Lewa conservancy and safari camp a place of the heart and soul

[COSMIC RHINO]

at Lewa  older male calves often stay with their mothers to avoid being bossed around  by  roaming territorial males

 

despite visiting the reserve annually since 2012 the reserve remains a great place to go to view wildlife  , a place which is becoming familiar to me , some places more than others  

[COSMIC RHINO]

• James at the bar has worked in various lodges and camps for around 30 years 

 

when arms dealer Adan Khashoggi  owned Ol Pejeta  just as a holiday farm , he was part of a staff of 16 who looked after the house 

 

AK  visited 2 or 3 days per year , friends and relatives a bit more 

 

• the arrangement with the STH African wine is interesting  ,all imported through the same agent in Belgium, looks like the wineries wanted to be paid in Euros instead of some weak African currency 

[COSMIC RHINO]

leaving  a place is always sad , except  the few times  when I have made a bad choice  , and  Lewa has never been that

 

well I was  told that my final morning  would have a 830  camp breakfast, for such suggestions to be made means they must have enough people who just go along with it

 

my response  was  exactly the same as the first  time , saying  "I did not come here to eat , I will leave with the 0630 game drive and have the picnic box breakfast"  and that is exactly what happened

[COSMIC RHINO]

The last drive can be and often is very  good  , it is just a matter of pre packing and being ready to leave

 

it had been recently raining so the animals  were less around  ,but there  were some great sitings  , including 

 

 

• that wonderful  combined view  of white rhinos , Grevy's zebras , buffalos with flying oxpeckers
• a white rhino mother suckling her calf 

it goes  without saying that I have  already  rebooked  for next year

 

a surprise  at JKIA  was how they have fully fitted male and   female rest rooms inside the gate lounge that my flight was using

 

 

this  trip reports about a place  which has things properly under control  took longer  to write as I was more involved with following  illegal wildlife crime reports

[COSMIC RHINO]

I have  a simple way to think about my last morning, I came to see the wildlife,  I know  how much I paid , very expensive , to accept the camp breakfast is like  paying 1/2 the daily rate on food service , I am not extravagant or mad

 

The  main difference is May is a whole lot warmer than June when I came before ,I slept only in my shirt and boxers

 

I took extra warm layers which I did not need , I have worked out what to take for may

 

following some previous advice from visitors at another place I got some thermals for warmth without bulk or weight and tested them out in the Sydney winter , they work great

 

I  am becoming more practical in my travels as a thin man, it makes good sense to put a length of rope through my belt loops going through airport security

 

in cities it makes good sense to  put the hotel room security card in a fuel card holder attached to my key ring, so there is no wondering what pocket did I put it in

Edited November 22, 2017 by COSMIC RHINO

[COSMIC RHINO]

here is my 2018 trip report  sent from the business centre of  my Johannesburg hotel 

 

Arriving in Johannesburg in good time and I recheck my packing 

 

it is my practice to take 2 tank bags one inside the other , I remove the smaller one for Kenya  then leave the other in hotel storage

 

I weigh things on the proper electronic baggage scales in  the foyer of the premier hotel and things are ok 

 

without trying to do anything I have managed to take of about 10 kg in a year 

 

check the packing a bit more and things are ready to go 

 

I  am used to the flight leave the hotel a bit early, checkin for the flight ,get breakfast at the woolworths cafe .take vitamin D pills, then security ,immigration, wander around the airport shops a bit, then down to the lower level gatelounges  

 

my tiredness must be due to lower sunlight exposure , I am cautious about that and when I am on safari being out in sunlight nearly fully covered long sleeves/trousers, sunhat and sunscreen  I actually feel that I have more energy 

 

the flight arrives on time at JKIA Nairobi   and the plane connects with an airbridge

 

having special dietary requirements I am given a seat right at the back of the plane 

 

being able to walk quickly I am amongst  the advance  party to arrive at immigration 

 

around 3 PM there is not much of a line either for those with visas or those who are applying for them  

 

they continue to put out the arrival/departure forms on the counter but when you show them no one wants to see them 

 

the airport is well marked as to where to go to collect baggage but it takes a longtime to arrive 

 

my bag eventually comes out 

 

the plane arrived at the gate as per the ticket , my transfer man is standing there with his sign , he is pleasant and friendly  but  it takes a while to get to the car in a large parking station   

 

the traffic was not too bad  and I am now at the Weston Hotel very near Wilson Airport  

 

the driver suggests I slightly later morning collection but we keep to the original time 

 

next day I get a phone call in my room at 0810 , I quickly finish a bit of packing , I am at Wilson in good time , flight checkin complete and sit around waiting for departure  

