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Another bloody safari - Mara and Ol Pejeta October 2015


pault

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The last morning may be a bit underwhelming after all that, but it was a very good drive and it is just as well that I didn't pack away one of my cameras, as I often do for the airstrip transfer. Both would be needed.

 

There is very little to tell though.It was a typical, boring safari morning - almost quaint after all our unusual sightings.

 

We visited two hyena dens that morning. At the first, while it was still practically dark, without any warning the pups launched a dawn strike on the tyres. Jonathon asleep at the wheel? Perhaps, but in his defence, it was a multi-pronged attack and unusually brazen, even for hyena pups. Anyway, he managed to get away without losing too much tread, but the sighting had to be cut very short.

 

 

Checking the tyres - hyena style.

 

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We hadn't seen the jackal pups before - they hadn't been around when we had passed. However, this morning there they were - active and getting ready to entertain in the very early light.

 

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As the sun rose the shadows cast were surprisingly strong, and make the pictures look like they were taken with flash. For some reason the camera struggled to focus correctly too - just a little off in a number of shots, and not simply because of the speed they were moving.

 

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A hyena spotted them coming out of a bush with a bit of bone and came over to investigate in case there was some food going. The pups were a bit frightened at first, but soon started following the hyena around, as a kind of game-like preparation for life feeding themselves. This carried on until the hyena found the bit of bone, discovered it was ancient and went on her way.

Sniffing the air for a scent of a meal..

Where are those little doggies and where have they hidden that meal?

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Following the hunter....

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Success, and yet total disappointment.

 

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A couple of other animals from that morning

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At the second hyena den, things were a lot slower and shade and rest were on the agenda for all. One pup came very close, but showed no interest in the tyres.

Suckling

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Inquisitive

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Another perspective

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Cleaning mother

 

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After the hyena den we came across three vehicles, watching the Cheli lion pride feed on a reedbuck... well, actually they were watching the pride watch a single lion feed on a reedbuck, and he wasn't sharing, when he got hot and sleepy he simply picked up his meal and took it off to the shade with him, followed by a still hopeful family.

 

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The Good Father....

 

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However, if they manage to feed 30 mouths the lionesses of the pride would almost certainly have something else before long.

 

At breakfast by the river, we watched a water monitor up to some strange stuff over on the other bank. At first it was watching the water, and seemed to be going for a fish, but then it appeared to be covering, or trying to uncover, eggs in the sand on the bank. Then it appeared to be either drinking, or using its tongue to check the water for something. All the time, there was a lot of tongue action. Jonathon thought it was probably checking it's eggs, but he was busy preparing breakfast so he didn't have much of a look.

 

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There was also a bird looking to get blood from a (hairy) stone.

 

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Ouch!

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Quite a nice breakfast.

 

Between breakfast and the airstrip we came across a fascinating tree. It was almost completely covered in silk spun by thousands of caterpillars. I think it would have been completely wrapped if it hadn't been for the strong winds over the preceding days. I'd seen things like this before, but not on this scale. A perfect way to end the trip I think.

 

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Spreading out to envelop other objects. True science fiction.

 

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And it was getting into birthing time. Lots of youngsters starting to appear during the last few days of our stay.

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And that was that. Back home. Time for the worst moment of the trip (goodbye to the last guide) but this time we had seen so much it seemed a bit less depressing than usual.

 

 

Goodbye to the Mara, as herds of buffalo and wildebeest head for the river. Every time I leave here, I wonder how long I can stay away. I'd prefer destinations where all was new and everything sa surprise. But then again, even after five?.... six? trips here - many a week or more - there are always surprises. In conversation, the most boring destination in Africa ("Where are you going?" "Mara." "Yawn.") but what a place it can be when you get there.

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Security is Nairobi was almost comically tight. Check after check and scanning of every vehicle entereing the airport. Hope it's worth it for the warm glow it gives the Americans. Definitely worth it for some individual Americans here - to have direct flights from the US (I guess they are direct anyway).

