.

 

Love the texture on the hornbill closeup. - it is all about great glass! I am so happy to pull the trigger a year ago and got us a second hand but perfect AF-S 300mm f1/4 telephoto lens. With TC 1.4 attached it is a proper 420 mm with excellent IQ. There are rumours of new, lighter 500 mm lens ... OK, wake up Alex, enough of day dreamin' !!

[Marks]

I will hold out hope for the snake, then! I've heard of some snakes (like the famous hognose) playing dead, but faking an injury is perhaps even more impressive.

 

I can just imagine your expression as you think about this rumored lens...all I can say is that if you get it, I will gladly appreciate the results!

[Atravelynn]

You might not have seen much, but that Meerkat sighting alone would have made my day. And just wow to the sunset photos - once again!

All worth it for those meerkats!

[Peter Connan]

@@Marks

 

We have showed the photos to guides in !Xaus Lodge, and they said sometimes the snake fakes is injured, to attract the possible prey. It did moved as seen from the photos. It was on my wife's side of the car and to her recollection the snake was not showing any signs of being driven over.

 

Love the texture on the hornbill closeup. - it is all about great glass! I am so happy to pull the trigger a year ago and got us a second hand but perfect AF-S 300mm f1/4 telephoto lens. With TC 1.4 attached it is a proper 420 mm with excellent IQ. There are rumours of new, lighter 500 mm lens ... OK, wake up Alex, enough of day dreamin' !!

 

I sinncerely hope this guide was right and that the snake is fine!

 

That lighter 500mm is definately coming. Nikon's big lenses have two shortcomings when compared to Canon. The one is that they are much heavier, the second is that in some markets (like here in SA) they are much more expensive.

 

They started remedying the first with the 800mm by using a Fluorite element, then they put that technology in the 400mm f2.8. The 500 and 600 will follow, it's just a matter of time.

 

The problem is that none of this is helping with the second problem, so I don't knw if any of us will be able to afford it! SO I think you had better start searching for somebody who needs a kidney...

[xelas]

As already said, our time at !Xaus Lodge was filled with activities. After the afternoon game drive, and evening sundowner drive, now it was time for some walking. Even before breakfast we went out for a morning walk. This time, plants were the focus of our attention. John was the guide, and he gave us excellent botanical lessons (if only I would be able to follow him more attentively). Many informations about medical use of the plants were the part that was specially interesting to Zvezda. There was also the second guide with us, who was constantly scanning the area with binoculars for possible threats. It is a wild place after all, Kgalagadi.

 

Devil's Claw was one of those plants we would never expect to see in such arid desert. The flower in its trumpet shape looks so innocent but later it turns into a vicious thorn.

 

 

Huge weaver's nest are found also in this remote area.

 

 

This one looked abandoned, yet there was another desert dweller that made a good use of it.

 

Western Rock Skink

 

The whole group seems to be genuinely interested into what our guide was telling us.

 

 

 

Another beautiful flower with a devilish name: Devil's Thorn. It must have been some good rains as it appeared in masses.

 

 

Tsamma melon is one of the most essential plants in Kalahari. Just a flower but one day it will become a proper melon.

 

 

Following two plants, we need your help to ID them ! We were obviously not taking notes of what we have been told.

 

 

On our way through the Kalahari desert.

 

Edited June 22, 2015 by xelas

[Treepol]

@@xelas thanks for the information on !Xaus Lodge activities - I don't think that I have read a ST report on this lodge before. The game may have been scarce, but the meerkats made up for that!

[xelas]

Our fourth, and last activity at !Xaus Lodge was the visit to the Cultural Village. Of course that was not a real village; who would like to live in the middle of nowhere, in 2015?!

 

As the land and the lodge is owned by the local San and Mier tribes, this village is a representation of how they have lived not far ago. It benefits all parties involved; the lodge has one more activity for the guests, the tribe members has an additional source of income, the elders of the tribe can pass their knowledge to younger generation, and the young ... well, they have fun for sure!

 

I don't think any comment is needed so I will share only photos, in chronological order.

 

[xelas]

In-depth reviews of lodges are not my forte. I do like them all, have no problems even if they are basic, as long as the room is clean, bed is relatively comfortable and the toilet ... is there. However, using @@Treepol remark as an excuse, I will share my (our) thoughts about !Xaus Lodge. Most of the relevant informations about the lodge, its history and its mission can be found on their web site: http://www.xauslodge.co.za .

 

I would never consider staying at !Xaus Lodge. Because of its price. But I am more than grateful to Gemma to offer us one night at this lodge. Outside it looks like many others lodges we have visited in Namibia; wooden cabins positioned along a raised boardwalk, with centre area for eating and socialising. What puts this lodge on top of the lodges we have stayed at, along the Grootberg Lodge, is the special positive vibe that we have received there. The location itself is far from spectacular, yet there is that good, soft, positive vibe. And the staff! The most friendly, warm, happy staff we have encountered in Namibia. They came from local tribes, very good trained, but also very self confident, easy to engage in a conversation, always with a smile on their faces. The guides were excellent, especially John, you can feel their engagement with the environment and the local culture. It must be the managers that have instilled that spirit in their staff. We have been lucky to chat with Richard for some time, and found from where the staff has received its willingness to assist guests, and warmth and professionalism. Here are some photos; in this case photos cannot describe what the words could ... if only I would be that good with the words. Also, interior photos were done when we were leaving the room; it has been much prettier when we have arrived.

 

Edited June 24, 2015 by xelas

[xelas]

There are several bird baths around the main area. One is especially photogenic; there is a large wall of uniform colour behind it, which provides great background. Like taking photos in a studio in front of a canvas. Another one is situated so that the pan in the background provides for the same effect.

 

Red-headed Finch

Red-headed Finch female

Red-headed Finch couple

Red-headed Finch female & Red-billed Quelea

Black--throated Canary

Couples & Single

[penolva]

Lovely bird pics Alex and Zvegdana

[twaffle]

I love that last photo, really beautiful.

[graceland]

Those birds are quite beautiful. Still enjoying your adventure!

[Tom Kellie]

 

After settling and moving the food into the fridge of our cabin in Nossob (yes, @@TonyQ , a quick job ) we drove out to explore the waterholes south of Nossob. Rooikop no luck, Marie se draai nice but almost void of animals. Gracious kudu female a bit farther (this one is special for @@Tom Kellie - I am missing his comments ).

Greater Kudu female

[Tom Kellie]

 

Gracious kudu female a bit farther (this one is special for @@Tom Kellie - I am missing his comments ).

Greater Kudu female

 

~ @@xelas

 

She's so completely shown — a really fine photograph!

I especially like the wildflowers beside her shadow.

It's so nice of you to post such a lovely kudu image.

Thank you!

Tom K.