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Yes I did see Wildebeest


CaroleE

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It has been too long coming but finally the next instalment of my days in the Serengeti. Still only on day one, plenty more to share......

 

I stuck to the plan, crossings had been achieved therefore in the afternoon I went in search of something other than wildebeest. Although this wasn't completely successful as there were still plenty around, chewing away after their crossings in the morning.

 

We did drive along the river bank for a short distance, spotting one of the big crocs who patrol the waters. Also a waterbuck peeking out of long grasses at the waters edge,

 

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This game drive was swiftly named 'The injured animal drive'.
A zebra walking very awkwardly. Closer inspection gave the cause. Its back right hoof was almost hanging off. Bloody leg. Pretty sure it had been got at by something, but by what? It could hardly walk and was staying very close to a tree. It was managing to eat what it could find within a short distance but I was soon thinking this zebra is not long for this world. Next we came upon two wildebeest with damaged legs. In all likelihood damaged during a crossing. Hardly surprising with the manner in which they fling themselves off the river banks. They were in slightly better shape than the zebra and Benson thought it likely that their legs could heal and the animals would survive.
A fine example that safaris are not always cuddly lion cubs and beautifully coloured birds. Nope this is nature and it can be cruel and ugly.

Out onto more open ground, away from from the river. Elephants! Benson stopped the car and made a comment along the lines of 'you need to take the time to look at animals'. I looked at the group again and saw a relative youngster with half a trunk. Yep the injured animal drive it was!

 

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The trunk was half the normal length. The ele did however look healthy and well fed. The rest of the herd were feeding so we waited to see if we could see how 'Half Trunk' was eating.

 

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A few minutes later we had our answer. He had mastered bending down very low so he was still able to use his trunk to gather grasses, pull them from the ground and into his mouth. When he turned his back I was able to see he was using one of his back legs to balance himself. Sticking it up in the air as he bent down. Had this litlle fella been attacked? After looking at the photos the next day the verdict was that 'Half Trunk' was born like this as he still had a normal end to his trunk.

 

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Fascinating end to the day. I was glad that at least one of the injured animals was doing well and had been able to make adjustments so that he could do the normal every day tasks.

The sun was setting. Very nicely book ending the day after the sunrise of the morning.

 

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Edited by CaroleE
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michael-ibk

Glad to see you continue. Fascinating how that Ele is using his trunk.

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Glad to see you continue. Fascinating how that Ele is using his trunk.

 

Thanks Michael. Busy writing up the next day now!

 

It was fascinating to watch that ele. Amazing how intelligent and therefore adaptable beings they are. I spent a lot of time on this trip watching how they use their trunks, particularly for eating. Feeling for grasses, grasping them and then turning, twisting them round and around in order to pull them out of the ground in one big clump. Then hitting the grass on the ground or their foot to release some of the chaff and dirt. Only then do they pop it into their mouths. A pretty complex procedure and all with their trunks!

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The next morning was another relatively early start. I even had time to snap the view of the Mara River from outside my tent.

 

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We left at 7am after breakfast and headed out past the airstrip and the ranger station and went out into the area full with kopjes. We were on the look out for big cats.

But first I came upon a group of mongoose. They were swarming around and over a dead wildebeest. For some reason I previously had had the idea that they were not carnivores. Why? I don't know. I had never seen them near carrion before but it was a big bonus for me to witness this behaviour.

 

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We then found lions. Always good. This group were perched on top of a kopje. Sitting. relaxing, taking it easy as the day hotted up. Basically typical lion behaviour!

 

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We went in for a slightly closer look. Suddenly there was a sound. Pssssshhhhhh. Oh no, I knew exactly what it was. A puncture. Right by the lions. It had to happen one day. A puncture on a game drive. First time for me and not the best place for it to happen!

