Horns, Spots and Stripes - Happy Days in Lewa&Ol Pejeta Dec 2018

[CDL111]

Stephanie and l enjoyed your video of the elephants, and our looking forward to your photographs of the rhino.

[Kitsafari]

as we drove on, I was surprised by the sight of two adult lionesses sitting so closely to the road. a self-driven vehicle had stopped just after them, and we stopped before we reached them. They seemed rather restless but it was probably not due to our presence but to their hunger. The lionesses kept sitting up to look behind them where gazelles were walking by.

 

 

pressing onto the open plains, southern white rhinos were grazing steadily. This is, for sure, Rhino country, and this is what Ol Pejeta's conservation is about too. The plains are divided by roads into rectangles, which aren't too large or wide so that on every side of the rectangle, a vehicle will have close enough shots. 

 

First up, a mother and calf.

 

Further up, a rhino bull half hidden by taller grasses grazing with two elands.

 

 

 

and thereafter, turning around one corner, another mother with an older calf showing a tad more alertness, and it was no surprise, since they were black rhinos. 

 

 

 

The skies were turning a little darker but our breakfast spot was not rained on. birds entertained us while we ate and chatted about Ol Pejeta and Peter's background. 

 

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

@wilddog it was like watching a human baby trying to walk!

 

@CDL111 more rhinos coming up. 

 

as we finished up breakfast, Peter noticed up on the hill a group of Jackson's hartebeests with a young calf in tow. I find hartebeests quite interesting but it's always a challenge to recognise the different species. 

 

 

 

we crossed several plains and passed by a rhino or two without really stopping, but did stop for a couple of warthogs preparing for the next generation - happy days for the warthogs indeed!

 

I was amazed at the numbers of rhinos in this public portion. the rhinos looked relaxed. Topping a hill, a vehicle had stopped to admire a crash of rhinos. the three were resting. we moved up to have a closer look. 

 

 

Edited March 9, 2019 by Kitsafari

[Kitsafari]

I looked on the other side of the road, and realised we were overlooking a lone tall tree whose wide open crown was embracing rows of burial stones. It was the rhino memorial.

Ol Pejeta's website has this to say: 

"The memorial is located in the east of the conservancy, and honours the lives of all the Ol Pejeta rhinos that have been killed in the poaching epidemic. A total of 16 gravestones stand underneath the tree - a stark reminder of the devastation of the illegal wildlife trade, but also an inspiration to all who visit to continue supporting rhino conservation."

 

The last Rhino who was laid to rest here was Sudan, the last wild Northern White Rhino male in the world, which died last year. 

 

Peter made his way to the memorial. As we rolled close to the memorial, my sight blurred. I lowered my head. I thought of all the waste laid on the rhino species. all the rhinos killed and murdered brutally - for their horns -  a hollow thing made of keratin with little value except to the poachers and middle men 

I couldn't speak. The pain ached in my heart, and choked up my throat. I could not read the tablets, each telling a story of what horrors humans wrought on them.

 

I looked up, and there, in between the memorial stones, were the 3 rhinos we had seen earlier. It was as if they had come and paid their respects, resting with the dead and unforgotten, symbolising hope for their species and reflecting the good of humans as well.

 

and that somehow comforted me a little. 

 

 

[dlo]

Well said @Kitsafari. 

[Atravelynn]

Study in Cuteness, the elephant calf.

 

The juxtaposed rhinos with the markers in your photos and descriptions are perfect.

Edited March 9, 2019 by Atravelynn

[Kitsafari]

testing. 

 

I can't seem to click "like" on comments by @dlo and @Atravelynn - so please know my appreciation for the comments!

 

I'm not sure if I can post further instalments, but I'll give it a try. 

Edited March 10, 2019 by Kitsafari

[Kitsafari]

apologies - sent by mistake. 

Edited March 10, 2019 by Kitsafari

[Atravelynn]

27 minutes ago, Kitsafari said:

testing. 

 

I can't seem to click "like" on comments by @dlo and @Atravelynn - so please know my appreciation for the comments!  I think there is maintenance  going on at this time.  I can't "like" your comments either and certain things have been giving me errors.  I think the problems are all for the sake of sweeping the dust out of the corners, brushing on a new coat of paint, and trimming the hedges of safaritalk!

 

I was having the hardest time posting a photo that had catfish in the name.  I kept changing the resolution, etc and then I thought maybe catfish was a banned term that I did not know about.  So I consulted the Urban Dictionary and found out it is just a term for troll or altered identity.  I finally figured out that catfish is not an obscenity that I am too unhip to know and the site is just under maintenance  Now you are aware of how I spend my Saturday nights.

I'm not sure if I can post further instalments, but I'll give it a try. 

 

[Kitsafari]

When we booked our trip to Ol Pejeta, we  knew we wanted to see the last two surviving Northern white rhinos. I know that the two rhinos can  be seen outside the compound without paying the charge. But we were more than willing to pay the charge, not least because the fees - USD40 per person - go back into the care and protection of the rhinos. it's not a prohibitive fee, especially against the what we were already spending on the safari. 

