A wild old time: a green season visit to Kenya October/November 2014

[pault]

What a happy safari. Thanks for sharing all your thoughts because, as with others, it brings back many nice memories. You of course should share every shareable detail of Laikipia Wilderness Camp, especially if you saw as much as your are strongly hinting.

 

I like your wider elephant view best for what it's worth but it's a lovely picture eithr way.

[CaroleE]

What a nice thing to have a daily visit from a handsome elephant (or so I am assuming - the view of it that I see on the previous page is at a very specific angle ).

 

Eager to see more.

 

It wouldn't be a safari without at least one ele walking away so all you see is his/her backside shot I'll find a better angle and post it.

There are two regular visitors. One was much more relaxed and they have been known to continue breakfast/lunch by the river when he is around, The other is a bit more unpredictable so everyone stays clear when he visits!

 

There is more to come. I'm working on Laikipia. Is taking somewhat longer to write.

[CaroleE]

What a happy safari. Thanks for sharing all your thoughts because, as with others, it brings back many nice memories. You of course should share every shareable detail of Laikipia Wilderness Camp, especially if you saw as much as your are strongly hinting.

 

I like your wider elephant view best for what it's worth but it's a lovely picture eithr way.

 

Thank you. I am veering towards liking the wider elephant view more as well.

It was a very happy safari. It got better and better as it went on. Hmmm could that be another hint about Laikipia?

I too like reading other people's trip reports and seeing the photos for exactly the same reason. Plus reading about places yet to be seen, which just makes the must visit list even longer. I'm working on Laikpia, it's taking longer to write than I thought (not much time right now) therefore I think I will split it into smaller posts.

[Atravelynn]

That first photo is post #2 must have an interesting story to go with it.

 

How can a phone hold more interest than all this?

 

The "bit of surprise shot" with the lions is a great catch.

 

The symmetrical flamingos are lovely. Ele in the river is in perfect light!

 

Now I am furious about the leopard being chased off its kill.

 

Samburu is a success!

 

Can you tell us your dates?

 

Looking forward to the rest.

Edited June 17, 2015 by Atravelynn

[CaroleE]

That first photo is post #2 must have an interesting story to go with it.

 

How can a phone hold more interest than all this?

 

The "bit of surprise shot" with the lions is a great catch.

 

The symmetrical flamingos are lovely. Ele in the river is in perfect light!

 

Now I am furious about the leopard being chased off its kill.

 

Samburu is a success!

 

Can you tell us your dates?

 

Looking forward to the rest.

 

The first photo in post #2. We were (still) on the hunt for black rhino and we came accross someone who said that there was a lion near a camp site. It wasn't very close but the rhino were proving elusive so we went for a look. We had a good look round the camp site but couldn't see any lions, Making our way back we came into a clearing with a big tree in it. And there sat a lion. Very high up. Well actually he was asleep/having a doze. Very occassionally he would put his head up, have a quick look around and then put his head back down. I tried every possible angle to get a good shot, even moving the vehicle but there were too many branches/leaves in the way or he didn't move his head. We were there quite a while so in the end I went for a shot of his paw hanging down from the tree. I had seen the tree climbing lions in Uganda but never really expected to see one in Kenya! Eventually as he looked very comfy and not likely to move we left to try and find the black rhino.

 

I still do not understand the people with the phone! I have the whole sequence of the bit of a surprise lion shot. I think I should make one of those flick books with them Thank you, I like the symmetrical flamingo shot too.

 

Arrived in Kenya 18 October, overnight in Nairobi. Lake Elementaita/Nakuru 19-20, Samburu 21-23. Laikipia 24-28 October. Then to Zanzibar for 7 nights.

 

I'm working on the rest

[CaroleE]

A few words about transport and my journeys around Kenya before I continue with the game drives and sightings.

 

All my flights within Kenya were with Safarilink. They had new check-in desks and café at Wilson since my last visit but the ground staff still do their great job of knowing who is flying where and with no boarding announcements still manage to find you and bring you to the correct plane.

 

Flight to Lake Naivasha/Loldia was in a Cessna Caravan but was unusual in one way. As I got into the aircraft the pilot introduced himself and said welcome VIP you are the only passenger! I am not aware that I paid for two seats. I think this was because the aircraft was already going to Naivasha to pick up passengers for the Mara flight. A few clouds on take-off but pretty soon they cleared and I had spectacular views of the Great Rift Valley, its hills, mountains and the inactive volcanos which dot this part of Kenya. It is a short flight, only about 20 minutes, and we were soon flying over the lake and landing on the dirt runway. Transfer to camp worked very well as my guide was already at the airstrip and I was soon at Lake Elementaita. With the usual form with the accident waiver text having to be signed at the gate into the conservancy. They were taking no chances you had to fill it in before you even reached camp!

 

 

I was also flying to Samburu but first I had a drive back to Nairobi. The drive started off interestingly as overnight there had been a lot of rain and the driver had decided to bring a minivan instead of a 4x4. On the way into camp the previous evening he had almost got stuck. It was going to be even worse after the overnight rain. It was still dark as we left (yes it was that early!) and the lodge were a bit concerned that we would get stuck so they very kindly went ahead of us in a 4x4 for part of the way so that they could find an easier way through the mud and also haul us out if necessary. But we made it and we were soon on a good tarmac road. There was a lot of rain on the way, which made for a not too interesting journey as it wasn’t possible to see too much as you passed by. Plus no possibility for a stop to eat the packed breakfast on the way. This we ate as we drove.

