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Mission Impossible! An epic road trip in search of some of South Africa’s rarest mammals


kittykat23uk

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I am really enjoying your report (apart from the guiding issues)

Your photos are excellent, a great collection of birds as well as mammals. Your camera appears to cope well with low light.

We will be covering a bit of the same ground in November, so this is really useful as well as being very enjoyable!

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On 1/13/2018 at 7:56 AM, kittykat23uk said:

Hmmm. What should I call him then ;)

 

 

A liability.

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On 1/19/2018 at 6:00 PM, kittykat23uk said:

Thanks @Atravelynn yeah the more I review our original correspondence with the company,  the more I realise they really did not deliver on any of their original promises. We were told we'd get a specialist wildlife guide and also use local experts for things like identifying the flowers at west coast. This didn't happen.  We were told we'd be in a 4x4 enclosed vehicle, this didn't happen. 

 

I hope you get adequate compensation. I find the whole episode outrageous & frustrating and I'm only reading your TR. 

 

Even so that's an amazing array of wildlife species you've seen.

 

Fabulous artwork too. 

Edited by Geoff
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Thanks @Geoff My complaint is in the hands of the tourist board. 

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25/09/17 Riverine Rabbit Retreat to Marrick Safari Camp

   

I was up early so took a short walk along the pumphouse track, where a feeding Scrub Hare in a burned patch of long grass along the river initially caused a little flutter of the heart, sadly no, it wasn’t a Riverine Rabbit. I returned for a quick breakfast before the Moolmans arrived to rescue us.

 

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P9251250 Scrub Hare by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9251274 Protea by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We piled everything into their Bakkie to enable the minibus to have as much clearance as possible in order to get it out along the precarious track. Our guide arrived back without any incident. We followed with the Moolmans, stopping to have one final look for the rabbits, but with no luck. We once again thanked the family for getting us out of a tight spot and for enabling us to really enjoy the wonderful wildlife on their property.

 

So ended our time at the Riverine Rabbit Retreat as we then set off on our long journey of 500km to Marrick Safari Camp in Kimberley.

 

Over the course of the past few days we had had some frank discussions with our guide about his continuing our tour as it had become very clear to us that our guide was not best placed, nor did he really want, to guide us on this tour. As soon as I was able to get a signal I contacted the safari company to ask him to support our guide in making the appropriate arrangements to enable a different guide to take over. The safari company was not at all helpful and it seems it was left entirely up to our guide to pay for this new guide out of the fee he had been paid. Thankfully arrangements were made to swap guides, but the bad news was that we would still have to put up with our current guide for another five nights before this would happen.

 

At least at our next stop we would all be on a full board basis and the night drives would be conducted by the staff there. So I thought there would be less to worry about, but our guide still managed to immediately create a bad atmosphere at Marrick, despite all of this. This was quite a feat, where, on our arrival he complained rudely to a poor young intern called Pascal that, in his view, Marrick should have put up some signs to direct us miles away from where their property was located. I was so embarrassed and quite incredulous at this outburst when in fact a cursory look on Marrick’s website would have delivered a very clear and detailed map to their lodge.

 

We got settled in and then had a delicious dinner of oxtail stew at 1830 followed by a night drive from 1930 to 2130. The conditions were cold and still. We had Johnny as our guide. He explained that the conditions were not too favourable for aardvark, you need a bit of wind for that. No worries, we replied, we’ve already seen our aardvark. So I asked Johnny if he could find us a Smith’s Red Rock Rabbit. He agreed to give it a good try! We first encountered a mammal that I have wanted to see since my childhood, the fascinating Springhare, which seemed to be all over the place for the first 20 minutes of our game drive. These cute little rodents are not hares at all and they bounce around like little kangaroos on their powerful hind legs. Unfortunately I found it very hard to get a decent shot of them in motion. They have a very bright eyeshine.

 

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P9251286 adj South African Springhare by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9251287 adj South African Springhare by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

A Barn Owl peered out at us from it’s nest box.

