Majestic Moorlands, Peaks and Falls - a Return to the Aberdares

[Atravelynn]

@@Seniortraveller

 

I´m no expert on Kenya weather patterns (which are unpredictable anyway) but I think May would be ok. From what I was told weather conditions are only getting a bit less favourable by June when Central Kenya can be very foggy. I´m sure Sandai would be a very nice combination to Laikipia Wilderness Camp, would certainly give you diversity, and it´s pretty close.

Fog in June in Central Kenya, thanks for that point!

[Atravelynn]

2015 is Year of the Rhino for you. How wonderful to see that tiny calf--tiny by rhino standards. The shot where the mother and calf are set off by starling bookends has a magical quality to it. Photographing the bee-eaters may be a pain but you caught them nicely perching and in flight. What a flash of color. Also flashing his color was the vervet and you got him/them. The impala all showing their McDonald's signs always remind me of a school of striped fish. That rear pose is quite picturesque for its uniformity.

 

I was relieved to read about your accident. Very minor fortunately.

 

Cute double curly q's on the rhinos.

 

You really caught the mossy tresses. Reminds me of Rupunzel. The Jackson's Francolin family posed perfectly.

 

That buffalo was really showing his dominance and agression in the "pissing contest." That's one way the communicate that sentiment, I was told. It was raining all over!

 

Looking forward to entering the moorlands with you.

Edited June 20, 2015 by Atravelynn

[Big_Dog]

Fantastic stuff, from a little visited area of Kenya! The amount of babies - the shy impala fawn, waterbuck creche and best-of-all rhino calf - are wonderful.
Also love the big, red hyaena!

[SafariChick]

Continuing to enjoy this great report. The tiny rhino baby is absolutely adorable!

[CaroleE]

@@michael-ibk

 

Your mystery bird intrigued me. Flipping through my bird book I initially thought it could a seasonal/hybrid Yellow Wagtail but my best (uneducated) guess is an adult female Purple-throated Cuckoo-shrike. The female of which isn't purple-throated but looks remarkably similar to your mystery bird.

[michael-ibk]

@@CaroleE

Many thanks, Female Purple-Throated Cuckoo-Shrike looks like a pretty good match indeed.

Thanks, @@SafariChick!

@@Big_Dog

Stay tuned ... more Hyenas coming up especially for you. You would like the Aberdares, the Spotteds are pretty much the alpha predators in the Salient area, and they are easy to see.

 

@@Atravelynn

 

Year of the Rhino indeed, that was exactly my thought after our Solio day. Must be one of the best places in Eastern Africa for them, I think. (Could be a good alternative to the pretty costly Lewa for @@COSMIC RHINO , btw) I remember your similar Buffalo experience in the Aberdares, but yours was threat-defecating as I recall.

 

@@pault

 

Yes, we saw more rain.

 

@@xelas

 

I have ISO set on automatic, and yes, it was pretty high generally. 1000+.

[michael-ibk]

We had reached the moorlands, but unfortunately it was raining so heavily now that we had to even close the windows. Animals were hiding anyway, so not too much was around. A few Bushbucks and Duikers, but all very shy and quickly gone.

This Black-Necked Heron didn´t mind the weather though and was hunting very concentratedly.

 

 

And this Mountain Buzzard had obviously decided to simply sit out the rain.

 

 

An Alpine Chat, the most common bird up here. They are quite bold and don´t mind human presence.

 

The Karuru Falls, the most spectacular ones of the three major watersfalls of the moorlands, were off limits in this weather. The road there is pretty difficult, and getting down to the falls wouldn´t exactly be a walk in the park with these extremely slippery conditions.

 

But we were happy enough to see the Magura Falls for which we hadn´t had enough time last September. Despite the heavy rain, it felt wonderful standing there, enjoying the silence of the highlands and their perfect, soothing solitude.

 

 

That´s a grotto (Queen´s cave) at the feet of the falls, and it´s possible to go there. But not today.

 

 

We returned to Chania Falls. These are very accessible, and here we met the only other visitors this day, a group of Kenyan students on a roadtrip.

 

The Chania River is one of many, many creeks and rivers in the Aberdares who all converge to become the might Tana river, Kenya´s longest river.

 

 

Chania Falls:

 

 

The rain had decreased enough so we could have our lunch in the open. We had home-made Pizza, yummi! For all of ten minutes, then the rain was getting heavier again and we quite hastily packed our stuff together again.

