Namibia 2017: Two Cats on a hot Tin Roof

[michael-ibk]

Very lucky with the Elephants - great sighting. But still, the incredibly beautiful landscape shots are my favourites - fantastic!

[xelas]

Day 13: Walking safari in Hoada

 

One more day that we have not moved the car. We could drove up to Grootberg Lodge; instead I have asked the (very friendly) camp manager if one of his staff could escort us on a walking safari in the neighbourhood of the camp. From what I have seen the day before, terrain was flat but with many rocky outcrops, and plenty of trees, so navigation could be tricky.

 

08:00 sharp or guide was ready, and we went out in search of anything ... or nothing! We were happy just to be out, in the wilderness, in the midst of the nature. It was a lovely day, sunny but not too hot. We have seen mostly birds, both in trees and on the sky.

 

Walking into the thicket

 

Rock formations were everywhere

 

Monteiro's Hornbill in the tree ...

 

... and Lanner Falcon in the sky

 

 

Suddenly our guide became nervous. He climbed the nearest rocks to get a better vantage point. He looked around but not showed that he saw anything. Back down he mentioned elephants were there recently. Recently as a few hours ago! Not a good thing, being in the thicket and not knowing if a herd of ellies is on the other side of the kopje. More we looked more signs of their presence we have found. It was a bit scary, but also very exhilarating experience. I think guide knew where the ellies were, and then he guided us in the opposite direction, not saying anything in order not to broke the spell for us, explorers of the wild !

 

How fresh it is?

 

 

We have climbed another set of rocks, and on top there was a small pool of water, and inside it was the highlight of the day... a huge Rock Python!

 (OK it might not be that big but up close it looks huge to me ).

 

Cooling down

 

Moving to one side ...

 

... then to the other side ...

 

... to check what the air is telling him (or her)

 

Rock pythons are regulars but they are difficult to meet as they tend to play hide and seek among the rocks. This one was one lucky find indeed! To stay with the reptiles, two more of their kind.

 

Gecko hanging upside down

 

Speckled Rock Skink

 

 

[xelas]

Beautiful! Being out in the wild, on foot, what an experience! Now I understand the lure of places like Mana Pools etc! Maybe, one day, ... But for that day it was all. After the lunch, we went back to the kopje where the pool and the small platform with icebox were, and we spent the rest of the day just enjoying the views ... and the birds ... and the beers (each to its own, yeah?!). As we were the only guests we have had the place completely to ourselves, and Zvezda make a very good use of the pool area. Not for swimming, of course. Well, she was not swimming while many birds came to get a much needed refreshment.

 

The scenic pool built into the rocks

 

African Red-eyed Bulbuls taking a dip

 

Violet-eared Waxbill, Zvezda's favorite

 

Its more enjoyable when in a company

 

How cold is the water?

 

Very thirsty Village Weaver

 

 

Instead of another sunset photo I will end the Hoada part of trip report with a sunrise one.

 

 

 

[xelas]

With Day 13 we have concluded the first segment of out trip. The second segment, Etosha, will be presented differently. There is really not that much one can tell or write about Etosha, which was not told before, many times. Thus I am preparing something like "The Best Of"; but that will took me more time so a brief interlude will follow. We will be back, soon, so don't go away !

Edited July 2, 2017 by xelas

[Marks]

Monteiro's Hornbill is a nice-looking species! The python was good find.

[Chakra]

Hmm, no need to stay at much more expensive Grootberg lodge at all. Fabulous experience. 

[Peter Connan]

Hoada seems like a very good alternative to Palmwag!

 

You were very lucky with the python. Excellent sighting.

[janzin]

I'm looking forward to Etosha! It may have been told many times before, but not with Zvezda's and your wonderful photos  

[xelas]

9 hours ago, Chakra said:

Hmm, no need to stay at much more expensive Grootberg lodge at all. Fabulous experience. 

 

Absolutely correct @Chakra ! Only downside is that apparently rhino tracking is not anymore available to guests staying at Hoada. Note apparently. For the view from Grootberg Lodge, which cannot be replicated elsewhere, one can drive up and have a coffee.

[xelas]

2 hours ago, Peter Connan said:

Hoada seems like a very good alternative to Palmwag!

 

You were very lucky with the python. Excellent sighting.

