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Kenya after the Rains (mostly): Meru, Ol Pejeta, Olare Motorogi


TonyQ

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We now had that feeling where, realising this was our last few hours in Meru, we wanted to soak it all in.

 

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Red-billed Hornbill

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White-throated Bee-eater

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Large flocks of Weaver Birds were very characteristic of Meru

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Impala in the flowers

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A group of fairly distant Gerenuk

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A final sunset and sundowner in Meru National Park.

 

Back to camp for packing and a hot bucket shower. As it approaches dinner time, we wave our torch at the front of the tent and our escort comes to collect us and we walk just past the lounge area where (as every evening) we meet around a fire for pre-dinner snacks and drinks. We then move to the dining area for an excellent final dinner with our Safaritalk friends.

 

In the morning we get an extra 30 minutes in bed, have an excellent breakfast in camp before our road transfer to Nanyuki and Kicheche Laikipia.

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Final thoughts on the first section of the trip.

 

Meru National Park was superb. We loved being there – it was beautiful with a lot of wildlife. There were very few other visitors which although nice for us, is a shame for the park. The park was very green for this time of year (it had been raining in the previous week) – but this made it very beautiful with many flowers and butterflies. We chose to go here first because we thought there would be less wildlife compared to our other destinations – but it was great.

 

The greenery provided some photographic challenges but also photographic opportunities to see animals in surroundings that were very different from our previous safaris. There are a small number of camps and I think all have a good reputation at different price points. I don’t know why it does not get more visitors (or perhaps it is just the time of year)

 

Offbeat Meru camp was excellent. The staff were very warm and friendly, food was excellent. Facilities were a bit more basic than the 2 Kicheche camps but had everything you need. The camp was pitched very well for us. Stanley, our guide was excellent (and I understand that Dominic is also excellent).

 

It would be great to go back to see it at a different time of year.

Edited by TonyQ
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Thursday's Child

I have to echo the other replies on the elephant photos. The light is really nice on them. There are some real wall hangers there. Could some of them be @@Thursday's Child productions? I noticed she was taking as many photos as you??? We have really enjoyed your report so far and the fantastic photos.

I wish I could lay claim to them, but they are all by Mr Child (aka @@TonyQ ) - but yes I also take a lot of photos!

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Really enjoyed this section, your photos brought out Meru's best. Don't think it's just the time of year (about the lack of visitors) we saw only one other car when we were there in Sept. I remember our operator actually tried to talk us out of going to Meru (and the Aberdares as well), so in many people's minds it's maybe still the "poached out park"?

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Thursday's Child

A strong memory for me of Meru is of the beauty and the general abundance of life - mammals, birds, insects, reptiles, butterflies, flowers - at times we didn't know where to look first. Looking at our photographs and videos there are so often birds flying around in the background - I'm sure 'real' birders would see lots more than we did.

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@@TonyQ We really enjoyed the Meru portion of your trip. Looking forward to the rest of your camps. We had the same opinion of starting our trip at Meru. We did not expect to see as much wildlife, which turned out not to be true, but had heard so many comments about how beautiful the park was from the Safari Talk site that it would be worth it.

 

It was so nice of you and Thursday's Child to graciously let us join your morning safari as you and Stanley rescued us from the airstrip.

 

It is too bad that we have half of the US continent and the Atlantic Ocean between our homes or we could get together and compare our safaris.

 

The bee eater photos really pop.

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your report and stunning photos are making me think that I've been away from Africa's bush for far too long....

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@@TonyQ - it goes without saying that your pictures of the birds and animals are amazing but I seem to have a thing for pics of the bush in general at the moment (my liking of winding roads is becoming a fetish I think!) and the two track in post #59 is just the sort of thing I love about Africa and that sunset (sunrise) in post #87 with the palms is stunning. That would be on a whole wall at my house if I'd taken it.

 

Great report.

 

kind regards

 

deano.

Edited by deano
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I really like your two-headed giraffe! The colors on the giraffes are such a rich shade of reddish brown. They are just beautiful. Your last sunset is spectacular - should be framed and on your wall.

 

Looking forward to stories of Nanyuki and Kicheche Laikipia.

 

Terry

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@@michael-ibk

Thank you. When we talked to our agent about going to Meru, they were really positive about it - especially for people who had been on safari before. How strange to try to talk you out of going - I wonder if they had been recently?

@@mapumbo

Thank you - the Atlantic is a bit of a barrier!

@@Alexander33

Thank you

@@Kitsafari

It hasn't been that long has it? But it will be good to get back...

@@deano

Thank you for your kind comments

@@Terry

Thank you.Kicheche Laikipia coming up!

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The next stage of our journey was a road transfer to Nanyuki. The journey took us through Meru National Park and then through the gate onto the roads. We passed through a number of small villages, past tiny shops and small fields of maize. As we got nearer to Nanyuki, the people looked noticeably less poor than those in the Meru area. The Nanyuki area has a number of businesses growing flowers and vegetables for export. We were pleased we did a road transfer as it took us briefly outside of the safari bubble.

 

We drove into Nanyuki, a busy little town, and were dropped off at Dormans Coffee Shop, where the Kicheche vehicle and our guide were there to meet us. Our guide was Andrew (more later) – we had asked for him following discussions with Richard at Expert Africa

 

Andrew introduced us to his companion who was an experienced guide who had recently come to Ol Pejeta. Part of his induction was to get to know the park in the company of an guide who knew it well.

 

It was a fairly short drive past fields and cattle until we were in the Ol Pejeta Conservancy. It was a game drive to reach Kicheche Laikipia, our home for the next 5 nights.