 

To the delight of this Alpine Chat who was getting ready for the crumbs.

 

[michael-ibk]

The moorlands of the Aberdares, with their very distinct, almost "Scottish" looks, are stretching between the two hightest peaks of the park the Ol Donyo Lesatima (4001m) and the Kinangop (3906m). "Aberdares" is quite a Scottish-sounding name, and indeed- the park is named after Lord Henry Bruce Aberdare, a former president of the Royal Geographic Society. But I´ll admit to cheating here, actually the Aberdares come from the very South of England. But at least Joseph Thomson, who gave the area its name, was a proper Scotsman. (He´s the guy the Tommies are named after, btw.)



It´s a vast area, with a wonderful rugged atmosphere to it. But of course this is not "proper" safari land, so expectations should be held in check. Animals are there, but not in big numbers. Waterbucks are seen quite regularly, and Bushbucks are jumping out of sight often. There´s also a decent chance for Serval, and the area is known for its melanistic ones. Spotted and even Striped Hyena are also seen from time to time up here. Even Elephants and Buffaloes sometimes migrate up to the higher regions. In the last few years a population of Wild Dogs has been seen more and more often, apparently they are multiplying and doing very well. But not easy to see any of those, there are only very few roads. Next time I´d like to stay up here on the highlands (in the KWS´s Fishing Lodge) and try seriously for Serval and Wild Dogs - and hope for a bit of better weather.

 

Photo trys with Bushbuck usually resulted in this:

But one in a while, one would have mercy on us.

 

 

Some kind of Hypericum.

 

 

We had a sighting of a Mountain Reedbuck which made me happy - new mammal for me!

 

Scanning with binocs helps, this revealed some unexpected animals up here - Elands.

 

 

Bush Duikers are also quite common on the moorlands, but very shy and skittish.

 

This one looks quite different, but it can only be another Bush Duiker, at least I really have no idea what else it could be?

 

After a while we left Africa´s Scotland behind again and entered the Bamboo area, starting the long way down. It´s 47 km from the gate to up here.

 

[michael-ibk]

Bushbucks were our constant companions on the way down. And it was a constant battle of speed between us - would they jump away faster, or would we get the camera ready faster?

 

 

Another Mountain Buzzard. Don´t remember them at all from our last visit, but this day we saw a lot of them.

 

Halfway we had a lovely sighting of a troop of Syke´s Monkeys and spent a long time watching these cute little fellas happily munching away.

 

 

They are also known as White-Throated or Samango monkey. Kingdon apparently regards them as a subspecies of the Gentle Monkey.

 

Some of them came out of the bamboo thickish just a few metres above us. Here the steep terrain of the Aberdares really helped, made for a very satisfying angle.

 

They seemed very habituated and didn´t mind us at all, even the clicking shutter noise didn´t seem to really disturb them.

 

 

Mmmmh, bamboo dinner!

 

 

Honoring World Yoga day here:

 

[michael-ibk]

Down in the Salient we were in Buffalo kingdom again - they are everywhere!

 

 

We were very excited to see our first elephants of the trip. There´s a good population in the Aberdares, but they are not easy to see. It´s uncanny how quickly they just turn invisible when they leave the road.

 

 

And they are not very trusting, it´s not too easy getting close to them, we approached very slowly and carefully, but still they retreated when we were still quite far away. We heard their infra-deep grumbling but couldn´t see them. I just love that sound, and it really goes through your body.

 

 

The Aberdares are now completely fenced, to avoid conflicts with humans - as it is such a fertile area Central Kenya is densely populated, and villagers have always been clamoring for fencing the animals in. The last part has been completed just last year, Paul told us.

 

 

 

There´s a well-known Elephant corridor between Mt. Kenya and Laikipia, allowing the giants to use their ancient migration routes. A success, radio tracking showed that they are accepted, even an underway at the highway. More about that here:

 

https://cmsdata.iucn.org/downloads/parks_19_1_nyaligu___weeks.pdf

 

 

Apparently a few openings have been left open at the Aberdares, so the Elephants can access that corridor. Not quite sure how this works and where those points are, and there´s not too much found online about it.

