The Offbeat circuit safari in Kenya, January 2016

[mapumbo]

WOW..this is exactly what we are doing in June....this has me so excited now. We are doing the drive between Meru and Sosian and will be flying everywhere else. We will not be doing Nairobi NP...we will be doing Giraffe Manor though...

You will have a great time. We will be anxious to read a trip report from you to see how your trip compares and to read about the people at the camps who we got to meet.

[Marks]

Hmm, no idea how I missed this thread last time I posted. At least that means I had access to four pages at once!

 

Nairobi NP looks great, kind of kicking myself for not going a few years back. Will have to continue to experience it vicariously for the time being!

 

Your Meru elephant video did work for me, just had to download it. Very cool - you keep panning and they keep coming!

 

I laughed out loud at the "aghast" Superb Starling.

 

The naked mole rat - wow, there's an unusual sighting.

[mapumbo]

@@Marks. Great to have you aboard. I am still learning the ins and outs of posting on here. I originally started my trip report under the trip report tag. It was somehow moved to the Kenya section a couple days ago and I think more people are seeing it there. (Thank you to whoever put this report in the Kenya tab.) Also have not figured out how to correctly post a video, but as you say, it works if you download.

 

Yes, we had some wonderful sightings and visited many interesting places.

[CaroleE]

@@mapumbo

 

Thank you for this trip report. What an incredible time you had in Nairobi NP. I will have to try it on a future visit.

So many sightings and all of this 'in the city'.

Photography is great. A particular favourite (although all really good) is the widow bird in its nest. A great shot!

Really looking forward to the rest of this trip which already had an added highlight at the start of your Meru visit: meeting fellow STers!

 

OK now caught up with the rest of the report. This trip just gets better and better. Beautiful parks, great sightings and almost no other visitors. Meru looks stunning in your pictures, I am going to have to visit it soon:-)

 

And yes I am also going to say it. A Naked Mole Rat!

 

The trip continued in a similar extraordinary vein at Sosian. A cheetah and those adorable lion cubs and everything else. I really appreciated the explanation of the stock/cattle management. I was in Laikipia a couple of years ago and failed to ask about this. Your own knowledge really added to it and I now feel much the wiser!

 

And a heartfelt bravo to Mama Ndege for the photography. She should have no more doubts about sharing her photography. As you shouldn't about the trip reports skills. Equally as good. No apologies for my plethera of likes....they were well deserved.

Edited February 23, 2016 by CaroleE

[mapumbo]

@CaroleE Oh my goodness, we thank you so much for the very nice comments. Nice replies such as yours certainly keep the incentive up for me to continue on this trip report.

 

We did seem to have some really good sightings in beautiful parks, but we often say that when we are on safari in Africa. I am a bit more than half way through the report on our stay and things never really slowed down.

 

It has been a fun learning experience to attempt this trip report.

[dlo]

@@mapumbo

 

Just discovered this as well and am so glad meru delivered for you. Really can't wait to get there now and really hope its as green for me as it was for you. Glad you've enjoyed doing the report as well and sharing your experience otherwise I would never have seen a naked mole rat.

[mapumbo]

@dlo Thank you for the reply. It was still raining in Kenya the last week in January when we left. When are you going?

 

Yes, some people go on safari to see lions and leopards, we are now renowned for a naked mole rat sighting.

[dlo]

@@mapumbo

 

We are leaving October 23 and stay till remembrance day. At least the mole rat means you'll always be remembered!

[Tom Kellie]

~ @@mapumbo

 

A treasure chest of wonderful photos of superb wildlife sightings and landscapes.

The classic Sosian Ranch...the naked mole rat...the eagle with the butterflies...the elephant in musth...the rhinos — and so many more.

Truly enjoyable commentary, which brings out the joy you experienced.

I especially liked that you were given the honeymoon suite. Why not?

Thank you so much for preparing and posting these.

Tom K.

[offshorebirder]

Great continuing report @@mapumbo.

 

Love the Heuglin's Courser! We were not fortunate enough to see that species on our safari - maybe next time.

[mapumbo]

@@Tom Kellie We appreciate the kind words about the report and photos.

Reading your Meru trip reports and seeing your fantastic photos was a deciding factor for us to choose to visit there, and we are certainly pleased that we did.