 

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Luckily there was another car close by so we made our way away from the lions to change the tyre. Using the other car as a shield we piled out of the car and changed the tyre. Well I say we, it was Benson and the guide from the other vehicle who did the hard work whilst I was on lion spotting duties. One slightly hairy moment when 5 became 3 and I couldn't quite see where the other two lions where but we were quickly safely back in the vehicle. With grateful thanks to Serian and their guide. Not forgetting their guests who didn't mind the unscheduled stop on their drive. They said it added to the enjoyment of their trip!

So what do you do after a puncture next to lions? You go back and have a better look at the lions. This time avoiding the exact area where the puncture occurred. There were still 5 lions but two quickly changed position onto another part of the rock. I think this was the most active I saw the Serengeti lions the whole time I was there! We waited a while to see if they were going to move. But they looked very comfortable on their rockly outcrop and the posssibility of them doing something other than sitting or laying down was small so we decided to leave them and go out onto the plains.

 

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This necessitated a drive back down by the river. As we arrived at crossing point 4, the wildebeest were crossing. In small numbers compared to the crossings of yesterday. But I had stumbled on another crossing on the day when I wasn't looking for them :)

 

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The plains were looking dry. In some places it appeared to have been burnt to encourage new growth.

Elephant bones had been carefully placed by the road side. I was assured this one had died a natural death.

 

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By a small water course more lions. Judging by how relaxed they looked, they were not going to move so we wasted no more time and moved on.

 

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Wildebeest dotted about. A lone buffalo with his head just visible. A Tommie and its young, very skittish. A lone topi.

 

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Then I looked at the horizon. There was a single file line of wildebeest moving slowly accross the plains towards the river. I was unable to get one shot of them all. As I turned my head in either direction the line just continued. I panned and snapped maybe 4 or 5 shots of the never ending continuous line. There were already high numbers near the river but there were many more coming to join them. This for me was one of those moments when the pure spectacle of it all hits you squarely in the face. Also appreciating the fact that you are there and are able to witness it in person.

 

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The sun was out and high in the almost cloudless sky. Only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun. We turned for camp.

But the Serengeti had a couple of surprises before lunch. By the river I spotted a couple of hippo, then a few more, then more. I think I was up to double figures. One sole hippo on the bank who gave a good showing of just how wide a hippo can open his mouth. Then he calmly went on his way. We moved on, even more hippo. By this point I had stopped counting. Then in the middle of the river on a sandbank a mother and a baby hippo. Estimate 3 - 4 days old. Cuteness overload!

 

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Walking slowly through the trees and bushes a small herd of elephant. With a youngster. I stopped and spent time looking at them feeding. As I pointed out to Michael earlier I spent a lot of time on this trip watching how eles use their trunks. The versatility is incredible. Whilst eating, they first use it to feel for grasses. Next stage is grasping them, turning, twisting them round and around in order to pull them out of the ground in one big clump. Then the grass is hit on the ground or their foot to release some of the chaff and dirt. Only then do they pop their food into their mouths. A pretty complex procedure and all with their trunks!

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It really was time for lunch. It was approaching half past one. My morning game drive had almost turned into a full day one. Back to camp for lunch. And a small rest before I headed out again in the late afternoon.

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Glad you are back with more. The injured ele's ability to compensate is really something.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not only did you see wildebeest you have documented photographic proof of their stupidity. That was a funny shot.

 

Fascinating about the short trunked elephant. Surviving with a birth defect may be possible when in a herd environment.

 

There are probably a lot more injured animals running around than we ever detect.

 

Glad the puncture was not too much of a problem for you or the onlooking lions.

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  • 3 weeks later...

After lunch I was off again. We really are gluttons for punishment when on safari.

Our destination was the same as this morning. We had heard news of a leopard. And in a moment of madness I said I would really like to find a leopard. As if that is possible, leopards choose to find you don’t they……

Along the way I was happy to see the first giraffe in this part of the trip.

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And a Hamerkop on the causeway/bridge over to the Lamai Wedge.

 

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We spent the next few hours searching for the elusive leopard. And boy was he elusive! We did find the lions again, they had managed to move from one kopje to another but were yet again taking a rest atop a rock.