 

When we got back into Nairobi quite a few streets were under water. Back to Wilson and Safarilink for check in, Samburu flight was going via Lewa Downs. Going north I saw a dramatic change, the green lush of the Great Rift Valley disappeared and the land became drier and drier. Touch down at Lewa and a few minutes to stretch the legs and use one of the poshest loos I have ever seen at an airstrip! I have just read that Safarilink donates $5 for each passenger into or out of Lewa as a contribution to the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy. Bonus!

 

Final transfer was Samburu to Laikipia. During the planning stages, I had looked at various ways how to do this. Flying meant a flight back to Wilson, then a flight to Nanyuki or Loisaba. With the timings of these flights I would have to stay overnight in Nairobi. I didn’t really want to break my safari with a night in Nairobi therefore road was very quickly the only solution. I booked this trip through an agent and they were of the opinion that a transfer by car would be difficult to arrange but everything went smoothly and I wouldn’t hesitate to suggest others to do this route

.

 

After a final bumpy drive through Samburu we reached the entrance gate to the park. The car was already there with the driver sheltering in the shade. It was 8am and it was already hot, damn hot! One of the chefs was coming with us as far as the nearest town. We were going in that direction therefore it was no problem to give him a lift. For the first time in 10 days or so I was in actual car, not an open safari vehicle or minivan, felt a bit weird to be honest. It was a good idea to drive as I was able to see parts of Kenya which I hadn’t seen before. With yet again a difference in colours, flora and temperature as we left the lower level of Samburu and climbed higher. We soon found ourselves going through a much more agricultural landscape with many farms along the way. Not only for food but also flower farms. I had seen a few of these on the drive from Lake Naivasha but you forget just how huge they are. This is the garden of Africa. Everything appeared to be flourishing. No doubt this feeling was heightened after spending the last few days in Samburu.

 

 

We were climbing higher now. Passing signposts for Meru; for another trip. Passing Mount Kenya National Park. The drive was on good tarmac roads, a luxury after bumping over tracks. It took, as expected, 2 hours to get to Nanyuki, the largest town before we headed out to the camp. We stopped there: leg stretching, tea, coffee and to pick up a few supplies that the camp had asked us to collect. We then headed out. It would be about another 2 hours to reach camp. The first part was still on relatively good roads, past the British army camp (they use the area for training), the heavily fenced, secured and guarded Ol Jogi Ranch/Reserve. With fences to stop rhino getting out and people in. The chance you would get inside those gates? Pretty small!

 

End of tarmac! I always get a slight thrill when you do that. You know you are back in safari country We were due to meet someone from camp at the river, which is their usual meeting point. From here on in a normal car wasn’t going to make it. A telephone call had already been made to LWC as we left Nanyuki so they could ensure they were at the meeting point at the same time. It also appeared that the mobile signal stopped the other side of the bridge. Another bonus: nothing quite like being out of the reach of calls, text messages and emails for a few days. A vehicle approached, a creamy beige vehicle, making its way over the bridge. This was the LWC vehicle. We soon transferred supplies, my luggage and myself over and we were off. I would estimate the rest of the trip took about 45 minutes, allowing me to see the Laikipia landscape for the first time. Mugambo kept a look out for wildlife and I already had a few sightings by the time we rounded a corner to see the camp on a hill in front of us. We pulled into camp, waiting to greet me were Steve, Annabelle, Barend and assorted dogs. What a welcome! What would the coming few days bring…….?

[CaroleE]

I arrived in camp just as a group with approx 10 children were leaving. It would have been a good way to experience Laikipia with lots of children. The enthusiasm would be contagious. Definitely a different kind of safari than expected but it would be fun! But they were leaving and for a short period I was the only guest in camp. More guests would be arriving that evening and also the following day so I wouldn’t be rattling around the place for too long by myself. After a quick introduction about the camp from Annabelle and a quick chat about what I wanted to do during my visit it was lunch and then a bit of down time to relax, sit outside my tent and enjoy the view over the Laikipia plateau.

 

The camp itself is simple compared to some but it had everything I needed: comfy bed, hot water (a bit brown as it came direct from the river) and good food. The tents are your standard safari tent with an open air bathroom at the back. Showering out there mid afternoon, cooling down after a hot dusty game drive.walk was bliss:-) Anyway I wasn't here for a spa treatment I was here to see some wildlife!
I was slightly intimidated by Steve Carey, everything I had read about the guy said he has a big reputation and I really didn't know what to expect. I was a bit unsure whether I had enough knowledge of wildlife to be there. My bird knowledge is certainly appalling, getting better, but still apalling. But hey I was there and looking forward to what Steve and Barend where going at throw at me.

First game drive and we were heading out earlier than usual as the wild dogs had been active during the day and they wanted to give me every chance to see them. First sighting immediately outside camp: a herd of elephant ambled slowly accross the track leading up to camp. They made their way in front of the guest tents. There were a couple of young and one of the adults made the point of stopping, giving us a good look, just to make sure we were ok before slowly making her way past us.We were out early so there was time to take some shots. Have no idea what I was doing re settings that afternoon but they aren't the best shots!