[mapumbo]

At dinner we discussed starting out early to try to find the wild dogs that have a den near Sosian in the Laikipia area. We started out well before daylight with Misheck driving but we had no spotter. As we were pulling on to the main road we saw a nice group of Grevy Zebra in the headlights. We still had not been able to get a close view in good light of the Grevy's so we hoped they would be nearby when we returned.

 

After driving about an hour on the public road that runs through Sosian and heads south towards Nanyuki we came to a hilly area where Misheck knew that the wild dogs had their den. Some of the dogs are collared due to the ongoing research of their habits. Misheck pulled out his antenna and received a signal that the dogs were still at the den. He was hoping that the wild dogs would come down the side of the hill facing us so we could locate them. After driving ahead and stopping frequently to get out and check the signal Misheck thinks that the dogs are on the move and turns around. During this time, as Misheck was stopping and getting in and out of the vehicle, he would exclaim, "dogs are tricky" Mama Ndege and I would look at each other and suppress a giggle as the "dogs are tricky" explanation became more frequent. We had to admire Misheck for his dedicated persistence in trying to get us to where we could see the dogs.

 

As we drive back to the public road a white truck passes by with two passengers. The driver waves and Misheck says that is Steve and he is also looking for the dogs. I ask if that is the Steve from Laikipia Wilderness Camp that I had read so much about on Safari Talk, and Misheck acknowledges this is correct. I figure we are in good company if we are to find the dogs.

 

We head towards heavy cover, weaving in and out of the trees, dodging rocks and stopping occasionally to try to get a signal from the collar. Anyone who thinks collaring the dogs makes it easy to find them should have been with us on this adventure. We catch a glimpse of Steve and his vehicle now and then, and once we saw a dog briefly through the cover. Misheck decides to drive to a small open spot in hopes of catching site of the pack. We briefly stop and all of a sudden an impala comes bounding past our vehicle passing us on the left with two dogs in full pursuit. Then on the right hand side of the Cruiser another pair of dogs come flying by. All we can do is gasp in astonishment. No time for photos and soon they are lost from sight in the heavy bush.

 

We are off again weaving in and out of the trees trying to pick up a signal with Misheck muttering "dogs are tricky" to attempt to figure out which direction the dogs went. We spent quite some time doing this and I was totally turned around in my directions. If I would have had to find my way back I surely would have headed the wrong way. We approach a small lake and as we come over the dam we spot the white truck and they are sitting still. We can see that all three of them are taking photos so we know we have found the dogs!

 

The dogs are finishing eating what appears to be a dik-dik. Some are resting and some are still crunching down some bones. I think there were seven of them. These dogs looked so much darker than the ones we saw in The Selou in 2014.

 

Only one dog had a collar that we could see.

Once they finished off their meal and had a short rest they were off again.

It wasn't long before the dogs jumped a hare and ran off again through the cover. We told Misheck that we had seen plenty and that we appreciated all his hard work and effort in tracking the dogs. It was getting late and we were to head back to Sosian for breakfast, although breakfast had been the farthest thing from our minds for the last three hours. So Misheck begins driving back towards the main road, wherever that is, and we all have huge smiles on our faces.

 

 

 

 

[mapumbo]

On our way back to Sosian we could take our time driving in the daylight. We came across a group of elephants near the road. They were a family group of all sizes. One young bull turned and postured towards us.

 

Then we came on a nice flock of vulturine guineafowl near the road.

All along the road we would see these honey bee hives hanging from the trees.

Defassa Waterbuck

Lying peacefully next to the road was a Damara Dik-Dik.

He stood up and posed for a picture.

A view of Baboon Rock.

[michael-ibk]

Dogs are tricky, but sooo worth it! :-) You had great experiences with them. Lovely to see the Vulturine Guinea Fowls, one of my favourites. The DikDik there has a very long snout - could be a Gunther´s, but not sure.

[TonyQ]

Well that was worth the searching! Great that you got to see these tricky dogs - a lovely sighting and I really enjoyed the photos. The guinea fowl are beautiful.

The bee hives are interesting to see as well.

[mapumbo]

Dogs are tricky, but sooo worth it! :-) You had great experiences with them. Lovely to see the Vulturine Guinea Fowls, one of my favourites. The DikDik there has a very long snout - could be a Gunther´s, but not sure.

Yes, it is such a privilege to see wild dogs.

I think you are right on the Dik-Dik, it is the less common one with the longer snout. I know Misheck mentioned the correct name but I didn't make note.

