Self-Drive Safari in Botswana, South Africa, and Namibiab

[ZaminOz]

Great trip report @@KaliCA

You seem to have had some fantastic sightings!

[KaliCA]

Hi Marks, glad to hear that you are enjoying some of our pics. Thanks for the kudos and reading along. I guess we were lucky with our sightings and especially proud of the cats we found without help from guides!

Thanks for reading along.

[KaliCA]

Hi ZamonOZ, glad to have you along and thanks for the compliment!

[KaliCA]

Post 15

 

Namutoni, and Namutoni to Halali, Saturday, October 11

 

We made a quick morning tea and were off to see what Namutoni had to offer. The sightings book mentioned 15 lion on a giraffe kill behind the fort. So this is what was happening at night behind the waterhole. Mystery solved.

We easily found the amazing kill sighting along the gravel road and we were the second car there. In the golden morning light, we watched big and small lions tearing into the ribs and belly cavities eating away at the giraffe. The neck and head were still intact. After a while, some of the lion started walking away towards the waterhole and we made a decision to go back to camp and see them drinking.

However, by the time we got there, only one lion was left drinking and the others had already walked back to the carcass. So back to the kill we went as well. Soon, the lions had had their fill and started walking off, finding shady spots. Just as soon, about 10 jackals eagerly moved in on the carcass and started tearing away on the giraffe in a feeding frenzy. We soon left them to their meal.

At Groot Otevi, we spotted two lions lying and resting above the pretty waterhole in the tall grass. A Steenbock came to drink and it must have drunk for 20 minutes without seeing the lions. There was some low crouching and tail swishing by one lion, but no action to chase the Steenbock.

So we went back to camp to have our BF and did some more souvenir shopping in the stores at the fort and checked the waterhole again.

Then it was back to Groot Otevi to check on the lions. They were under different trees and then a zebra came to drink. No action again. The lions moved under different trees to rest, all the while keeping an eye on the waterhole.

After a while, a small herd of ellies appeared coming off the hillside in a hurry and the lions got scared and ran off out of sight. Now it was apparent that there were not two, but three lions that moved away in a hurry. Who is the king of the jungle here?

The ellies relished their drinking time, then made their way up the hill where we were parked. One lion came back and then a kudu came down closer, but barked loudly as a warning and all his herd mates ran off. Next was a giraffe who clearly noticed the lion, but did not advance. It was fun watching the interactions between all the different animals this morning.

Back at Klein Okvei, we observed 7 giraffes drinking, a herd of kudu drinking, as well as warthogs and zebra. Nice.

Koinachs WH had reeds in the water and 4 bull ellies were busy doing their ellie things as well as warthog, zebra, springbock and oryx

At Chudop WH we may have hit the jackpot yet. There were 11 spotted hyena scattered around the waterhole,some in the water standing alert, and others lying around the waterhole in the sandy depressions. A huge cluster of what must have been hundreds of animals, kudu, giraffe, zebra, Impala, warthogs, were all milling around in various stages of agitation, not daring to go drink. One strong black male hyena kept diving close to the reeds, then coming up, shaking his head. Pretty soon it became evident that he came up with chunks of meat in his mouth. Then we noticed something black and white floating, and we recognized it as a zebra carcass; the hooves became visible later.

So all the time we were watching, the hyena were really there for a meal, and not just having a spa day on a hot day, like we assumed. The things we learn from watching wildlife!

At Goas WH, there were drinking giraffes and by scanning around with my excellent binos, I found a lioness sitting up on the second level of the area. When we drove up to see her better, she was reflecting in the water, but there was no other movement.

After a long day with lots of excitement, we pulled into Halali campsite just after 6:30 and found our friends all set up next to the road, the bathroom and the bar. Way to go for a noisy spot!

We cooked just for ourselves, as they went to the buffet restaurant. We hurried with cooking so we could go to check out the lit-up Morinda WH at night. There was quite some activity. We saw a black rhino, a breeding herd of ellies, a hyena, a jackal, two more black rhino, and one male lion and two lionesses chased away by ellies.

