Zambia walking safari June 2015 report (six months late)

[deano]

@@ZaminOz - thank you. I've enjoyed writing it and re-living the trip and I am looking forward to our return there next year. I try to explain to my friends and family that even though we are going back to the same place it will be different. But they just don't get it.

[deano]

Day 15 (last day) - Old Mondoro:

 

We got the choice last night of how we wanted to treat our last morning in Lower Zambezi and we decided on a slightly later alarm call and then a hot shower followed by a full cooked breakfast which was ready for us as we walked to the fire area one last time. That would give us time for a leisurely drive to the airstrip which would serve as a final game drive. After breakfast with all the trimmings we said our goodbyes and hopped onto the vehicle with Sebastian and set off into the Winterthorn trees to see what LZNP would show us today.

 

Just as we got onto the plains we saw Maggie and her cubs. We had spent a lot of time with them in the last few days and it was nice to see them - all together but looking a bit nervous. Must be a scary world for a single lioness with 3 cubs. They were making it tough to see them today and when they disappeared into thick bush I thought that was it but Sebastian took us down onto a dry river bed where they sat and looked at us. No need to drive up close and risk them running away and it just felt right today to watch them from afar.

 

 

 

We stayed for a while and then drove back up to and along the plain. I could see the airstrip and didn't want to leave but as the saying goes, all good things come to an end, and, sadly, it was time for this good thing to end. But not before a cheeky elephant decided to delay us a bit.

 

 

 

He eventually got out of the way and as we rounded the last bend before the airstrip itself we saw a wonderful African scene. A large breeding herd of elephants just going about their business like they had thousands of times before and would thousands of times again. It was lovely to watch. They didn't do much. They didn't need to. If you've seen a similar scene then you just know what I mean. We were just there sharing that place and time with them and I enjoyed every single second.

 

 

 

We left them and got to the airstrip with time to spare. Sebastian parked up and we got out for a cup of hot chocolate while we waited in the middle of a plain in the middle of Africa for a small aircraft to come and fetch us. Time for one last panorama of this fabulous place.

 

 

And then we boarded the plane and took off to the sight of Sebastian waving his arms as a goodbye (a really nice touch that he stayed until we had got airborne) and the pilot dipped the wings of the plane so that we could see a lovely herd of elephants on the plain below us. We had just been sat with them minutes earlier and now we watched them from up high plodding through the grass towards the woodland and the Zambezi beyond. Amazing.

 

 

Thanks to all who have read, commented on and liked this report. I have genuinely loved every minute of writing it and will be back next year with a follow up report when we visit South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi again. The only thing is....now that I have seen wild dogs and got my leopard in tree shot - what else should I wish for...............

 

[Alexander33]

@@deano

 

Oh, there will be plenty more things to wish for, believe me. You will strike one thing off your list, and then add two more. I can't wait for Zambia, Part II.

 

Speaking of which, regarding the elephant blocking your way en route to the airstrip, we had the same thing happen to us on our last safari, only with a giraffe. I like to think it's Africa's way of saying, "Don't go." Not that we need much convincing to return, do we?

 

This has been a tremendously enjoyable trip report. Thank you for sharing your experiences with us. Until next time.....

[xelas]

@@deano

 

I have enjoyed reading your trip report and looking at your photos! Slim chances that I will ever got there so at least I do know the place better now. One thing that I have been able to "copy" from you was to buy a bottle of Jameson, and I am toasting with it to yours and mine and everyone's else adventures in 2016!

[deano]

@@Alexander33 - I agree; the animals are just reminding us that they will still be there doing their thing after we leave.Thanks for following and I hope to capture images of juggling pangolins on the next trip...is that too much to ask?

 

@@xelas - Thanks for reading but never say never; I always find that it you want something bad enough you'll find a way (so find the way my friend). And great call on the Jamesons and I toast you straight back and wish you good health and as many trips to Africa as you can fit in!

[michael-ibk]

I don´t need to buy a bottle of Jameson - always in the house, it´s as essential as milk!

 

Thanks for this report, it was a joy to read, especially because of your enthusiasm for all things Africa! Lower Zambezi is so often perceived as one of Zambia´s "lesser" parks, in the shadow of South Luangwa (or Mana on the opposite side). You are proving here how untrue that perception is - I love the scenery, and you had magnificent sightings. Those Leopard shots in the tree are just wonderful, and then the one at night - super! You´ve done really well with the night time shots, wonderfully crisp and clear, kudos to you. I confess I really struggled with the red light, but was also told it´s better for the animals. If that´s correct, then more red power to night drives! I am jealous about the (relative) abundance of porcupine sightings you seem to have had.

 

The Kayak tour photos are just beautiful, and you have some awesome lion shots in there. Not sure I got this, on your first morning, did you approach Maggie and the cubs on foot?

 

Off having a Jameson now.

