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Madikwe and Entabeni Game Reserves, Drakensberg, Golden Gate Highlands NP and Kingdom of Lesotho - September/October 2015


FlyTraveler

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Sept. 23, 2015. Madikwe Game Reserve, afternoon game drive.

 

I continue with the images from this first game drive - a couple of Lilac-breasted rollers:

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A lonely Zebra:

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Many of you are probably familiar with Madikwe, but just a few words about the reserve. This is a semi-arid terrain, something like a transitional area between the lowveld of Kruger NP and the arid terrain of Kalahari. All animals have been re-introduced in the early 90-s (the massive Project Phoenix). The reserve is completely fenced, but since it is 750 km2 we saw the fence only once or twice for 6 days stay. There are power lines crossing the reserve which is annoying, but we have seen them only several times.

On with the game drive and two photos of a Southern yellow-billed hornbill:

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I was concerned how will my daughter feel during her first ever game drive and felt a relief when she said that this was the nicest thing in the world:

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Here is Murray, changing a flat tire:

 

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Time for a sundowner:

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Madikwe sunset with dry Leadwood trees:

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And another Leadwood tree with nests of some type of Buffalo weavers:

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After dark we saw this lone wildebeest:

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At dinner we were always seating with Murray and our vehicle-mates for the day. Great food and atmosphere. After the main course lions came to the waterhole for a drink, but the light was too low for photos.

Edited by FlyTraveler
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The elephant photos in post #25 are beautiful. I find the hilly backdrop very appealing.

Glad your daughter looks to be having fun.

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Hi FlyTraveler ,

 

Your daughter truly looks thrilled to be on safari. How wonderful you got to show her the "Most interesting thing in the world." A comment like that makes any irritation on a trip insignificant. Beautiful pictures! I think sunsets are your specialty and they are great. I will be enjoying following your trip report especially this part on Madikwe. Looks like you picked a good time to go when in was relatively cool.

 

Terry

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"His parents have given him a male cheetah cub when he's been 12 years"

No fair. I only got Hot Wheels and marbles at that age.

 

I am very interested in how this transfer and guiding business will work for Madikwe. Do you recall how long it was or the distance between Joburg and Madikwe? It could not have been long if you had time for lunch and a game drive. Eric was just the transfer guy, right.

 

"Nicest thing in the world." Just warms your heart and your daughter's expression backs up those words.

 

The rollers were especially colorful, with the one revealing its underside.

 

Why did you choose Tau?

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I´m very jealous of two people now:

 

1.) Eric! A Cheetah as a present with 11 years? Oh, how he must have bragged at school. ("I got a few books and a bike for Christmas, what did you get, Erci?" - "Oh, nothing much, just a Cheetah!")

2) Emma! If my parents had taken me on safari as a child it would have been "the nicest thing in the world", and I´m glad for you she felt that way, too.

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The elephant photos in post #25 are beautiful. I find the hilly backdrop very appealing.

Glad your daughter looks to be having fun.

 

Thanks, @@Marks! The nicest elephants shots that I took in Madikwe where from the veranda of our chalet at Tau Game Lodge, I will post many of them later on in the report.

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Hi FlyTraveler ,

 

Your daughter truly looks thrilled to be on safari. How wonderful you got to show her the "Most interesting thing in the world." A comment like that makes any irritation on a trip insignificant. Beautiful pictures! I think sunsets are your specialty and they are great. I will be enjoying following your trip report especially this part on Madikwe. Looks like you picked a good time to go when in was relatively cool.

 

Terry

 

Hi @@Terry, thanks for the good words! The weather was great, indeed - not too hot, we didn't have cold mornings either - the end of the dry season, so it was always busy at the waterhole of the lodge. BTW, once in a while I return to your Klaserie and Timbavati TR to enjoy it...

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"His parents have given him a male cheetah cub when he's been 12 years"

No fair. I only got Hot Wheels and marbles at that age.

 

I am very interested in how this transfer and guiding business will work for Madikwe. Do you recall how long it was or the distance between Joburg and Madikwe? It could not have been long if you had time for lunch and a game drive. Eric was just the transfer guy, right.

 

"Nicest thing in the world." Just warms your heart and your daughter's expression backs up those words.

 

The rollers were especially colorful, with the one revealing its underside.

 

Why did you choose Tau?

 

Well, I didn't mention for nothing that Eric wasn't just an ordinary driver. :) He was just the transfer guy, correct.

