Tanzania 2019- Northern Circuit Green Season

[LarsS]

Lovely trip report @Amylovescritters!

 

Really liked Tarangire for the elephants as well, such big numbers everywhere. But you got to see a lot of other animals as well. Always makes you appreciate a park/reserve even more when there's a good variety of different species, doesn't it?
 

Question about Tarangire: how were the tse tse flies? They were really annoying for us in november years ago.
 

And a pangolin! What an amazing sighting that is! An incredible animal, hope to see one myself one day. So special!
 

You did get to see some really special sightings in Ngorongoro as well. Not only eland and rhino, but also some action. The pictures of the zebra surely don't look good, just a matter of time before it lost it's life...

The cats are pretty amazing as well. A caracal, just wow! And ofcourse the lion cubs. You can't take too many pictures of lion cubs

Looking forward to the Serengeti part of your adventure!

[Julian]

Great trip report and lots of wonderful photos.

You were very lucky to see pangolin, caracal and serval on one safari. After six African safaris we have never seen a pangolin or serval, and all three are on many safari travellers wish lists.

Seeing the rhinos in the Crater was also another lucky sighting, as although they are in the vicinity they are often not in visible sight of any of the vehicle routes.

I too would like to know about the tsetse flies in Tarangire, as it is noted for being particularly bad for these.

Very pleased to see you had such a good time there after planning your trip very carefully, following your research and questions on Safaritalk during the previous year.

 

[Amylovescritters]

@LarsS and @Julian

 

So glad you guys are enjoying my report and photos. To be honest I cannot take credit for all the pics. Our best friend Craig accompanied us and used my camera to take quite a few, though I took many, as well. I’m afraid he is the superior photographer. But hey, I was great at spotting wildlife and removing scary critters from tents, being a biologist. Lol. Hoping to get much better at photography by March for my mom and my trip toBotswana. 

As far as tsetses in Tarangire, well, they were pesky in the more wooded areas but non existent in the areas not heavily wooded. None at Silale really. They were VICIOUS in the Moru area of CS, though. Brutal. Lol. We had an amazing female leopard not far from Dunia pretty much to ourselves. She was so magnificent we didn’t mind getting eaten alive lol. By “We” I mean my guide and I. The hubby, my mom, and my friend Craig all opted out of going back out after returning to camp at 130pm. My hubby and Craig were a preferred main course for the buggers and didn’t want to face them again. I think the flies like G&T. Lol. They had pretty gnarly swelling, though. Bad reactions.Didnt bother me so much.  I would have stayed out all day had I had my choice daily, but it wasn’t just about me. We did have several all day game drives, but the rest of my group aren’t the fanatic I am. 

[Amylovescritters]

Boy it seems I’ve dropped the proverbial ball here. Too much planning for Botswana and not enough Serengeti TR. lol

Promise to get back to it soon! Also here working in the desert of SoCal. Doing some Kit Fox work currently. Cute buggers!

Edited August 14, 2019 by Amylovescritters

[Amylovescritters]

Obviously had a malfunction on my trap cam from heat. Lol

[Amylovescritters]

More work. Anyhow, Serengeti soon. Btw, I love ❤️ my job!

[LarsS]

On 8/4/2019 at 3:30 AM, Amylovescritters said:

@LarsS and @Julian

 

So glad you guys are enjoying my report and photos. To be honest I cannot take credit for all the pics. Our best friend Craig accompanied us and used my camera to take quite a few, though I took many, as well. I’m afraid he is the superior photographer. But hey, I was great at spotting wildlife and removing scary critters from tents, being a biologist. Lol. Hoping to get much better at photography by March for my mom and my trip toBotswana. 

As far as tsetses in Tarangire, well, they were pesky in the more wooded areas but non existent in the areas not heavily wooded. None at Silale really. They were VICIOUS in the Moru area of CS, though. Brutal. Lol. We had an amazing female leopard not far from Dunia pretty much to ourselves. She was so magnificent we didn’t mind getting eaten alive lol. By “We” I mean my guide and I. The hubby, my mom, and my friend Craig all opted out of going back out after returning to camp at 130pm. My hubby and Craig were a preferred main course for the buggers and didn’t want to face them again. I think the flies like G&T. Lol. They had pretty gnarly swelling, though. Bad reactions.Didnt bother me so much.  I would have stayed out all day had I had my choice daily, but it wasn’t just about me. We did have several all day game drives, but the rest of my group aren’t the fanatic I am. 

 

Interesting to hear tsetse preferred some people above other. My wife and I were on a private tour and she suffered way more than I did. Got bitten more often and had bad reactions where I had hardly a reaction. Too bad your trips was effected by them though.

I experienced Tarangire as the worst place for tsetse so far. Serengeti was better, only in a small area they were annoying. For us, this nuisance is holding us back from visiting these areas again (for now).

