Mission Impossible! An epic road trip in search of some of South Africa’s rarest mammals

[ld1]

@kittykat23uk I can feel myself relaxing now your guide nightmare is over. I can only imagine how it felt in reality. That hawk vs snake sighting is truly amazing and those Leopard photos are stunning!

[lmonmm]

Wow- the Goshawk/snake series was fantastic.

[Peter Connan]

Jusst WOW!

 

The Kgalagadi is just a magic place, but Augrabies also treated you very well. I love that first shot of the Dassies on the Dassie trail.

[Treepol]

@kittykat23uk thanks for this detailed report on Augrabies NP and your beautiful photos. Definitely something for me to consider for another trip. Likewise the Kalahari Meerkat Trails Sanctuary.

 

I'm so pleased that you have another guide and I hope that his enthusiasm and helpfulness lasts for the rest of the trip. Great start to KTP for you both, its one of my favourite parks.

[kittykat23uk]

Oh the atmosphere was much improved, despite our previous guide apparently running off with our remaining food budget!

 

We spotted a small group of meerkats foraging, obviously we had to stop for those.

 

PA012339 Meerkat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

The Crimson-breasted Shrike, a stunning bird, seemed quite common in the Kgalagadi and we saw several pairs.

 

PA012343 Crimson-breasted Shrike by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012349 Crimson-breasted Shrike by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012359 Meerkat & Cape Glossy Starling by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We also saw a distant Black-chested Snake Eagle.

 

PA012406 Black-chested Snake-eagle by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

At the picnic spot on the way back along the Mata Mata to Twee Rivieren road we saw more Striped Mice, White-browed Sparrow Weaver and Scaly Feathered Finch. As the afternoon drew on we began the see pairs of elegant Secretary Birds, strutting around on the hunt for snakes.

 

PA012450 Striped Mouse by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012455 Striped Mouse by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012463 White-browed Sparrow Weaver by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012466 Scaly-feathered Finch by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012469 Secretary Bird by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012500 Secretary Birds by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We then got word of a sleepy cheetah up a 4x4 track near Batulama. The cheetah was fairly flat, with a rather soporific head peering lazily up to see what all the fuss was about.

 

PA012523 Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

A Northern Black Korhaan, conspicuous in the golden grass with his jet black neck and head was a welcome appearance.

PA012546 Northern Black Korhaan by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012573 Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012577 Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Close to camp, Verreaux’s Eagle Owls had nested and one chick could be seen. Returning to camp we checked in and had dinner, enjoying the company of a Yellow Mongoose.
 

PA012579 Verreaux's Eagle Owlet by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012585-1 Yellow Mongoose by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012589-1 Yellow Mongoose by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012592-1 Yellow Mongoose by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012599 Yellow Mongoose by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012602 Yellow Mongoose by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

[Kitsafari]

@kittykat23uk i gulped up the TR in my late return but wow wow - aardvark! those gorgeous blue cranes! black footed cat! your holy grail of the riverine rabbit, and that beautiful leopard and so much more. and amazing and useful information on each location. 

and your bird photos are just so splendid. and I'm glad your guide nightmare is behind you. 

[kittykat23uk]

Thanks all for the kind words.

 

We had managed to book a sunset drive for this evening so after an early dinner we headed out. Our first sighting was an obscured Pearl-spotted Owlet. We stopped to watch the Verreaux’s Eagle Owls. The two lion brothers were still in the area, but obscured from view. Red Hartebeest were not fooled though and were keeping a wary eye out for them.  Spotted Eagle Owls were a common sight on the night drives.

 

PA012607 Verreaux's Eagle Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012609 Red Hartebeest by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012610 Red Hartebeest by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012622. Spotted Eagle Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012632 Spotted Eagle Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We had a nice view of a Cape Fox and more distant views of two Porcupines on a dune ridge, together with an African WIld Cat.

 

PA012635 Cape Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr 

 

PA012638 Cape Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

A Southern White-faced Scops Owl showed beautifully with his bright orange eyes glowing like two hot coals in the night.