[deano]

@@michael-ibk - Many thanks. Jamesons is added to tea, coffee and hot chocolate in our house too so that makes it at least = to milk although I haven't tried it on corn flakes as of yet.

 

We did really like Lower Zambezi; there was a line in one of the posts in your current trip report about Mana where you talk about the most beautiful place on earth and that is exactly how I felt too (I will find it and quote it properly as I am still going back through that awesome report of yours).

 

As for the night images, I had read somewhere that there is a way to play with the colours in Photoshop and get an almost 'normal' looking image but I haven't had any success so the B&W was sort of the only conversion I could use. As for the shots themselves, nothing to do with me - Nikon D750 with as high an ISO as I dared (6400 or even 12800); wide aperture and a shutter speed to suit the focal length and provided the animals weren't moving too fast then the shots are useable and sort of atmospheric and it was nice that we swapped e-mails with fellow guests and they all seemed to want copies of the night time animals; the Nikon also has highlight weighted metering and spot metering and they both worked well as did the autofocus and I am looking forward to trying video next year with that combination (might even use one of those special effects modes that boosts ISO and creates a night vision effect - I'll do my very best to get you a porcupine!

 

The kayak trip was a highlight for us and we will not hesitate to do that again if at all possible. As for Maggie, no - we never saw her on foot but there is always next year.....

 

And my turn for Jamesons is just about here so I'm signing off; thanks again.

[Atravelynn]

"Sebastian was lead guide so that put me...right at the front!"

Best seat in the house. But it is still easy to miss 200-300 croc shots. Those things are so stealthy in the water entrance. Great job on the hippos and even lions from the kayak (or as I say, canoe). Great night shots of the lion cubs and porcupine.

[AfricIan]

Many thanks for taking us to Zambia @@deano, I've thoroughly enjoyed the journey with you. I can also empathise with your "leopard in a tree" wish as it was, until our trip to the Kafue, on my hope-to-see list as well - We went from 0 to 3 in two days, including this classic!

 

 

Looks like 2015 was a good one for both of us & roll on next year!

Edited December 31, 2015 by AfricIan

[Safaridude]

@@deano

 

That is pretty magical what happened with the wild dogs at Luangwa. I had an experience like that once… dogs at the last moment. It seems things are sometimes supernatural in Africa. Thanks for a great report.

[optig]

I once experienced a pack of 30 dogs at the last moment just as I was leaving Mana Pools after 6 days of pursuing them with no success. They were leaving after a kill. It really made my stay at Mana a truly memorable one.

[Marks]

This has been a very fun report, and I'm glad you joined ST to share it with us.

 

Off having a Jameson now.

For me it's a Scotch this evening, but nonetheless I will toast it to @@deano's next trip!

[deano]

@@Atravelynn - thanks; I did enjoy the dark nights in LZNP in particular and was pleased to get some half decent images. That porcupine and a decent camera made it quite easy though.

 

@@AfricIan - thank you too but why did you have to remind me that I still need a leopard in tree picture with legs dangled over a branch? Brilliant image and my quest for a sighting like that with an image of my own is just one of the reasons I keep going back to Africa.

 

@@Safaridude - thank you also; Supernatural is probably one of the best words I've seen applied to Africa. I have just told my friends here in Cayman that we have booked a return trip to SA in December 2016 and all I am getting asked is "...you are going back to Africa again...?". My boss asked me the same question and I just replied "...if you'd been, you'd know...".

 

@@optig - thanks; 30 dogs! Wow. I bet that was amazing. I get excited by 30 impalas so painted wolves would probably be too much and maybe just enough for me (and my wife) to miss the flight! One of our fellow passengers was telling us how the pilot had asked him to assist in running off a small dazzle of zebras at a remote airstrip somewhere in Africa. I wonder how my boss would react to that as an excuse for being late home?

 

@@Marks - cheers to you. As my excitement builds now that our next trip to Zambia is only 5 full moons away my Jamesons intake is on the increase; in fact if I am on Safaritalk after a certain hour it is my daily ''sundowner'' when not on safari.

 

Thanks again and kind regards.

 

Deano.

[optig]

We all know just how addictive safaris are. I have already been on 8, and will take at least two this year. Why do you think that I moved to Nairobi?

[AfricIan]

So sorry @@deano I didn't mean to upset you . If its any consolation, that was our first leopard-in-tree in 10 trips to East & Southern Africa and it took ~4 hours from when we first saw it to getting that image! Roll on the 5 full moons & I hope your next trip is as rewarding as this last one has been

[Fredweinman]

Incredible trip report, we leave for the same area in 149 days. Which travel agents did you us or did you book yourself?

[deano]

@@Fredweinman - many thanks (you caught me just as I logged on tonight) - we will be there also at that time (6th June 2016) and we are using a travel agency based in SA that we have used for all of our past trips to Africa (five) - East Cape Tours.

 

If you haven't been before you will love it. If you have been before then you know you will love it. Either way. You will love it!