 

For the duration of the trip from Joburg, it depends which part of Madikwe you are going to. We went to the northern-most part, so we entered the reserve from the Molatedi Gate in the south, then drove through the reserve, exited, drove on the road to Gabarone, then turned to the right just before the Botswana border and re-entered via Tau Gate. In total I would say about four and a half - five hours. Eric took us from Madikwe to Entabeni, as well. Both transfers were arranged by Tau Game Lodge.

 

Thanks for the good words about my daughter (and the roller's remark).

 

Why did I choose Tau... To be perfectly honest, I got it dirt cheap via a big web portal for hotel reservations. After I made the reservation, I emailed it to the lodge for confirmation, they replied and wrote that I have not included my daughter and demanded extra 800 dollars. I forwarded to them the reservation, where is clearly stated 1 adult and 1 six years old child. Exchanged several emails with the web portal and the lodge, basically telling them that I have purchased international airfare based on this price and that they should figure out between themselves who is going to pay the difference. One week later I received an email from the lodge stating that they are accepting the reservation as it is.

 

The second reason was that the house waterhole at Tau was on the top ten list of African Geographic. The lodge also offered all comforts, swimming pool and kids club, which was important for a first impression on safari for my daughter.

 

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I´m very jealous of two people now:

 

1.) Eric! A Cheetah as a present with 11 years? Oh, how he must have bragged at school. ("I got a few books and a bike for Christmas, what did you get, Erci?" - "Oh, nothing much, just a Cheetah!")

2) Emma! If my parents had taken me on safari as a child it would have been "the nicest thing in the world", and I´m glad for you she felt that way, too.

 

Eric mentioned that when he's been at school, he had an argument with a rude schoolmate of his who later came to hustle him at home. Eric has let him in, but when the other boy saw a couple of free walking male adult lions just ran like hell and never came back or hustled him at school again. :)

 

I really hope that Emma will develop a true love and appreciation for African wildlife, she enjoyed the safari very much, but at her age, she was at least equally impressed by the amusement park in Joburg. :)

Edited by FlyTraveler
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Sept. 24, 2015. Madikwe Game Reserve, morning game drive.

 

As I mentioned above we would receive a wake-up call from Murray at 05:30 h every morning. I would actually set the alarm of my phone for 05:00 h, in order to have enough time to prepare Emma for the game drive. 05:45 h sharp we would be at the meeting point on the terrace in front of the bar for a short early morning chat with other guests and a cookie with water (neither Emma, nor I drink coffee or tea).

 

I had my good 11 years old Nikon D50 with me with a 18-70 mm kit lens for wider shots. Here are some taken early in the morning:

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The first sighting for this morning drive was a Go-away bird:

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Steenbok again (male). Lots of them in Madikwe, but very skittish and difficult to photograph:

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One of the very few times when we saw the fence of the reserve:

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Madikwe "kopjes", these granite stones reminded me a bit of some areas of Ruaha NP in Tanzania:

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Here Murray got out of the vehicle to show us Impala droppings. Couldn't quite figure out the meaning of this:

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Sept. 24, 2015. Madikwe Game Reserve, morning game drive.

 

I can't recall seeing such an empty flat space without any grass (not a sand riverbed either) at any park or reserve in Africa:

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Next we saw a female Greater kudu which was on it's way to a muddy waterhole:

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Down there were the rest of the group:

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There are birds in front of this Greater kudu, are those some sort of Doves (@@michael-ibk or anyone else)?

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After finishing drinking the Kudus went up the slope:

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Here half of the group looked at us:

 

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Edited by FlyTraveler
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Sept. 24, 2015. Madikwe Game Reserve, morning game drive.

 

It's not difficult to guess that this tree has been broken by an elephant:

 

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Some other scenery shots:

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The evergreen Shepard's Tree:

 

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A lone wildebeest:

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Edited by FlyTraveler
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Sept. 24, 2015. Madikwe Game Reserve, morning game drive.

 

Some Zebra photos:

 

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Harem of Impalas:

 

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Again an evergreen Shepard's Tree:

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@@FlyTraveler thanks for posting the transfer details to Madikwe, always useful to know.

 

I can recommend Rob Bentley for transfers out of Joberg and his price may be competitive when compared with the ususal transfer companies - food for thought for the future! I have his email somewhere.

 

The Madikwe scenery is amazing and I like the photo of the two LBRs.

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are those some sort of Doves (@michael-ibk or anyone else)?

 

Since I do not see a ring at the neck, I am thinking Laughing Dove.

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@@FlyTraveler thanks for posting the transfer details to Madikwe, always useful to know.