 

 

 

But the main aim was to find the wild dogs. One of the reasons I had chosen LWC was the chance to see them so I was going to grab every opportunity I could. Three of the dogs are collared therefore it is possible to track them. But this isn’t easy tracking. The radio collars only get you part of the way. It isn’t just a case of you get a signal, go in that direction and there are dogs. Nope, more work is needed. The signal gives an approximate area where the dog is, sometimes the signal can bounce off hillsides therefore giving a false location. Once there is an idea of where the dog is it is then a case of constantly checking the signal, is the dog moving or still? The rest is up to eyes, ears, knowledge, intuition, and yes, luck. This wasn’t going to be as easy as some might think but this just added to the whole experience.

 

 

I was wuth Barend and Adam this game drive and they already had an idea where the dogs should be so we made our way through the ranch, stopping to have a look at anything that was of interest. On the bridge a Hammerkop was by the river. According to my notebook I also saw Reticulated giraffe, some Grevy's, hares and a family of hyena along the way. Not too shabby a haul for the first hour or so.

 

There was a big dark cloud hovering over Laikipia. It looked like rain. We were still on the hunt for the dogs. The signal was showing that they were in the area of an escarpment so we headed there. On the way up we passed a Martial eagle chomping on something quite close to its nest. I couldn’t see any eggs or chicks but the sighting was much better than the one in Samburu. We reached the point of no return. The big black cloud was almost overhead. Do we go on? I did have a few more days. But you never know what the dogs will do tomorrow. Barend and myself tossed the possibilities back and forth, then thought sod it we are going on. Helped by my exclamation of “Don’t worry about the rain. It is only water”. We closed the roof hatches just in case We headed up to the top of the escarpment. We rounded a corner and we were met by a wall of water. Fortunately we had taken the older vehicle which had roll down plastic windows. But by the time they were unfastened and rolled down, everyone was soaked. What had I just said?! We carried on, reached the top and the rain stopped! Very quickly the cloud departed and we could open the windows and roof hatches and dry out. More importantly I could see the view. Pretty damn spectacular! Now were where the dogs?

 

The antennae came out again, there was a signal. The dogs were close, very close. Everyone stopped talking and moving. What could we hear? Silence. We waited. In the meantime I enjoyed the view of the plateau stretching for miles and miles in front of me. Barend and Adam continued to check for signals. There was one. The dogs were below us just over the edge of the ridge. We couldn’t go any closer as this was one of their dens and we didn’t want to disturb the pups. Occasionally we could hear the odd sound. The dogs were greeting each other. It was to be a waiting game.

 

Another car pulled up behind us. From the Sosian Ranch. Everyone was waiting for a sight of the dogs.We still got the occassional sound, the light was beginning to go, the dogs still hadn’t appeared and if they did show it was going to be difficult to photograph them in this light. But this would be a great sundowner spot. We had a quick discussion, do we stay or do we go? Very quickly decision was made. We were staying. The sun was going down to my left. Would I have a spectacular sunset on my first day in Laikipia?. An almost inaudible signal from the Sosian car. Look to your left. There was something in the dimming light. A striped hyena. Wow! Never seen one of those before. Another new species. No photographic proof as the light was gone and I didn't have my camera readily to hand. Possibly as I *may* have been sat on top of the vehicle by this time, drinking a Tusker The Sosian car soon left. The spectacular sunset hadn’t materialised and very soon after we had to leave as well. The dogs hadn’t appeared. I had heard them, I knew they were there and had been very close.

 

Dogs 1 Carole 0.

 

Back to camp under spotlight, then a glass of red by the fire before dinner. The new guests had arrived. A lovely couple from the US. I liked the set up at LWC. After the afternoon game drive everyone gathered around the fire for a drink and bitings, sharing stories of their day and drives/walks. Dinner was eaten at one long table. Guests along with the LWC people. Other meals had a similar set up. Made for very conducive happy mealtimes. After dinner, plans were made for the following day, wake up calls were arranged with your choice of tea or coffee. The other couple were going on a visit to the Laikipia Predator Project so I had a choice what I wanted to do. I had already wanted to do some walking whilst I was here. Even more so after this wasn’t possible in Samburu. I have done walking safaris/game walks before and they are a great way to get a different perspective and to see species, including the flora, which you wouldn’t ordinarily see from a vehicle. To maximise chances we decided to first have a look for the dogs and then do a walk along the river.

[CaroleE]

Part two, Laikipia. You may want to have your choice of beverage to hand for this one. I tried to keep it short but failed

 

I don’t know what it is but as soon as I am out in the bush, on safari my body clock immediately resets itself. 9 times out of 10 I am awake before dawn normally before the morning tea arrives. They don’t completely close up the sides of the tents at LWC so you have the view through the mesh as you wake up. Now that is a very good idea! After more tea and some muesli and yoghurt, all enjoyed looking at the sunrise over Mount Kenya, it was time for the off.