 

PA012645 Southern White-faced Scops Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA012646 Spotted Eagle Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

We returned via the lions, who had started to get active. Unfortunately they began walking towards us and the camp entrance, so, instead of being able to sit and watch them for a while, we had to retreat to the gate so that our ranger could close it before the lions arrives. For me it was a bit disappointing that this was the end of our sunset drive.

[kittykat23uk]

02/10/17 Twee Rivieren to Mata Mata

 

PA020425 Sunrise by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We drove from Twee Rivieren to Mata Mata, starting on the Nossob Road and then cutting across the dunes again to join the road to Mata Mata. We first encountered a Purple Roller and then a Tawny Eagle.

 

PA020003 adj Purple Roller by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020035 Juvenile Southern Pale Chanting Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

In the dunes, we came across a distant pride of lions on the ridge line feeding on a Wildebeest.  There were at least three males and several females.

 

PA020059 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020098 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020107 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020109 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020120 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020131 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020141 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020152 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020268 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020314 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020385 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020409 African Lion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020257 Video of Lions feeding- click to view by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Edited February 11, 2018 by kittykat23uk

[penolva]

I am curious how you managed to get food in the KTP if your previous guide absconded with your food budget? Did you stay at TR and eat there? They have the only restaurant in the park. I remember the shops having very little choice and virtually no vegetables.

 

The leopard is such luck. After four stays in the park we only saw one from a distance. Your luck has turned with your new guide. Congratulations on coping with a very difficult situation so well. Pen

[kittykat23uk]

55 minutes ago, penolva said:

I am curious how you managed to get food in the KTP if your previous guide absconded with your food budget? Did you stay at TR and eat there? They have the only restaurant in the park. I remember the shops having very little choice and virtually no vegetables.

 

The leopard is such luck. After four stays in the park we only saw one from a distance. Your luck has turned with your new guide. Congratulations on coping with a very difficult situation so well. Pen

 

Hi Pen

 

We had some tinned stuff and dry pasta/rice. The tinned meat turned out to be inedible. We tried one meal with it but it was like cat food. Jeanrie got us fresh mince and other meat from the shop at twee rivieren. For two nights we had spaghetti bolognaise. 

 

He also managed to meet up with another guide friend who gave us some leftover bread, meat etc as they were departing the park. He was very good about it and paid for things like toasted sandwiches for our lunch out of his own pocket. 

[penolva]

1 minute ago, kittykat23uk said:

 

Hi Pen

 

We had some tinned stuff and dry pasta/rice. The tinned meat turned out to be inedible. We tried one meal with it but it was like cat food. Jeanrie got us fresh mince and other meat from the shop at twee rivieren. For two nights we had spaghetti bolognaise. 

 

He also managed to meet up with another guide friend who gave us some leftover bread, meat etc as they were departing the park. He was very good about it and paid for things like toasted sandwiches for our lunch out of his own pocket. 

@kitttykat23uk you really are 'troopers' to cope so well with the difficulties! However, I know the KTP is well worth eating spag bol for several days to spend time there. 

 

[Towlersonsafari]

Wonderful sightings in a wonderful place! And we did the Cassie trail sounds like you managed the boulder filled ravine better than I did! Really enjoying your report @kittykat23uk

[kittykat23uk]

37 minutes ago, Towlersonsafari said:

Wonderful sightings in a wonderful place! And we did the Cassie trail sounds like you managed the boulder filled ravine better than I did! Really enjoying your report @kittykat23uk

 

Thanks, well we both felt we'd got in a bit over our heads with that trail. We certainly didn't expect to be crossing streams and scrambling over boulders! But we made it back thankfully!  

[kittykat23uk]

Once we’d had our fill of the lions, we carried on, stopping next to watch some playful meerkats at the side of the road.

 

PA020423 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020431 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020483 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020484 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020502 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020505 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020512 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

PA020514 Meerkats by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Our next sighting was a beautiful cheetah walking along the riverbed towards a waterhole. She seemed very skittish as she approached to take a drink. Our guide thought she might have spotted a snake or something. We had hoped she might look to hunt afterwards, but she decided a nap was a better idea and went to rest up in the shade. So we carried on.

