South Africa and Zambian Adventure: Tswalu and Kafue

[gatoratlarge]

The next morning we took the Guatrain from Sandton to OR Tambo and flew to Livingstone to try our luck on the edge of the falls in a place called Devil's Pool.  During the dry season you can boat to Livingstone Island where High Tea is served and then a swim (more like a wade) to the point you enter the Devil's Pool.  The views are outstanding and I really did not feel unsafe although I did drop my GoPro twice into the Zambezi with the last one rescued by the guide who dove down into the pool to save it!

 

You depart from the Royal Livingstone sundeck/dock but we stayed at the David Livingstone further up river.

 

I hesitate to post pics/videos as it looks like a sea lion is loose on the falls but at least you can see the view

 

Posting a few videos as well of an Elephant Crossing on our taxi ride back to the hotel---Vic Falls is one of the Seven Wonders of the World but also a national park. 

 

[marg]

@gatoratlarge......you were not afraid of getting your Gator cap wet?!

[gatoratlarge]

@marg  I forgot I was wearing it  but glad it didn't go over the falls

 

[gatoratlarge]

The next morning we used the same taxi driver we had been using since arrival ($30 one way for two to get to the hotel and the same back to the airport) and flew to Lusaka.  Linda and Rick, Aussies that are part owners of Kaingu Lodge picked us up from the airport and we wound our way through Lusaka including the central market area until we reached the outskirts, then the countryside of rural Zambia. 

 

When we reached the boundaries of Kafue National Park we transitioned into a game drive with Linda being chief spotter.  Puku are clearly the most abundant antelope in this part of Kafue, then impala.  But we saw kudu, roan antelope, warthogs and elephants on the way to the boat.  After reaching the Kafue River, we parked the 4WD, met our guide JohnD (real name JohnDeere) and made our final approach along the stunning stretch of rock and boulder strewn river to Kaingu Lodge.  If Disney were to create a perfect African river for a movie, I think this stretch of Kafue River would be it.  Hippos, crocs, water birds, volcanic boulders and rocks, doum and fan palms, even baobabs dot the landscape.  Just stunning. 

 

 

[Caracal]

3 hours ago, gatoratlarge said:

 

 .......... If Disney were to create a perfect African river for a movie, I think this stretch of Kafue River would be it.  Hippos, crocs, water birds, volcanic boulders and rocks, doum and fan palms, even baobabs dot the landscape.  Just stunning. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How right you are and what an apt description @gatoratlarge.

I've been enjoying this report and your wonderful sightings in Tswalu and now you've reached a favourite spot of mine. Looking forward to an update on KaingU and the folks there and hearing all about your experience in and impressions of Kafue in October.

Be warned Kafue can become addictive!

 

PS Thanks @marg for alerting me to the sighting of a gator cap! I had no idea what it was or signified but a quick internet search has solved things for me!

[Towlersonsafari]

splendid photo's @gatoratlarge   but even looking at the "plunge pool from the safety of the office gives me the heeby jeebys!

[gatoratlarge]

Two nights at Kaingu and then two nights at Musekese was really not enough time.  I could easily see coming back and spending many more days exploring this enormous wilderness area.  Kaingu is exploring some very creative sleep outs on some of the river islands.  In fact, Gil and Julia were going to test out one just after we left.  A basket=like creation complete with mosquito nets...we checked it out during the daylight hours. It sure would be an adventure as the islands are frequented by hippo and elephant on occasion.  Our last night we ate dinner with them driving an old classic jeep (reminded me of the tv show "Hogan's Hero's" down to the rapids.  The food was excellent (frankly at every camp and lodge) but it was a great send off for our short visit.  The whole crew waved us off from the dock the next morning as we departed for our transfer to Musekese.  This is a place that will be hard to forget...

 

JohnD began driving us to the point where we would switch vehicles but not before one last highlight:  a beautiful pride of lions including two tiny cubs hanging out in a dry river bed.  The sound of the car sent the cubs into hiding but as we sat and watched, mum began to call them with a barely audible moan.  We watched them nurse and play a bit.  Such a beautiful sight!

 

 

 

[gatoratlarge]

Ty picked us up somewhere mid-way between Kaingu and Musekese and his passion for the environment, Kafue NP and conservation (and his knowledge) were immediately evident. 

 

Our last camp was Musekese Bush Camp, the creation of Tyrone McKeith and Phil Jeffries.  I LOVED the atmosphere and the location of this camp. It sits up in a grove of trees overlooking a flood plain just off the Kafue River and it is constantly filled with game.  When we arrived a herd of elephants were tightly bunched together having a heckuva time slinging mud all about.  Wattled cranes, fish eagles, saddle billed storks, open billed storks were scattered about.  Puku were always present by the dozens if not hundreds...even a sitatunga had made its way to the plain, a first according to Tyrone.

 

We spent time on the river with great views of Elephants up on the banks, hippos grumpily expressing their displeasure with our presence  African skimmers and kingfishers of all kinds were abundant...it is really a paradise.  There had been a fierce and lethal battle between two hippos just prior to our arrival.  The casualty had attracted lions and other predators.  The "winner" lay recovering in a pool hardly moving our entire stay.

 

Night drives were especially productive with great views of both species of bush babies, white tailed mongoose, elephant shrew, etc...in our brief stay we also sawlion,  three leopard (a mother and two cubs).  The bush camp is pretty basic which is just as these two entrepeneurial young men wanted it I'm quite sure.  Comfortable, with flush toilets and bucket showers but no wifi.  It's a throwback and I loved it.  The food was excellent influenced by the Zakouma chef I was told.

 

 

[offshorebirder]

6 hours ago, Towlersonsafari said:

even looking at the "plunge pool from the safety of the office gives me the heeby jeebys!