 

Beautiful morning. On the way to find the dogs plenty of other game was spotted. Beautiful early morning light as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We quickly got a signal from the dogs and this led us to a crossroads. The signal was strong, the dogs were nearby. We stopped as Barend was pretty certain that they would come down the road. Why go through the bush when you have a serviceable road to use We were parked waiting for the dogs and the signal was still strong and it was pretty certain that they were in an area just off the road. But we couldn’t go down the road because there was a no entry sign as the training exercise was happening. Couldn't see anything of the exercise; it appears that the army closes off a larger area than they are using. Health and Safety! The signal was still strong, the dogs were nearby therefore it made sense to wait. Thoughts were that the dogs had caught something big and were eating it and the hope that they would come down the road towards us. Barend had already asked if I wanted to photograph the dogs at ground level. Answer a resounding yes! Plans were made. Joseph was going in the car, Barend was joining me and Joseph was also in charge of taking photographs of us with the dogs. Good thing that guides also carry cameras! Did I need a blanket to lay on? Nice offer but I really didn’t need one. I was prepared to get a bit dusty We waited some more. We could hear the dogs but there was thick bush in between them and us therefore we couldn’t see them. Even standing on the roof of the vehicle didn’t offer a glimpse. So fustrating. Yet again so close but not close enough. After no sightings we decided to try a different location but there was no luck there either. Dogs 2 Carole 0

 

 

At this point I have to make one big criticism. The British army was out on a training exercise on the ranch. I knew they did this for short periods on the ranch but I wasn't informed that this would be happening during the first couple of days of my visit. If I had known this I would have changed my schedule and avoided this period as it did disrupt a couple of game drives. I still haven’t found out who didn’t tell whom: did LWC inform my travel agent who didn’t tell me or did LWC not tell the travel agent? One major piece of advice if booking at LWC is to ask them directly if there is a training exercise. If there is I would change dates. This morning was a good example of not being able to go where we wanted. After our fustrating start to the morning we then weren't allowed back onto the main road up to camp at all as there was a live fire exercise going on. Cue a wait of at least half an hour. Wasted time on a game drive which also restricted the time for the planned river walk. At the time I just got on with my trip as there wasn't anything I could do about it but since I've got back I have realised how big an impact it did have and am pretty annoyed that no-one told me about the exercise. So check and double check before you book!

 

 

We headed down to the river, I was looking forward to stretching my legs. After a quick stop for sunscream application, water supplies and a rifle and the all important safety talk we headed down to the river. Not too many big mammals although there were a couple of hippo and a calf in the water at one point.

 

 

Weaver birds making very untidy nests, dung beetles in their nest, the local bee hides high up in the trees. An Eastern Chanting-Goshawk on the hunt. Lots of prints...was it a buffalo or a cow? Luckily the latter...still haven't met a buffalo on a walk and I would rather it stayed that way! Then Josepeh spotted a huge Leopard Tortoise. Estimate it was a good 60/70 years old. Huge old thing, a definite photo op but I couldn't manage to lift it very far off the ground

 

 

 

It was a good, if somewhat shorter, walk than planned. We eventually met up with the car and headed back for lunch.

 

Lunch was in the Thatched House, on the other side of camp overlooking the river.

 

 

It is very close to a few thatched houses which the ranch owner had built as a start to a camp but never finished. Chatting to Annabelle they are considering finishing them so they have more options if they have family/non family groups and they can split them into different locations. It is a beautiful spot, one of many LWC found for lunch and sundowners during my visit.

 

As I arrived I spotted elephant coming down the hill, probably coming down for a drink. Half way thriugh lunch, call from Barend, put your lunch down we are going to see the elephants. We jumped into a vehicle for a short drive, got as close as possible to the river and then crept down to the water's edge. The elephants were on the opposite bank and had come down for a drink and I was now sat directly opposite them. A pretty big family group. We edged a bit closer to the water's edge. Sitting still, keeping quiet, the eles weren't disturbed so I was able to see as more joined and they shifted places so everyone could have a drink. A young ele took his turn, gave a good head shake and made some noise. Now in my book you can't get anything quite as cute as a young ele! A big old female wandered off from the group. She was a huge old girl, probably wise in her years but even she wasn't concerned about us being there. Apart from the odd click from the shutter, silence and the opportunity to view elephants, unstressed, acting naturally and from very close quarters. Great stuff!

 

 

 

[CaroleE]

Evening game drive. The other guests had arrived. A good friend of Annabelle, his young family and other relatives. They were going out with Steve on a game drive and the American guests were not back from their trip so I had a car to myself again. I lucked out on this trip with the number of times I had private use of a vehicle! Because of the delays and problems earlier in the day I was pleased when it was suggested we head out to the neighbouring Mpala Ranch. No British Army there. We were going to keep an eye out for the dogs but we were really on the look out for bigger game, maybe even some big cats. Some great rocky outcrops on this ranch, perfect leopard country but nothing doing. One was however full of Hyrax. Impala were being skittish so we had a good drive around the area but we couldn't see what was the cause. Overall a pretty quiet game drive, we headed back to the river, sat on some rocks and put the world to rights for a while. I decided it would be a pretty good spot for a house!

 

 

 

 

We headed back to camp, under spotlight. Almost back to camp when Joseph signalled he had spotted something to the left. A female leopard. Oh happy days Good spot Joseph! Barend managed to follow her for a while before she slunk away into deeper bushes and we couldn't follow. It may have been a quiet game drive up to that point but any game drive with a leopard sighting is a very good game drive in my book. With one happy guest in the back, the guys headed back to camp.

