Elephants Big and Small DSWT Umani Springs, Ithumba Camp and Nairobi Orphanage

[mtanenbaum]

This trip report is incredible! Now I have yet another reason to have to go back to Kenya and Africa! Sometimes I think I must stop reading Safaritalk because my list of places to go just keeps growing and growing.

 

One thing I'm confused about with the Sheldrick Trust lodges--do you have to bring all your own food and then they have a cook that prepares it? Or is it "self-catering"? I noticed you had stopped to buy a lot of food...

[Marks]

What an incredible experience! And your photos bring everything to life with such colorful vividness. Eagerly following along.

[penolva]

10 hours ago, Marks said:

What an incredible experience! And your photos bring everything to life with such colorful vividness. Eagerly following along.

@Marks thank you. I took so many photographs and every one seems to have a happy elephant in it and many the keepers took have a very happy me. 

[penolva]

11 hours ago, mtanenbaum said:

This trip report is incredible! Now I have yet another reason to have to go back to Kenya and Africa! Sometimes I think I must stop reading Safaritalk because my list of places to go just keeps growing and growing.

 

One thing I'm confused about with the Sheldrick Trust lodges--do you have to bring all your own food and then they have a cook that prepares it? Or is it "self-catering"? I noticed you had stopped to buy a lot of food...

@mtanenbaum So glad you are enjoying the report. I agree SafariTalk does encourage you to add to the list. You could always join our small group in 2019 and visit the elephants yourself  we are just splitting the costs as you have to book the whole camp for one group.

 

To answer your question. You do have to take everything with you all food, spices, washing products, water, alcohol etc. You have the choice to completely self cater as the fully equipped kitchens are available for guests to use. You can also give the chef, who is employed by the Sheldrik trust, your food and let them cook your meals for you. They also have a lodge manager and staff who look after the rooms and the grounds. Around 5 staff at each camp. It is your choice as the lodges are very relaxed. Pen

[penolva]

The following morning we had golden elephants playing in the sun as it was a lovely morning.

 

 

At mid day it was hot so the waterhole was very popular. When the lorry with the water arrived there was already a large group of wild bulls gathered.

 

 

 

The orphans associate with the wild elephants this time of day and Benjamin explained that they learn from the wild elephants how to behave and to observe the hierarchy within the herd. The orphans would usually have a matriarch to lead them in the wild and its been noticed that some of the young orphaned females quickly adopt that role in the orphanage. Benjamin said they will probably go on to be matriarch's of their own herd one day. What a wonderful outcome for those elephants that lost their mothers so sadly. 

The orphans arrived and had their milk then joined in the fun at the waterhole. This one seemed very confident and approached the big bulls.

 

 

The others went into the water with a watchful keeper making sure everyone was safe. We were allowed to sit on a stone seat beside the swimming elephants and they played and got muddy.

 

 

As you can see from this photograph we had to vacate the seat at one point as this bull came a little bit too close!

 

 

The orphans started to make their way back into the bush for the afternoon so we went back to the lodge for lunch and took the chance to have a nap.

 

 

The evening found a large group around the wall and many were willing to make friends. The little one practiced resting its trunk on the wall but needs to grow a bit. Just copying what the big ones do like all kids!

 

 

The orphans came back in single file. You can see the stockades in the background. The keepers sweep them clean every day and prepare fresh greens for the returning orphans as well as many bottles of milk.

 

 

Nasalot was there and you can see her big baby tummy. 

 

[penolva]

The following morning we were watching as the orphans left their stockades when a stray dog suddenly rushed into the area barking. The orphan nearest the dog bellowed for help at the top of its lungs and all the others ran in together and formed a huge group with Benjamin at the front. It was amazing the way they instantly tried to protect each other. There was a lot of bellowing, trunks raised and the dog ran away.

 

 

The hill looked like a volcano this morning. 

 

 

Road to camp

 

The mid day waterhole was a fascinating experience. There were the orphans having their bottles and getting nice and muddy. You will notice the keepers all have cameras. The DSWT provide these so that the monthly keepers diaries can be written and accompanied by photographs of the orphans for their respective adopters.