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Round and round the rock we went. Peering in all the crevices, double checking trees. No luck

A radio message that another vehicle had seen a leopard in an area we had just passed. Grrrr why did he not let people know this before now! There were now several vehicles searching. We all covered a lot of ground but still no leopard. Personally I think the leopard was sat somewhere looking at us and laughing at the crazy humans. :lol:

In the end we had just about given up on the leopard and we retried the area where the lions had been spotted. One last time. No leopard BUT I did spot something on the kopje. A klipspringer. I had never seen one of those before.

 

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This was a good drive after all. Benson was not so enthusiastic, for him a klipspringer was no compensation for no leopard. I tried to convince him that I really was happy with my first ever klipspringer but he wasn’t convinced.

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One last visit to the lions, it was really getting dark now.

 

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Wearily we went back to camp. We were late getting back. No time for a post game drive shower, it was straight to dinner and a drink. That evening stories abounded about a further crossing that day. Most people wished they hadn’t seen it. It had been a big crossing, so big that many animals were drowned as they couldn’t make it out of the water. Stories of wildebeest floating in large numbers down the Mara didn’t sound at all appealing. I was pretty pleased I had missed it.

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As soon as night fell the wildebeest and the zebra arrived. Still lots of fresh grass by the camp. As more people went back to their tents they came closer and closer to camp. Before going to bed I poked by head out to see them all around my tent, munching away. I was lulled to sleep with the gentle sound of them eating supper. Sometime later I was awoken by something behind my tent. It was very close, right behind my head and making a lot of noise. It continued and continued. Eventually I decided it either had to move or eat more quietly :)

No luck the animals stayed and I had a somewhat disturbed night. No longer happy that so many wildebeest had successfully made it over the Mara. The bloody things were keeping me awake!!!

Next morning a relaxed breakfast was interrupted with news of a potential crossing. It was going to be a biggie and at crossing point 2. Because the camp was so close I didn’t mind postponing the day’s plans to go and have a look. Despite the fact that I had already seen a lot of crossings I fairly sprinted back to my tent to grab my camera bag. I think I was becoming slightly obsessed with crossings

 

I arrived at the river to find hundreds of wildebeest on the other bank. With more arriving. Very soon there was a long line of them walking towards the river bank. The numbers were building up, room was becoming a problem. Would they cross or simply turn round to alleviate the pressure. They crossed. The crocodiles were in attendance but I didn't see any wildebeest or zebra for that matter being snatched by a croc. Maybe they were full from the pickings from the crossings of the last few days.

 

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Another two crossings swiftly followed, one were Benson positioned the vehicle beautifully to get closer to the wildebeest as they struggled out of the water.

 

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Bonus sighting of a Goliath Heron on the way back to camp.

 

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Another exilerating mornng by the Mara!

The original plan for this morning had been to head out to the Lamai Wedge. It was already mid morning therefore to get there and back before lunch wasn't feasible. After a quick conversation we decided to take lunch with us and do an all day drive. A quick radio call back to camp with our sandwich orders as we made our way back to camp, a quick comfort break and lunch was picked up. Enter a very large picnic box. There was me expecting a few sandwiches which we could throw into the drinks cooler! Nope at Lemala they look after you: it may have been a last minute call but we were taking a proper lunch with us. Soon we were heading out towards the airstrip but this time we crossed the causeway, luckily not under water, and I was off to explore a new area of the Serengeti: the Lamai Wedge.

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Your single swimmer seems down right lonley in comparison to the herds crossing later. You were so much more lucky than the previous guests with their 30-wildebeest crossing.

 

83 posts for a giraffe to appear? Sometimes they're everywhere. Just never know.

 

Love the klipspringer.

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@@CaroleE I love your picture of the klippspringer you do not see them so often and they usually do not post so nice.

I have lured them in by imitating them, they have a special sound and the males comes running if you imitate them, they are teritorial so they do not like competition. They have a Shrill trumpeth like-whistle.

I have lived in Tanzania for a total of 9 years and I have not yet seen a crossing )o: Been guiding a lot but not so often in Serengeti.