[mapumbo]

We arrived back to Sosian for breakfast but instead of taking the road up towards the lodge, we turned before the river and headed up a track along the river. There we saw the other guests seated at breakfast and a spread laid out for all of us plus a camp fire. They were cooking up fresh eggs, pancakes, and bacon.

 

Fish Eagle before reaching the breakfast buffet.

Juice Bar

Breakfast Buffet

The staff cooking breadfast.

The rock walls stacked around the trees are to protect the acacias from the elephants. They have also put an electric fence around a riparian area along a stretch of the river to allow more of the acacias to have a chance to grow and survive from the elephant damage.

 

 

[mapumbo]

After breakfast Simon led us upstream along the raging river. There had been over 4 inches of rain since we arrived and the river was flowing fast and muddy. We walked a trail up to the waterfall where guests can swim and jump off the top into the pool below. That was not going to happen today. You would get pounded by the force of the water.

 

We climbed to the top of the waterfall and surveyed the wild terrain in all directions. Walking on further we came on the guide vehicles and more staff waiting with a set of camels for a ride. The family had requested a camel ride. Simon wondered if we wanted to ride and I said I would like to try if it was possible. The two youngsters doubled up on one camel so I was able to give it a go.

 

Simon helping the old guy up the rock face.

Small pool on top with blooming water lilies.

Mama Ndege scanning for wildlife.

Camel caravan

Kansas Flint Hills cowboy on first camel ride.

Face of character

View from the top.

Flower Simon picked on the side of the trail.

[michael-ibk]

That Camel needs some dental hygiene! ;-)

[CaroleE]

@@mapumbo

 

Ah yes, a 'dogs are tricky' phrase.....I can vouch for that as well. So pleased you got to see them and in hunting mode.

Lovely dik dik although he was tempting fate sitting there if there were dogs around! Nothing like a young bull elephant showing off to get the heart racing. Wow that waterfall was in full flow. And your first camel ride....what are you going to surprise us with next?

[offshorebirder]

Thanks for another fine installment @@mapumbo.

 

I especially like the photo of the intrepid Mama Ndege scanning for wildlife beside the raging river.

[mapumbo]

@@CaroleE We saw dogs in Tanzania a couple years ago. Two packs but they were both sleeping in the shade. When the four wild dogs ran by us in pursuit I had chills run up my spine.

Yes, it seems there was never a dull moment on this safari, but if you love it, there seldom is anyway.

 

Thank you @@offshorebirder for your continuing support. I thought it was time that there was proof that Mama Ndege was truly along for the trip.

 

My thoughts as well @@michael-ibk, that camel could certainly use some dental floss. They also do a lot of complaining when they are handled.

[Tom Kellie]

~ mapumbo

 

The photo from astride a camel is true-to-life.

It does give the sense of being up there.

The muddy waters of the waterfall are impressive!

I like the two yellow hibiscus blooms.

Thank you for including them.

Tom K.

[mapumbo]

At Sosian, not only are there a myriad of activities to participate in, they also support a local school and village and you are able to tour them if you desire.. The ranch also has worked with the surrounding livestock grazers to buy some of their excess stock to try to help them avoid overgrazing their own areas. Sosian employs over 100 of the area inhabitants in both the cattle operation and the lodge. This relationship with both the tourism and cattle herd, which of course is a for profit venture, is mutually beneficial to a large number of families in the surrounding area.

 

We asked if we would be able to visit the nearby village. The other family staying at the lodge also was interested in this as well. They have a set amount that the tourist pays the village leader to visit and you are able to take photos and tour the village. They greeted us upon arrival and were prepared to do the traditional dance and singing for us.

 

 

Some of the homes in the village.

The young men performing.

A young dancer.

2 young girls.

Some of their livestock and their caretakers.

Three girls in the traditional dress.

Little ones.

The lady who was supervising the young dancers.

Typical village home.

Older villager.

Lovely young woman.

Milking the cow.

 

 

[mapumbo]

We took a walk around the grounds at the Sosian Ranch Headquarters. With all the rain the trees and shrubs were in full bloom.

 

The entire area is fighting an invasive species of prickly pear. They are struggling with finding a method to control the thorny problem.

 

Prickly pear in yard.

Tortoise grazing in yard.

This is the vegetable garden.

Back entrance wall.