 

 

The ex orphans brought several of their wild born babies to the waterhole and they were very interested in us sitting on our seat just a few feet away.

 

 

 

Sunyei decided to creep up behind me! She is another pregnant ex orphan. She was so quiet I didn't even realise she was there until Benjamin told her off for being 'naughty'.

 

 

Getting out of the water was more difficult than getting in

 

 

Suddenly a large group of wild bulls walked in. We counted over 40 that day. They came from different directions and joined the orphans at the waterhole.

 

 

Huge tusks, what a beautiful animal

 

 

One of the bulls tried to exit the waterhole just in front of us. Benjamin stopped him and told him to move away by whistling and calling quietly. As I said before you have to see it to believe it. I made a short video although the wind noise drowns out Benjamin. All the keepers say the elephants are naughty sometimes. It was funny a naughty child is the same as a naughty elephant. (please ignore the second video I can't delete it)

 

 

 

 

 

Edited April 7, 2018 by penolva

[Atravelynn]

The elephants are the stars, but the scenery is stunning as well.  You really show their activities up close, even the naughty ones.  So close to these big guys.  What a fantastic experience.

 

What month were you there again, Penlova?

Edited April 8, 2018 by Atravelynn

[penolva]

11 hours ago, Atravelynn said:

The elephants are the stars, but the scenery is stunning as well.  You really show their activities up close, even the naughty ones.  So close to these big guys.  What a fantastic experience.

 

What month were you there again, Penlova?

@Atravelynn We went in September last year and will return in September 2019. The scenery around the lodges is stunning but I think Ithumba has the edge, and those wild bulls  Pen

[penolva]

Our last day which would have been very sad had we not already made up our minds to return in 2019 and stay longer at Umani Springs and stay at Ithumba Hill instead of the original Ithumba Camp next time. The DSWT are also building a new lodge at Voi but are not sure when it will be ready. We will have to go there some day in the future. 

 

Early morning at the stockades. The light was fantastic.

 

 

At the mid day waterhole the big bulls returned and we just sat there watching them and only took a few photographs.

 

 

The orphans arrived and joined the bulls for a drink and a swim. The little ones must be amazed to see such huge elephants having spent their early life at the orphanage in Nairobi where they are all small.

 

 

One bull wanted to come closer to us on the seat. He just walked slowly towards us until I had to alert Benjamin who had his back to us. As soon as Benjamin whistled the bull turned away.

 

 

Back at the stockades in the evening and we watched the orphans come back from the forest one last time. We noticed Nasalot was quite restless and didn't come over to see us. I said at the time her baby must be due soon and she was feeling the weight. We thanked the keepers for all their hard work and dedication. The next morning we left for Amboseli. Our time with the elephants at Umani Springs and Ithumba had been a magical, life enhancing experience. 

 

[penolva]

To end this trip report here are a few of the many photographs we took during our 5 visits to the Nairobi Orphanage. There is a public visit at 11am an adopters only visit at 5pm and also a private visit at 3pm. You have to pre book the last two as adopters.

 

Dame Daphne Sheldrik has written a book about her life with the elephants and her late husband David Sheldrik. 'Love Life and Elephants. An African Love Story'. Its a wonderful book.

 

The orphanage is located on the edge of Nairobi NP and is funded and run by the DSWT. If you visit it is well worth talking to the keepers there about the rescue missions they take part in. There are also videos on YouTube of each rescue explaining where the particular orphan was found and in what circumstances. Some of the stories will break your heart. It is amazing that these tiny elephants can be rescued whilst severely traumatised and, with the love of the keepers and the other orphans plus the financial support of the adopters, nursed back to health and eventually given the chance to return to the wild. There is a little video at the end that the DSWT posted on YouTube which sums up, for me, the cruelty elephants suffer for their ivory. Pen

 

 

 

Kiko the giraffe was also rescued as a tiny baby and there is a video of his rescue on YouTube as well.