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Your single swimmer seems down right lonley in comparison to the herds crossing later. You were so much more lucky than the previous guests with their 30-wildebeest crossing.

 

83 posts for a giraffe to appear? Sometimes they're everywhere. Just never know.

 

Love the klipspringer.

 

The crossings just seemed to build up and build up, with the numbers getting bigger and bigger every time. It was staggering!

 

The giraffe: there were a few in Tarangire therefore not completely giraffeless on the trip up to this point. But this was the first in the Serengeti - on my last full day. Previous trips I've bemoaned yet another giraffe sighting. The unpredictability of safaris....which is just what makes them so interesting and thrilling.

 

The klipspringer.was fab! In fact there were two, but no decent shots of them together.

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@@CaroleE I love your picture of the klippspringer you do not see them so often and they usually do not post so nice.

 

I have lured them in by imitating them, they have a special sound and the males comes running if you imitate them, they are teritorial so they do not like competition. They have a Shrill trumpeth like-whistle.

 

I have lived in Tanzania for a total of 9 years and I have not yet seen a crossing )o: Been guiding a lot but not so often in Serengeti.

 

 

Readig this I am even happier to have seen them - there were two. (No decent shots of them together though.)

Crikey 9 years and no crossing. I would say you can have one of mine but it wouldn't be the same:-) I wish you luck and hope you get to see at least one in the near future!

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  • 2 weeks later...

We crossed over the causeway. Luckily not under water!

Eventually we had a bit of posse: our vehicle; a friend of Benson and one another vehicle. Off out in search of cheetah.
Actually posse is a good word considering the view for the next hour or so.

 

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I half expected to see tumbleweed roll past and wagons being circled for lunch :)

We did see a lone topi.

 

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After much crissing and crossing we were almost at the Tanzania/Kenya border. A radio call and we found the cheetahs. Under a tree. Naturally.

 

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If I remember correctly, two brothers who seem to regularly hang around this area. Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

It was pretty hot, they didn't really want to do a lot. Ocassionally they moved position. A few more shots and we left them in peace.

 

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We made our way to the border stones. Of course I had to jump out and quickly take a photo standing astride the border line.

 

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Which country am I in?

 

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Sneaky step to the right and I could say I had been in Kenya on this trip as well :)

A fine example of how not to draw national boundaries - seems this one runs through one iof these hills. That's what you get using a map, a ruler, in an office far far away.......

 

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We then headed further back into Tanzania and found a tree, sat under it and opened the magic box from the camp.

 

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Sandwiches, pasta, tea and cake. All enjoyed with not another person in sight. With only the sounds of nature for company and the plains spreading out in front of us. Benson and myself had a chat about his kids, conservation, are more national parks and reserves the best solution? Getting children interested in nature, conservation and the outdoors. Not forgetting how great it was just sitting here. One of those fascinating wide ranging chats you have on safari.

It was eventually time to pack everything up, we left nothing but a small imprint of the box, amd returned to the kopjes. Unfinished business - leopards!

In between searching for the ever elusive leopard I had a few other good sightings

A giraffe, sitting with her legs neatly tucked under her. A female as there is still hair on her horns. Or of course it could be a young male.

 

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A family of warthogs. With two of the youngsters having a tussle with each other. They were really enjoying themselves. I could probably do a trip report with just the series of these two, but I'll only give you a couple.

 

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The klipspringer made another appearance!

 

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Some very well hidden lions, a small herd of eland and an Agama lizard

 

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Another exceptional day's sightings.

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What? Did you think that was all for the day.

 

No.

 

We were bouncing over some rocks on our way back to camp. Another African massage. The car came slowly to a stop.

 

'Before I go closer, have a look to your left. Just in case he runs away'

 

And there he was.......

 

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Incredulous, we had found our leopard.

 

We had stopped looking much earlier. Later talking to Benson he had no real reason or idea why he had chosen the route he did. That sixth sense of a good guide!

 

We moved the vehicle a bit closer. Not getting too close and crowding the leopard. He, I am saying it is a he judging by the size of him and of the neck, was tucked in behind some rocks. The photos aren't the best, here is a cropped version of another.