 

I can recommend Rob Bentley for transfers out of Joberg and his price may be competitive when compared with the ususal transfer companies - food for thought for the future! I have his email somewhere. Joburg to Madikwe transfers?

 

The Madikwe scenery is amazing and I like the photo of the two LBRs.

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I had not realized that the Madikwe scenery would be so varied in addition to being so beautiful. I am becoming increasingly interested!

Looking forward to those veranda eles.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Sept. 24, 2015. Madikwe Game Reserve, morning game drive.

 

Well, Happy New Year everyone! After quite a long break, I'll try to continue my TR about this trip to South Africa.

 

Leadwood tree with Buffalo weaver's nests:

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Dry Leadwood tree:

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My very first Klipspringer sighting - male and female couple:

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Madikwe scenery shot - small hills, kopje type:

 

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On the way back we saw a group of zebras in front of the lodge:

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A view of the waterhole and the chalets of Tau Game Lodge, you can see how close the wild animals come to the verandas:

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Red hartebeest in front of the lodge (can not remember seeing those since my first safari trip in Kenya):

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Sept. 24, 2015. Tau Lodge, Madikwe Game Reserve.

 

More photos of Red hartebeest in front of Tau Lodge:

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Impalas in front of the lodge:

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Views from the restaurant (it is kind of difficult to have a meal, there are always wild animals to photograph around or in the waterhole):

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Black-headed heron flying in front of an elephant:

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The resident Egyptian geese couple:

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Edited by FlyTraveler
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Sept. 24, 2015. Tau Lodge, Madikwe Game Reserve.

 

I continue with more images taken from the restaurant terrace during breakfast. A couple of young bulls sparring at the waterhole:

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Slightly wider shot, showing the scenery in front of the lodge:

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Zebras at the waterhole:

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Hi @@FlyTraveler

 

I am glad to see that you are continuing to work on your trip report. I am enjoying your pictures of the animals and birds especially those that we have not been able to see - Red hartebeest , Black-headed heron, and the Klipspringers.

 

I must confess that we were in Madikwe a month later than you, staying not that far south of you at The Bush House, but the animals there were seemed to be more limited to the Kruger varieties. We were told that to see all the animals of Madikwe, we should stay in different areas, but I never dreamed just a few miles to the north would make such a difference.

 

Looking forward to the all the rest of your stories and pictures.

Edited by Terry
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Yep, I would also have a hard time focusing on eating when presented with such waterhole activity!

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Hi @@FlyTraveler

 

I am glad to see that you are continuing to work on your trip report. I am enjoying your pictures of the animals and birds especially those that we have not been able to see - Red hartebeest , Black-headed heron, and the Klipspringers.

 

I must confess that we were in Madikwe a month later than you, staying not that far south of you at The Bush House, but the animals there were seemed to be more limited to the Kruger varieties. We were told that to see all the animals of Madikwe, we should stay in different areas, but I never dreamed just a few miles to the north would make such a difference.

 

Looking forward to the all the rest of your stories and pictures.

 

Hi Terry,

 

Thanks for the encouragement! I wonder if you have a TR about your safari in Madikwe (I must confess that I have not checked all the late reports yet)? Did you see the wild dogs? I am really curious about this, since the guy who drove us from Johannesburg to Madikwe mentioned that he knew where the wild dogs' den was (somewhere in the southern part of the reserve), and recommended that we should ask our guide about it. When I asked the guide, he said that the dogs have changed their den and no one has seen them since that happened. It is hard for me to believe that they don't know where such important for the reserve animals are, I would assume that they are trying to limit the visitors who are getting close to the dogs or the den was really far from Tau Game Lodge and there wasn't enough time to get there. These are only an assumptions, though...

Once we left earlier for the afternoon game drive and drove to the southern end of Madikwe (all the way to the Catholic mission ruins and the reserve HQ) in order to see the four cheetah brothers and I got the impression, that there are more interesting animals in the southern part of the reserve. More giraffes for sure (there are more trees there), a coalition of four male lions etc. What are your impressions about this?

 

P. S. I was hesitating between Tau Lodge and The Bush House, since those were the lower priced options in the reserve (there is another one, as well - camp with a great location in the middle of the reserve, but their toilets were outside and I wanted a bit higher level of comfort because of my daughter), finally I decided to go to Tau, because of the waterhole.

Edited by FlyTraveler
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Yep, I would also have a hard time focusing on eating when presented with such waterhole activity!

 

I'm telling you, one can starve to death at this lodge, Marks :) Once I tried not to take my camera to the restaurant during lunch in order to eat properly, it was worse - I had to run to the chalet to get the camera... :)

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