A German lady kept saying to all who wanted to hear,"Da ist der Löwe!"

Very nice sightings at Halali waterhole.

Predictably, the night was noisy, with a couple fighting loudly at the bar, as well a lots of BR traffic. We vowed to move away from that busy spot for our second night.

 

Halali, Sunday, October 12

 

We drove off with the golden light, but other than hartebeest did not find any game of note till after 10 am. A bad tip about lion by Salvadora and two other waterholes yielded nothing but high hopes. Was it pay-back day for yesterday's jackpot?At Charitsaub, where we had seen two males last trip, we watched a herd of zebra, wildebeest, and springbock come down to drink and it was a great sighting with some action, as the skittish zebra got spooked by the wind and galloped away, muddy water splashing.

At Riedfontein, there was another huge herd of zebra coming in to drink. Aren't zebra the most photogenic in the animal world? Stripes are always in vogue.

 

We had BF by a toilet area all of which are truly disgusting places in all of Etosha. It should be a national embarrassment and the park authorities should be ashamed to have such places for tourists. Many tourists prefer to use the bush toilet rather than the truly revolting pits, and as a consequence there was toilet paper flying all over the place. And the smell.... Well.

For lunch we headed back to Halali campsite and ate under a lilac tree frequented by busy bees.

We went back to Goas WH and discovered 4 lions sleeping under a tree by the outflow of water from the waterhole, while two others slept under a tree further down the little stream. Later on, we found out that there was a male and another female resting on the upper level and sure enough, we saw them clearly. The only action, though was some sitting up and changing positions before it was time to go back to Halali. Just before the gate, a park ranger had stopped by a tree, and there were two more lions resting there. Wow, Etosha is certainly hopping with lions during the dry season!

At Halali, our friends had chosen a much better spot this time. We had dinner and a shower before taking the walk back to the rocky area where the waterhole is located. It looked like rain and I felt a few drops. Our friends went to eat at the restaurant but never came to the WH as they feared for rain.

There was lightning in the back of the WH, quite dramatic, and it threatened to rain, but luckily, held off.

The night sightings started out with probably the same herd of ellies, and we could hear all their rumblings and slurping. Then a rather old looking male lion with a collar appeared, who came into the light three separate times. The highlight of the theater certainly came when a rhino chased a leopard away and later the same leopard came to drink, facing the seated spectators. Great show and we were so happy to have seen another leopard drinking. This would be leopard number three. The first one was at Nossob WH, the second one at Moremi Bodumatau in a sausage tree, but you already knew that!

We had a good night at Halali campsite and it was very quiet and the rain did not materialize after all.

[KaliCA]

[Treepol]

@@KaliCA great TR, please keep your stories coming.

 

I am amazed at the richness of your sightings at Halali - I have been there on 2 trips and both times seen nothing but a couple of impala and a few guinea fowl. I had decided that this waterhole was 'broken', however your wealth of sightings, rhino, lion,leopard prove otherwise! I am beginning to think that I am jinxed at Etosha camp waterholes as sightings at Namutoni have also been rather meagre. In 3 visits I have seen eles, a wounded kudu and a couple of Egyptian Geese, nothing as exciting as lions on a kill and later drinking at the waterhole.

Edited July 8, 2015 by Treepol

[KaliCA]

Really? And here we are thinking that it's normal to see what we saw. Was it in September or October?

My sister once went to Etosha in March and never saw ellies.

So I guess we have been lucky. Also, we are relentless and stay out there AM to PM and waterhole at night.

Pics to come in a minute.

[KaliCA]

[KaliCA]

Hyena spa day sequence. Not!

[KaliCA]

[KaliCA]

Halali Waterhole. Mute theater.

[Marks]

Your words (and photos) transport me...

I wonder how the zebra carcass wound up in the water (whether it were killed or moved there). The hyenas look somewhat less than elegant while feeding from it in that circumstance!

[KaliCA]

@@Marks. Happy to learn that you are enjoying my trip report. I had my doubts if anyone would really care about a stranger's words and pics. However, you confirm that going on safari with a fellow enthusiast is fun for you as well. So thank you.