 

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Wow! What an end to my last evening on safari! Another 3 cat day, rounded off with what fior me is the best of the three.

 

Last dinner in camp, on safari. Always mixed feelings at this point of a trip. The wildebeest were closing in again as I went to sleep. That night I was awoken by a dramatic thump and then another. The next morning no lights in the tent, not a problem as the sun was already up. During breakfast I told the guys in camp about the lights. It wasn't a problem for me as I would be leaving before sunset but I didn't want the next occupants to be without lights. There came a matter of fact reply: oh yes, probably a wildebeest running into the solar panel. I had the idea they had seen this before :)

 

My flight wasn't until mid afternoon therefore I was going out on a last drive. Wringing all I could out of my last few precious hours.

 

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Atravelynn

So often the sought after species is saved for the end. Makes for a more exciting trip! I always like a sitting giraffe. Nice you saw the cheetah (plural).

 

"We made our way to the border stones. Of course I had to jump out and quickly take a photo standing astride the border line." The photo I want to see is you on the border stone!

 

The old wildebeest in the solar panel problem!

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So often the sought after species is saved for the end. Makes for a more exciting trip! I always like a sitting giraffe. Nice you saw the cheetah (plural).

 

"We made our way to the border stones. Of course I had to jump out and quickly take a photo standing astride the border line." The photo I want to see is you on the border stone! Nope, not going to happen :) :) That's why I'm the one with the camera. Well most of the time....occassionally someone manages to sneek a photo of me

 

The old wildebeest in the solar panel problem! It was said in such a matter of fact way I knew they had had it way too many times!

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Last game drive, let's find something different. Oh hang on there is a crossing right by camp. As we are close we'll pop and have a look.

 

Anyone else getting bored yet? The number of crossings is honestly a bit ridiculous. But don't worry it was the last!

 

This one was huge and I mean huge. Even the guides were getting their phones and cameras out. We stayed for about 50 minutes and apart from a few minutes it was full on the whole time. There were a large number of vultures on the opposite bank, sitting there, in a row, waiting. Still quite a few carcases in the river, with vultures hopping around on them having a feed. Even the crocs deigned to pay a visit. Althiough I am sure they were pretty full by now.

 

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The numbers were incredible. And still they came, tumbling, running, jumping towards the river bank. Fighting their way through the water. No longer in single file just a huge mass of wildebeest. Someone nearby spotted a mother and calf in the water. Everyone began focussing on these two animals, willing them on. They reached the bank, both struggled to get up it, the mother falling a couple of times. Then they made it and a cheer went up!

 

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A quick check from Benson can we leave? Yes, no problem. He then set off at a fast pace. We've all been there, we know something is up when the guides stop talking and just drive. Faster. You sit there quietly and wait to see what will appear. We headed past the airstrip. Initially he wouldn't tell me what he was looking for but when we got to an area of dense trees and bushes he needed my eyes. There were two other cars in the area also peering intently trying to spot something. The 'something' was a cheetah and very young cubs spotted earlier in morning.

 

We spent the next couple of hours checking all possible places. Peering into bushes, under bushes, trying to distinguish a shape that shouldn't be there in the long grass. IThe chances were small we would find them but we gave it a good shot. It wasn't quiet. Waterbuck, elephants made a brief appearance but quickly went to hide in some bushes. The bird count also increased with sightings of an African Crested Eagle, Little Bee-eater and a Southern Ground Hornbill.

 

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The search was unsuccessful despite everyone's attempts. Around the kopjes for the last time with a couple of nice sightings to end on.

 

A large group of Hyrax and something Benson had been keeping an eye out for during the last few days, Oribi. The latter a new species for me :)

 

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This really is the end. No more wildebeest, elephants, baobab trees or even big cats. I had no expectations when starting this trip. It had been christened the 'In between trip' as a bit of a joke with friends. I can safely say this was no in between trip. It stands out as an incredible experience.

Tarangire is a beautiful park and the elephant and baobabs there will be a memory that I will look back on for a very long time.