 

Then a radio call from Steve, they had spotted the lions which we had heard during the previous night. One good thing about LWC, they don't over use the radio. Sightings weren't constantly radioed in. With the guides and trackers having to rely on their own expertise and knowledge and not on radio calls from a colleague. But this was one time when we got a call. Steve and the other guests weren't that far away so we quickly found them. Spotlights were switched on for short periods, sweeping the bushes for the lions. With two cars the chances were higher that a spotlight would pick out some eye shine. We spotted them, 3 big male lions walking slowly through the bushes. But soon they were out of sight.

 

Then a shout 'Leopard!' Spotlights moved and there was a leopard pretty close to my car. A huge male leopard. Not the same one we had just seen. Wow two leopards on one game drive. Happy face!!

 

 

Spotlights were not being constantly used, so as to not disturb the leopard. Then a sound, crash of leaves and branches, quick movements. Spotlight back on, Joseph found the leopard again. With its jaws round an impala. Leopard kill!!! Not so quiet a game drive now. Just then, a third car arrived. Annabelle with the American guests. They just missed the kill but they could see the aftermath. I attempted photos but sometimes it is better to have a simple point and shoot camera so you are not trying to change settings at critical moments. The photos weren't great so I put my camera down and just enjoyed the experience. The leopard wasn't letting go of the impala, its jaw were still around the impala's throat. The impala managed the odd kick of its legs but very soon there was no more. Dead.

 

 

Another shout 'Leopard'. Another one. Spotlights came on again and there was a female leopard (I'm pretty sure it was the same one we had just seen.) This was a mating pair and as the kill was big the male looked like he was willing to share the impala with his mate. Wow! The female came slinking through the bushes, as only leopards can do, to join her mate. Then came a call 'The lions are coming back!' What the £$"%!! This is just getting ridiculous. The leopards ran, moving very quickly, abandoning the impala. Spotlights moved to the tree line and there was one of the lions. No wonder the leopards moved. Lion vs Leopard, they knew which would come out on top. The lion moved slowly around the area. Barend explained that the leopards hadn't managed to open up the impala before the lion appeared therefore all the lion could smell was leopard. He began to search for the leopards. In the spotlight we managed to catch sight of one leopard moving away in the distance. One was safe, but where was the other? There was a large clump of bushes to our right and we thought the other leopard was hiding there.

 

The lion continued to search but didn't find anything. Another shout 'Lions'. The other two lions came slowly through the darkness and back into sight. They joined in the hunt for the leopard but they all had no luck. But then one found the impala, the other two joined him. The sound of three big powerful lion jaws tearing through the impala, flesh then bones, is going to stay with me. Sounds of argument as the three lions tried to get the best/biggest bit of the impala for themselves. I attempted to take more pictures. Still not good. Camera is put down again. The lions split up, each carrying a bit of impala. Barend decided to follow one, we followed him for a while. Then he disppeared only to be found again by Joseph with the spotlight as he made his way through the bushes. Then we lost him. Spotlight shining in all directions. Nope not there. Quick discussion between Barend and Joseph; likely hiding spot? How about the big clump of bushes over there? We circled it a few times, trying to see a lion but he either wasn't there or was very well hidden. At times I have a way too active imagination and at this moment I was imagining one lion, hiding in the bushes, getting a bit annoyed with us circling round and round as he was trying to eat his impala. Hope he doesn't jump out of the bushes into the car. As I said over active imagination! We had one final sweep of the spotlight but no more signs of this or the other two lions.

 

Bad photo of lion eating the impala

 

Wow, everyone take a breath.

 

To say the atmosphere was buzzing by the time we got back to camp is an understatement. What a night! All the guests were thrilled to have had such a fantastic game drive. Steve and Barend were happy as well. They had delivered an unforgettable experience for their guests. Photos were looked at, lots of did you see that, then exclamations of I cannot believe that this happened. What I found truly astounding is that we saw all his under spotlight. How Joseph managed to find and maintain a view of all that happened I will never know. At some point we had a very delayed dinner and I'm sure everyone went off to dream about lions and leopards. That was going down as my best game drive ever.

Edited June 21, 2015 by CaroleE

[michael-ibk]

Leopard kill, wow - very lucky you! Really enjoy your writing, very vivid, easy to imagine your thrill of being there.

[Seniortraveller]

Wow! I felt a surge of adrenaline just reading this, what an incredible experience.

Looking forward to the next instalment.

Edited June 21, 2015 by Seniortraveller

[CaroleE]

@@michael-ibk

 

Thank you. I was reliving the thrill of that game drive writing that post! Also thank you for liking my writing.

I truly could not believe what was going on....ridiculous number of leopards, lions and to top it all, the kill. My first ever

Totally compensated for the lousy luck with the dogs I had been having.

[CaroleE]

@@Seniortraveller

 

It was truly incredble. I could not believe what was happening during that game drive, I was happy after one leopard then wow!

 

I had to go and calm down after writing the post.....after reliving the thrill of all that happened

 

Next installment will be coming up soon.

[Marks]

I'm hanging on your every word!

 

Hope your luck with the dogs ended up improving, but there's something to be said nonetheless for a quiet sunset with a Tusker in hand. And the amazing leopard/lion event would surely make up for that, anyway!