[TonyQ]

Wow you really had great sightings. 

And a pangolin!

[michael-ibk]

Really enjoying this report - my very first safari followed a very similar route, and like you I was totally blown away by seeing all these magnificent animals in the wild. No Pangolin for me though!

[Atravelynn]

You sure had a variety of critters to love on this trip.

 

Arumeru- On some of your dik dik photos I recognize the grounds.  You got some excellent shots of that shy little creature.    Did you remain at Arumeru between night 1 and 2 or did you go somewhere that first day?

 

You mention the views at Tarangire Safari Lodge--I have wondered if the animals congregate in the green season in the area viewed from the patio?  I think you have a photo of zebras at this location.

 

You had great ele action in Tarangire!  It seems the herds are still  somewhat predictable in their journey to the riverbed and at Silale even with adequate water elsewhere.  I noticed some of your ele pics were of eles in a dry riverbed, it seemed. In fact I think you had more pics of eles in a dry riverbed than in water.  Was the water just out of the frame or did you actually encounter a lot of dry riverbeds in Tarangire?  I would have expected more water flowing that time of year. (Perhaps you can detect I have thought about visiting Tarangire in the green season.)

 

The pangolin is astounding.  Had Fadhil ever seen one in Tarangire?  How did that sighting unfold?  Was it Fadhil that saw it or perhaps you had the sharp eyes?  Did your safari partners realize the significance of seeing this odd and precious creature?

 

Kill--by the European Roller!

 

Through Tarangire, my fav photos are the lionesses looking up.  Do you know what caught their attention?  And the egret tree at Silale Swamp. 

 

With your Nikon Cool Pix P900, some of those elephants might actually have been at Lake Manyara and you just zoomed the max all the way from Tarangire!

 

What an excellent start! Looking forward to the crater and beyond.

 

 

Edited August 26, 2019 by Atravelynn

[Amylovescritters]

@Atravelynn we got very lucky. We stayed at Arumeru 2 nights before heading out to Tarangire. The animals were definitely congregating at the river and valley below in numbers. Had elephants at the lodge one day.  There hadn't been a lot of rain and water levels were lower than anticipated. There was some water in the riverbed in Ellie pics but not much. I loved the park. Loved visiting early April.

I highly recommend it. 

The lions were watching an osprey in the tree above. Great experience for sure. 

The pangolin was actually near Namiri Plains and one of the Asilia guides happened to see it crossing the road and notified us. This I believe was only the 3rd one Fadhil had ever seen. It was just my mom and I, Fadhil, a guy helping build the new Namiri camp, and the lone Asilia guide at the viewing. 

Truly remarkable.  I worry for this species. Nothing really being done in terms of conservation efforts. Boggles my mind.

Thanks!

[Atravelynn]

Thanks for the info on the pangolin. 

"The lions under the tree were by Silale Swamp and they were mesmerized by an osprey perched in the tree above them"   Now I see that.

Rhino were out in force in the crater, plus the life and death dramas that unfolded.

 

What an adorable bundle of lion cubs and you got such good views of them. 

 

You had cat variety (good work with the binos on the caracal) and cat action.  Very exciting.  The canine photos of the bat eared fox are great too.

 

Edited August 27, 2019 by Atravelynn

[Amylovescritters]

Sorry for the delay on this one!! Been super busy.  Namiri Plains will be a separate installment. Anyhow, without further ado...

 

 

 

We sadly said our goodbyes to the wonderful team at Njozi and embarked on our continued journey to Central Serengeti following a walking Safari in Ndutu. Though we didn’t see much animal life, it was still great to get some exercise and see animal sign/learn about animal and plant life. Should have gotten out earlier but ranger was late (oh well).

 

 

 

We loved the scenery on the way to Naabi Hill and the view from there is truly spectacular. Great picnic area full of an assortment of critters. Watched birds, lizards, and rodents and ate lunch before pressing on towards the Moru Kopjes and eventually, Dunia Camp. We had many lovely game sightings, antelope, the migration, gazelle, giraffes and exquisite birds. We had hoped for lions (or even possibly a leopard or rhino sighting) in the Moru Kopjes but it was not to be. Unfortunately, the hubby and our friend,Craig, were again engaged in all out war with the Tsetses, and by all accounts, the flies were winning. It had been a long day and as it grew close to evening we headed to camp.

 

 

 

On approach to camp we continued to see the usual game. Some controlled burning was occurring and some areas were quite smokey. We arrived to camp and were welcomed with towels, juice, and amazing song and dance by the fierce, amazing, talented, beautiful, warm women of Dunia. This camp is gorgeous and run completely by women. Fantastic. Camp is pretty luxe and truly in the heart of migration this time of year, and hence, also a mecca for predators. Also a bit of a tsetse mecca in the surrounding woods. Guys were plagued entering and exiting camp. The food here is incredible (thanks to the amazing Chef Grace) and Angel is an awe inspiring camp manager in her own right. Wildlife was literally in camp, with the migration basically all around. Lions and hyena nearby all night... Loved it. Slept well.