[Fredweinman]

Many thanks for your reply. We have not been but we already love it! We start at Kapamba on the 12th of June and then work thru Chinzombo and Chiawa. Do we cross paths?

[deano]

@@Fredweinman - looks like we are about a week in front of you and we leave for LZNP a couple of days after you arrive in SLNP. Looking forward to your views on Chinzombo ; we saw it from across the Luangwa one day and it looked like a fantastic place and in a great location. I hope you enjoy your trip.

 

Kind regards

 

deano.

[Hads]

Great report Deano - Loved the tigerfish pic.

Also your photo's and writing is superb.

[deano]

@@Hads - Thank you. You really do flatter me with your comments. Glad you liked the tigerish...taken with an iPhone.

[californiagal1017]

Deano, thoroughly enjoyed your trip report, thank you!

 

I will be in Zambia also this June and just like you will wind my trip up in Old Mondoro. Your trip report has me wildly excited! I was worried that it might be too early in the season but looks like you had some amazing sightings. Hope I will be that lucky also.

Quick question for you, please... How was the weather? Packing always makes me extra anxious. I thought it would be very chilly at that time but I see you in shorts in the pictures. Any tips?

 

Thanks again,

Anita

[deano]

Thank you @@californiagal1017 aka Anita.

 

I am wildly excited also and counting down the days.....hopefully, great sightings await us all whenever and wherever we go! If not, I'm just happy to be there anyway.

 

Weather was great for us. Blue skies and sunny each day. Definitely warm enough for shorts through the day but we found it cold early AM and late PM - more so at LZNP than SLNP maybe because of the Zambezi? Pretty much what we anticipated although you have to remember that we have lived in the Caribbean for nearly twenty years so "cold" to us is "mild" to normal folks.

 

My wife suffers more than me with the cold and bought thermals (on a shopping trip to Tampa) to sleep in and always had an anorak over a fleece over a couple of layers (mornings and nights) wherever we went but she would rather be too warm than too cold - and was...particularly on bush walks and would have to stop frequently to take off top layers as it got warmer. I managed with max of 4 layers (peel on peel off to suit) but nothing heavier than a fleece and usually just an undershirt and long sleeved shirt but i do remember pulling on a hat to sleep in on a couple occasions when it got particularly cold in the middle of the hippo chorus filled night...but we are soft and it was hardly freezing.

 

You soon get warm when walking and I found it best to tough it out and be cold at the start of a walk and would soon be in shirt sleeves after an hour or so (i.e. no fleece on the walks). There was one walk at Old Mondoro where we seemed to be in the shade a lot and I was glad I had put my fleece in my back pack that day. We also had one very warm night at Old Mondoro and Ryan and Pam (hosts) couldn't figure that one out as it was positively balmy.

 

If you suffer with the cold then you might want to pack a decent jacket (squash it into a space bag if you are short on space but remember to check weight).

 

I hope that helps.

 

When are you at OM?

 

Kind regards

 

deano.

Edited February 4, 2016 by deano

[martywilddog]

No, no, no, no

 

I had finally, after going back and forth all the time made up my mind @@deano and decided to leave LZNP out of our trip and focus on SLNP only (due to budget and trip length).

 

After reading your trip report I will have to rethink all that again...

 

[deano]

Sorry @@martywilddog - I saw your comments in another thread regarding your next safari and since I've already caused you to rethink your Zambia trip....then I might as well throw in a few things; We found that the landscape in South Luangwa was quite varied in that the general woodland did vary greatly from camp to camp and there were a few open plains and dry rivers as well and it was often the case that you would experience this change in just one game drive. The area around the Luangwa itself is beautiful and I can definitely recommend Norman Carr Safaris - lovely camps and great staff and they tried very hard (and succeeded) in making their guests happy.

 

As for Lower Zambezi - just an awesome place (a word I use sparingly if at all but it is warranted in this case). It's worth it just for that amazing view you get when you fly over the Zambezi Escarpment and see the river for the first time. As with SLNP, again there is a good mix of woodland types and grassy plains but the main draw is the river. You've read my trip report so you know that the variety of activities extends way beyond game drives and a mid-day bush walk with day walks, fishing, canoe trips or just a lazy boat trip on offer. We kept in touch with some of the people we spent time with and I know that some of them opted for a trek on the lower slopes of the escarpment so it seems that all of the camps are keen to expand the usual day to day stuff within reason. We liked Old Mondoro very much - definitely the "best" place we've stayed at on our travels so far and will be visiting again in 4 months time! I can't imagine any safaritalker being disappointed with a stay in LZNP or SLNP (the only complaint they would have was that they didn't stay long enough!)

 

I'm pretty sure that a lot of the SLNP camps have sister camps in LZNP and that there are deals to be had if you combine the two.

 

Good luck with your plans and thanks for reading.

 

kind regards

 

deano.