 

How bizarre that you would encounter a British army training drill while on safari. Might that be a Safaritalk first?

Edited June 22, 2015 by Marks

[CaroleE]

Animals kept us all awake that night. I also kept myself awake as I wasn't feeling great. I was still awake before 5.30 and managed to get up to the mess tent. We had decided the previous that it was going to be a walk that morning. But it became clear very quickly I wasn't feeling well enough for a walk and I decided to err on the side of caution and take it easy and I should then be ok for the afternoon. Although at lunch I heard that Steve had taken the other guests along the river. As I had already walked a bit of that it didn't seem I had missed a lot. Apart from a walk with Steve, but I would try and get one of those on the agenda for the next day. After a quick nap and relaxing in camp I headed out to the lunch spot. Many of you will have already read about this spot in other trip reports, I can only add that it is indeed a very good spot for lunch.

 

A rock just screaming out to be climbed.

Chairs set out under a huge tree for shade and a short walk away a pool by the rocks where you are able to swim. Lots of kids this morning so they were thoroughly enjoying themselves in the water. The bigger kids aka the responsible adults were enjoying throwing themselves off the high rocks into the water. I will try most things, I've even thrown myself off a mountain side attatched to a parachute but nope the rock jumping wasn't going to be happening

Despite only venturing out for lunch the sightings were good: eles by the river on the way there; Augur Buzzard and a Tawny Eagle soaring overhead during lunch. On the way back to camp more eles and two Greater Kudo, Great spot, first on this trip!

 

 

I was ok for the evening game drive, happily as it was one of those beautiful African late afternoons that everyone can wax lyrically about for ever. (So I won't bother with the details apart from it was just great to be out enjoying it.) Not too much game apart from a big heard of buffalo and then by himself this old boy.

 

Steve told me this ol' fella only had one good eye, was a bit deaf and his horns were really worn down. Poor fella but still one of those animals you don't want to meet whilst walking through the bush. We stopped by the river for a sundowner. Headlights were switched off and I marvelled at the night sky. The milky way looked staggering beautiful. With no light pollution you could see hundreds or was it thousands of indivdual stars. Then suddenly a huge shooting star overhead. So big, so clear, so bright I forgot to make a wish.

 

 

The lions were roaring that night. Early morning as I was getting up they started again. Yes, it is a cliche but it is one of the most magical evocative sounds of Africa echoing over the hills and plains. I calculated that this morning was my best last chance to see the dogs. Mornings they are most likely to be out hunting. The other group of guests had seen the dogs yesterday but myself and the American couple hadn't seen them yet. We were on a mission to find them! Even before we had chance to get the antenna out to check for signals and still only a short distance from camp, Steve said what is that under a bush? A leopard. I caught a glance as it went further into bushes. Then we spotted two leopards, the same mating pair as the other evening. They were now both pretty well hidden under thick bushes. Steve then suddenly said 'Listen, mating'. So not only two leopards but two mating leopards! We tried to find them in the bushes but they were well hidden. Very good start to the morning, now with a good strong signal we were off in search of the dogs.

[CaroleE]

I'm hanging on your every word!

 

Hope your luck with the dogs ended up improving, but there's something to be said nonetheless for a quiet sunset with a Tusker in hand. And the amazing leopard/lion event would surely make up for that, anyway!

 

How bizarre that you would encounter a British army training drill while on safari. Might that be a Safaritalk first?

 

I'm a sucker for a quiet sunset with a Tusker as well!

 

The leopard/lion event definitely made up for the lack of dog sightings. A truly incredible experience.

 

I had heard and read on here that the ranch owner lets the British army train on his land for a short period each year. But with what I have read so far, everyone else has managed to avoid it. Not quite the Safaritalk first I was hoping for The army have a big base just outside Nanyuki so I suppose it makes sense to train nearby. It would certainly make it more challenging with all the wildlife about! What I hadn't expected was that I wasn't told about it beforehand. Maybe stupidly/niaively I assumed the camp and/or travel agent would tell you something as important as that.

 

Even more troubling the Brits didn't even offer a fellow Brit a cup of tea as they kept us waiting for the end of the live fire bit. Now that is worth complaining about

[CaroleE]

Another morning looking for dogs. Within a very short time we were back in the area where I almost saw them a couple of mornings ago. Obviously a favourite area for them.

 

Suddenly there were two adult wild dogs. Yes, actual wild dogs! In a clearing just by the roadside.They were demolishing an impala. Demolishing is the only way to describe it. The two dogs were frantically pulling the impala apart and eating it. Fighting over parts of the animal. I had read that they can eat quickly (ok semi-eat as it could be regurgitated for the pups) and this was definitely happening. An adult dog raced off with what looked like the impala's head. Later confirmed when I looked at my photos. What a great sighting we didn't have to move very far or give chase as the dogs were hunting because they had already caught the impala. Very quickly there wasn't much of the impala left.

 

 

 

 

Then my favourite fellow guests turned up again. Yep, the British Army. But this time buzzing us in a helicopter! We were pretty close to the area cordoned off so I imagine they were checking where we going. It started to all get a bit Black Hawk Down or Apocalypse Now as they circled and got lower and lower. At this point I said a few choice Anglo Saxon vernacular phrases, hoping the guy holding the gun sat in the open helicopter door could lip read. Bloody British Army!