Edited May 26, 2018 by COSMIC RHINO

[COSMIC RHINO]

my flight is uneventual , I go with 5 people who are going onto Samburu 

 

some places are very special to me , it feels great just to be there 

 

Lewa  conservancy  is just such a place and the way things are done at Lewa  Safari Camp is ideal 

 

 

It is the place I love to return to , ever visit and every drive is different 

 

I am excited as to what might happen and I  hope that the recent rains don't create a problem moving around the place  

 

knowning the guides I check who is approaching the plane , it is Festus who I have had before and he is very good 

 

he explains how things are there has been a lot of rain , the vegetation is green , waterholes in good condition , and many new ones in the depressions and wallows now filled with water ,there have been many elephant and zebra  births 

 

as is usual there are small rhinos around 

 

I was told that mud could be a problem 

 

the creeks are well filled with water , some of which comes from the interconnection of the rivers in the MT Kenya  district 

 

the flow of one of them sounds a bit like a waterfall 

 

on one occasion there was so much water around a creek crossing that a few ducks were swimming in  it   

 

 

 

the main dam  which during my 2017 visit was very small  and being used as a mud wallow , is now at least double its  usual size and deeper

 

an area which was used for dust bathing is now part of the dam 

 

 

for some reason most visitors to Lewa  have never heard of the place before their travel agent suggests it , they were expecting a typical big 5 reserve and don't come back  

 

In my second visit the camp manager said we take good care of those who spend a good period of time here  

 

I have been told my an acting manager that vehicles are intentionally uncrowded and  at least part of each booking will be a sole vehicle with no added charge 

 

for the last few years  I have had minimal company of other guests in the vehicle , if I remember correctly there has been no one else in the vehicle since 2015 

 

this is not something done by the other camps making it the perfect reason to keep on using the same place  

 

Edited May 26, 2018 by COSMIC RHINO

[COSMIC RHINO]

another advantage of going to Lewa is that the animals are not skitish , since the place was not used for hunting, unlike nearly every other white settler farm 

 

however since vehicles nearly never go to a forested area in the west, animals have a tendency to run there 

 

at times some of the  Grevy's zebras  in a flat area near a track were very much staying around and had no tendency move away , it was kind of like staying close just like a fashion model , although I could not make any requests as I can only speak English and not Grevy's  zebra 

[COSMIC RHINO]

the highlights of my trip were 

 

• many close encounters  with rhinos  including seeing the calf being suckled 8 times ,this is something I can  kind of pick up on as when I saw it for the first time  the calf was making mewing sounds 
• especially good elephant sitings including getting close to families with young ones ,seeing mud wallowing 5 times , seeing a heard taking over a muddy waterhole and using it as a bath , spending a good time with a friendly family grazing ,following them to the dam ,seeing them swim in the dam and have friendly interactions with another family 
• seeing many Grevy's zebras , including young ones ,many females are now expecting foals  
• it was much more common to see Grevy;s zebras with rhinos 
• reticulated giraffe  are particulary elegant and charming 
• they were not always easy to find , but Isilo Valley is to good place to see them and other animals , with it good area of acacia bushes , multiple waterholes and a number of mud wallows
• do not leave Isilo Valley to your last morning as it  takes a considerable time to get there and is a long way from the airstrip

Edited May 26, 2018 by COSMIC RHINO

[COSMIC RHINO]

Lewa safari camp  is a luxury tented camp within the Lewa Conservancy  

 

the conservancy  by design limits the number of visitors so the animals are not adversely impacted  

 

only green 4WD vehicles are allowed within the reserve , the sole exception being during the time of the marathon running race which is an important part of their fundraising

 

 

the tents are seriously large and all seperated  at sufficient distance for privacy 

 

they have a king size bed , a seperate  bathroom ,electric lighting and a terrace  with wonderful scenic outlooks 

 

it is the simplest facility within the reserve and very comfortable

 

Simple  is all relative  ,there is more than enough comfort for anyone , the service superb  and attention to detail is without compromise 

 

the comfort  is well and truely above what nearly anyone would need

 

The bush experince is great  and other things so good that one the guides has told me that some people ask for a shorter gamedrive in order to enjoy the tent, lounge etc

 

 

 

 

my aim is to spend as much time in the bush as possible  

 

anyone wanting to enjoy the camp will find their tent , a swimming pool and a very large lounge 

 

most drinks are now included in the standard package 

 

there are two additions  to the camp since last year

 

1  the addition of a large professional expresso  machine in the bar , the staff know how to use it . 