 

http://newsroom.wildlifedirect.org/2014/03/24/nyeri-county-to-establish-elephant-corridor-between-mt-kenya-and-aberdare-kenya/

 

 

This waterbuck was apparently friends with warthogs. He was a bit of a weird one, even after all his pals had ran off he still stayed around, even when we were only metres away from him.

 

 

 

 

 

One of my very few pics of a Hare. Plenty of them around, also at the farm, but they never stay around. Probably a Cape Hare? When trying to identify this one I got the impression that not much is known about Lagomorph species in Africa.

 

 

And Hyenas again, a sizeable clan spread out. We counted more than 10. Down here in the Salient they are extremely habituated, they have grown up next to the road and are therefore used to the cars.

 

 

They are pretty much "Boss" here. Leopards are around (and are seen not that rarely), but they avoid the Hyenas. The Wild Dogs stay farther up. And lions - are pretty much gone. Though the Aberdares claim to be a "Big Five" park that´s only true in theory. Black Rhino sightings are exceedingly rare, and the lions have been taken out. Culled or translocated, not quite sure. They exerted too much of a strain for the unique species of Giant Forest Hog and Bongo, and so the decision was made that they had to go. Could be that there are a few left, sometimes tracks are found, but they are never seen. Best chances would be in the very North of the Aberdares (the only part of the park where one can find Zebras as well), in an area not accessible from the Nyeri side.

 

 

 

This one was very curious about us.

 

 

And we finally had quite good photo ops for Mrs. and Mr. Bushbuck.

 

 

 

When we returned home the hot shower was the most wonderful thing in our wet and soggy state.

[Big_Dog]

I look forward to it! The Aberdares look fascinating in that they buck the more stereotypical safari for misty, northern-looking moorlands. I'm away for the next months in KZN, so in late July expect a storm of 'Big Dog likes a post you made in...'

Awesome hyaena shots in the latest post too. Fantastic red coats. I would like the Aberdares very much indeed...

Edited June 21, 2015 by Big_Dog

[jeremie]

 

 

 

This is a fantastic picture of a touraco!

[xelas]

@@michael-ibk

 

I have a feeling that our Mittel-Europa ST members meeting is not far away! The two portraits of Syke's Monkeys, oh boy, that would make my day. And mentioning Scotland always stir interest with Zvezda.

 

The colours of green are so perfect; that rain gave you more that it had taken away, from a photographer point of view.

[Patty]

Love the Syke's series!

[CaroleE]

@michael-ibk

 

The Syke's monkeys are very cute and photogenic. Great series there.

Also great shots of the hyena.

Am liking the Aberdares more and more with every one of your posts!

[Atravelynn]

The half hidden hare is a perfect setting. The Sykes are so wonderfully expressive. Gentle monkey is an appropriate name.

 

The abundance and quality of your sightings, even in rainy conditions, shows what an extended period of time in one place can reveal.

Edited June 22, 2015 by Atravelynn

[Treepol]

@@michael-ibk your photos capture the true wildness of the high Aberdares - what a strange landscape to find in East Africa. The Mountain Buzzard looks miserable in the rain, the damp alpine chat certainly earnt a few lunch crumbs and your Sykes photos - wow! I thought they looked a bit like lemurs with their white ruff.

[Kitsafari]

I'm late catching up. but as you say an "impossibly" cute rhino baby! and so generous of mummy to show the baby off for so long.

 

the syke's monkey series are wonderful. such gentle eyes and attractive faces. beautiful portraits - you did so well to show their beauty.

 

so sorry the weather didn't hold up for your aberdares trip and relieved that the accident was a minor one.

 

looking forward to more!

[pault]

Loved the weekend update. Aberdare National Park delivered lots of good things for you - much more than just the "rain" you promised.

[michael-ibk]

Many thanks, @@Big_Dog , @@xelas , @@jeremie , @@Patty , @@CaroleE , @@Atravelynn , @@Treepol , @@Kitsafari and @@pault .

 

Have a wonderful trip to KZN, Big Dog, and don´t forget to report back! :-)

 

Xelas, in summer I´m usually in Carinthia a couple of times, so Slovenia is not too far off for me.

 

Of course I would have preferred better weather, since it would have allowed us to open up the car and generally have a better look around. But in a way the mist and rain were very fitting for a place like the highlands, and somehow contributed to the kind of mystic flaire up there. Well, the Aberdares and rain were not done with us yet, it would be weather vs. us hiking Ol Donya Lesatima two days later. Oh, and one car accident vs. hiking Ol Donyo Lesatime. Let´s see who bested whom.