 

But I had a dog sighting and a very good one too. Steve soon decided to leave as the helicoptor was not going away and he headed off to a different area. I think he had some sixth sense of where he should go. This man knows these dogs!!

 

We were tracking the dogs constantly and we still had a good signal. Then running through the bush was the pack! With an even bigger surprise, the pups were with them. 'They are moving the pups' I heard Steve say. I could tell by his tone that he was surprised. Adults were running accross the road in front of us, followed by some of the pups. 5 pups. 'Count the dogs' Steve said. He couldn't see the whole pack. There should be 12 pups in total. We were missing the alpha female and the remaining pups. We followed the dogs but still couldn't see the entire pack and all the pups. There was a hope that the pack had split and the alpha female was elsewhere with the other pups or she was trailing this group with them. This is when Steve began a very serious explanation. Something big and definitely bad had to have happened if they were moving the pups who were still only 7/8 weeks old. He further explained that the alpha female remains behind to look after the pups when the other adults go out hunting. Discussions started in the car about hearing the lions last night and again this morning. Had they attacked the den? I didn't have a good feeling this was going to end well. This is when you have one of those sick to your stomach feelings. I really felt for Steve. He has been following these dogs for so many years, has built up an intimate knowledge of each group, its relationships and history and he obviously knew better than us what the possible outcome was going to be.

 

 

Then the mood lightened slightly as the adults, with the pups in tow, started hunting. Things couldn't be very bad could they if they were hunting? The dogs spotted a warthog family and a couple of adults chased the young warthogs into bushes, swiftly followed by an adult warthog. Lots of noise and we feared the worse for the young warthogs. But no, the dogs reappeared empty handed (that should be empty mouthed.) We assumed they didn't want to take on an adult warthog.

 

Then all hell broke loose. An adult dog came into view carrying a dik dik's head. There were dogs running all over the place. I was in the front seat just behind Steve and heard him say. 'They've got something'. And he was off careering through the bush. Bump. Bump. Bump. Swiftly followed by the other vehicle with the other guests. Naturally by this point we were all standing up. Trying to brace ourselves against the bars of the vehicle. Bump. Ow. That'll be a bruise tomorrow. Steve raced to where the dogs where. I estimated it must have been a maximum of 3 minutes until we found them and there was almost nothing left of an impala. More chaos with dogs, adults and pups, milling around the remains of the impala. I think this is when I looked at the other car and saw ridiculous big grins on faces. They would be seeing something very similar on our faces. Wild dogs hunting. Exactly what most people watching this spectacle had hoped to see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The dogs continued fighting for space in order to get a piece of the impala. Frantic is a good description of what I saw. Even the pups were involved, in the thick of it, holding their own. One pup squared up to one of the adults over a bit of impala. A pup with attitude! Another dog appeared with a whole dik dik in its mouth. This was impressive hunting.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve thought the dogs were making their way to an old den site. But he was still a bit mystifiied: if the alpha female and the other pups had been attacked, he would expect traumatised dogs. Who wouldn't be hunting and hunting so well.

 

 

 

A Martial Eagle was spotted. These huge raptors can easily take a pup therefore it was no surprise when the dogs were quickly on the move again. We decided to leave them be. If they had been traumatised it was better to let the adults get the pups quickly and safely to a den. Without the added stress of us following them. I had finally seen wild dogs and seen them hunting in majestic style. But with a tinge of sadness. Where were the alpha female and the other pups?

 

Sadly shortly after I got back from Kenya I heard from Annabelle that they had lost the alpha female and the remaining pups. They think the lions were responsible. On a positive note following Facebook posts and trip reports of later visits it looks like the remaining pups are growing and developing well. I am very curious what will happen with this pack. Will they split? Where will they find another alpha female? There are other packs in the area, maybe from there?

Edited June 23, 2015 by CaroleE

[michael-ibk]

Sorry to hear about the fate of the Alpha. Of course, that´s the way of nature. But one sees these animals, grows attached to them, and then we very much want them to make it, and it´s sad when they don´t.

 

But I´m glad you finally got to see the Dogs - even with pups and on a hunt! You certainly deserved that.

[graceland]

What a thrilling experience at LWC! Between leopards, lions and dogs, you managed it all. I could read all the excitement in your writings.

Just catching up but felt so there with you.

 

Sad about loss of the alpha female and the pups. Quite a shame.

 

You did manage some great shots!

[TonyQ]

I am pleased you got to see the dogs despite the British Army.

Sad about the Alpha female.

[CaroleE]

Sorry to hear about the fate of the Alpha. Of course, that´s the way of nature. But one sees these animals, grows attached to them, and then we very much want them to make it, and it´s sad when they don´t.

 

But I´m glad you finally got to see the Dogs - even with pups and on a hunt! You certainly deserved that.

 

I was so happy to see the dogs at last. Added bonus was the great hunt they took us on. Next time it will have to be photographing dogs from ground level. That should give a very different perspective! Nearer the time I need to check the wild dog situation in SLNP......maybe a chance there.

[CaroleE]

What a thrilling experience at LWC! Between leopards, lions and dogs, you managed it all. I could read all the excitement in your writings.

Just catching up but felt so there with you.

 

Sad about loss of the alpha female and the pups. Quite a shame.