 

 

Edited April 10, 2018 by penolva

[dlo]

Really enjoyable report Pen, you captured the experience so well both in words and pictures. You have definitely sold this experience to a few others on this site.

[penolva]

1 hour ago, dlo said:

Really enjoyable report Pen, you captured the experience so well both in words and pictures. You have definitely sold this experience to a few others on this site.

@dlo thank you. Still time to decide on what’s happening next year but we are definitely going back as often as we can. ?? Pen

 

[Marks]

Beautiful photos once again.

The cartoon video at the end wrecked me.

Consider me among those to whom the experience has been sold.

Edited April 11, 2018 by Marks

[Pamshelton3932]

I can’t wait until September 2019!  Your trip report and photos were very enjoyable.  

[penolva]

6 hours ago, Marks said:

Beautiful photos once again.

The cartoon video at the end wrecked me.

Consider me among those to whom the experience has been sold.

@Marks thank you for reading. Hope you get there one day. The cartoon gets me every time I watch it  Pen

Edited April 11, 2018 by penolva

[penolva]

5 hours ago, Pamshelton3932 said:

I can’t wait until September 2019!  Your trip report and photos were very enjoyable.  

@Pamshelton3932 glad you enjoyed the TR. Only 16 months to wait! We do get to briefly visit the orphanage this September so I can get my elephant fix for this year. Pen

[dlo]

11 hours ago, penolva said:

@dlo thank you. Still time to decide on what’s happening next year but we are definitely going back as often as we can. ?? Pen

 

 

My Uganda trip planning is going quite slowly as I continue to unintentionally expand the trip! If we don't go next year with you its good to know that we may still team up in the near future and @Marks if you are interested you'd have to write the trip report, you're Zambia report still being one of my favourites.

[penolva]

1 hour ago, dlo said:

 

My Uganda trip planning is going quite slowly as I continue to unintentionally expand the trip! If we don't go next year with you its good to know that we may still team up in the near future and @Marks if you are interested you'd have to write the trip report, you're Zambia report still being one of my favourites.

@dlo well we already have another group beginning for form if you don't make it next year. @Marks It would be great to see a DSWT trip report from another point of view. 

[marg]

@penlova...what a wonderful experience for you and a lovely read for us.  Thank you!

[penolva]

1 hour ago, marg said:

@penlova...what a wonderful experience for you and a lovely read for us.  Thank you!

@marg thank you glad you enjoyed reading about our adventures  Pen

[Pamshelton3932]

15 hours ago, penolva said:

@Pamshelton3932 glad you enjoyed the TR. Only 16 months to wait! We do get to briefly visit the orphanage this September so I can get my elephant fix for this year. Pen

 

Say hi to Rapa for me when you are there, please!  

[Marks]

Thanks @dlo! I'm glad you remember it...I enjoyed that trip and sharing it.

@penolva Would you say it is worth visiting the DSWT in Nairobi if that's the only one that the itinerary allows for? I'm actually in the process of getting final quotes for next year's trip, which happens to be Kenya, and you've convinced me that I should include this.

Edited April 12, 2018 by Marks

[penolva]

8 hours ago, Pamshelton3932 said:

 

Say hi to Rapa for me when you are there, please!  

@Pamshelton3932 I certainly will ?

[penolva]

6 hours ago, Marks said:

Thanks @dlo! I'm glad you remember it...I enjoyed that trip and sharing it.

@penolva Would you say it is worth visiting the DSWT in Nairobi if that's the only one that the itinerary allows for? I'm actually in the process of getting final quotes for next year's trip, which happens to be Kenya, and you've convinced me that I should include this.

@Marks without doubt a visit to the orphanage is wonderful. If you adopt one and go to the 5pm visit you have lots of time to talk to the keepers and also get close to and touch the orphans. You have to pre book that visit with Lina at the office. The morning visit is the public one so more people but you get close to the orphans if they come over to you at the rope. Pen

[Marks]

Thanks @penolva! Will definitely do so