Then came the utter madness, there really is no other word for it, of the Serengeti. Of course I was hoping to see 'a' crossing but I never imagined I would have the migration at full volume.

Add in all the other sightings in both parks and it was a wildlife spectacular. The two parks complimented each other really well. Two parks in 7 nights was sufficient. I am pleased I chose not to add the Crater as this would not have given sufficient time in any of the parks.

A few words on the camps.

Mawe Ninga Camp in Tarangire is a simple affair. No guides or game vehicles therefore you either have to self drive or come with your own guide and vehicle. It is a stunning location, high on a hill overlooking the park and a lake. Sitting by the fire here is a great sundowner spot. The tents are perched along the hillside in two rows and have a sitting area outside so you can enjoy the view. Lots of steps, maybe not for those who are not so agile. The staff ere great, really friendly. Food was ok, not exceptional but ok. The drive into camp/out into the park is via an area infested by tsetse flies. So be prepared! My honest opinion, with a few tweaks this could be a great camp. A good cheaper alternative to the more expensive options in Tarangire. I think they need to pay better attention to detail. An example: no running water in the tents therfore ensure the water jug is filled up. Another big bonus they run night drives. Do one!

Lemala Mara Camp. Location is within viewng distance of the Mara River under trees to give much needed shade. The camp has the mess tent as its central point with the guest tents in two wings spreading out from it. Try and get a tent on the river side. Tents are huge as are the beds! The staff are fantastic, they truly will do their best to meet any request and make your stay enjoyable. Always greeted with smiley faces and jokes. Food was great. One caveat: lunches were mainly vegetarian and were tasty and varied but vegetarian option not so great at dinner, often the meat/fish dish just without the meat or fish! Safari activities are usually shared but almost everyone when I was there got their own vehicle and guide. Probably because the camp was not quite half full. The guiding was excellent. No night drives or walking allowed in the park.

 

Thank you to everyone for reading along. As always all the positive and kind comments were much appreciated.

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michael-ibk

Thanks, Carole, really enjoyed this one. Very lucky with your crossings. You had awesome sightings, and yes, you did see a few Wildebeest. :)

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Thanks, Carole, really enjoyed this one. Very lucky with your crossings. You had awesome sightings, and yes, you did see a few Wildebeest. :)

 

Thanks Michael. Indeed fantastic sightings as well as stunning locations. I have had my fill of wildebeest for quite some time.....

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Thanks for sharing your trip @@CaroleE, I really enjoyed following along!

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Atravelynn

Even better than you on the border stone are the wildebeest crossing the Mara. I could feel the fatigue of those single wildes you caught climbing the bank after the crossing. Whether an in between trip or not, a safari always finds ways to delight. It was a fantastic trip and you created a fantastic report from it. You'll find those cheetah cubs on another trip. There's always a reason to go back! Hope you are planning that return.

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@@Atravelynn

 

Thank you for the kind words about my trip report. I'm not too concerned I didn't find the cheetah cubs I had plenty other excellent sightings.

 

And those poor wildebeest....I saw a programme about the migration this weekend and seeing all those crossings, some in much deeper and faster water, reminded me just how difficult it is for them.

 

A return to Tanzania is on the list but more than likely to the south, Selous, Ruaha and Katavi are calling. If I can summon up the courage to do battle with the tsetse! Although I think a visit to Zim is higher up on the list :)

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Atravelynn

@@Atravelynn

 

Thank you for the kind words about my trip report. I'm not too concerned I didn't find the cheetah cubs I had plenty other excellent sightings. You certainly did. Not possible to see everything!

 

And those poor wildebeest....I saw a programme about the migration this weekend and seeing all those crossings, some in much deeper and faster water, reminded me just how difficult it is for them. But they may be too dumb to know they are having a rough time.

 

A return to Tanzania is on the list but more than likely to the south, Selous, Ruaha and Katavi are calling. If I can summon up the courage to do battle with the tsetse! Although I think a visit to Zim is higher up on the list :)

Those are some great destinations.

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