 

 

Post 16

 

Lion red letter day

 

Halali to Okaukuejo, Monday, October 13

 

We left Halali early again, albeit under a dark sky and diffused light with a few raindrops falling. Very dramatic atmosphere. We were rewarded with a female leopard sitting in a leaf-less tree very close to the road. The girl in the car ahead of us had spotted it. It was clearly visible as a silhouette and maybe we would have seen it on our own as well. I always wonder about that.

Photography was a challenge as we were facing the rising sun. The leopard decided to leave its perch, came off the tree, marked the grass, then was weaving in and out of shrubs toward its hiding place, a culvert. We stayed a few more minutes, but it did not reappear. It was a big chore to keep up with the walking leopard, taking pics and driving in reverse. Good job, DH.

The other morning sightings were a rhino in the bush, (I was reminded about a friend's saying, (hi mfuwe) "One rhino in the bush equals five at the waterhole") a giraffe with its toy baby, and a baby hartebeest with the umbilical cord still attached.

The road to Aus was flooded in many places and that area must have gotten a lot of rain last night. Some impala were waiting to drink from a big puddle in the road. Some places, the water reached up to our running board.

A non 4x4 RV type vehicle was stuck and had sunk deep into the mud. We offered to pull him out, but the man stranded there did not believe we would be strong enough, so we left.

At Aus WH we watched a giraffe drinking and then we heard of lions at Olifantsbad from other visitors. It always pays to talk to others while sitting at a waterhole.

And sure enough, at Olifantsbad WH we spotted the lions easily, as one lioness was sitting up by the waterhole, while 5 others were sprawled out in the shade under a solar panel. Not the most natural way to see lion, but much better than not seeing any at all.

We then decided to have a late lunch at the adjacent picnic area ( another disgusting toilet area, really) and it was bad timing...again. Third time we know of now. While we were eating, a small herd of ellies had come to the waterhole chasing the resident lions off into the bushes. We had missed that sight, but had heard the racket and trumpeting.

 

We then made our way to Gemsbock vlei where there was some ellie action. Neubrownie WH showed us only one ellie painted grey and so we drove on, past the airport up to Okandeka WH as far north as one can go. There we saw one female lion at the edge of the pan and a beautiful male eventually joined her out there in the white expanse. There was quite a lot of game around them, all flocking to the little stream that flows out into the pan. Then we had to head back to make Okaukuejo gate time by sunset.

In order to save time cooking and spend more time at the lit-up waterhole. we had a cold dinner. Our friends then informed us that they would be leaving the next day to spend the rest of their time in Namibia on the coast and other places. According to them, they had seen enough wildlife and " we like to do other things..." I reminded them that they would forfeit our prepaid chalet at Dolomite, Brandberg, and Okaukuejo camping, but they did not mind giving it up.

So we went to the WH and they joined us later for a while. We watched many giraffe drink at the lit-up WH and then there were 7 black rhino that came to drink, one with a teeny baby and another one with a half-grown baby and we observed both of them nursing. Cute.

The waterhole at Okaukuejo is a fantastic place to see a lot of different wildlife and is my favorite waterhole in Etosha. Yes, it is busy with many tourists, but it has delivered many great sightings for us so far.

Camping there is not much of an adventure, as the campsites are rather close together, the bathrooms are far and few, and there are many groups that tend to be noisy and move tourists around in huge overland trucks. So we have to take the good with the bad and make the best of it, as is so often the case in life.

 

Okaukuejo, Tuesday, October 14

 

We made morning coffee and tea, said good-bye to our friends and I insisted that they take the SAT phone with them. I wanted to be sure that they would have some means of communication, just in case. They did not share where they were going and did not ask us for advice. We were a little taken aback by that, but got over it quickly, as there was wildlife to enjoy.

We visited the Okaukuejo WH again in order to enjoy a show while having coffee. And we did get a spectacle. There were three youngish male lions coming down to drink which took quite a while, as they were lapping tons of water. Then they walked one by one to a shady spot above the waterhole. After a while, one of the males made his way down to the WH, started crouching behind a dead tree, and got ready to run. There was a lone springbock on our side of the waterhole and the young lion had set his eyes on this target. His golden mane was flying and he was off at great speed, but had to veer off at the last moment and lost catching the springbock, because an elephant was in his way and he had miscalculated. It was great to finally see a lion run rather than laying around, and see an albeit failed, hunting attempt.