2 each tent now has  a power board incorporated at the side of the writing table to fit 2 USB ports and 4 power points  on the UK standard plug 

 

charging batteries from the solar connections in the tent is around the same as big city mains grid from the powerboard  during the day but longer after returning from the evening gamedrive

 

Edited May 26, 2018 by COSMIC RHINO

[COSMIC RHINO]

the camp has been given gold grading for environmental substainibility

 

 

a large active  weaver birds nest remains on the outside of the lounge/bar/dinning building 

 

a pair of dik diks can be seen in the bush which is around between the tents 

 

the tents are clearly numbered and connected by pebble pathways to each other and the rest of camp 

 

all laundry is done included in the standard rate except adult female underwear which is not done for cultural reasons .  soap powder is supplied  in the rooms ,just bring clip hangers and leave it on the tent poles 

 

the laundry service has a 24 hour turnaround, in practice if you put your things in the laundry bag before you leave in the morning it is likely to be neatly folded on the bed when you return from the evening gamedrive 

 

I am not providing  many details of the camp as this is an ongoing report 

 

during early May not many other guests were in camp 

 

[COSMIC RHINO]

before the 0630 gamedrive   guests are given a wakeup  call with normally  tea  or coffee plus cookies 

 

other things can be arranged I heard someone having soft drink, I  have  fruit juice  and a plate of fruit as I take vitamin D pills in the morning 

 

I prefer to avoid tea and coffee as they stimulate the bladder , I am here to see animals not be taking a comfort stop behind a bush 

 

with the picnic breakfast included (taking about 30 mins ) it is unusual to return to camp before 1145 to 1200

 

the picnic will be things like sandwiches, fruit, boiled eggs ,youghurt  and juice 

 

I took my lead from the guide and gently banged the shell of the boiled egg on the bull bar of the car to deal with the eggshell  which went back in a container to camp  

 

at times  the picnic box will be opened in the vehicle if a good siting is on offer or  set up some distance from a waterhole if it is likely that animals will visit 

 

the guides were at no stage inpatient wanting to cut a siting short ,they actively moved around the position on the vehicle for a better view  

 

In my case if a siting was good  I would spend at least 20 minutes there 

 

the guides were there to provide a good bush experience  with no pressure for a shorter drive  ,the vehicle stayed out as long as there were good sitings 

Edited May 26, 2018 by COSMIC RHINO

[COSMIC RHINO]

if it has been raining heavily overnight there will be a camp  breakfast  to allow the ground to dry out and have less problems with mud 

 

the vehicles are Landcruiser  4WD utilities /pickup fitted with a canvas top on a metal pole structure fully open for a wonderful view of the surrounding  wildlife and scenery  

 

ponchos are supplied if it  gets wet 

 

whilst most people take sundowners ,they are not compulsory 

 

I am well known for not having them it is expensive to stay at the camp  and my attitude is that time in the bush is for observing nature not for getting out  for drinks and snacks   

 

in practice sometimes  the snacks comes out in the vehicle at an extended animals viewing session 

 

 

 

 

in the evening orders are taken for  wakeup  calls and sundowners ,  I say no thanks to the sundowners and in practice  don'y really get asked again  

[COSMIC RHINO]

Lewa conservancy has very,very low poaching due to to great security and exceptional community programs 

 

aeriel patrols  are a regular event 

 

the rhinos are accounted for individually on a daily basis 

 

they are identified by their special features  by a monitoring group and all the guides report their location to the reserve administration  

 

whilst cats are present and can be found Lewa is not the place to go to see them 

 

some guests ask to see  the 26 lions in 62,000 acres  

 

I normally saw another vehicle  briefly  around rhinos or elephants

 

there were a few vehicles around a largely obscured leopard for a while , I went of to some rhinos and Grevys zebras  then came back  to check later with a brief full but distant view 

 

guides  within Lewa Safari camp   exchange  sitings by radio  and get leads with guides from the other camps by mobile phone 

[COSMIC RHINO]

if it has been raining the area of  the reserve with black cotton soil can have problems with mud 

 

it supports good plant growth but really soaks but the water 

 

it is made up only of silt, leaf litter and sand and also occurs over large areas of the Mara  

 

the way the tracks have been made if you get a choice sit on the drivers side ,as the wheels can throw up bit clods of it and you will easily be hit by it  

 

the guides are skilled at getting out of most difficulties , driving the wheels different ways and trying  things with a shovel but on occassions another vehicles is sent from camp to provide a tow 

 

I  was told that someone in camp  was given a pair of now cleanly washed trousers because the owner did not want to wear them again , and she had a  another pair which had not had mud on them 

 

this brings to mind the Flanders and Swan comedy song about hippos   "mUD,MUD GLORYIOUS MUD NOTHING QUIET LIKE IT FOR COOLING THE BLOOD " which I sang with the local UK army  base commander at camp for a short break  at pre dinner drinks one night 

[offshorebirder]

So good that you enjoyed your return to Lewa @COSMIC RHINO.   