 

X2!

[gatoratlarge]

I've run out of steam on my report but just in time.  We had a nice ride back to Lusaka picking up some chickens and charcoal on the way.  One last sunset on the Kafue...  I'll remember that galloping herd of sable running pace with us through the miombo woodlands as a lasting memory of Kafue and of one fine trip to Zambia...back to reality I go....

 

 

 

 

[Towlersonsafari]

lovely report @gatoratlarge the 2 kafue camps sounds like a great combination-only just under 3 years till the mortgage is paid off and we can start planning trips to Zambia again!!!

[KaingU Lodge]

Super report Joel - really enjoyable and great pictures.  We are really glad that Kafue was as enjoyable as it was for you.  We really enjoyed having you here.   

 

I can report that the basket works brilliantly.....   

 

 

 

[gatoratlarge]

@KaingU Lodge oh man!  The pics look amazing!  Next trip I'll stay in the basket!

 

Now you just need a pic of a hippo down below

 

[Alexander33]

What a great trip report. Kafue and Tswalu -- fantastic combination!  

 

I don't know why it is, but Tswalu seems to combine well with any number of other diverse safari destinations. And then, of course, it also offers pangolin, aardvark in the daylight, aardwolf, brown hyena and charming meerkat experiences. I have to say, you really hit the jackpot there. 

 

Now, I've added Kafue to the list.....

[gatoratlarge]

Thanks @Alexander33  It turned out to be a fantastic combination with the unusual desert dwellers of the Kalahari but also lion, leopard, cheetah, rhino and wild dogs...then to Kafue with elephants, hippos and crocs...so by the end of the trip we got a full range of African wildlife with the exception of great apes...and Kafue will add flights next year so it will be a bit easier to access...

[gatoratlarge]

One last sighting I thought I would mention...I've heard over the last few decades there's been a sharp decline in carrion eating birds/vultures throughout Africa for a variety of reasons including the use of poisons.  So even though some might think them gross, I was pleased to see a gathering of vultures including four different species: lappet-faced, white-backed, white-faced and hooded vultures on a buffalo carcass.  Shows the signs of a healthy ecosystem:

 

 

[Kitsafari]

@gatoratlarge you put me to shame for completing your TR in super time while i havent even finish my tswalu TR. Im utterly envious that you saw the aardvark in daylight hours! What a grand sighting. And the dogs in play in a clear open area too. We didnt know there wasa group of four sub adult cheetahs - what a view.

 

 I'm really sorry we missed each other in tswalu by 2 weeks and then at musekesee by 5 days but The musekesee guys remenber you fondly. ?

[gatoratlarge]

@Kitsafari we were close but no cigar----next time!  I feel pretty certain with this forum and the enthusiasm and energy of the members that we'll cross paths in the near future.  I'm glad we didn't wear out our welcome at Musekese and Kafue

 

I just powered through my trip report knowing that if I paused long enough I might never finish it LOL  Although I think there's a rhythm to unfolding the report over time, people following along and commenting along the way that is completely lost in my method... I can't wait to read yours for the rest of your trip.  So interesting that we covered the same ground---I did meet @optig in Tswalu as our time there overlapped.  

 

 

[Raelond]

Wonderful report.  I leave for Zimbabwe and Zambia in two weeks and will be at Musekese for three nights.  Tswalu sounds very interesting.

[gatoratlarge]

@Raelond  excellent!  where are you going in Zim?  If you haven't been to Kafue and to Musekese before you are in for a treat!  I loved it!  And yes Tswalu is special for a lot of reasons, the wildlife, the scenery, the staff....really wonderful.

[optig]

@gatoratlarge I have to say that I only admire your intrepid spirit,but have to tell you that you have an enormous heart. I really admire the fact that you and your friend went to visit Soweto. I'll also be visiting Musekese myself next year and have reserved a full week. Yes, I will visit Tswalu Kalahari again and take advantage of the fact that I was given two free nights because I booked 8 days. You are so right there is so much to do there and in 2019 they will be undertaking a massive renovation. I have already told them that I'll be requesting Jonas again as my spotter. He's just the best in the business.

[gatoratlarge]

I'm not really a bonified  "birder" although I do love birds and my camera isn't one that can bring them in as clearly with the great zoom but this trip was very good on birds...goliath herons, open billed storks, yellow billed storks and spoonbills, ostriches, a variety of weavers, kingfishers of all types as well as a variety of bee eaters, sunbirds, cordon blues, two types of owls, four species of vulture, wattled cranes, the list goes on and on...thought I'd share some pics as I go through my trip pics of some of thosee beautiful birds:

 

 

[gatoratlarge]

I continue to go through pics from the trip---I'm not the most patient writer but I do take lots of pics  figured I'd continue to post in groups by animal until I wear everyone out.

 

The four sub adult cheetahs we found on a kill, and then two cheetah brothers on the crest of a dune:

 

 

 

[gatoratlarge]

I believe Kafue is known as the park with the most antelope species in Africa and between Tswalu and Kafue we certainly saw a lot.  Overall 55 species of mammals between the two reserves/parks.  Lichtenstein's hartebeests, red hartebeests, sable and roan at both reserves, duikers, impala, beacoup puku; oribi; eland; oryx and springbok; mountain reedbok and bushbuck, mountain and Plains zebras; Defassa waterbuck and kudu; wildebeests; even a sitatunga at Musekese; here's some of what we saw:

 

 

[michael-ibk]

Great report, you had such outstanding Pangolin and Aardvark sightings. And how cool you snatched a Sitatunga photo, it was gone when we arrived at Musekese. The hippo "winner" succumbed to its wounds after your departure and became lion food.