We then got a hot tip from a game driver where to find "lions without collars" (it kind of ruins the picture if lions are wearing tracking collars, as those three sub-adults did) and we were off toward Anderson gate. We found them easily because we were given good directions.

There were two handsome males that looked to be brothers, (here I go again, but they looked very very similar in their faces) and four females sprawled out under two trees. Then there was some movement because of lack of shade and we got a good look at all of them. One lioness was elderly and spotted a white, blind eye. Their bellies were huge and their muzzles bloody. After two hours with them, we left them snoozing in the midday heat.

At this point, my Etosha lion count was up to 50. So incredible lucky to have seen 50 lions in Etosha alone

The waterhole at Anderson, did not reveal any cubs as we were told. So, we drove back up north to Neubrownie WH and watched 8 ellies painting themselves grey and doing spa time. To our great surprise, a rhino joined them and after laying in the white mud, walked out two-toned and made his way to the water to drink. He was patiently waiting his turn, and the three ellies there let it drink without incident. I swear ellies are better at sharing than many humans.

Later, we went back to have lunch at our campsite. Of course we had to check the Okaukuu WH again, and found the three blondie lions resting under a bush. We made two English men really happy by pointing out to them where the lions were hiding.

Then it was back to Olifantsbad WH where we watched 5 lions under trees and we assumed they were the same ones we had seen under the solar panel.

Then a wrong turn took us back to camp from where we decided to go back down to Anderson Gate to see if we could see the morning lions one more time. I proposed to check the waterhole first; it's called Ombika. A few cars were parked there because everyone was looking at two lionesses with 10 cubs of three different ages, three of them no bigger than a house cat. We watched them play and interact, plop down, walk around .... Too cute.

At one point, they all started walking toward us and then some of them started to run away from the two female nursery guards.

It soon became apparent why all the cubs were running in the same direction:

Out of the corner of my eyes, I saw a different lioness walk in to greet some cubs and she was followed by three more lionesses who greeted cubs. One of them a lioness with a white blind eye. Finally, two males strutted in and they looked like brothers; their bellies sagging and their muzzles bloody.

Hmmmmmmm.....I'm sure you get it by now?

It became evident to us that those were the same 6 lions we had left lying under trees at noon. Both DH and I got very emotional and we had tears in our eyes as we watched this reunion between the cubs from the nursery and their parents.

The whole pride then walked over to the waterhole and drank before plopping down in various places. Three of the lionesses started nursing cubs on and off. Some of the tiny cubs started climbing up on the two males and proceeded to lick their manes, sometimes they let them and sometimes they were growled at or swatted away.

We were intrigued by all the interactions going on between different cubs and also between cubs and grown-ups and enjoyed seeing baby lions close up for our first time ever. By about 6 pm most of the pride members were asleep and it was time for us to leave. This had been a very emotional experience and we felt privileged to have witnessed this reunion.

Now we were up to 57 lions and 10 cubs for Etosha.

So we drove back to Okaukuejo for a quick dinner with egg-in-a-hole and salad, so we could spend more time back at the WH. We saw giraffe again, nervous and skittish and one black rhino. Then the three young male lions came out from under a bush and walked away into the dark, thus confirming our suspicion that they were still around and evidently the giraffes knew that, too.

We took a shower and went to sleep extremely happy after having had an exceptional good animal sighting day. Red letter lion day.

[KaliCA]

[KaliCA]

[KaliCA]

[KaliCA]

Rhino in the bush. Hard to spot.

 

[KaliCA]

Okaukuejo lions with collars.

 

[KaliCA]

[KaliCA]

Anderson lions in the morning

 

[KaliCA]

Anderson lions and nursery in the evening.

[KaliCA]

[KaliCA]

[KaliCA]

OkaukueJo waterhole

 

[KaliCA]

Solar panel lions