 

@Peter ConnanI have not seen the actual campsite at Palmwag, but the general scenery around the lodge is less to my liking then the one around Hoada.

 

Indeed it was me that found the snake! What an adrenaline rush even though that the snake was looked very relaxed taking its morning bath .

Edited July 3, 2017 by xelas

[xelas]

56 minutes ago, janzin said:

I'm looking forward to Etosha! It may have been told many times before, but not with Zvezda's and your wonderful photos  

 

You are pushing the bar very high, @janzin ! After an afternoon of browsing through 8 days worth of photos, I am not anymore so sure about "The Best Of" concept ; but the report will continue, one way or another.

[michael-ibk]

Very cool Python sighting - never seen one in Africa so far. Looking forward to Etosha!

[xelas]

2 hours ago, michael-ibk said:

Very cool Python sighting - never seen one in Africa so far. Looking forward to Etosha!

 

And I am looking forward to Ethiopia !

[Peter Connan]

7 hours ago, xelas said:

 

@Peter ConnanI have not seen the actual campsite at Palmwag, but the general scenery around the lodge is less to my liking then the one around Hoada.

 

Indeed it was me that found the snake! What an adrenaline rush even though that the snake was looked very relaxed taking its morning bath .

We wanted to drive up to Grootberg, have lunch and spoil the ladies to a spa treatment.

 

However, when we phoned them they said the spa was not open that day and the restaurant was full...

 

Perhaps guests from Hoada would receive different treatment, it being the same company, but we were effectively told that we were not welcome...

[xelas]

Days 14 - 21: Etosha, We are back!

 

 

8 nights and almost 8 days we have dedicated to Etosha. It looks a lot, but to us, it was not long enough! Before going, I have read many comments about lack of good wildlife sightings due to extensive rains. Yet I have retained my confidence in this magical park. And the park has rewarded me/us with fabulous sightings day after day!

 

Our itinerary was to cover Etosha west (entering at Galton Gate) to east (exiting at Von Lindquist Gate), staying 2 nights each at Olifantrus campsite (camping), Okakuejo Camp (bungalow), Halal Camp (house) and Onguma campsite (camping). Technically Onguma is outside of the park but so close staying there was logistically the same as camping at Namutoni.

 

Galton Gate is now finished (it was still a construction site when we entered there in 2014). Modern but yet not fully functional (credit card machine did not worked, and small shop did not even have Etosha Map). Entry conservation fee works on 24hrs system + 2 hrs. If staying longer you will have to pay for another 24 hrs.

 

Roads, specially on the western side, were horrendous! And they still are, according to latest reports. That is a real shame; but it does effectively slow down the traffic.

 

The following days will be reported in continuation, each of 4 segments will start with the name of the camp and will be concluded with few photos and impressions about the camp we have overnighted. I will not report about names of waterholes or roads where we have seen and taken photos, as wildlife move around, and each day is a different affair.

[Galana]

Phew! I have caught up after being 'flagged' from an honourable mention way back about the White-tailed Shrike debate. Well done pupil! You got it right!!

Reading and browsing both the excellent prose and Zvezda's superb photographs I was able to see that most of ID queries have been adequately answered by others. This is as it should be. No input from me as another poor amateur.

Progressing onwards the "Moth" was indeed a Painted Lady Butterfly. Peter mentioned how to split them by the antenna.

But nobody corrected your 'bloop' on post 161. Your Red Crested Korhaan (f) is no such bird. It is the much smaller and, in my opinion, much more beautiful Double-banded Courser. Go back and check!

The Butterfly in 166 is a Charaxes but I would need to see the top side to get the exact one. Can you remember what colour?

Thanks for a great 'trip' so far. Pleased the flamingo of Walvis co-operated this time.

Great African Rock Python sequence. Reminds me of Kaa in the Jungle book. "Trust in me!"

[xelas]

1 hour ago, Galana said:

Phew! I have caught up after being 'flagged' from an honourable mention way back about the White-tailed Shrike debate. Well done pupil! You got it right!!

Reading and browsing both the excellent prose and Zvezda's superb photographs I was able to see that most of ID queries have been adequately answered by others. This is as it should be. No input from me as another poor amateur.

Progressing onwards the "Moth" was indeed a Painted Lady Butterfly. Peter mentioned how to split them by the antenna.

But nobody corrected your 'bloop' on post 161. Your Red Crested Korhaan (f) is no such bird. It is the much smaller and, in my opinion, much more beautiful Double-banded Courser. Go back and check!