Edited by pault
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Ol Pejeta teaser

 

In a way, Ol Pejeta is as "boring" as the Mara, but I think many people who visit for only a short time don't realise just how much wildlfie can be found there. Most visited but somehow rather under-rated. Maybe it is because (aside from the rhino - and what an aside) it doesn't have anything that is really its own to offer, other than the chimps and Baraka the blind rhino. It's neither quite central or quite northern (no chance of gerenuk here, for example, and at the same time it's not quite a mix of the two either. Meru without the big historical reputation, rivers and variety of habitats,

 

Except that its actually rather good for wildlife. Very good even. And it doesn't look like much at first, but there is something very special about broad plains at this altitude. All together we've spent 12 nights there now. Although we quite probably won't go again (but who knows?) we haven't really felt it has been too much - maybe one day too much but not more. Being unable to find the wild dogs was a disappointment, and there are other small diappointments that I'll come to in due course, but overall the pictures here and the ones that follow don't lie and they'll tell you we did very well, thank you. It's a surprising place - maybe a bit like Nairobi National Park (although Nanyuki is no Nairobi and much further away) plus plus.

 

 

Ol Pejeta House is built next to a "dam" (small lake formed by damming or digging to provide permanent water). That was half dry while we were there, but the dry part provides some very popular, mineral-rich soil. You can see waterbucks in the panorama below, and there would be reglular visitors through much of the day. It also has lovely views of Mount Kenya when the weather is favourable.. (Note you should be able to click to make the picture below big if you are so inclined - although there isn't much to see that you probably can't see already).

 

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A multi-shot panorama (each one at 100mm!) of Mount Kenya on a particularly clear day. Since I did it without a tripod (so the pieces were not exactly matching) and Ol Pejeta is all sloping deceptively one way or the other, it was difficult to decide how it should look.

 

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Edited by pault
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Awesome report as always @@pault

 

I agree that the Mara always delivers and then some and am glad to hear that you are on the mend. The jackal sunrise shot from your final drive in MNC is beautiful (...a nice way for me to start a Monday morning). Looking forward to more ol P. We've visited there once and agree there is good general game viewing (plus oryx and tons of rhino). I really like their conservation model - transforming a group of ranches into a conservancy with blended revenue stream (tourism, agriculture and still some cattle ranching).

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Great report. I really like the non-linear structure where you are going home and then you are at Ol Pejeta!

Great pictures of the jackal cubs/pups and I really like the hyena pictures.

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Awesome report as always @@pault

 

I agree that the Mara always delivers and then some and am glad to hear that you are on the mend. The jackal sunrise shot from your final drive in MNC is beautiful (...a nice way for me to start a Monday morning). Looking forward to more ol P. We've visited there once and agree there is good general game viewing (plus oryx and tons of rhino). I really like their conservation model - transforming a group of ranches into a conservancy with blended revenue stream (tourism, agriculture and still some cattle ranching).

 

Thanks.

 

Oryx? Are there? Where I wonder? I haven't had a really good sighting of oryx for years. Cheetahs are leading oryx 4-0 for me at Ol Pejeta. Oryx are equal with the leopards and pangolins.... and kudu.

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@@TonyQ. My wife can bend time. When I get to the end I will insert a link that will jump you forward to the beginning again (where you will see my explanation of how my wife bends time). ;-)

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@@TonyQ. My wife can bend time.

 

I rather doubt that that is the only thing she can bend :P

Is she not the one in charge? Mine is :D

Edited by johnkok
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Awesome report as always @@pault

 

I agree that the Mara always delivers and then some and am glad to hear that you are on the mend. The jackal sunrise shot from your final drive in MNC is beautiful (...a nice way for me to start a Monday morning). Looking forward to more ol P. We've visited there once and agree there is good general game viewing (plus oryx and tons of rhino). I really like their conservation model - transforming a group of ranches into a conservancy with blended revenue stream (tourism, agriculture and still some cattle ranching).

Thanks.

 

Oryx? Are there? Where I wonder? I haven't had a really good sighting of oryx for years. Cheetahs are leading oryx 4-0 for me at Ol Pejeta. Oryx are equal with the leopards and pangolins.... and kudu.

 

 

I've only been to Ol Pejeta once but have seen oryx there but that was 10 years ago. Pelican House appears to have a lovely setting. Looking forward to more yawning.

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Excellent pictures form the Ol Pejeta teaser post. Particularly liked the landscapes- zebras with Mt Kenya looming way above and the 100mm multi shot panoramic stitch.

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@@pault

 

AMAZING reports - thank you so much!!!! WONDERFUL photos - omg, I'm green with envy!!! trying to figure out how to take something bigger than my 80-200 f2.8 because I know 300mm is the minimum to get anything decent... thinking of asking dear friend who's a guide if I can borrow the telephoto he doesn't like -- if I break it, I've bought it, keep it real terms... : ) -- sigh...