 

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P9251290 Barn Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We searched Koppjes in the paddocks unsuccessfully for rock rabbits, well, Johnny spotted one, but it legged it before he could get us onto it. One of the paddocks contained a herd of Black Wildebeests.  We spotted a few distant Bat-eared Foxes, an African WIld Cat (purebred), two Porcupines, a Black-backed Jackal and another lifer, this time an Aardwolf, sadly both too distant and running away so didn’t really get a good look at it. We got a good view of a Burchell’s Courser, brief views of a Sharp-shinned Lark and the diminutive African Pygmy Mouse, but the main mammals of the show eluded us this night.  

 

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P9251291 African Wildcat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9251294 Double-banded Courser by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9251297 (2) South African Springhare by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9251299-1 South African Springhare by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

Edited by kittykat23uk
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I love Springhare our guide called them the African Kangaroo when we saw them in Botswana.

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26/09/17 Mokala National Park

 

This is South Africa’s newest park. Proclaimed as recently as June 2007, it is situated 80km south west of Kimberley. It is therefore a regular inclusion as a day trip for anyone visiting Marrick Safari Camp and we had planned to make at least one day trip there, perhaps two. In the end, I had to fight with our guide just to get the one visit in, despite the one visit clearly being included in our itinerary.  We arranged for a packed breakfast and lunch to be provided and were able to reach the park by around 8 am.

 

Mokala is the Setswana name for a Camelthorn tree (Kameeldoring) (Acacia erioloba), and we saw several magnificent specimens of these picturesquely gnarled and twisted trees dotted throughout the park. Mokala National Park’s 28 414ha landscape varies between koppieveld (hills) and large open plains with the isolated dolerite hills giving the place a feeling of calm seclusion that contrasts with the large open sandy plains in the north and west of the Park.

 

Mokala is an important area for the regeneration of valuable species and is home to, amongst other species, Buffalo, Tsessebe, Roan Antelope, Sable Antelope, Giraffe, Gemsbok, Eland, Zebra, Red Hartebeest, Blue Wildebeest, Black Wildebeest, Kudu, Ostrich, Steenbok, Duiker and Springbok. Both species of rhino occur here and I really hoped we might be able to show mum some of these magnificent beasts.

 

Situated in the transition zone between the Nama-Karoo and Savanna biome, Mokala’s thornveld savanna, dolerite outcrops and riverine vegetation attract a prolific number of bird species, including: the black-chested prinia, blacksmith lapwing, melodious lark, cinnamon-breasted bunting, freckled nightjar, short-toed rock thrush, pygmy falcon and northern black korhaan.

 

We entered via the main gate and drove through the park exiting at the Lilydale Gate, closer to Kimberley. A map of the park can be found here. Even before entering the park we saw many buck as the park borders onto a number of private game farms. This is a really little gem of a park. Our first sighting as we entered were some magnificent Sable Antelope.

 

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P9261303. Sable by Jo Dale, on Flickr  

 

We stopped at the small reception shop where we found some lovely A4 sized park guides for Mokala, Augrabies and Kgalagadi. They were very reasonably priced and contained detailed maps, and information about the flora, fauna and other features of each park. These all came in very handy.


We carried on and spotted  Greater Striped Swallows. Stopping at a waterhole a herd of Springbok seemed to be guarded by an impressive Gemsbok.

 

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P9261320 Greater Striped Swallow by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261342 Gemsbok & Springbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

A pair of Ostriches were backlit in the morning sun.

 

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P9261385 Ostriches by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261406 Ostrich by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Carrying on we encountered further Oryx, and Springbok and then a family of Warthogs. We also spotted a beautiful European Bee-eater. We then came across some Tsessebe. Coming up to the Museum, we spotted a few South African Ground Squirrels and a Short-toed Rock Thrush, along with another Yellow Mongoose. Mokala Park is known for being part of the Quagga Project, which was started in 1987. DNA analysis has shown that the Quagga was not a separate species of zebra but in fact a subspecies of the Plains Zebra (Equus Quagga) The Quagga, formerly inhabited the Karoo and southern Free State of South Africa. Like other grazing mammals, Quaggas had been ruthlessly hunted. They were seen by the settlers as competitors for the grazing of their livestock, mainly sheep and goats.
 