 

 

 

We headed out for Seronera early the next morning in search of the larger herds and definitely found them. Magical. Also saw lions and all the usual suspects. Hippos, crocs, a fleeting glimpse of a hunting serval. We had a great day in all and headed back towards the Moru area. We were expected for lunch at camp around 1pm or so. Not my choice, obviously. I was out voted. Once again the guys were being eaten alive and called it out of pain and frustration around 1230 or so. I, too, was frustrated. I wanted to stay out all day. Clouds were forming and it began to drizzle. Ok. Lunch at camp it is.

 

That late afternoon I was the only one to go on the game drive. I kept teasing my hubby, mom, and Craig that I was off with Fadhil to get my leopard (we had been blessed with 4 of the Big 5 not that I was particularly concerned) ... And that they’d be sorry. They were.

 

 

A mere10-15 minutes up the road we noticed a vehicle stopped. There she was... Exquisite, elusive, sleek, spotted perfection about 20-25m away in a tree.This would be where we spent the entirety of our game drive. We shared her with the original vehicle briefly and at one point another vehicle joined in for a short time before continuing to check into their camp. We had her to ourselves and watched and waited as she lounged in the tree. We hoped we might get lucky and have her pass closer or even try to hunt passing herds not far away. I loved watching her. We were fighting tsetses a bit but didn’t mind. Safari gods were smiling on us. Rains, light, had ceased and we were looking at one of the most beautiful creatures on the planet. African leopard. She did get up after an hour and a half or so, hop down from the tree with grace and ease, and then swiftly disappeared into the grasses like a shark submerges into the deep. Gone out of site. Her tail gently slipping into grass as a dorsal does into waves. Happy hunting beauty. We hoped to see her the next day and were already planning on how best to break the news o this perfect sighting to the others, who would surely be disappointed. They were.

 

 

The next morning we headed to Seronera hoping the guys, and my mom, would see a leopard. Our beautiful lady from last night had ghosted us. She was nowhere to be found. Strike one. We were also hoping for famous, tree climbing lions... Would we continue to remain in the good graces of the Safari gods? This would be the last full day for Greg and Craig and the stakes were high. Regardless, we knew the Serengeti would not let us down and deliver magic.

 

 

Today would be an all day endeavor. Finally, thank the safari gods again. Things started slowly, again visiting the herds in early morning for the serenity and beauty of only the winds through the plains, occasional zebra warning cries, and grunts of the gnu. Visited the hippo pool, awesome. More antelope, gazelle, lions, and yes one very fat lioness in a tree. Presumably pregnant or heavy with milk for hidden cubs. Lunch at a beautiful picnic area with hyrax. Some Ellies, usual suspects, and wait... A few vehicles near a tree with a young zebra calf kill... Would the predator responsible return or had the four hyena under the tree run it off successfully?

 

We parked and waited...

Emerging from the grasses came a mass of spotted girth and muscle. The hyenas split immediately  in fear. A huge, male leopard had returned for his prize, utterly unfettered by the hyena. Up the tree he went. This sighting was so close, maye10-15m. He then lounged proudly on his kill before making a brief, feeble attempt to feed. He was in no urgent need to eat a meal, fat, happy, and unbelievably impressive. The foal was likely too good and easy an opportunity to pass up. Unfortunately, the sighting had begun to attract many vehicles, and one rude, disgusting, undeserving group of young Americans began a profane, vulgar, loud, disrespectful play by play, narration as the leopard began half heartedly eating the rump of his prize. We grew angry as this was loud enough for everyone to hear and also was loud enough to disturb more sketchy wildlife (which luckily this big guy was not). Fadhil finally reprimanded them sternly (and then the guide in Swahili ). They left shortly after but certainly did not argue with Fadhil. We left shortly afterwards,as well, since there were simply too many vehicles and folks were staring to drive and park precariously. It was getting late and we had a bit of a drive ahead of us. We stopped along the way for the usual game one can never tire of... Last night for the guys. Mom and I were off to Namiri Plains after dropping them at the airport in the morning.

 

Sundowners, the bush tv, and dinner were spectacular, as always at Dunia. A special evening of song and dance ensued. It was bittersweet... We were at once sad to be moving on yet excited for what laid ahead. I think the guys were actually ready to head home after 12 nights in TZ. Greg was homesick and Craig swollen from bites. Lol. I was enthralled to be staying, as was mom. The serenade of lions and hyena lulled me to sleep once again. Serengeti is HEAVEN.

[Amylovescritters]

[Amylovescritters]