 

The forested area in the west sounds interesting from a birder's perspective!

 

I am happy to help convert + post some photos if you would like.

 

 

[COSMIC RHINO]

• hikes and gamedrives  are included in the standard rate
• I choose to do gamedrives only as I am very keen on actually seeing the animals, something which is more difficult when walking , that is the reason I  came for 
• Africa on foot is so much cheaper for hiking
• in these matters it is a matter of being practical , a woman who wanted to hike was asked to change out of stiletto  high heels 
• perhaps  the western forest area would be good for birds , there is a specific walk done there at added cost
• this is not sold as  a specific birding trip
• other activities available include  camel rides, horse riding and trips in a vintage byplane ( the one which was used in the OUT OF AFRICA  movie)
• the horse riding trips are only available for competent and experienced riders 
• I find it wonderfully interesting to talk to the guides about all sorts of things 
• I commented later in the trip that I had been given the standard safety briefing , the guides comments  were that you are a veteran here and have always been sensible
• well if you do silly things the response will be different once he had a group of photographers with serious gear , a group of elephants were near the vehicle ,one of them got out  and was almost leaning on the ground to get an interesting  view of the head  of a very large males elephant  .  The guide's  response was very blunt as to the danger of this situation 

Edited May 28, 2018 by COSMIC RHINO

[COSMIC RHINO]

MT KENYA 

 

Seeing it can be a bit variable  according to  day with the degree of cloud cover .  If it is visible  it tends to clear  over the day and can make an interesting photographic backdrop 

 

the degree of the visible  ice coverage can change with the temperature

 

guides take  the glacier melt as proof of climate  change 

 

OSTRICHES 

 

In recent years   there has been  a greater period of the year   where there is a reliable  good plant cover  which attracts their insect food 

 

the males dance to attract the females for breeding purposes

 

there  were a number of males on show, sometimes  practice dancing , even in front of each other saying I can do it better than you

 

for some reason there were not many females around 

[COSMIC RHINO]

Yes  I will be sending  some photos  to Offshore Birder  but I am just back and have had none printed yet

[COSMIC RHINO]

 

I am there for the wildlife , and if I had been out before  when I was feeling a bit quessy in stomach  , I was not going to let a bit of mud or the prospect of rain  put things of .

 

whilst others thought  that they had been enough already  or were tempted  by an elaborate  camp  breakfast ,  I view  every day  as two opportunities to go out and view  wildlife 

 

things were a bit cooler than 2017 on my rough memory , not having any precise temperatures recorded

 

it got a bit warmer  towards the end of my stay

 

the guides and camp staff are used to looking at the sky and working out  the likelyhood of rain , regardless I went  out  twice a day everyday

 

I would have to be half dead to miss a game drive  and  fully mad to take the camp breakfast on the final morning in place of picnic plus game drive

Edited May 28, 2018 by COSMIC RHINO

[COSMIC RHINO]

I like to get the same air from outside, the air used by the animals 

 

the tents  are fully enclosed with heavy duty fabric insect screens and curtains fitted inside to be closed if it gets cold

 

there is a heavy canvas close over the entry door

 

the curtains were never closed 

[COSMIC RHINO]

all the guides in camp  are from the various black communities of Kenya

 

I commented  on this and was told that a lot but not all white  guides (muzungu)  but not all  of them are from the large scale Laikipia ranching families

 

 

Edited June 4, 2018 by wilddog

[COSMIC RHINO]

I spent some of Saturday  and most of Sunday  at officeworks with a Fuji print station

 

They give a larger thumbnail than Kodak , but are still not easy to find  , and are not in strict time order

 

I could find many of the images  of special  interest, more still to do

 

I have sent a few to offshore birder in PDF to be reposted here 

[COSMIC RHINO]

Lewa   is such a superb  area  ,delightfully  uncrowded  and with  very approachable  animals

 

the  acting manager  was very well informed   and friendly 

 

I  wonder about some  people  , when  he was  at a camp the Mara  , the emergency  radio was used at night

 

someone who was  retired from the  British  army  was concerned about a lump in the bed , started  to belt it with  one of his  boots , then open the bed to find the hot water bottle

 

when he cancelled  the security call  he was laughing over the radio   

Edited June 5, 2018 by COSMIC RHINO

[COSMIC RHINO]

when  you really love some places  extra time spent  there  is wonderful

 

the mud was a bit  of a problem  but it made the place  so wonderfully green  and gave  me multiple  sitings  of elephants  in mud  

 

 

seeing the wildflowers  in the grass was wonderful 

 

in many places  there  was wild hibiscus , a favourite  black rhino food 

 

well are they the only ones to eat it ,looking at a photo I can now see some in the mouth of a white  rhino