 

The Syke´s Monkeys were a highlight indeed, we´ve seen them before, but this time they really posed perfectly for us.

[twaffle]

Lovely photos despite the weather. I'll return to the Aberdares one day soon, very therapeutic for the soul.

[TonyQ]

@@michael-ibk

The Sykes Monkey photos are great - a really beautiful monkey (and Gentle Monkey is such a wonderful name!)

You do actually show us a goood variety of wildlife despite the rain - it does look like a really interesting place.

[Marks]

The camel certainly gave me pause, as I imagine it did you. Not something I expected to see in this report!

 

Both groups of rhinos are almost excessively photogenic. The first calf is simply adorable, and the second mother has a horn that rivals the male from the first group.

 

The silvery-cheeked hornbills have something of an exotic appearance, especially in that rain-shrouded environment. The waterfall is especially stunning for similar reasons.

 

The red coloration of the hyena and elephant gives them that extra something (not that either species needs it to stand out!).

[dlo]

Brilliant photos especially the hyenas and sykes monkeys. Thanks for this report I am definitely thinking Kenya next year.

[michael-ibk]

Many thanks, @@twaffle , @@TonyQ , @@Marks and @@dlo .

We had decided already at the time of booking that we wanted to spend at least one full day at Sandai farm itself without "doing anything", just enjoying the place. Gonna steal Twaffle´s expression here - it´s therapeutic for the soul.



Petra Allmendinger has created a gem here, an oasis of tranquility, the very opposite of "touristy". Said it before but have to reiterate: At Sandai you don´t even feel like a tourist, it´s much more like visiting with old friends and enjoying a very intimate, familiar atmosphere. You just "belong".



There are four bungalows next to the house where guests normally stay, although there are some rooms in the main house as well. Very cosy and comfortable, and like the whole farm very colourful. Petra tries to be very "green", lights are mostly solar-powered, and water is saved and reused as efficiently as possible. Generator is on in the evening hours, so charging camera batteries is no problem at all.



I always resolve to take pictures of a room when it´s still untouched, and would therefore be representable - but I always, always fail.

Lots of different plants everywhere, and so of course Sunbirds just love the place.



Bronze Sunbird



Some kind of Opuntia



The main house, with Lady Roxy standing guard. Or sitting guard.



The dinner table. It´s always communal dining, with Petra and sometimes also her daughter present. Dinner is not served in the traditional sense, all kind of tasty stuff is put on the table in big, steamy pots and pans, and everyone helps himself and others.







Sandai is not only therapeutic for the soul, but for budget as well: EUR 85,-- pP for the room, EUR 245,-- for private use of safari jeep per day and car, EUR 170,-- for the car to or from Nairoibi airport, add the prices for national parks (from USD 65,-- to USD 95,--), and you have a safari with a private guide for about USD 300,-- per day, even (markedly) less if you don´t go out every day or share the car with others. (Drinks are extra.)



The breakfast and lunch table. Lots of fresh fruits for breakfast, eggs as ordered, bread, home-made butter and jam, cheese, peanut butter, honey and much more. (Though I´m probably guilty of having reduced the breakfast offer for future guests, since I pointed out that Nutella is produced with palm oil, and Petra agreed that it has to go then. Sorry, all Nutella lovers, but palm oil is evil. )

Even when doing nothing you can still do quite a lot on the farm. We decided to just explore the farm area. I forgot the exact dimensions, but it´s a big place, many, many hectares, with quite a lot of different habitats, open meadows, bushland and wood. It´s safe to walk around on your own, no lions, and buffaloes have been taken out as well. From time to time, Wild Dogs are around, two packs roam the general area - they killed one of Petra´s dogs last year.

Not completely by choice, Sandai is completely fenced now since neighbours on all sides have erected fences.



Charly, Roxy and Lukas decided to come along, they love guests since they always see a chance of getting a good walk with them, and often they do. So we were well protected.



Little Charly. Not so little anymore, he´s grown a lot since we first saw him last September.



There´s a little pond nearby where we disturbed these Egyptian Geese.



"I want to be a crocodile!"



Lukas and Roxy felt the heat as well.







A colony of Speke´s Weavers has made the pond their home.





We were surprised to find Eland!