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The Pursuit of Cats and Dogs - Timbavati, Sabi Sands


Kitsafari

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she scrambled down the tree, and went to a bush to clean herself. we watched her a bit, then we left. The rule in Londolozi was whoever found her first would have the first right to follow her back to the cubs. the cubs would only emerge if the mother was there. the leopard is very relaxed with vehicles and would help the cubs habituate to humans and their noisy vehicles. The rangers had a bad experience once a couple of years ago, when the leopard cubs were scared off by the vehicles going too close to them. those cubs grew up skittish of the vehicles and Londolozi didn't want that to be repeated. so the rule was only one vehicle would go to the new cubs at any one time, and it had to stay a distance from them.

 

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we took the morning break with our usual mocharula at a beautiful waterhole. a couple of elephants across the pond taking slurps of water, a crocodile soaking in the morning sun on the banks to their right, and right in the middle of the pond, a drowned tree provided space for a darter nest. A grey heron stood on a branch, and a hippo relaxed in the water.

 

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as I watched the darters interact, a shadow fell upon them. I looked up and saw a long brown-grey wingspan flying across the pond. A goliath heron landed on the branch - my first sighting of the beautiful bird.

 

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there was a surprise - breakfast in the bush! breakfast was set up in a large open clearing with proper tables lined with table linens and proper cutlery and crockery set. hot breakfast was being cooked at the grills and brai with cold breakfast laid out at another table. it was sumptious and we felt pampered and it was thoroughly enjoyable. we got to sit down with Equaliser finally to a meal. Londolozi has a great practice that when the dinners are served in the bomas, the rangers sit with you and dine with you.

 

along the drive to breakfast, a very relaxed family of warthogs.

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we were out of the door very fast for our last evening drive. 2.45pm according to my camera data. sandros asked what we wanted to see, and at first we weren't sure so he said since we hadn't been to the west side yet, we could head there where there male lions being heard. then i suddenly remembered we had yet to see the leopard cubs, and wanted one last shot at peeking at them. Once Sandros heard that, he turned the car around and we ended up - not with the cubs but with the mother, which was found all sprawled out in the iconic leopard spread on a branch of a sausage tree next to the tree hosting the kill. both calls - getting out early and getting in front of the Mashaba leopard turned out to be a good call, as we would soon see.

 

we had wanted a picture of the iconic leopard spread and had talked about it during the downtime at camp. and here she was, obliging us. Told you there is magic in sabi sands.

 

you can barely see her

 

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two other vehicles joined us, we made way a little for them. she decided she had sufficient rest, came down the tree and walked to the river to drink. sat down facing us, probably debating what her next course of action was. then she made way in a determined way out of the area and started a long trek, trailed by 3-4 crazy vehicles hot on her heels as she tried to lose us by choosing to walk through thick bushveld. we had either to skirt the bushveld or thrash through the bushes. after a long while, there were only 2 vehicles left following her - us and another vehicle we had come across in the morning also trailing another leopard (which I forgot to mention above!).

 

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and while she was walking, the other animals paused and looked up...

 

a kudu

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or two...

 

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a dwarf mongoose

 

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Edited by Kitsafari
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the ranger in the other vehicle kept pushing his vehicle forward and haranguing Sandros, the gist from what I understand was he was pushing to be the one to follow the leopard but Sandros was having none of it. He kept questioniong sandros' capability on whether he would lose the leopard or why he should be the one to continue with the leopard. Once i heard Sandros on the radio patiently explaining to the other person on the other end that his guests (us) were leaving the next day and this would be our last chance. I was quite aghast at such exchanges. we were there first at the tree with the leopard, so I felt we should be the ones to follow the leopard. I don't see why the other guide should be so pushy and honestly quite rude to question Sandros in front of the guests (both us and his own guests).

 

anyway, we soon forgot about the other guide (I was quite pleased that he couldn't get his way) when the leopard reached a gully and made soft calls. she was calling the cubs!. we pushed forward and the other vehicle finally left.

 

and the rest of the afternoon was pure pure magic that only the wild bush of Africa can deliver. one of my best experiences.

 

a cub came running out, curled round the mother, while a second one came out cautiously but lost its inhibitions at the vehicle and rushed forward. we kept back until the mother moved forward, then the vehicle inched ahead a bit at a time. until we were in the gully. the Mashaba female trusted us completely. the two cubs were suckling, although one was more nervous and ran away at a corner eyeing us suspiciously. throughout the time, the leopard would cast a sharp eye on us, making sure we were not threatening the babies. the tiny cubs were about 2 months old then, and were being moved from den to den, but had not been taken far out to a kill before. this afternoon, that was about to change.