 

Your narrative makes me reluctant to post anything about my two visits to Kenya, but that's incentive to get better photos next time... sometimes I think I miss so much by trying to capture the images, but that's part of my mentality - in my genes, so to speak.

 

But your lion, cheetah and leopard photos - the hornbill with the snake - all of it... the dogs, hyenas, the hippos!!!!! OMG - and I love your little motto: Waiting again... for the next time again - oh yeah, can definitely relate to that!!!

 

Thank you for sharing - looking forward to more!!!

 

PS I did catch the safaritalk flight mention at the beginning and thought it was cute and on purpose! @@pault @@Game Warden

Edited by Lala
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Love the expanse of sky here. Portrait orientation was an excellent choice here.

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@@Marks You are developing a photographer's eye. We have to get you another new camera!! :D Seriously, I am sure everyone enjoys your positive and thoughtful comments.

 

@Lala I am glad you enjoyed it. You should never worry about other folks' naratives when telling your own - if I did that I'd never wrtie anything either. Show and tell!

 

"......sometimes I think I miss so much by trying to capture the images, but that's part of my mentality - in my genes, so to speak" There, that is already a very interesting comment - a great place to start. Bet you plenty of people relate to that.

 

An 80-200? A real old school zoom range (all seem to be 70-200 nowadays). For what it is worth, more than 60% of my photos are shot in the 100 to 300 mm focal range, on a full frame camera. . If you have a "crop sensor" camera, then your 80-200 will give you almost exactly that focal length. So you could certainly take most of my shots in theory. In practice, you may not be able to crop as much as I can (although actually I cropped little this trip). If you are full frame you will be short for sure.

 

Anyway, look at bettel's report (BBC moments). She said she shoots with a 70-200 (possibly with a teleconvertor too, not sure - but you could ask her) and she got tons of great stuff, If that's what you have and a guide like Jonathon or Nelson knows that, they'll probably get you in range more than you would have thought possible.

 

Of course longer would be better, and sure I used 400mm on a crop sensor (so effectively 600mm, but it's not quite that simple) for e.g. the hunt sequences, and you could do with your friend's lens for that - but I imagine you could rent something decent for relatively little money if you are in the US...... but 80-200 isn't the end of the world.

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gorgeous serval in #147

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We ended up at Pelican House almost by mistake. With 9 nights planned for the Mara conservancies I wanted to go somewhere different or do something different and, if possible, to keep the overall cost down a bit.. My first thoughts were the Aberdares, Samburu and Tsavo but for whatever reason I couldn't get my wife enthusiastic about any of them except the Aberdares. In her defence, she denies this now, so it must have been my imagination. Anyway, with a return to Meru impossible without a return to Elsa's Kopje (again possibly my imagination) our agent suggested Pelican House (among others, including Laikipia Wilderness Camp, which I imagined was vetoed for this trip because "no walking after Uganda" was a criteria - really my imagination is way too vivid). We then came up with the idea of inviting some of my family (surely at least Bibi - who cannot of course be Bibi in Kenya). We had many months to convince them. By the time we had booked and paid for everything, for two people pelican House wasn't going to be that much cheaper than Kicheche Laikipia had been (well $150 pppn difference so not nothing) but we never expected to be there as two.

 

However, as time passed our sure things fell through. My neice had been in Malawi on one of these "students save the worl" things and lreally enjoyed it, and her boyfriend had African connections, and loved Africa too. They were keen to return. But then she brioke up with him and about the same tiome got one of her dream jobs almost straight out of university. End of..... My brother was keen but his wife isn't fond of spriders and insect life. She finds it tough at a luxury beach resort in Thailand. I had to be frank with him that I thought it was a bit of a risk, although as it turned out there were very few visible insects and lizards and bats and stuff. I should have lied. Finally all these and more decided to go to visit my sister in Spain for the summer festival (aka week long binge) and took Bibi with them. We were dumped.

 

By this time though, I didn't want to drop it. We'd go this way with a guide and vehicle and hiring one of the conservancy chefs.