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P9261433 Red Hartebeest by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

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P9261440 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261453 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261457 Springbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261480 Springbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261493 Warthog by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261515 Warthog by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261540 adj European Bee-eater by Jo Dale, on Flickr

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By selective breeding from a selected founder population of southern Plains Zebras an attempt is being made to retrieve at least the genes responsible for the Quagga’s characteristic striping pattern. We saw quite a few of these special Quagga Project Zebra, along with Greater Kudu.

 

 

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P9261613 Southern Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261728 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261751 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261801 Springbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261807 Springbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261819 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261829 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261884 Tsessebe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9261900 Tsessebe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

Edited by kittykat23uk
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Stopping off at a bird hide we saw Greenshank, Black-winged Stilt, Three-banded Plover, pretty little Namaqua Doves, Cape Turtle Doves and Laughing Doves, Southern Grey-headed Sparrows and Cape Bulbul. A nervous flock of Red-billed Queleas swooped in to drink in waves, always on the move, not risking staying still for any longer than necessary to snatch a quick drink. A pair of African Shelduck were taking a much more leisurely approach, dabbling in the water.  

 

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P9262061 adj South African ground squirrel by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262105 adj Short-toed Rock Thrush by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262124 Quagga project Zebra (Plains/Burchell`s Zebra) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262142 Quagga project Zebra (Plains/Burchell`s Zebra) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262173 Tsessebe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262177  Kudu by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9260065 Sociable Weaver nest by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262187 adj Common Greenshank by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262197 Black-winged Stilt by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262220 Three-banded Plover by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262232  Namaqua Dove by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262239 Three-banded Plover by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262258 Warthogs by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262285 Cape Turtle Dove by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262292 Laughing Dove by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262295 Southern Grey-headed Sparrow by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262308 African Red-eyed Bulbul & Red-billed Quelea by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262341 Red-billed Quelea by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262340 Red-billed Quelea by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9262372 African Shelduck by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9260030 Southern Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9260084 Springbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

Edited by kittykat23uk
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We then encountered some majestic Southern Giraffes, browsing in the tall camelthorns, herds of Springbok, a cute little Steenbok and more zebras. We were delighted to spot our first Meerkats periscoping in the tall grass.


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P9260048 Southern Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9260089 Springbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9260104 Steenbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9260123 Quagga project Zebra (Plains/Burchell`s Zebra) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9260151 Quagga project Zebra (Plains/Burchell`s Zebra) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9260152 Quagga project Zebra (Plains/Burchell`s Zebra) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9260155 Quagga project Zebra (Plains/Burchell`s Zebra) by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9260158 Meerkat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9260165 Meerkat with Springbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

A herd of Blue Wildebeest was next.

 

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P9260181. Blue Wildebeest by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9260212-1 Blue Wildebeest by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Then back to the meerkats, but wait! This little meerkat seems confused? Looking behind him, what’s this? An imposter? Yes, it’s a yellow mongoose masquerading as a meerkat!  

 

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P9260230 Meerkat by Jo Dale, on Flickr


37136400213_9f86fd5579_c.jpgMeerkat & Yellow Mongoose pretending to be a meerkat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Other birds seen on the way included, Cinnamon-breasted Bunting,  Red-crested Korhaan, Red-billed Hornbill, Kori Bustard and Pale Chanting Goshawk.

 

We did not, however see any rhinos. Having read another trip report it seems we actually missed the most productive area of the park for this species and also for black wildebeest, which I was rather miffed to discover.  I was more disappointed for mum that she hadn’t seen them. I asked her if she wanted to come back again tomorrow, even though I knew that we would probably have an uphill battle persuading our guide to go along with the idea. But in the end Mum wasn’t too bothered about having another drive, and so we decided to spend the day locally around Marrick instead.  

 

We had another lovely dinner of T-bone steak. A group of hunters had arrived but we dined separately.

 

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We had another night drive, it was still and cold again and we once again almost saw a red rock rabbit, with Johnny spotlighting on one but it once again disappearing before he could get us onto it. We first spotted a Fiery-necked Nightjar.

 

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P9260282 Fiery-necked Nightjar by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

Then, Johnny picked out the eyeshine of a tiny feline, the much sought-after Black-footed Cat a beautiful, yet diminutive cat. It gave us a merry runaround, disappearing into the long grass, then reappearing again but we managed to approach fairly close to it so that we could admire it’s heavily spotted features.