 

so we finally saw the cubs! on our last evening drive....

 

For you, @@SafariChick

 

 

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she was in the dark and it was tough doing this pix...but that little untrusting face was just too good not to put up

 

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glancing over her shoulder at us

 

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Mother's dental love

 

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checking on us as baby mirrors mummy

 

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bathing session

 

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tails with love

 

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reassurance

 

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fighting for attention

 

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mother's love

 

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sorry about the shakes. the beginning was rather rocky as the car was coming down the slope and to a halt.

 

Edited by Kitsafari
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one of the cubs - the more adventurous one - took off and went up the bank. the other shyer cub wanted to suckle but the Mashaba female stood up and followed the first cub. Sandros said the female was going to bring them to the kill, and that it was the first time the cubs were being led to a kill.

 

this would be a dangerous time for the cubs. they'd be exposed in a big area they were not familiar with, they could come under attack by other predators and they were too small to run fast enough or hide from the predators. But they were over 2 months old and ready for meat. if they went through the brush, we would not be able to follow them as the vehicle would be making too much noise and that would scare them or make them more skittish at a time when there is already high stress for them venturing into the unknown world.

 

Luckily for us, Mom decided on a clean way and followed the road, with the cubs slinking and running from bush to bush to hide. at one point, the impalas saw them, and snorted. the shyer cub flew backwards to hide inthe bush but when Mom and the other cub moved forward, it had no choice but to run out to follow them. at another time, the cub ran backwards to the road and didn't want to come out until the other cub went to it and coaxed it forward.

 

the vehicle stayed far behind, and moved very slowly giving them space. after a distance, sadly, Sandros said we had to give up the covetious spot to other guests. the other vehicle took up where we left off, but not before its engine started up and scattered both cubs far from their Mom.

 

apologies in advance. dusk was setting in, and the light was low and the photographers (me particularly) were no experts and didn't know to set the camera to offset the darkness....

 

 

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Tails ahoy!

 

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Edited by Kitsafari
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the skies were cloudy and grey and the day was quickly getting chilly as the warm sunrays were blocked. a large herd of breeding elephants were making their way to a small grove and we stopped to watch them, especially the young ones who were playing against each other. they were also very tiny ones - forgot to ask about ages! this safari was all about the sensory sensations - not learning. just enjoying the moments....

 

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a tiny tot

 

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two tiny tots

 

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a bull walking the opposite direction with his trunk resting on a tusk

 

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couple of youngsters checking out a sapling

 

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a surprise awaits us at the camp. the room is all lit up by candles, the bathtub was filled and romantically lit with candlelights, and a table has been set in the room for a private dinner with a bottle of champagne in the ice. I'm not sure how often they do this, but it was enchanting and we took it to be for our sliver anniversary. the food, as usual, was excellent.

 

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the last morning of our safari dawned. a bit sad at the thought that our safari was drawing to a close, at the same time, thankful for all the fantatsic sightings we had, and feeling a bit homesick for our doggies at home.

 

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along the way, roadblocks of elephants including a tiny tot which couldn't navigate a bump on the road. the poor baby fell onto its trunk, made a quick recovery and ran under the safety of her mother's legs.

 

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Edited by Kitsafari
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other things seen along the way:

 

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sorry about the bad photos but this was cute and wanted to share:

 

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we left to search for lions that had been roaring that area the entire night. it seemed quite a few vehicles were driving in that area to seek the big cats. we found the tracks but couldn't find the cats. we left our tracker and another tracker following the paw marks while Sandros drove us further down the hill as he had heard alarm calls. that was when we had the inevitable flat tyre. Sandros worked at it, then we were back on the vehicle again.

 

It looked like we had used up all our quota of luck. we never did find those lions. then we heard there were two male lions in the west, so we headed to that area, bordering the Singita concession. the Styx pride were flat on their backs, and were not moving anywhere. there wasn't any bush or big tree to offer them shade so I'm sure they would move soon as the sun rose higher and higher.