Kicheche Laikipia booked the spots for us, and we were going to see them this afternoon. 

 

After the emotionally-charged visit to the memorial, I was worried I would be just as overwhelmed and depressed seeing the last two surviving northern white rhinos. They aren't the only rhinos teetering on the edge before plunging us into an bottomless hole empty of wildlife. 

 

According to a BBC report: https://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-46109393

 

Southern White rhinos - 19,666-21,085       IUCN status: Near threatened

Northern white rhinos - 2     Near threatened (well near extinction should be it)

Black rhino (four sub-species, one extinct in 2011)  5,040-5458      critically endangered

Greater one-horned        3,500        Vulnerable

Sumatran                         100 (very optimistic figure)              critically endangered

Javan                                   67                                                  critically endangered

 

The last two northern white rhinos - both females -  in the world is guarded 24 hours a day in a boma in the public section. Najin,  aged 30, is Sudan's daughter, and Fatu, aged 18, is Najin's daughter (fathered by Saut in the Czech zoo). they were brought up in the zoo and were already used to human contact before they, together with Sudan and Suni, were brought to Ol Pejeta in 2009 in the hope that the natural habitat would encourage them to breed more successfully. But it was not to be. Suni died of natural causes five years later and Sudan was unable to mate with Najin and Fatu. 

 

A keeper from the endangered species enclosure joined us at the main gate. we had to remain in the vehicle throughout. we had to pass through a couple of gates before we entered into a large enclosure.

 

ahead of us, we saw three rhinos. as soon as the vehicle entered, two of the rhinos galloped towards us. they were the northern white rhinos. 

 

Fatu, the younger of the two, went straight to OH. nudging his hand, OH stroked her head and she seemed to like it, lingering for a while before realising there would be no food offered and she moved off. Najin, waited for Fatu to move off before coming closer to me to inspect my hand. having smelt no food, she too moved off. 

those moments of contact just fired such joy in me. The emotions were just the opposite of what I had felt at the memorial. Even knowing they are the last of their kind, watching them wander in the enclosure, seeing their curiousity in us, having physical contact with them, filled me with some hope.

 

Both look healthy and very comfortable in the enclosure. The keeper said when Sudan died, they were both affected by his absence, becoming more wary and subdued. But they have passed that stage. 

Last year, scientists in Berlin managed to create a hybrid embryo using northern white rhino semen (collected from Sudan and other captive males before they died) with southern white rhino eggs. They are now in the process of trying the same but with eggs from Najin and Fatu. we can only pray and hope for a very positive outcome but the road ahead is very long and challenging. 

 

Najin at the far top with Fatu grazing at the right, with a faint rainbow in between them.

 

 

A southern white rhino, taken from the wild and hence more cautious of humans, lives with Najin and Fatu in the enclosure. 

 

 

 

Fatu

 

 

Najin

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

16 minutes ago, Atravelynn said:

 

 Catfish is trolling??

I didn't know either. you know, @Atravelynn i like to think we are too hip to know such alternative facts.

 

 

[Kitsafari]

Part of the paid visit also included some time with Baraka at the Morani centre. it was moments that have become quite special for us too. 

 

The black rhino was a wild rhino which had a very serious injury to his left eye after a fight with another black rhino. He was brought in by the vets to treat the eye but the infection worsened and the eye lost its sight. unfortunately the right eye developed a crystallised cataract, and now both eyes are blind. understandably, Baraka was aggressive to the keepers at the beginning but he's now trustful of the keepers that he has become so gentle. 

I was stunned how he allowed us to pat his head.Having his favourite food - sugar cane - in hand also helped smoothed the way. he nudged my hands a couple of times when I stopped scratching his face and head. He's learned how to be pampered! what moments to cherish, interacting with Ol Pejeta's black rhino ambassador to humans. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[michael-ibk]

Another great day for you Kit. Very special to see the last two N. White Rhinos but I expect quite a sad experience in a way as well. Also loved patting Baraka a couple of years ago. :-)

[Kitsafari]

@michael-ibk it was a bittersweet experience with the northern white rhinos. sweet because we could interact with them and we could see how relaxed and comfortable they were, yet bitter, knowing the survival of their species is literally counting the years and days. 

[Kitsafari]

It was a very special Rhino day for us. the day however had more plans for us. Tawny ones.

 

Up on the plains, and the roads were already clogged up with cars. Lions are always a huge draw, and rightly so. the kings of the beast carry such a regal look on them, that we cannot deny the respect and admiration humans have for them. while we didn't get the pride male, we did get four of them, including one very hungry sub adult male. Silhoutted against dramatic and stunning skies and landscape. 

 

 

The adult females still had spots - a feature that Peter had earlier mentioned to us. As the lions grew older, the cats typically lose the spots. But in Ol Pejeta, it seems the adults retain the spots. Peter;s not sure why. Another unusual feature is on the giraffes - the legs lose the markings and become whiter. again, he could not explain why. 