 

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P9260287 adj Black-footed Cat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

37548499760_6e6f08bd82_c.jpgP9260290 Black-footed Cat by Jo Dale, on Flickr


In one of the paddocks was a herd of Cape Buffalo, who followed us behind a fence line as we searched in an adjoining enclosure. Mum was quite nervous that the herd was taking a keen interest in our activities. A Cape Eagle Owl, Black-backed Jackal, several Bat-eared Foxes and dozens of Springhares were also seen, plus a single Karoo Rock Mouse. But the “aards” were elusive that night and I was beginning to think that we had been very lucky to have seen our aardvark at Riverine Rabbit Retreat, because at this rate we were going to strike out here.

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@kittykat23uk I'm really enjoying your Marrick and Mokala days, something very special for us to look forward to in July.

 

Shame you missed rhino in Mokala though.

 

Just wondering, did the Marrick guides say anything about sightings of Zorrilla aka Striped polecat?

How often did you see the hunters during your stay at Marrick?

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4 hours ago, Treepol said:

@kittykat23uk I'm really enjoying your Marrick and Mokala days, something very special for us to look forward to in July.

 

Shame you missed rhino in Mokala though.

 

Just wondering, did the Marrick guides say anything about sightings of Zorrilla aka Striped polecat?

How often did you see the hunters during your stay at Marrick?

 

Not that I can recall. The hunters left early,  we could hear distant shots. We saw the hunters at lunchtime, and we drove past the place where they hung up the game they'd shot. 

 

Yes it is a real shame we missed rhino and the park staff won't tell you where to look either because of concerns over poaching. We did see some dung, but that was all. But we did not get to the northern section. I guess it is a good reason to go back though, since I would quite happily have another go for the rabbit, black-footed cat and aardwolf too! 

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@kittykat23uk Excellent photos of the quelea which capture the constant movement really well. 

 

I’m jealous of your black footed cat sighting as it was in some of the areas I volunteered but I never saw one. 

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18 hours ago, kittykat23uk said:

Then, Johnny picked out the eyeshine of a tiny feline, the much sought-after Black-footed Cat

 

I know a thread which NEEDS your photos @kittykat23uk:D

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27/09/17 Marrick Safari Camp

 

The hunting party left very early on to set up in some blinds at the far end of the camp. Pascal, the intern, had mentioned that Marrick had a colony of meerkats (Suricate) with some young babies. So I made a beeline to see them first thing in the morning. Before I got to them, I stopped to photograph a Golden-tailed Woodpecker, Neddicky and African Hoopoes.

 

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P9270378 Golden-tailed Woodpecker by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270388 Golden-tailed Woodpecker by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270414 Neddicky by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270490 African Hoopoe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

37806784571_6d402a46d2_c.jpgP9270505 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Seeing the meerkats was a wonderful sighting, as the whole family were sun-worshiping in the golden rays of the morning light. Youngsters cavorted and played rough games with each other whilst the adults were on sentry duty.

 

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P9270515 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270531 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270534 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270536 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270549 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270563 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270571 Meerkat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270628 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270625 Meerkat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270651 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270656 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270660 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 


 

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The stars of the show were four tiny kits that emerged later than the rest of the group and then pestered one of the adult females (the mum?) for a drink. I spent quite a while with them and then at 8am we joined Pascal to feed the game animals that Marrick breeds on their property.

 

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P9270684 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270686 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270702 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270721 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270728 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270729 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270751 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270780 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270793 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270808 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

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P9270826 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

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Wonderful capture of the meerkat babies with mum. I'm enjoying your TR immensely.

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And some perhaps here...

 

Some super sightings.

 

Matt

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@kittykat23uk the Meerkat photos are amazing!  Glad to hear you are getting to the part where you were able to finally switch guides too. 

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Thanks everyone! Meerkats are so delightful aren't they? :)

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omg those meerkats are fabulous! Prize-winners!

Edited by janzin
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The meerkat kits definitely steal the show. Seeing them up against mom...you really get a sense of how teeny they are. What a  treat :)

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