 

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Oh wow, two leopard cubs, how fantastic! Absolute safari magic. :)

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oops so i've got to backtrack quickly to the leopard I missed out on the previous day's morning drive. after breakfast, a vehicle had tracked a female leopard and we joined that vehicle. the leopard was the Nhlangulenin female, a rather skittish, nervous cat that didn't like the presence of the vehicles.She had been just finished mating and looked skinny and hungry. both vehicles were tracking her and the crushing of bushes and crackling of twigs and logs as the cars bumped over them, added to her stress. after a short while, i asked Sandros if our presence would hamper her hunting, and he admitted it would. he quickly caught on to what I was trying to hint at and asked do we wanted to continue. and we said no. i had felt we were stressing her further,given that she was already nervous about vehicles. since she was hunting, we shouldnt be impeding her in anyway. so we left. Sandros said later he had radioed the other vehicle and they had left soon after too.

 

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we gave up on the soundly sleeping cats, and decided to go for our morning mocharula. Sandros made his way to a large waterhole, nothing that there was a large group of elephants walking in the distance. when we reached the waterhole a large bull was drinking his fill, and I was a bit nervous doing the bush loo with him around. he looked far in the distance but recalling that elephants can cover ground quickly didn't give me that much confidence. it was quick call.

 

back to the coffee, and the elephants started to come in to the waterholes. the bull initially tried to chase the first group away from the larger pond but as wave after wave of elephants came in, he just gave up. and it was a brilliant close to our safari.

 

we spent a long time at the waterhole just watching in silence, the grey giants coming in to quench their thirst as the mist was clearing behind them. there were so many of them - i suspect nearly a hundred as each wave was of 20-30 elephants with their young. one calm elephant gives out such warm calm energy. a huge group like this - it was just incredible to see such a big group of families travelling together, keeping safe together. What a fabulous and marvellous way to close our safari.

 

 

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don't know which is better - colour or monochrome?

 

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no, not elephants but zebras coming over to say thank you, and goodbye

 

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the second tape is rather long at over 5mins but it's just about enjoying the sights of the grey giants arriving, drinking and departing every so quietly and gently.

 

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Thank you to all those who had patiently followed this report. thanks for sticking around and giving such generous and encouraging support to push me to finish the report! there isn't much to reflect on for this trip. it was all about sitting back and enjoying the bush but Greater Kruger was very magnanimous, giving us incredible insights and new sightings and fresh beginnings. So this is it. I had enjoyed doing my last TR, and relived my trip. hoping the next won't be that far away. :)

 

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Thanks, Kit, another great report. Magnificent sightings all around, and I hope it was everything an anniversary trip should be. It really seems to be the Leopard capital of the Safari world. Looking forward to your India adventure!

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Thanks, Kit, another great report. Magnificent sightings all around, and I hope it was everything an anniversary trip should be. It really seems to be the Leopard capital of the Safari world. Looking forward to your India adventure!

 

Thanks much @@michael-ibk! we saw a total of 9 leopards in Londolozi in 5 days. it's really a leopard world in that concession. :)

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Too many lovely, exciting sightings@@Kitsafari, so many Rhinos and so close, you must have been able to smell them! Is that Fish Eagle a juvenile, just wondering with the mottled plumage, other photos I've seen have snow White head and neck, I've never seen one and its on my wishlist, ever-growing, for next time. Too bad about the Ground Hornbill being in strife, the list just grows. "A beautiful clean looking male with bright eyes", indeed, long may he reign amidst the complicated politics of a Lions society.

@@elefromoz Thank you for your continuing support! I can't recall which post that was for the bird you are referring to, and I probably didn't know and that's why I left it unnamed! Gotta find the bird experts for identification.

 

Aren't you heading out soon to SA? Im sure you will have an amazing time! Where are you heading to?

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Thank you for a wonderful trip report. It surely was the safari experiences we dream about and would love to duplicate. Your pictures are great and I enjoyed everyone. The lions hunting the buffaloes in daylight, the honey badger, beautiful cheetah. bush buck, ostrich, wild dog hunting, leopard cubs, and more! How spectacular!

 

And I can't forget the rolling hippo! Loved the feet up in the air. Not many people have seen that.

 

I enjoyed the descriptions of your experiences - you did such a great job - I felt I was there with you. Thank you so much for taking the time to share it all with us.

 

Terry

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@@Kitsafari catching up, I'm only on post #200 - no need to apologize for a deluge of leopard photos! I especially love the black and white profile of the Mashaba female in this post!

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