 

One factor in this decision was my non-binding decision to try to spend more of my money supporting "worthy causes" (the inverted commas are not cynical but simply a realistic acknowledgment that the road to nowhere is paved with the best intentions and the future can be a little cloudy). So, $100+ per day per person to the Mara conservancies was okay, and supporting the camps in the conservancies actually just as important since one could not be without the other. However, I want to do better than that if I can, and $600+ per day for two straight into the Ol Pejeta coffers? I can probably expect my call from the Vatican or Buckingham Palace soon if I keep this up!

 

Seriously, you should all try this. Any talent for creative thinking or creative accounting at all and you're a sure winner. It's only if you start telling people about it that you'll sound like a self-deluding character from a rather good US indie comedy of manners set in California. Oh!

 

Well that will teach me to keep my mouth shut. This sharing stuff can be so embarrassing - you might be out there judging me after all.

 

 

I can't possibly start discussing our arrival and stuff on page 9 of my report, so let's jump to the road from Nairobi to Nanyuki - in the Landcruiser with Francis, the guide supplied by Gamewatchers. We hoped to be in Nanyuki before 11 am but it took a good deal longer in the end, mostly due to the Nairobi traffic. We planned to stop and shop for a couple of days food in Nanyuki and then maybe come back our with the chef one afternoon to top up. Everything was cool at first, with us deciding to support local (future Vatican or Palace researchers please note) and shop for fruit and vegatables at a roadside stall. We learned Francis was a real mark at this point as he headed straight for the stall manned by a pre-teen girl. Does she oiwn it Francis? Do you think it is good to encourage parents to send their 11 year olds out to sell vegetables by the side of the hghway on a Saturday? In what way is this stall more virtuous that the one owned and run by the old lady over there?

 

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But of course I said none of that as I noticed that the vegetables and fruit looked very good at this stall, and suspected his decision had everything to do with that and nothing to do with the child manning it. Another reminder that sometimes it's much better to keep your mouth shut. We bought quite a lot and an hour later were wishing that we had bought much more because, when we arrived at Nakumatt supermarket in Nanyuki we found that their vegetables and fruit were not nearly as good, especially on a Saturday. The layout was mightily confusing too, but after about six circuits we had everything we needed. We were really disoriented though - neither of us much likes shopping in this way and all the unfamiliar brands to choose from made everything extra chore-like. As a result of this disorientation and wish to get out of there, the warm feeling of accomplishment we had as we returned to the Landcruiser with a laden shopping trolley didn't last all that long. I won't keep on inserting all the revelations that followed over the next three days into the story of Ol Pejeta - not because it wouldnt be good story-telling (it certainly would - a perfect running joke) but because I will forget to insert them. So here are some excerpts from conversations over those days.

 

 

Cook: Where is the milk?

 

Wife: In the fridge in the cartons.

 

Cook: There's only Lala here.

 

Wife: Yes, that's it.

 

Cook: No. Lala is like yoghurt. Oh no...

 

Wife: Oh no....

 

 

Wife: Where is the butter?

 

Me: Oh, no....... Well, we have lots of lala.

 

 

Me: You can cook the chicken for lunch tomorrow.

 

Cook: Sure. I'll get it.....

 

.

 

.

 

.

 

Cook: I think you'd better come and have a look at the chicken- doesn’t look so good..

 

Me: Awww that stinks... throw it away

 

Wife: Did you check the sell by date when you bought it?

 

Me: Is that even a serious question? Of course not.

 

 

Cook: What spices and stuff do you have?

 

Wife: Errr, I think we have some salt, and some basil, and I brought some white pepper from Thailand. (She really did!!)

 

Cook:I can't cook with that.

 

(But he did, after borrowing some supplies from somewhere)

 

 

Lesson one: When you make a shopping list, look at it and buy everything on it.

 

Lesson two: Cook goes shopping (but there is a lesson three about this coming later).

 

 

Just to give you a picture of how easy it is to go shopping, it's about a 2 hour round trip to Nanyuki from Pelican House at the moment, as the road is being redone, meaning detours on goat-filled backroads. Parking and unparking at Nakumatt takes another 20 minutes.

 

That is probably enough True Safarista stories for this post. I seem to have rambled a bit, which will be a real shock to you I know.'I'll save our domestic issues for the next installment as, like me, I am sure you can't wait to get the food packed away in the fridge and out into the conservancy to see what the evening might bring.

I won't go chronologically, but I think these pictures are all from the first evening, morning and evening drive (but not everything notable from those dtives of course - we had a pretty good start.).