The Butterfly in 166 is a Charaxes but I would need to see the top side to get the exact one. Can you remember what colour?

Thanks for a great 'trip' so far. Pleased the flamingo of Walvis co-operated this time.

Great African Rock Python sequence. Reminds me of Kaa in the Jungle book. "Trust in me!"

 

Welcome back home ! Sharp eyes you have, master @Galana ! Indeed I can see now the two stripes; The picture in my guide book shows more reddish neck but already the first photo on Google gave me almost exactly the same colours. So, it is Double-banded Courser.  Perfect, and please do correct, and add where missing, also other IDs. I will need them for our Big Year.

[xelas]

West Etosha / Olifantrus Camp

 

 

Etosha welcomed us with almost exactly the same first sight as in 2014: a giraffe half hidden behind tall branches! Like us then Tanja now was all exhilarating. BTW she did have her own gear, and I am sure she has plenty to show ... but as mother as daughter, they both needs me to do the dirty work .

 

 

We took the longer route by Dolomite Camp, stopping at each waterhole on our way. Not all were filled with animals, but they were far from being deserted! I have to admit, despite my confidence in Etosha, a deep sigh of relief came out when I saw wildlife is there.

 

Thirsty baboons

 

Herd of springboks

 

All in excellent shape

 

Gemsboks are always alert

 

Golden and blue ... the royal colours

 

 

[xelas]

Grass was tall and bushes and trees green ... signs of abundant rain. While we have surely missed those smaller mammals, and reptiles that have been hidden in the tall grass, larger animals looked even prettier with such a background. And birds, they usually are perching or flying higher above!

 

Swallow-tailed Bee-eater

 

A pair of zebras

 

Pale Chanting Goshawk

 

Please wait, feeding time!!

 

High up in the sky

 

[xelas]

And sunsets, there never disappoints!

 

View from the hide

 

Walkway into the sky

 

Tora, tora, tora!

 

Crimson Tide

 

[Galana]

Ahem. Just re-appraising and noted your "Very thirsty 'Village Weaver' at 178 appears to have a yellow rump. Care to comment?

Great Tora picture.

Edited July 4, 2017 by Galana
additional text.

[xelas]

The Village Weaver was a trap  ... not really but I was in a hurry so picked the first name in the book. And it does not even live there!!

 

So, yellow rump means is a canary. Heavy beak, ad white above the eye, and uniform belly with whitish throat = White-throated canary. But all this cannot be seen on my photo. Luckily I have a couple more, much nicer ones.

So, sensei, have I passed the exam??

[xelas]

One full day in Western Etosha has started with an overacted sky, which posed a certain problem to photographers. There were some new species for Tanja, more zebras (it must have been a monthly convention of zebras in Etosha, they were presented in large numbers, more on that later in the report), but the oil rouge of the day was "the animal in tall grass".

 

Black-backed jackal in black mud

 

A stripe of stripes

 

Chanting Goshawk juvenile - Pale od Dark??

 

Two brothers

 

Steenbok

 

Scratching the back

 

And where is my mommy?!

 

One big bird (Kori Bustard)

 

Two bigger birds (Ostrich)

 

Red Hartebeest has to kneel down to drink

 

Cape Crow

 

 

Midday was really hot and light was not that good for photography so we retreated back to the camp. Not much shadow at campsite but more near the small cafe/restaurant/shop, There we met local pro photographer Bernd Wasiolka, who was willing to share some tips and tricks with us. 

 

[xelas]

We have started the afternoon as we have ended the morning ... with a photo of a black bird.

 

Fork-tailed Drongo

 

Bateleur in flight

 

One is drinking and others are watching

 

Zebras are more trustful

 

Two mighty birds

 

The colours of the life

 

 

That evening the sunset was beyond anything we have seen so far in Africa. For whoever thinks it is done in Photoshop I am happy to publish the RAW files.

 

 

 

[xyz99]

Lots of animals, birds and beautiful sunsets...this is the kind of trip I love. Namibia is definitely now on the list, as is Kgalagadi, both thanks to you. You and Zvezda make a wonderful team, and I love to travel through your eyes and lens. Someday I'll even get there in person

Love this TR...I will not mention any picture, because that wouldn't be fair, they are all fantastic!!!