 

PA020620 Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020653 Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020664adj Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020747 adj Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020756 adj Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020756 adj Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020772 adj Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020770 adj Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020776 adj Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020775 adj Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020773 adj Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020790 adj Cheetah by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

[kittykat23uk]

We stopped for a lone springbok and a white-backed vulture before encountering some giraffes close to camp. We watched them for a while before heading into camp at Mata Mata. But it was too early to check in, so I went for a quick swim and then we took a walk to the hide. We finally got the key to our lovely riverfront chalet, which looks out to one of the waterholes.

 

PA020804 Springbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020812 White-backed Vulture by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020858 Southern Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020872 Southern Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020881 Ground Squirrel by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020883 Ground Squirrel by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020886  Ground Squirrel by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020889  Ground Squirrel by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We settled in and, as it was Mum’s birthday Jeanrie offered to cook a delicious braai for us that evening. We enjoyed watching ostriches and Gemsbok at the waterhole before we headed out again late afternoon for another drive.

 

PA020895 Ostrich at the waterhole by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020898 Gemsbok at waterhole outside our room by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020909 Ostrich by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020920 Yellow Mongoose by Jo Dale, on Flickr

On our drive we encountered a Spotted Eagle Owl, a distant African Wildcat, the giraffes again, and then on the way back, another African wildcat that was much closer this time.

 

P

A020943 Spotted Eagle Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020976 African Wildcat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA021029 Southern Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA021048 Southern Giraffe by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA021134 African Wildcat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA021147 African Wildcat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

As the sun sets, we started to hear the familiar clicking noises of the barking geckos, but seeing one proves to be very tricky. Patience was the key and being quick with a flashlight. I staked out one of the burrows and was able to capture an image of one of the courting males.

 

PA020432 Sunset by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA021172 Barking Gecko by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

As we enjoyed our dinner we kept watch over the waterhole and enjoyed watching a stream of animals visiting, including oryx and another African Wildcat, which raised it’s shackles as a jackal approached.  

 

PA021175 African Wildcat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

[kittykat23uk]

03/10/17 Mata Mata Kalahari Tented Camp

 

PA011386 Ostrich dustbath video by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA011387 Video of Ostrich displaying by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA020918 Video of Ostrich At Waterhole by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

We headed out on our drive, first encountering a Gabar Goshawk. Then a black-backed jackal- very common in this part of the park. We pulled up next to a couple of other cars, which were watching a Cape Fox den. The mother was busily digging, kicking up a load of sand. Occasionally we were allowed a glimpse of one of her young cubs.

 

PA031189 Gabar Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031186 Gabar Goshawk by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031231 Cape Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031235 Cape Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031245 Cape Fox by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031247 Video of Cape fox at den by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

White-backed vultures seemed more common here, and we also encountered a Steenbok that seemed to try to keep pace with our car.  

 

PA031279 Steenbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 A female Kudu was browsing in some shrubs and we then came across a juvenile Bateleur. More Jackals were also seen, then another cape cobra. We stopped at a picnic spot, photographing some Cape Crows and then carried on.

 

PA031291 Kudu by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031312 Bateleur juvenile by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031369 Black backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031370 Black backed Jackal by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031386 Cape Cobra by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031411 Cape Crow by Jo Dale, on Flickr

A pair of Gemsbok were really battling it out, their horns cracking loudly as they butted heads.  We watched them fighting until they seemed to calm down and then we moved on.

 

PA031423 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031427 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031426 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031438 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031440 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

Edited February 11, 2018 by kittykat23uk

[kittykat23uk]

More Kudu and a lone warthog were seen. We drove up to a viewpoint and had some nice sightings of more Gemsbok and Blue WIldebeest. We stopped in at Twee Rivieren to have lunch at the snack shop and book our sunset/night drives for our next couple of nights when we were due to be back there, and then headed back up the Mata Mata Road.