 

You did manage some great shots!

 

It was an extraordinary experience. I really enjoyed writing this trip report, re-reading my notebook.looking at the photos again. It brought all the excitement back!

 

Yes, sad news about the alpha female and the pups but the remaining appear to be doing well and if I remember correctly LWC have two other packs which can be seen so they aren't bereft of dogs.

 

Thank you for the nice comments re the photos. All I can say is thank goodness for continuous shooting mode on cameras!

[CaroleE]

I am pleased you got to see the dogs despite the British Army.

Sad about the Alpha female.

 

Not as pleased as I was

 

Sad news indeed but as I just said to graceland, LWC have other packs in the area and the remaining pups are doing ok, so it wasn't really really bad news.

[CaroleE]

After that very early morning excitement, we had a more relaxed rest of the game drive. We found a kopje which was climbed to scan the area. There was also a group of cattle herders by the kopje so Joseph took the opportunity to get some fresh milk. Still warm when he came back with it. A group of male eles had been spotted from atop the kopje and it looked like they could be about to start an argument. Definitely worth a look! We found two, with one large bull trying to get to another who was hiding in thick bushes. It looked like things could kick off but then the big bull seemed to get a bit bored and nothing much more happened. On the way back to camp we paid a visit to the hyena den where we knew there were pups. I hadn't seen them yet so I was quite keen to see them. But my luck was out, no hyena this morning.

 

 

 

Steve gave us a choice of what we wanted to do before lunch. After a discussion between us, half decided on a kayak trip down the river and the other half went with bird watching, ele watching with a bit of fishing thrown in. The ele watching, my request, didn’t happen as another guest with more clout than me (relative of Annabelle's friend) wanted the fishing to be done first. Then naturally there was no time left over for anything else. Not completely happy with that decision but I eventually went with the flow and ended up fishing for the first time in my life and catching the two biggest fish of the day. Much to the consternation of the serious fishermen I was with
There was also a choice in the late afternoon. This is another prime example of the flexibility at LWC. A walk or a game drive. Steve wanted to do the river walk again (question to those who have also visited. Do they do any other walks other than down by the river?) so I went with the game drive. Another beautiful late afternoon in Laikipia. Big herds of eles in fab light. Then the biggest group of Eland I have ever seen in the distance. We inched closer trying not to make too much noise. More and more Eland came walking accross in front of us. Then they started jumping or is it springing. This I had never seen before. Great sighting!. We headed down to the river to try and spot buffalo for another guest. Unfortunately none to be seen but we did find a group of reticulated giraffes. We stopped a few times,.I was mainly looking in awe at the landscape. All was quiet, gentle ripples of water, and dappled last rays of sun on the river. No time for sundowners as this was being combined with dinner out in the bush. Dinner was round the fire, Barend put his best braai skills to use and I sat under another clear starlit sky enjoying my last evening in Kenya, eating steak and drinking red wine.

 

 

 

 

The next morning myself and the American couple were on the midday Nairobi flight so there was still time for a game drive of a couple of hours before we left. I don’t think I’ve ever had this on departure morning. Normally you just have breakfast and leave. Another bonus point for LWC. We decided to concentrate on birds. However we did have time to stop for eles, Grevys and some hippo who were busy popping their heads out of the water, then disappearing again. As we waited for them to reappear a head popped up near the far bank, a baby hippo! Last chance to spot the klipspringers but no luck but a few hyrax on a rocky kopje.

Fantastic bird sightings, African Hawk Eagle, Vultures (decison on the day Rippell's Griffon) and Marabou Storks. The latter two a first for LWC as they hadn’t been seen on the ranch before. My first two Pied Kingfishers of the entire trip, Hilldebrand starling, weaver birds, Go-away bird, Great Egret. The species kept coming, even on my last game drive!

After a quick breakfast, it was with a sad and heavy heart that I had to leave. My safari time in Kenya was over. Steve drove us part of the way. We were then picked up by one of their regular drivers and taken to Nanyuki airstrip. Big bonus on the way out a hyena pup ran accross the road, then another closely followed by one of their parents. A fleeting glimpse but still great to get to see them. Then the eagle eyes of Steve spotted something else. Way off in the distance there was a blurry figure. Steve said it was a Laikipia/Jackson's hartebeest. I believe him as I really couldn’t see it that clearly. I’m still not too sure I should even count it as a sighting! Laikipia had had a couple of parting gifts for me.

 

 

 

 

Yes, there were issues and problems but these were far outweighed by the positives. Overall my time in Laikipia was great. I heartily recommend LWC as a camp. Both hospitality and guiding are excellent, it is in a beautiful location and the wildlife was superb. With no fixed schedule and the camp being ultra flexible this led to a much more unpredictable time. Personally I found all these matched what I want in a camp and a safari. I would defintely return, something I don't say about many places. I have had some spectacular one-off experiences during other trips but this visit to Kenya was the best wildlife trip to date. It just got better and better as I went from location to location. I was lucky enough to see so much, with so many new species.

[Marks]

So glad your patience paid off in spades with the dogs! I can't believe the helicopter essentially forced you away - but clearly your sighting only got better and better, and I can only assume that the animals must be accustomed to the occasional noise.

This has been a great thread to read. I hope there will be many more!