 

We could see the lions were looking to hunt. one adult female - with a shortened tail - peeled off from the group,  her whole body arched and ears alert. in the far distance, across the road, we could make out warthogs. as she moved forward, the others slowly followed.

 

 

more cars had joined - there were at least 25 cars at one point - and they were scattered around the plot the lions were in. Thank goodness for no off-roading!

 

the cars that were present had left a whole section of the road empty where the female lion had crossed to give space to the other lions. Some clever self-driving vehicle noted that empty space and decided it was silly of us not to park in front of the lions for that vantage point. sadly no one berated them, and fortunately the lions did not need to sprint into action. But I do wish that any self-driver doing a safari would try to familiarise or educate themselves with the practices. That car could have blocked the lions if they had started to run. 

 

The would-be hunt was a failure from the start, though. no thanks to a flock of guineafowls who made a huge racket and alerted the warthogs who ran off. 

 

 

ah well, rest and wait again. Meanwhile, a group of humans walked by. In uniforms, the rangers were starting to prepare their daily security rounds of the conservancy. The lions must be used to this sight, as they simply watched the rangers walked by without showing any alarm. 

 

The guineafowls continued with their huge racket. one of the lionesses stared long and hard at them.  she slowly walked towards them, laid down, then flung into the birds which scattered and flew off, screaming abuse at the big cat.

 

Peace, at last! not only for her but us as well!

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 10, 2019 by Kitsafari

[Kitsafari]

The evening skies above the lions were just spectacular. Dark clouds shifted and floated by, the sun was hidden but its light would not be put out and found its way to whatever it could. 

the lionesses waited patiently but the sub adult male went into every warthog hole to see if one was at home. He came out empty. 

 

 

 

then far in the distance, the male picked up something. warthogs trotting out onto the plains. the females stalked.  and in the tall grasses, one female crouched. one warthog stopped, moved forward, hesitated, then trotted forward into the tall grasses and we all held out breath. but the crouched female moved too fast, and the warthogs sped away, and the lionesses had to wait out the night again. The male looked wistfully into the empty plain. 

 

 

 

 

 

[Kitsafari]

the sun was almost gone. and we left them under a spectacular sunset - the best we had seen and on our last evening in Ol Pejeta. 

 

[amybatt]

 @Kitsafari Im unable to “like” any of the above posts, so please consider them all liked.  Ol Pejeta certainly treated you well.  What incredible experiences with the rhinos.  I do appreciate what Ol P is doing for Baraka (as well as Maxwell the rhino at Sheldrick’s in Nairobi, similarly incapacitated).  I think it helps people who maybe aren’t into conservation so much to “meet” and make a connection with wildlife at places like this and San Diego Zoo Safari Park, where you can buy experiences to feed and pet them.  If it changes the thinking of a few, or makes them go home and talk about the rhino plight, it is worth it.

 

You’re doing quite well with your photos.  Was this trip shot with the Sony?

[lmonmm]

As with @amybatt (ST not letting me use the @ feature)  I too have not been able to "like" but this TR has been stunning all along. The rhinos are pretty mind-blowing and I love the videos of the lions, especially the one chasing the guinea fowl. @Atravelyn- oh my did you make me laugh. Still recovering from an emergency appendectomy on Monday and it hurts to laugh, but this was just so funny.....I too had no idea catfish also denoted a troll or trolling. Anyway- @Kitsafari- glad I can at least read your report- brightening my dreary Sunday

 

[offshorebirder]

Virtual likes sent your way @Kitsafari!

 

I am glad the blind old gentleman Black Rhino has found his way to a good home.  How endearing that he nudged you for more scratching!  

 

What a wonderful experience watching the Lions feign disinterest in the Guineafowl - who knew they were not to be trusted!

 

Thanks for this TR - I am enjoying following along.

[CDL111]

Have to agree with all that has been said with regards to the killing and hopefully a better informed public.

[Kitsafari]

On 3/11/2019 at 6:52 AM, lmonmm said:

A@Atravelyn- oh my did you make me laugh. Still recovering from an emergency appendectomy on Monday and it hurts to laugh, but this was just so funny.....I too had no idea catfish also denoted a troll or trolling. Anyway- @Kitsafari- glad I can at least read your report- brightening my dreary Sunday

 

 

@lmonmm I hope you have fully recovered from the emergency surgery!

 

[Kitsafari]

@amybatt finally i'm able to reply!! yes it's with the sony model which you had and had such good results that encouraged me to get it. The  drawbacks with it though is the slow focus and tough to take photos in low light, but then other more sophisticated cameras have the same problem in low light, so I can't gripe too much!

 

 

[Atravelynn]

The horns, stripes, and spots have weathered the temporary shutdown just fine.  I like and can click like on your photos.  That starling that positioned itself--or that you cleverly angled--between the rhinos chin and front legs was a great splash of color shot.

 

Was there a background story on the elephant with an impaired gait? 

 

Gorgeous skies!

[Kitsafari]

@Atravelynn we were told very briefly but, I can't remember.