 

PA031467 Kudu by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031473 Warthogs by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031485 Ostrich by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031519 Gemsbok by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031525 Blue Wildebeest by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Another Verreaux’s Eagle Owl with chick were spotted on a nest and then further on a young Martial Eagle was roosting next to a nest.

 

PA031576 Martial Eagle Juvenile by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031577 Martial Eagle Juvenile by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031579 Martial Eagle Juvenile by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031601 Cape Crow by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

We had fantastic views of a pair of Secretary Birds in the afternoon before we stopped at Reception in Mata Mata to book a sunset drive and book into our next accommodation and collect our provisions from our guide’s chalet. We then headed to our new camp, the rustic Kalahari Tented Camp located just outside Mata Mata, our guide dropped us off and we planned to cook for ourselves this night as he was staying in Mata Mata. Unfortunately we realised a slight problem with this plan, no matches for the gas cooker! A quick word with our neighbours and we had been kindly donated a lighter to get us going.

 

PA031626 Secretary Bird by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031637 Secretary Bird by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031665 Secretary Bird by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031687 Kori Bustard by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Kalahari Tented Camp has a lovely view over the dry riverbed, much like the riverfront chalets at Mata Mata itself.    

 

PA030447 View from Kalahari Tented Camp by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA030450 View from Kalahari Tented Camp by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

 

 

[TonyQ]

Great to have the change of guide!

Wonderful sightings- I particularly enjoy your interest in the smaller mammals. The yellow mongoose is a really beautiful animal.

Your bird photos are excellent.

[Towlersonsafari]

Brilliant barking geckos picture  @kittykat23uk I found myself counting their barks and got a rough average of 6! Well everyone needs a hobby

[kittykat23uk]

Thanks both. 

 

We were picked up from the camp for our sunset drive which started with a talk about sociable weaver nests. We were hoping that a pygmy falcon might make an appearance but sadly this species eluded us. After a while we moved on. An African Wildcat crossed the road in front of us.

 

PA031708 African Wildcat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031707 African Wildcat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

Stopping at a waterhole we watched four Black-backed Jackals. Then we had a great sighting of yet another Cape Cobra, in the road, with his hood up! Very impressive!

PA031722  Cape Cobra by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031725  Cape Cobra by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

The reptiles kept coming with a, probable, female barking gecko out in the open. Arachnids were also out and about with several scorpions sighted in the road. The weather seemed to be changing and a front was rolling in and another Spotted Eagle Owl was sighted.

 

PA031730 Barking Gecko by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031731 Barking Gecko by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

A pair of distant Bat-eared Foxes were also seen. Heading back we spotted a rather laid back African WIldcat to finish.

 

PA031736 Spotted Eagle Owl by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031750 Scorpion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031753 African Wildcat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031757 African Wildcat by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031761 Scorpion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

PA031765 Scorpion by Jo Dale, on Flickr

 

 

Back at our chalet, a Jackal walked right by me as I watched the waterhole, later, two Eland could be made out by the moonlight.

Edited February 11, 2018 by kittykat23uk

[xelas]

Your whole trip was filled with excellent sightings and Kgalagadi was on par with those! From small to big you have seen them all ... and about the spag bolognese, I can assure you there is worst food to have (try making a risotto with that "cat food" canned meat ... bljak ) but anything goes as long as one woke up inside this spectacular park !

 

About sunset game drives, where did you book them? 

[kittykat23uk]

1 hour ago, xelas said:

Your whole trip was filled with excellent sightings and Kgalagadi was on par with those! From small to big you have seen them all ... and about the spag bolognese, I can assure you there is worst food to have (try making a risotto with that "cat food" canned meat ... bljak ) but anything goes as long as one woke up inside this spectacular park !

 

About sunset game drives, where did you book them? 

 

Oh the Spag bol was delicious.  It was the corned "meat" hash that we tried to make which was inedible. We booked sunset and night drives at both Twee Rivieren and Mata Mata receptions.

[Tdgraves]

WOW! Looks like the KTP really delivered and hopefully removed the bad taste from the rest of the trip.

[Peter Connan]

Wow indeed.

 

Magnificent night photos, and the little striped mouse!