 

It was fascinating to see a new environment. On the way we saw

 

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Crowned Cranes

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Impala

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A handsome Defassa Waterbuck

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A buffalo after his bath

Edited by TonyQ
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We were warmly met by Sonja, the manager (with her husband Andy) , had a briefing and a cold drink and then were shown our tents

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Bedroom

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Part of bathroom

 

The tent was very nice, comfortable, with a view overlooking the lake. It had running water (i.e.not a bucket shower) and solar lighting. Camera batteries were charged in the dining area.

 

Lunch would be served outside in the shade, overlooking a dam (lake). At lunch, we were the only guests in camp – and we had a very good conversation with Sonia. Food was excellent (as it was throughout our stay)

 

I couldn’t help getting up to take some photos during the meal as this unfolded on the other side of the lake.

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A group of elephants come down to drink – including two youngsters

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Showing the egrets who is boss

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We met up with Andrew (our guide) at 4pm (after a coffee) and headed out on our first drive. We had the vehicle to ourselves (and would for almost all of our stay). As we headed out, we saw some Ostrich

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Eland (who were not as skittish as we expected)

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Jackson’s Hartebeest

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Thomson’s Gazelle

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Tawny Eagle

 

 

During the drive, I think we may have seen one other vehicle. Ol Pejeta is split into two sections.The Eastern Section has a number of accomodation options, good roads and is well signposted. It is good for self-driving. The western "Wilderness Area" is three times as big as the Eastern Section. There is deliberately very little signposting and the tracks are not maintained to the same levelas in the east. There are a very small number of camps in the Wilderness section and much of it would be difficult to self drive. We saw very few vehicles during our stay.

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There were large numbers of Common Zebra

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Mother with Foal

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A bit of a fight

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A dust bath

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A spotted hyena lying next to the track unconcerned

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As the light was fading and we were heading back in the direction of camp we (well Andrew) found some lions. Initially one,

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but then with some tracking we saw that there were seven of them – mostly lying in the grass.

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But as it got dark they got up and started moving. Andrew judged that they were headed to a water hole for a drink.

 

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He then positioned us so that the car headlights illuminated the lions.

 

 

So we headed back in the dark. When we came to our tent we had a surprise.

 

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A table was beautifully set up for private dining – and the food (and wine) was delicious.

 

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Great close up of the hyena and all good zebra shots. It appears I've copied and pasted your itinerary with the drive to Laikipia only with different camps. Continuing to really enjoy this report.

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~ @@TonyQ and @@Thursday's Child

 

That surprise in your tent looks terrific — private dining, no less!

I'm with @@dlo in liking the hyena close-up, which brings out its beauty.

The large eland is especially impressive...glad it wasn't skittish when facing your lens.

Tom K.

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We will be very interested in comparing your stay in Ol Pejeta with ours just down the road from Nanyuki at Sosian Ranch at about the same time. It is interesting to see how they developed the conservancy so that they had an area that was not as well developed for a more off road type of experience. Was your camp in that western section?

 

Your first drive looks to be a success.

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The White-bellied Go-away Bird is a new one for me, very nice-looking bird.

That's also a very interesting anecdote about the elephants learning that their tusks don't conduct electricity. What consistently amazing animals.

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@@dlo

Thank you - I am sure you will enjoy it

@@Tom Kellie

Thank you - I am glad you like hyena. Not always a popular animal.

@@mapumbo

Thank you. Yes we were in the western sector.

@@Marks

Thank you. Elephants are amazing animals

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At 5.30a.m we are woken by gentle voices announcing that tea is on the table outside our tent. Good Kenyan tea and a biscuit is a fine start to the day. We are at our vehicle at 6.00 to meet Andrew, and are pleasantly surprised to have a hot water bottle in the vehicle. Ol Pejeta is about 2000m above sea level so it can be chilly before the sun comes up. We have the vehicle and Andrew to ourselves.

 

The plan is to head towards the eastern section to have a look for rhino. On the way we see a number of birds including White Stork and Black Stork. Then Andrew spots

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Black Rhino; 2 females and 1 male

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The females continue to lie together as the sun comes up warming them

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We were delighted to see these magnificant animals

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We drive a little further, enjoying the warmth and the wildlife

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Thomson’s Gazelle

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Warthog amongst the long grasses

 

We then saw a Black-Backed Jackal

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Then another and

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We had seen one of the adults coming back to the pups. There was lots of excitement (and that was just us), running around, begging, regurgitating (not us this time :) ). It was lovely to watch.

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One adult moved away from the group, looked at us (what a beautiful animal)

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Started trotting

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Heading towards the gazelle. Surely not?

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No.

 

There are a lot of Jackals at Ol Pejeta. Apparently when more of it was used as cattle ranches, the ranchers persecuted big cats as a threat to their cattle but left the Jackals alone. So they thrived.

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There are still cattle at Ol Pejeta and it is very interesting to see how the needs of cattle owners and those of wildlife are met. (I will re-visit this later)

 

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Andrew tells us he has received a text from one of the rangers. It tells him that he has seen cheetah in the western side of the park. So would we like to drive back across to try to see them? Well, yes!

 

So we drive quickly back to the western side to the area described by the ranger. Andrew scans the area and is surprised to see

 

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A large male lion.

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A rough night?

Andrew said it would be unusual for cheetah to be close to this lion. But we would continue to look further up the hill

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~ @@TonyQ

 

Yes! I'm an avowed hyena fan. Positive hyena sightings in Sabi Sands have shown me that hyenas do indeed have their charms.

Your first few rhino images have attracted my full attention.

It looks as though several lapwings/plovers were standing near them.

What really intrigues me is the yellow bird on the ground in front of the right rear foot of the rhino.

Is it Serinus canicollis, Yellow-crowned Canary?

In any case, having the birds in the images gives a sense of scale.

Thank you so much for these.

Tom K.

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