 

 

 

Evening with the jackals..

 

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Ol Pejeta, like much of Kenya, was really dry going in to October and sun and wind were not making things better. Food was in short supply for the grazers, but since the boreholes dug when this was a cattle farm are still there, and maintained, there are at leasr three pumped waterholes in the concession. There are also a few dams (again, this refers to reservoirs, not blockages in a river).. With a permanent river too, water is plentiful year-round.

 

 

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You can see how little grass there is in the following pictures too, and one of the pumpeed waterholes, but that is not why I am posting these pictures. That would be to introduce this little guy, who we first met skipping and charging across the plains on our first morning out. Just a few months old I think. I have to warn you, these won;t be the last pictures of him. We'd meet him a couple more times and he was too cute not to photograph.

 

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At first glance, before having a proper look, he appeared to be a warthog behaving very strangely - in fact we were straining to see what was chasing hte warthog. However, with the aid of binoculatrs we saw what it was and got a bit closer (no offroading is allowed at Ol Pejeta without specific permission - and then only in the wilderness area. The camps there have the necessary permission).

 

Closer we saw what he was doing.... going nuts. He was charging away from his mother...

 

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And then charging back even faster, sometimes flying he was going so fast (well relative to his little legs),

 

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And sometimes he'd break, jump around a bit, and charge his mother, always braking and veering away before he hit her and injured himself.

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They were heading to water, and fortunately that brough them much, much closer to us.

 

Once there, both drank, but the littel one preferred milk.

 

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While mother rhino was still drinking some male bufffalos appeared over a rise, coming to water themselves.

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We thought they would not get a look in, but surprisingly the mother decided not to take them on, presumably becauise of having such a young calf. Or maybe she had just had enough to drink.

 

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However, that decision nearly proved fatal for the calf, as she stepped on him when backing away from the waterhole, keeping her face to the buffalo intruders.

 

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Ouch, sore foot!! No more running around for the little one until after a recuperative nap. He'd be compeltely fine by the way - on four feet most of the time already and the pain seemed to be forgotten in a few minutes.

 

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First lion of the trip was a male, chilling next to the road. Always nice to see your first lion - relives a bit of tension I always think.

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Zebras just after sunset.(well technically not sunset but the sun was behind the hills already, so near-as).

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More waffle and rhinos to come.

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fine writing and fine photos - as always @@pault - see, you do have talents even if you don't know how to shop

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Enjoying the waffle - and excellent photos

A very cute baby rhino, a handsome lion and excellent buffalo

I look forward to more!

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A flying baby rhino :) I was looking for somewhere to stay as an add on to our planned trip to Umani Springs and Ithumba and I think I've found it thanks. Pen

Edited by penolva
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The baby rhino is adorable - love the 'flying' picture.

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You should have told us you have room for more at Pelican House, Paul - we would all have come!

 

Then again, that´s probably why you didn´t do that. :)

 

Love the flying Rhino calf!

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armchair bushman

As usual, superb photography all around. Really like your teaser shots of Ol Pej. Love the flying baby rhino.

 

And, may I say that I couldn't have described Ol Pejeta better myself than you did in your opening 2 paragraphs of introduction to this leg of the trip. Very well-described indeed.

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RIF - rhino in flight. One to add to my list of most wanted sightings.

What a treat it must have been to watch the youngster enjoying life

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I practically collapsed back into bed but woke up at 5 feeling fine - like I could go on a game drive. My wife did not think that was a good idea and, just in case it was concussion-related, I thought I should follow her clear-headed advice. So I basically wasted a whole day in Africa in bed, ill. A real first. It was kind of like malaria, but of course it wasn't. No idea what hit me and how could it be a coincidence that I hit my head the ngiht before - or was that because i was already getting sick? And how could there be a link? Who knows? I was 100% next day, but that was unfortunately our day to drive to the aristrip for a morning flight. Almost a sad end (except of course it wasn't really).

 

 

just catching up the last - like 8 pages.

 

I spent an entire day at Serian Main in February too, sick to the guts but no fever. hmmmm.

 

but I have no quarrel about where I would be sick and be spending a day lying in.

Edited by Kitsafari
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love this - so moody

 

and this: the calmness of the elephants in sharp contrast to the stress and frenzy emanating from the rushing zebras and wildebeests (and a couple of topis?) in the river

 

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